How To What range torque wrenches to use for a 2013 R56 N18 JCW?
#1
#2
Get a set of metrics sockets and make sure you get 17mm those used for wheel bolts (protecta sockets). 1/2 dive is for the heavy stuff like wheels: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...mini/c-wheels/
The smaller drive size are great for the small jobs and fit most standard toolsets that are 3/8" drive
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...torque_wrench/
The smaller drive size are great for the small jobs and fit most standard toolsets that are 3/8" drive
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...torque_wrench/
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2013JCWMini (12-14-2018)
#3
Depends on what you are doing. For instance I just bought a new Craftsman digital torque wrench to swap my turbo, and those banjo bolts are all the way down to something like 5 ft lbs. Wheel bolts however are 111 ft lbs I believe. A 3/8 torque wrench typically doesn't go beyond 80 ft lbs and a 1/2 wrench typically doesn't go below 20. Basically, if you're serious about it, get one of each with as much range as possible. Though honestly I've never had a need for a 1/2 torque wrench outside doing flywheel bolts on my clutch, I have a rattle gun and a breaker bar for wheels and subframe bolts which does a good enough job for me.
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2013JCWMini (12-14-2018)
#4
I've got 4 torque wrenches for working on cars but really only need 3 of them. A 1/2" that is roughly 50-250. A 3/8" that is 5-75 and another small 3/8" in inch pounds that I use for smaller bolts that torque to somewhere in the 4-12 ft*lb range. Remember that torque wrenches aren't very accurate at the ends of their scales. I would wait to buy one until you've decided what you're going to work on first. If you're just doing suspension work on the mini you could get a 1/2" drive one from 25-150 and it would probably cover all your needs. If you start doing engine work you'll deal with more delicate/critical bolts and will need something smaller.
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2013JCWMini (12-14-2018)
#5
I bought two of the Harbor Freight cheap ones which after sales and coupons were almost free. The 3/8 for spark plugs, the 1/2 for lug bolts. Beyond that I don't really use them. Are these high precision instruments, no! But I seem to get the lug nuts a lot more accurate than the dealer does when messing with my wheels. Last time MINI messed with the wheels on the Countryman those lugs required a breaker bar and body weight to loosen. MF's don't know what they are doing.
If I was doing more of my own work I'd invest in some higher end tools.
If I was doing more of my own work I'd invest in some higher end tools.
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2013JCWMini (12-14-2018)
#6
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2013JCWMini (12-14-2018)
#8
One more consideration --- the 2nd gen Mini has a chain tensioner that has a 0.6Nm requirement. As mentioned above, digital wrenches are not accurate at the ends of their scale, and I've yet to find one that goes that low. Consider the twin bar style for these very small settings --- not digital but cheaper and just as accurate. If you get into playing with timing, you'll need between 10 & 50Nm capabilities. Higher for head and block work. Check out the torque requirements in the web site https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ --- the tools you need depend on what you intend to do.
Also, if you're concerned about accuracy, there are calibration labs out there that can provide a cal chart. I sent my ⅜" digital to one for repairs after it came loose trying to set a very low torque. They put it back together, offered a cal chart, and issued a warning to avoid using and storing any digital wrench at low settings.
Gotta love digital convenience, but I prefer the old twin bar style.
Also, if you're concerned about accuracy, there are calibration labs out there that can provide a cal chart. I sent my ⅜" digital to one for repairs after it came loose trying to set a very low torque. They put it back together, offered a cal chart, and issued a warning to avoid using and storing any digital wrench at low settings.
Gotta love digital convenience, but I prefer the old twin bar style.
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