How To How To: Replace Fuse Box SPEG on R56
#1
How To: Replace Fuse Box SPEG on R56
Anyone have experience replacing the fuze box SPEG high on a MkII mini?
I had my A/C diagnosed at the dealer and they reduced it down to this FBE (fuze box electronics). The part number they gave me (61353453738) is for the SPEG high.
If its a simple swap then no sweat. Just wondering if any reprogramming of another module is required. Any insights, details would be appreciated.
TIA,
I had my A/C diagnosed at the dealer and they reduced it down to this FBE (fuze box electronics). The part number they gave me (61353453738) is for the SPEG high.
If its a simple swap then no sweat. Just wondering if any reprogramming of another module is required. Any insights, details would be appreciated.
TIA,
#2
Decided to post my efforts to replace the FBE on my 08 Cooper. The process isn't explained in the Bentley manual - except in parts.
Keep in mind the FBE is located behind the kick panel on the passengers side. This is on MKII's, but I believe the MKI's are the same.
Here are the tools you'll need:
Keep in mind the FBE is located behind the kick panel on the passengers side. This is on MKII's, but I believe the MKI's are the same.
Here are the tools you'll need:
- 10mm socket & ratchet
- 6.5mm hex allen wrench (a 6mm hex will do in a pinch)
- Plastic clip tool
- The first step is to pull up the rubber trim along the inner door. You don't need to remove it completely, just enough to expose the edge of the plastic panel kick panel that extends back behind the front seat to the connection point for the passengers seat belt.
Once you get the kick panel out, you can replace the rubber along the metal edge to keep from getting scraped by it while you're working. - Before you can pull the kick panel off, you'll need to remove the lower seatbelt anchor bolt behind the front seat. Use a 6.5mm allen wrench. A 6mm will work if you don't have half sizes.
See the pics below of the kick panel - you'll note that all connections are using typical plastic panel clips. It will help to remove the FBE panel door to pull the kick panel away from the frame. I notice that more than half the clips just slipped out of the back of the kick panel.
If this happens, just use the plastic clip tool to pry them away from the frame - reinsert them into the back of the kick panel before re-assembly.
- With the kick panel out, you now have full access to the FBE. The next step is to remove all the connectors. I'll step through a couple, but most have a release mechanism at their center. You'll need to get either a small finger, fingernail, or small screw driver to pull the release toward the center of the connector before the connector can be lifted out of the socket. Don't force any of them. Work slowly.
- At the top of the FBE is a clear-colored connector. Release the large wire from the pinch clips, then use a screw drive to gently lift the connector off the metal post. It should lift straight out.
- At the bottom of the FBE are two black connectors. These detach differently than the rest. Start with the one closest to you, since it needs to be out of the way to get the forward one out all the way.
To remove these connectors, note they have a plastic swing arm - in a vertical position. Holding the swing arm in place is a small plastic button - which must be depressed before you can lower the swing arm. Pics below show this. Once you get the first one off, proceed in the same way to remove the second.
- At the bottom of the FBE you'll notice two 10mm hex nuts. At the top is a round boss that fits in the bracket behind the FBE.
The bracket has two screws at the top - but these don't need to be removed. Once the bottom screws are off, just tip the bottom of the FEB away from the frame and the plastic boss will drop out of the bracket.
- Here's the bracket underneath, so you can see how the FBE sits in it.
- Installation is the reverse. I'll have another posting that shows how to inspect the FBE.
#3
Once I got the FBE out I thought I might as well inspect it to see if anything obvious had failed or if the A/C relay was accessible so that I could replace it. Everything looked OK on mine and the K19 A/C relay was not accessible with the tools that I had.
As a precaution I would take a picture of the front side of the FBE so you have a record of how the fuses were installed. May not be an issue but I noticed that 4 out of 5 of the "unused" sockets (based on Bentley) had fuses in them.
The following steps are to open the FBE and inspect the electronics inside:
As a precaution I would take a picture of the front side of the FBE so you have a record of how the fuses were installed. May not be an issue but I noticed that 4 out of 5 of the "unused" sockets (based on Bentley) had fuses in them.
The following steps are to open the FBE and inspect the electronics inside:
- First step is to remove all the fuses from the front of the FBE. There is also a large black relay at the center - remove it also.
- Now remove the two phillips-head screws on the back.
- Next begin be prying the back cover off at the top (right side in photo). Use a small screw driver, but be careful not to insert it too far since there is a circuit board under the cover. The cover should lift completely off.
- Here's what you should see with the back cover off.
- Now turn the assembly over and push gently on each of the pins in the connector sockets. This will allow the board assembly to slide out the back.
- The A/C relay (K19) is located above another circuit board that has over a dozen stand-offs that are soldered connections. This is why I decided not to attempt to replace it. Someone with the right tools could accurately undo and resolder all those connections, but the hand soldering iron I have isn't up to such detailed work.
- Installation is the reverse.
#7
Decided to update this posting. After buying a replacement FBE the dealer informs me the ECU has to be reprogrammed before the new unit can be used - since it has some changes. So I can't just install it myself. OK, so I let the dealer do it. Unfortunately it didn't resolve the A/C issue - so I'm back to square one.
That and some of the programming didn't appear to take. My wife notices the remote keys don't work, there's no driver-select shifting option, and the remote engine start (without the key fob in the receiver) doesn't work either.
Take it back and it turned out all of those issues were due to a blown fuse. They also resolved the A/C issue by replacing the fan relay - go figure! So at least everythings working again. The original FBE part will go up on Ebay soon.
That and some of the programming didn't appear to take. My wife notices the remote keys don't work, there's no driver-select shifting option, and the remote engine start (without the key fob in the receiver) doesn't work either.
Take it back and it turned out all of those issues were due to a blown fuse. They also resolved the A/C issue by replacing the fan relay - go figure! So at least everythings working again. The original FBE part will go up on Ebay soon.
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#8
This is the newest part number " 61353457510 " , there was a error we fixed on the site.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/61353457510/
Thanks
__________________
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; 03-21-2017 at 01:33 PM.
#9
So if the AC fan cant click on the AC compressor wont engage yes?
I'm trying to diagnose my AC as well (here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...sor-relay.html)
#11
#12
rodpin, IIRC it was around $100. I believe they plugged the new one in and programmed it while connected to the car.
The following users liked this post:
secondhandr55 (09-06-2021)
#13
This is the newest part number " 61353457510 " , there was a error we fixed on the site.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/61353457510/
Thanks
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/61353457510/
Thanks
Just an update the newest part number is now 61353457582 , the link above will supersede to the newest part.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#14
#15
That was posted a while back , but there are diagrams here:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r56-cooper-s-hat/
I have not dug all through them, but its got to be in there.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r56-cooper-s-hat/
I have not dug all through them, but its got to be in there.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#16
Possible bad post on jbe fuse panel?
Examining passenger side fuse box for possible issues. All looks bright and shiny except post at top. Only codes are slight footwell module ( a whole list), but all the footwell functions (lights, windows, etc are working). After replacing a faulty crank shaft sensor, now car turns over, but won't start. Is the discoloration in the picture related to the problem ?
#18
#19
Thé full story....
The longer (much!) version is here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/332055-help-timing-chain-saga-continues.html. This is the last step I took. Might explain intermittent no start... had the battery checked again yesterday, and it is good under load. I also forgot to mention thé RL1 relay was pretty warm when I removed the fuse box. I am getting a new relay today and will see if that was the problem, before troubleshooting further. Only codes are listed as slight, for footwell module, and code a10a. The service advisor at mini says those will not cause no start, and it has started with them before during course of this repair. Thanks for help!!
#20
Sorry to bump an old thread, but question is related to it.
My 2010 Clubman S refused to start, brother in law diagnosed a faulty fuel pump relay in the fuse board. Unfortunately it isn't a relay that can be replaced, so they sourced a new fuse board and installed that. It's rectified the starting issue, but now a few new issues have developed, which may relate to having a fuse board from a different vehicle. The rear barn door on the left side will not open and the rear washer and wiper doesn't work. That's all I've noticed so far, the car drives fine and starts first time now.
Will I need to get Mini to program the board to my car? I've tried sending the original board off to a company for repairs, but they can't do anything with it.
I'm in the UK if it makes any difference
Attached is a picture of my old board
Edit - picture won't upload for some reason
My 2010 Clubman S refused to start, brother in law diagnosed a faulty fuel pump relay in the fuse board. Unfortunately it isn't a relay that can be replaced, so they sourced a new fuse board and installed that. It's rectified the starting issue, but now a few new issues have developed, which may relate to having a fuse board from a different vehicle. The rear barn door on the left side will not open and the rear washer and wiper doesn't work. That's all I've noticed so far, the car drives fine and starts first time now.
Will I need to get Mini to program the board to my car? I've tried sending the original board off to a company for repairs, but they can't do anything with it.
I'm in the UK if it makes any difference
Attached is a picture of my old board
Edit - picture won't upload for some reason
#22
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secondhandr55 (09-06-2021)
#24
I ended up replacing the JBE, but you have to replace it with the exact same part number, it cannot be different in any way. I put one from a different model in and the car started, but loads of stuff wouldn't work. Bought one with the exact part number and it then needed to be programmed to the car and almost everything is now working, I still have a few electrical gremlins, but the car runs now