There is a site for open recalls and service:

http://www.miniusa.com/content/miniu...rt/recall.html


But a MINI dealership can run the VIN and under reports you can see the outstanding reports. If there is none , then you can press the dealership for goodwill out of warranty.

Guess our local dealership in not much in to a good will nature. They did give us 15% off on the pump but the price was still $955 for the pump and fuel line. Not feeling the good will there. I have seen an email to Mini giving the information about the HPFP failure, 2009 year is was produced, N14 turbocharged engine with 88000 + miles along with the last 7 characters of th Vin. Have asked them if there is is anything they can do to lessen the pain. Told them this vehicle is costing us about $2000 a year in repair bills. Rear door latching mechanism failure, thermostat failure, vacuum pump failure, pcv valve failure with resulted in having to have the walnut blasting job done, the list goes on.

Something that could be added to this:

-Instead of T30 torx heads, on N18 motors with a Continental pump 8mm bolts are used.

-My fuel line on my N18 wasn't 12mm, I think it was 14mm.

I generally stay away from dealers unless covered by a recall because how they treat you, my suggestion is find an indy shop that specializes in BMWs/Mini's and save yourself a lot. Dealers have a huge overhead and customers end up paying for it.

So I have a MCS 07 with 100,000 km. I recently got the P3091 code. MINI Canada replaced my fuel pump under the warranty.

I made the mistake of clearing the code with Scanguage and MINI would not perform the warranty unless the code is there. So when you do get codes related to fuel pump, don't clear.

Great write-up. Im having exactly this issue! Couldnt find anything online, and this thread was so buried that I discovered it through google search. Taking my mini to Vista in the am. I'll post after the issue is fixed.

How did you get Mini Canada to warranty your 9 year old pump? I heard the extended warranty is not covered in Canada.

Why the hell is the HPFP over a grand now? That is like 500% increase. wtf?

It's a business and with soooo many N18's coming off lease and service, it's an easy way for the company to make money. Waiting for someone to come up with a rebuild kit or buy a HPFP off another car with the same motor (I believe it's the Citroen)

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

Peugeot 207 *

Is the similar car, but it looks like all searches for hpfp lead back to bmw units anyway

Awesome writeup! I have been having a very rough cold start and I suspect that it's the HPFP.

Yeah, mine just went out on my 2013 MCS with about 70k miles. I saw the price in the OP, and was like, heck, I'll repair it myself. I went to the linked site, and saw it's $1k now! :mad:

Now searching if there are any recalls for my year Mini. So glad tomorrow is my last day of finals and have some time off before summer classes. I don't have that much disposable money atm. :/

Unfortunately, BMW raised prices across the board earlier this year, which quadrupled the price of the HPFP. My suggestion is to pop into the marketplace and see if you can find a used unit for the N18 for sale. Your HPFP is different from earlier N18 MINI's. Part number is here for reference and also requires this adapter here. Can also call MINI USA and see what they say. I've seen some people with an earlier N18 get lucky.

Amazing writeup. Indeed, I am not going to dealer (they told me around 1900 usd). I am pretty much disappointed with price-up, and the fact I can't use warranty (car isn't under warranty due to title and export).

Anyways, anyone knows how to make sure it's HPFP and not LPFP? Maybe some metrics from INPA or similar, or gauge attached to the line :)

My symptoms are as follows:
1. Sporadic misfires in all cylinders at cold starts. Sounds like diesel. Only after few attempts it will eventually rev to 1.5 and then come back to normal.
2. At heavy load there are random drops in power (few seconds)
3. Today even at warm engine it would rattle a lot during startup

Any ideas on diagnostics? Just to mention - dealers suck in here. They won't do anything unless it's clear what they can charge, and I had a lot of cases when I had to redo things they messed up.
Unfortunately I couldn't make my INPA work (an issue with med17_2N.ipo that I am unable to find solution for).

PS: it's a MINI Cooper S 2008 R56, 73k miles, exported with "vandalism" title. Some guru tried to fix MULF2 high module, but failed. Mulf and FRM were damaged when I received the car, but price was good enough to cover those (I've paid 2.5 grands for the car on auctions, without clear understanding of the damage). Well, I love this car :)

Monitor the fuel rail pressure, you should see very low pressure when you experience symptoms.

Well, rail will show low in both cases, either LPFP ot HPFP. Or did I misunderstand your suggestion?

The sound you hear when you open the doors is the low pressure pump activating. If you check the pressure with the ignition on the engine off, you should see around 72psi.

When the engine starts, the HPFP is mechanically driven by the engine itself so you'll see the pressures jump well above 72psi. When my HPFP was failing, I'd see the fuel rail pressures drop below 100psi and the engine would hesitate and sometimes die. When the pump is "healthy" you'll never see a dip like that.

Given the notoriously high failure rate of the HPFP, your issue sure sounds like you are in the early phases of a failure. If you want to really troubleshoot your fuel system, I highly recommend buying the Bentley service manual which has step-by-step testing procedures for the fuel delivery system. That book has saved me hundreds of dollars so it's well worth the investment.

Good luck! :thumbsup:

Just a quick update. I just picked up my car yesterday afternoon. I was at a music festival all weekend from Thursday till Monday. Luckily I was able to get service where I was at, so my service manager was able to get ahold of me or leave messages. Turned out to be a bad turbo and spark plugs. Weird, the plugs I changed out no more than a month ago, but i'm glad it's running like new again.

Thanks for your suggestions :)

So I was able to use ISTA+ and connect to my DME. It showed this error:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...a7718863c6.png

It looks that I indeed need more actual pressure on rail. However, there's no sensor on intake pressure, and as Bentley says, I need to attach mechanical gauge and monitor the intake fuel pressure. Otherwise, there's a risk that HPFP is damaged by LPFP, and I don't want it to happen again with my newly ordered HPFP (well, 690 USD). To observe proper testing procedure, you may refer to this video:


Just some note on DIY. For most of of metallic fuel lines you really need to consider taking a new one, especially if you want to apply the "book" torque on it. Explanation is simple - the torque you need to apply is estimated for NEW screw-threads. Which means, any used thread will not hold same linkage between parts, as it would do on a new one (under same torque). There's always a damage to threads after every use, and this is exactly why manufacturers always demand important bolts to be replaced after disassemble (for instance, engine head bolts).

Another point - the wrenched line is between HPFP and the rail (engine). And line with pin connector is an intake line. To remember it easily - fuel intake pressure is much lower than rail, so pins (loose connection) are only applicable for line that comes from fuel tank. Hope this helps :)

I will be doing HPFP replace anytime soon, so expect some feedback.

Just had mine replaced at dealer, they did not replace metal fuel lines. FYI only!

With the dramatic price increase on the part, this is ridiculous to replace unless you can find it used or Mini covers it.

Has anyone had any luck at all getting Mini to cover the part even if they are outside of the extended warranty terms? I have a 2010 S with only 60k miles and I need this replaced. I read somewhere that Mini fixed their HPFP with like an 85% discount, even though his VIN did not meet the extended warranty.

I am really really hoping I can get some sort of deal because I have an emissions test this month, and just bringing the car into Mini for diagnosis is $120 so if they won't cut me some deal, I'll be out another $120.

What state are you in? Check if they follow California emissions warranty and see if you fit. I believe it is covered in that case, at least worth a shot.

I am in Illinois. I have never heard of this warranty. What are the details?

Even though my HPFP wasn't actually bad, it would have been covered under this. The turbo was bad, but as it's part of the emissions system, I didn't pay for it. I believe some emissions parts are covered 10 yrs or 100k miles, or something like that.