OK...just finished this...thank you for the write-up.

You can mount the thing perfectly with what comes in the box Just use the clip attachment instead of the suction cup attachemnt. Step on the clip to crush it so that the curve becomes nearly flat. Once it's no longer round when you put it in the liner and attach the detector so it stays level how you want it instead of bending up and hanging all weird.

FYI...I used the mysterious hole just chilling there in the frame for grounding after shaving away the paint with the screwdriver. Ghetto..i know. That said it works perfect and looks like it came with the car.

Thanks

-Gene

 

I didn't flatten the clip. It doesn't seem to be hanging weird at all?

 

Before I flattened it the front of the detector was facing somewhat down towards the road.

 

We must have it in a different position. Mine looks like this.

 

Minidrvr,

That method worked pretty well for me too -- thanks!

 

One last photo -- this is of the hole in the left-front of the car that can be used for ground. I used a 10 x 1/2" sheet metal screw, and it worked perfectly.

 

Does it touch the rear view mirror? I put a little foot on the corner of the V1 to keep it from scratching or making noise.

 

Here is my install of the Escort.

Notice the big black switch in the toggle switch bank to turn it on/off (I had an empty spot - no sunroof) and the glued-on original remote with the warning lights and the mute button on the left.

 

Minidrvr, it does touch the rear view mirror, but I've had no sound issues from it. A thin piece of felt is a good idea, though.

 

I had an issue with the visor bracket rubbing the windshield and/or roof of the the car. I put some felt on the bracket and it fixed it. Made a weird rattle type of sound that reflected on the windshield like a big speaker. It sounded like the sound was coming from behind the dash with the reflection off the glass.

 

Thanks for the writeup. That's a very sano install and I will follow your lead when I install my detector.

I have a V1 and the new Passport 9500i with GPS. I've had a V1 forever and am very surprised that I actually prefer the 9500i. Many fewer false alarms and you can "lock out" known false alerts to make your commute silent except for a real radar threat. I think the price is about the same for the V1 and 9500i.

Rob

 

I was wondering if anyone knows how to remove the stereo on a r56. I am trying to install a parrot bluetooth system on it and i am having trouble finding how to remove the radio. If anyone can help I would really appreciate it.

 

That GPS features sound really nice. I'm not sure I can live without the directional arrows though. Just too use to having them for the last 10 years.

 

I thought the same thing about the arrows but you get so few false alarms that you don't really need the arrows.

Rob

 

Not really sure I see why not having false alarms lets me know where to expect a bogey. I find for my day to day driving the detector really doesn't matter because I don't drive more than 5 over the limit, if not at the limit. Many times just not keeping up with traffic. However when I take trips, I don't think the gps feature would help much as most of the time I take new roads I've never been on. It really is a nice feature if you use it in the same locations all the time.

 

Even without using the gps lockout feature you get 80% fewer false alarms. Two of my vehicles have a V1 and my primary commuter car has a 9500i so I still use both on a weekly basis. In a previous life I flew the F-15 so I'm familiar with RF bogey detection but I still prefer the quieter 9500i. When it goes off you know it's serious. Sorry about the off-topic discussion everyone, I'll end my part in this debate.

Rob

 

I agree that when the 9500i goes off, you pay attention. As for real threats, it has given me ample warning for 3 real saves so far, two Ka and one X. Did you get the ramp-up signal update (search about this on radardetector.net)? Though not as cool as directional arrows, the excellent signal ramp-up gives me some idea if the source is getting closer or further.

My 9500i is visor clipped and velcroed (for extra stability) to the headliner to the left of my rearview mirror. As for hardwiring mine, I just tucked the cord (12ft extension RJ-11 phone cord) into the headliner, ran it to the passenger side A pillar, ran it down behind the inside edge of the door weatherstrip, and then down to the footwell connecting it to the Smartcord hardwired with an Add-A-Circuit to the fusebox. If I had hardwired it above the rearview mirror, I would have had to run my Smartcord wiring up there anyway since I have my Smartcord controls below by my handbrake console. Also, no need to splice any wires with the Add-A-Circuit in the fusebox.

 

Rob I wasn't trying to debate with you on which one is better. Thanks for the review of it.

 

Minidriver,

No problem on the non-debate, I just realized we were posting a lot of stuff about the two detectors that didn't have anything to do with the install.


lacning74,

I like how you installed the detector remote, very nice.

Rob

 

ok back on topic then, i see folks going into the mirror/headliner for the power, and then another group getting the power by tapping into the fuse box. I like not having to run wires up the a-pillar so are there any disadvantages to splicing in at the top?

 

the only disadvantage I can think of is that you are getting the unit powered up prior to engine start and about 15 min after you switch the engine off - the power in the headliner is on when you unlock the doors and stays on for a while when you switch the engine off.

 

Crucial-Fiction:
For your V1 did you use Item 20305 which is the Direct-Wire Power Adapter?
Also, how did you attach the unit itself and to what? It's hard to see in your pictures.
Thanks for the info.

Angelo

 

Thanks, just finished the install tapping into the wires in the headliner, everything works.

I'm also using the visor clip to mount the V1. For those of you using the visor clip, when you don't have the v1 installed, do you leave the clip in place or remove it along with the v1? Maybe i'm not used to doing it yet but it seems a bit hard to get the clip into the headliner gap. Also the volume on/off **** is recessed behind the mirror and a bit hard to get but the whole mount is very stealth.

 

So far I haven't removed the detector. But I was thinking of just sliding it out of the clip and leaving the clip in place. I also found it a little tricky to get the clip over the edge of the headliner without damaging it. The volume **** is a little hard to reach but do-able. I may install the remote audio adapter I have or get one of these and mount it near the Nav's joystick and buttons.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Valentine-One-1-...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Yes, I did use the direct power adapter and as far as what the unit itself is attached to, I used the suction cup holder and it coupled with the angle of the windshield leads it to be facing almost dead even with the top of the rearview mirror on the drivers side (vice on the passenger side like many others have used, is all personal preference imo) all it takes is some playing with the suction cups and once it's set it's pretty much there...