Noticing tiny cracks in your inner CV boots or just had one crack and caught it early? I found it a bit frustrating having to search multiple forums and the Google machine to get all the necessary information, so here is a comprehensive write-up for the beginner at changing out inner CV boots. If there is an important bit of info missing, let me know and I will add it in.

Ok, here we go. Grab yourself a jug of pumice hand cleaner and lots of rags and beers 'cause this is gonna be messy.

Parts needed:
- inner CV boot kits (boot, grease, large & small boot clamps, snap ring)
- axle nuts

Tools needed:
- snap ring pliers
- flat blade screwdriver
- ball joint separator
- 5mm hex key
- sockets: 15mm, 18mm, 24mm and 32mm
- 15mm and 18mm wrenches
- CV joint boot clamp pliers
- Air or electric impact gun (makes things a whole lot easier)
- torque wrench capable of 20-140 ft/lbs
- brass punch & hammer or 3 arm puller
- chisel
- rags
- hand cleaner
- nitrile or latex gloves
- safety glasses

Step 1: Get car off ground. Break the wheel studs loose and get the front end up on jackstands. I like to place the stands on the rear part of the subframe just behind control arm bushings. Remove the wheels.

Step 2: Remove CV axle. To remove the CV axle, you will need to unbolt the axle nut, control arm outer ball joint and tie rod ball joint. Then, the axle can be removed from the hub and gently pulled out. Using a chisel, hammer out the indented portion of the axle nut on the axle. Use your impact gun w/ 32mm socket to remove the nut.



Remove the 15mm nut on the tie rod ball joint. Leave the nut on the threads and use the separator to pop out the ball joint. The one used in the pic worked perfectly.



Remove the 18mm nut on the control arm outer ball joint. Leave the nut on the threads and use the separator to detach the control arm. The same separator worked well for this.



Optional: I found it easier to remove the caliper, bracket and rotor so the rotor doesn't get damaged and to get a bit more room to work. It only takes a few minutes to remove anyway. Basically, unbolt the caliper pins to remove caliper, unbolt the bracket and unbolt the rotor. Set it all aside.

Using a flat blade screwdriver, pry off the larger inner CV boot clamp. Position a catch can under the area to capture grease that will spill from the joint. Gently tap the axle out from the hub. Once it is loose, move it around the spindle and carefully pull it out.






Step 3: Remove old boot & install new. Undo smaller inner CV boot clamp and slide boot back on axle to expose the tripod bearings. Clean off as much grease from the area as possible. Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring holding on the bearing assembly. Place axle in a vice and use the brass punch or 3 arm puller to remove bearing assembly. Hint: brass punch method is much easier, but don't hit the bearings! Once the assembly is off the axle, run it under soapy water to remove all the old grease. Do not use solvents as it could leave deposits which are incompatible with the grease. Let the assembly dry and recommend getting the water out of the bearings with some compressed air. Remove old boot, clean off axle and install new boot.




Using a 24mm socket, tap the bearing assembly back down the axle until the snap ring groove is exposed. Note: bearing assembly has a tapered end and a flat end. The tapered end must face down the axle. Install the snap ring.


Step 4: Reinstall CV axle. Clean out all old grease from CV axle receptacle.





Fill with new grease. Note: my inner CV boot kit came with two bags of grease. However, one is sufficient. You want just enough to lightly fill the receptacle and a little topcoat on the bearing assembly. Slide the CV axle back on and secure the boot, making sure it rests in the grooves on the receptacle. Slide the axle back into the spindle for support. Using the CV boot clamp pliers, crimp up the larger clamp and ensure there is no movement afterwards. Note: this part is a real pain. Some pliers are better than others as are some clamps. Space is also limited. Have fun. Just don't skimp on this part or you'll be doing this whole process over again. Move to the smaller clamp. Ensure this end of the boot sits in the groove on the axle. Using a flat blade screwdriver, pry up the boot where it meets the axle to let out any air pressure. Then crimp the smaller clamp.


Step 5: Reinstall all removed components. Reinstall the control arm ball joint. Center hold the stud with 5mm hex key and tighten with 18mm wrench. Torque to 41 ft/lbs. Reinstall tie rod ball joint. Center hold the stud with 5mm hex key and tighten with 15mm wrench. Torque to 38 ft/lbs. Install new axle nut. Snug it up on the hub to draw the axle in. If you removed brake hardware in step 2, then reinstall using these torque values:


bracket bolts: 81 ft/lbs
caliper pins: 22 ft/lbs
rotor to hub bolt: 20 ft/lbs


Have someone put the transmission in the highest gear and foot hard on the brake. Torque the axle nut to 134 ft/lbs. Use the chisel to indent the nut on the axle groove. Check over everything. Reinstall wheels and tighten studs to 89 ft/lbs. Lower the Mini back down and go for a test drive.

 

Good post and very useful information! Thank you
Subscribed.

 

Good job and thank you.

 

Nicely done write-up! Great photos and text, and you include the tools needed like a good write-up should.

Can you get by without an impact wrench?

 

Can you get by without an impact wrench? Yes you can. need a long breaker bar. While your buddy step on the break hard, you can break loose axle nut. However, a $39 electric impact wrench from HFT will do the trick. I did it for my r53 clutch work, so I know it works




Any advice on what CV joint boot clamp plier or pliers to get ? Thanks!

 

Seems to me if you've gone to the trouble of removing the axle, you'd be smart to replace the outer boots at the same time.....

 

Thanks for the DIY! I used it to replace a bad boot this week. I had trouble getting the lower control arm ball joint apart because my puller was just a little too big, so I ended up removing the two 13mm bolts and pulling the whole ball joint out of the steering knuckle. I also fought with the smaller clamp for an hour before I finally got it together.

I did the job by myself, loosening the axle nut before I lifted the car (with the E brake on) and without an impact wrench (I do have a pretty decent breaker bar though)

I couldn't find clamp pliers so I bought some end cutters (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Channello...-357/100049589) and filed them dull and then used them to cinch the clamps up.

 

Yes, great article, but you made it sound so simple I tried it. I just finished changing the alternator and couldn’t stand the leaking driver’s side inside axle boot. I decided to do it the easy way and just replace the axle. Oh boy, big mistake because I could not get hub out of the tranny after prying it out failed. So, I just got a boot and put that in. Everything when in, but when I put the car in gear (still on jack stands) the axle makes a terrible noise and it looks like it’s binding on something. I’ve pulled the axle out and confirmed that the c-clamp is in place. I also tried to hammer the hub back in, if I actually got it out any initially. I’m in trouble because this is my wife’s car and she’s tired of hearing me say “I’ll never do this again”. I seem to have a memory issue with that. Regardless, I’m dead in the water with no more ideas so I’ll welcome any from you guys.

Hey, looking at the Mini manual that I have "2002 - 2007 GENINFO Driveline - Overview - Mini" page 96, there is a picture that shows a "retaining spring" in the hub. Could that be what I missing?

Thanks in advance,

 

Man, that's a weird problem to me. Did you pull the axle out of the wheel hub and the transmission? or just the transmission?

I can't think of much helpful other than undo it and redo it to hopefully figure out what's binding. What year is your car? mine's an 03, and there was no spring. If yours was fine without a spring before you took it apart, I can't imagine that it would need a spring when you put it back together.

 

Question: Why did you remove, or try removing the Inner Tri-End Housing, did your replacement axle come with a new housing?

 

Looking at JT911 posting, he attached a diagram of the CV-Joint, there is a Spring that is inside of the Housing.. When I did my CV boots 2 weeks ago, I did not see any Spring inside that housing. Does anyone know how critical that spring is, I've driven the car for over 20K miles and have not had a problem, kinda answers my question, somewhat, but should I get a spring and put it in there?

I'm the 2nd owner of the car, the PO had meticulous repair records along with the Carfax stating the axles were changed by the dealer, hard for me to imagine the dealer would not put the spring back inside the housing, but who knows??????

 

Thanks guys, let me try to answer the questions and ask another.

Racingguy04 – I initially tried to get the entire axle out, which means pulling it out of the transmission. The axle came out exposing the knuckle bearings, but the hub remained. That’s when I tried to pry it out, but that failed.

Gumbedamit – Yes, my initial plan was to replace the entire axle. I’m the only owner of this 03 S and I’ve never had the driver’s side axle out, so if there was a spring in it, it’s not there now and I really don’t think it was ever there. However, I’ve discovered that these manuals are not always accurate with their information.

Today I will go over everything I've done to see what, if anything I missed. i will rotate the hub to see if it is aligned correctly. Does anyone know how close it should be to the transmission, i.e., what is the gap between the hub and the tranny? Mine is really close.

 

If I was on the Porsche forum they would award me the Dumpkauff award. As I was documenting everything that was happening I remembered the DSC light coming on and I remembered there was a DSC switch. Off went the switch and gone was the noise and binding. Wheels on and a test drive proved that nothing was ever wrong. I guess having the front axles freewheeling confused the stability control.

Thanks again for the contributions.

Now here are mine. The 32mm axle nut came off with an electric impact wrench. I separated the outer ball joint via the 2 13mm bolts rather than the 18mm on the control arm ball joint. The tie rod ball joint came out with some hammer banging on its side. I tried the punch and hammer routine to remove the bearing assembly, but found a Harbor Freight Three-Jaw Puller Set (#69105) for $20 an easier and safer way. Since I was in wife trouble, I feared asking for brake pedal help installing the axle nut, so I wedged my largest box end wrench between 2 lug nuts and the caliper. That allowed me to get the 134# torque on the axle nut.

 

Good job.
I didn't user the puller, but a hammer and chisel to take the 3-roller bearing assembly off. Of course I hit the bearing with one of my swings and all the little pin bearings came out of one of the rollers...LOL. Saturday and no place to get a axle. I'm on the ground looking for all those little pins. Good thing it was a bright sunny day, found all the pins and I was able to get the assembly back together......

 

going to tackle this job this weekend on the driver side inner cv boots. I did this on the passenger side last year with an after market cv boot and the rubber boot is showing signs of wear already. I am kicking myself for not buying the genuine mini boot. Hate to go back and do this job all over again. I looked at the outer boots, it looks solid to me , but wondering if the outer boot also fails at the same rate as the innerboots. anybody ?

 

Can anyone see the pics in the original post? They are not avail for viewing on my page. Only way I know pics should be there is b/c they are referenced in the comments...

 

nope, I can't see them, I think, because this is such and old OP that the image hosting changed and that's why we can't see them.