Interior/Exterior Interior and exterior modifications for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Interior/Exterior Warning re: removing and reattaching door panels

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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 09:57 PM
  #1  
efcmini's Avatar
efcmini
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I could have posted this in one of the threads about sound deadening material (like Dynamat) that people have been installing, but I didn't want it to get buried as I think what I have to say can help some of you not get the massive headache I have at the moment.

When you take off the door panels, but more importantly when you reattach them, please be careful when you are lining up the door lock button (is that the right word?). Anyway the little black thing that sticks up through the top of the door panel that let's you know whether you are locked or unlocked (does it serve any other purpose whatsover and does anybody ever use it?) I digress...

I accidentally caught it and bent it while putting my passenger door panel back on tonight. This in turn caused stress on the inner workings of the lock mechanism. I've broken at least one plastic gismo in the mechanism and who knows what else. You can only see a small portion of what is going on inside the door frame with the use of a mirror and it's pretty awkward to get to. It all could have been avoided if I had only lined the hole up with the door lock pin (is "that" the right word?). It snaps SO easily and I am hoping it is an easy fix. It seems like it will be easy if only the one part is broken, but at this point I just don't know.

Anyway, just thought I'd give you a head's up.

Ken
 
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 10:19 PM
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cdconsor
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Thanks for the tip. I was planning on installing some sound deadening material next week. Any other helpful hints?

Chuck
 
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 09:34 AM
  #3  
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efcmini
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From: California
Chuck,

I did a search before I did mine and found a really helpful post by somebody but I can't find it for you now. Sorry. It might have been on Mini2 or somewhere else, I don't know. But try https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ic=20630&6 for some photos help for starters.

The main thing to know is that there are 4 screws that hold the panel in. 3 are in plain view, but the 4th is behind the little reflector in the panel. Pry it off gently, it is in two parts. Also pry the tweeter off gently attacking it at the point where the two circles meet. No need to remove the main speaker, it comes off with the panel. Then there are three "snaps" along both of the sides and the bottom, and 6 other type of connectors along the top. Do those at the top last by lifting the panel up towards you to almost a 90 degree angle and it will pop off. Also do the install with the window rolled up so's you can get to everywhere you want to stick the stuff. Use a large flat head screwdriver to pry the panel, but tape the tip of it to protect your paint. Use a thin flat head screwdriver or similar thin pry tool on the tweeter.

Also...it seems that little plastic gismo I broke doesn't get sold on it's own. It comes as part of something else that appears to have a cost of $45+ and no doubt I won't be able to do it myself so I'll paying them for labour too.

Other than that, life is good.

Ken

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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 10:27 AM
  #4  
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cdconsor
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From: Santa Clara, CA
Ken,

Hey thanks for the advice. I hate struggling with numerous small plastic tabs scattered in unknown locations s othe head-up will surely help.

Peace out,

Chuck
 
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 07:16 PM
  #5  
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ChiliCooperMark
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From: Atlanta
Ditto...thanks, Ken, for the helpful post! :smile:
 
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 08:59 AM
  #6  
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efcmini
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All's well that ends well.

I only had to replace a tiny plastic plug type thing that the rod of the door lock sticks into. Cost: 40 cents. The parts guy said it wasn't worth him printing up a ticket for and told me to stick it in my pocket.

Job done.

Glad the advice has helped some.


Ken
 
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 09:18 AM
  #7  
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mcs22004
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From: USA
I followed these instructions precisely and had no problems. I was pretty aware of the lock button and rod.
 
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