This is a quick guide on what I did to hardwire my new Ojocam Pro dashcam to my 2013 Cooper S Coupe. I have all of the tech packages (comfort access, power mirrors, auto-dimming mirrors).

I purchase my Ojocam Pro on newegg for about $90 when it was on sale. Here is a link to the exact model I bought and use (full model: OjoCam Pro Mini 0801 Dash Camera with GPS & G-Sensor)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA4KN1ER5435

I also purchased the optional hardwire usb cable that has an inline converter (this did cost about $20, purchased directly from ojo's website)


Ojocam Pro Mini 0801 Dashcam Features:

1080p 30FPS video w/audio
4MP photo camera ability

-GPS base w/G Sensor (GPS sensor is in this mounting base)
-Motion sensor (starts recording on motion)
-G Sensor (start recording on impact, shock)
-Timed screen off features
-Timed recording off (can record 1,3,5mins after motions stops, car is off)
-Speed detection
-auto loop recording (can record over card once it is nearly filled)

-accepts microSD cards, i believe stated max is 32GB. Recommended Class 10 speeds for cards to avoid loop issues and stuttering of video.

-Mac and Windows software to show video and map of where camera is at time of video (not bad software)

-Size of a GoPro camera when mounted, even a little smaller

PRE-INSTALLATION NOTES:

Prior to this camera, I had never wired anything in my car. I had done a ton of research on ways to add the hardwired power cable. Several ideas were to pull power from my Mirror/Top Center switch console but found out the power from those wires may not be enough and more hassle than worth.

After reading up a ton on R56 installs, I ran across a fellow Coupe owner's thread on the Homelink install and used his notes to help get my install going.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...upe-s-r58.html

WHERE TO GET POWER:

I decided to go the Add-A-Circuit route. This is an adapter you buy at Autozone that lets you add power to an existing fuse. These will cost about $7. The fuse box in the Coupe is on the passenger side and down by the floor.


Per threads, Fuse F34 is the best to use if you want to have power to the device when the car turns on and no power after it goes off. This is an ATM fuse type and is a 7.5amps fuse.


MOUNTING CAMERA:

I mounted my dashcam right under my mirror base. This makes it so it is hidden behind my mirror from my vantage point and also blends w/the rest of the rain detectors and other sensors on my windshield to keep it more out of sight.



CABLES/HIDING/RUNNING:

I ended up buying the ojocam hardwire cable and then had to run additional cables to it. This cable does have a smaller inline adapter.



Per the previous thread, I used the Mirror base housing to hide the inline adapter and the cable from the camera and then ran the cables up through right under where the headliner and windshield meet. Opening the base of the mirror was probably the hardest things to find out how to do; basically just squeeze it together gently until it pops apart or slightly rotate the whole base a few degrees clockwise to get it to pop apart.

I ran the cable across the top headliner towards passenger side until I got about 2 inches from the corner. My car modding skills are still low and in turn I didn't want to remove any molding. I then optioned to run across the sun visor base to the groove there and then down the side of the inner door frame rubber molding down to the fuse box.

I ended up having to use the sun visor mirror base for my ground since I could not find any proper grounding areas by the fuse box. The sun visors attach directly to the frame of the car.



FINISHED LOOK/EXAMPLES:

Area by visor is only visible wire.


Total mod took me about an hour since I didn't want to markup anything and forgot my tools in my condo when working on it. hehe.

The hardest part was opening the mirror base and finding a ground spot. The rubber molding is a bit hard to get pulled back but seems to hid and hold the cable well.

Example Video in 720P and Audio.


Here's a shot of the software running on my mac

 

Instead of running the wire like that, I just connected my positive and negative into the harness that is inside the overhead controls. Keeps it much cleaner, too. I just didn't need a fuse for 300mA electronics, that's why i did this. Specs are pretty good for the price, by the way. How do you like the image quality?

 

Sorry, I totally skipped that you had a "coupe". Mine is a clubman.

 

It's all good we're just trying to help each other out. Yea, i wish i could have used the power in there but workaround seems to work well