How To Electrical :: Radar Detector Hardwiring (12v Line) Above the Rearview Mirror...
#401
12-31-2011, 10:05 AM
#402
01-07-2012, 10:21 PM
#404
02-12-2012, 04:55 PM
#405
03-20-2012, 06:43 AM
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lowell, MA
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I used this guide with great success on my 07 S...i was able to use it again for my '12 JCW but something strange is going on this time...
When i power the car on, my V1 turns on(yay!)...but when i open the sun roof...it reboots...anyone else have this happen? Option packages are listed in the sig.
When i power the car on, my V1 turns on(yay!)...but when i open the sun roof...it reboots...anyone else have this happen? Option packages are listed in the sig.
#406
03-20-2012, 05:11 PM
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Rockland / Westchester NY
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#407
03-26-2012, 02:03 PM
#408
03-27-2012, 09:28 AM
Actually, all the research shows that you need to mount it high to catch the most amount of scatter. If they're hitting you a center mass, you're already popped.
From the Valentine1 website:
WHERE TO MOUNT YOUR RADAR DETECTOR
Valentine One radar detectors work best when mounted high in the windshield, and toward the center between the windshield pillars. Use your choice of windshield or visor mounts.
- When properly mounted, the front antenna will look forward through the glass. It must have an unobstructed view. Don’t put it behind the parked windshield wipers, or directly behind an in-glass antenna. Don’t position it so that it "looks" into the rearview mirror.
- The rear antenna will look rearward, between passengers and out the rear glass. It, too, must have an unobstructed view.
- Detector performance is enhanced by a high mounting position. Two reasons. For radar, a longer sight line to the horizon always helps. For laser, moving away from the hood and its sun reflections helps a lot.
#409
03-27-2012, 11:02 AM
#411
10-19-2012, 07:40 PM
4th Gear
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: SE Wyoming
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I just did the install of a cobra in a 2013 R57. My suggestion.. Don't wire it in the light up in the roof. Run a wire down the side to the fuse box, like others have suggested. If you do, here are some notes.
The switches and lights come down as one piece. Close to the windshild, behind the mirror is two holes that have clips in them. Slide a screwdriver in there and the "panel" will hinge down and popout.
I thought I would be smart in pulling the metel pin out of the white block, that has the thick blue wire, and attach my hot lead to that. It doesn't fit back in the white block so don't do that. Just splice into the wire like the OP mentioned. Also do not try to ground to the antenna nut. It is made in such a way it will not grab your wire. Ther is not a nice hole for ground, so you will have to drill one, then put in a sheet-metal screw for ground. If I get a chance I will put up some pictures.
Took about two hours of fiddling with it to get it installed.
The switches and lights come down as one piece. Close to the windshild, behind the mirror is two holes that have clips in them. Slide a screwdriver in there and the "panel" will hinge down and popout.
I thought I would be smart in pulling the metel pin out of the white block, that has the thick blue wire, and attach my hot lead to that. It doesn't fit back in the white block so don't do that. Just splice into the wire like the OP mentioned. Also do not try to ground to the antenna nut. It is made in such a way it will not grab your wire. Ther is not a nice hole for ground, so you will have to drill one, then put in a sheet-metal screw for ground. If I get a chance I will put up some pictures.
Took about two hours of fiddling with it to get it installed.
#412
04-17-2013, 01:27 PM
Another satisfied customer of this thread, now some part of SIX YEARS after the original instructions were posted!
Just got my long-serving V1 installed, nice and clean. It's been everywhere, up till now mostly on a RAM mount on my K12RS long-distance bike, even has been back to Valentine a time or two for updates (they threw in a new case one time, thanks!). It's already paid for itself 2-3x over the years.
Anyhow...worked like a charm. My upper console "cover" just popped off with my fingertips, no tool needed. I didn't see a handy ground screw, no biggie, it was easy to drill a small hole into metal nearby and fit a self-tapping screw.
Done, looks good.
Just got my long-serving V1 installed, nice and clean. It's been everywhere, up till now mostly on a RAM mount on my K12RS long-distance bike, even has been back to Valentine a time or two for updates (they threw in a new case one time, thanks!). It's already paid for itself 2-3x over the years.
Anyhow...worked like a charm. My upper console "cover" just popped off with my fingertips, no tool needed. I didn't see a handy ground screw, no biggie, it was easy to drill a small hole into metal nearby and fit a self-tapping screw.
Done, looks good.
#413
07-30-2013, 07:34 PM
4th Gear
Join Date: Jun 2011
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#414
09-07-2013, 01:50 PM
2nd Gear
Valentine one headliner install.
Thank you for this thread. Made it very easy to do this. Finally have a free 12v port now for other electronics. It is surprisingly roomy between the headliner and the roof. Used a small, short, wood screw and a small piece of wood (1.25 x 1.25 x 5/16 in.) to secure the valentine one visor mount to the headliner.
Went with the purple with blue stripe wire for power. There is a 30-45 minute delay before V1 shuts off; which is fine since my Deville had the same delay when tapping into the 12v lighter port power wire.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/z18f4718zhdszrv/1uavB1xT9h
13 pictures and a video showing the same things as the pictures.
Oh I had the radio on and the video picked up the music so turn your speakers down.
Went with the purple with blue stripe wire for power. There is a 30-45 minute delay before V1 shuts off; which is fine since my Deville had the same delay when tapping into the 12v lighter port power wire.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/z18f4718zhdszrv/1uavB1xT9h
13 pictures and a video showing the same things as the pictures.
Oh I had the radio on and the video picked up the music so turn your speakers down.
Last edited by pepperwhiteknight; 09-11-2013 at 08:36 PM. Reason: Add link to install pictures.
#415
09-26-2013, 07:09 PM
#416
09-26-2013, 08:57 PM
2nd Gear
#417
10-01-2013, 08:11 PM
I ended up putting a remote display in a gauge pod and since then haven't had the volume up. The gauge catches my eyes as quick as the sound did. Nice work on your install though!
#418
11-03-2013, 08:37 PM
4th Gear
I just wanted to give a big thanks to the OP and everyone else who contributed to this thread.
I just finished the install this weekend of the V1.
Tapped into the power from above the rearview mirror area, and then installed the V1 directly into the headliner. So clean!
No suction cups needed and I could be wrong, but I think suction cup mounts are illegal in CA anyway. Again, I could totally be wrong about that, but I love the setup now, and what's even better is that I can flip down the sun visor when I want to conceal the device a bit from would-be thieves when parked.
Here's my setup:
Thanks again!
Love the setup!
I just finished the install this weekend of the V1.
Tapped into the power from above the rearview mirror area, and then installed the V1 directly into the headliner. So clean!
No suction cups needed and I could be wrong, but I think suction cup mounts are illegal in CA anyway. Again, I could totally be wrong about that, but I love the setup now, and what's even better is that I can flip down the sun visor when I want to conceal the device a bit from would-be thieves when parked.
Here's my setup:
Thanks again!
Love the setup!
#419
08-30-2014, 04:58 PM
OK, I did it
I was sweating bullets as I'm a newbie (this was the first time I'd lifted the center console on my new MINI)... but it was worth it.
Step by step
Remove the center console (pinch the leather boot around e-break in the center and lift; remove 3 screws from cupholder). Underneath it will look like this...
There are two electrical connectors that you’ll have to undo (one for the 3 buttons, and one for the cigarette lighter).
There are 3 screws that hold the 3 button thing in place (you see one here, there’s a matching one on the right and one towards the cigarette lighter).
TIP: When doing the screws put a TOWEL under console… that way you’ll catch the screws on the way down to oblivion.
The 3 button assembly comes in an upper and lower part which simply unclip from eachother. DON’T drill all the way through the bottom piece, it has electrical connections under the rubber layer.
Removing the ‘blank’ button is a pain… I managed to pry it off with two small screwdrivers.
Drill a hole in the back (facing the back of the car) of the inside. Dremel out a small section of the blank at the bottom (so that it will simply go over the hole that you drilled).
I cut the wire about 12 inches away from the button and spliced it back together again when all was said and done…made life a LOT easier.
Drill a hole in the top of the blank and fix the button. Put it all together.
(Again.. this button is http://www.safe-n-sound1.com/Escort%...nd%20Mute.html ).
Enjoy!
Two surprise benefits
- I was worried I’d hit the Sport or DSC buttons by mistake… but the button is ‘raised’… it really is very easy to reach and hit
- I manage to ‘tune out’ the radar detector, but it drives my wife nuts; the ‘central’ location of that button makes everyone happy.
The end result... (pretty much unnoticeable
(in case you were wondering, in the cig lighter is just one of those little LED flashlights).
I was sweating bullets as I'm a newbie (this was the first time I'd lifted the center console on my new MINI)... but it was worth it.
Step by step
Remove the center console (pinch the leather boot around e-break in the center and lift; remove 3 screws from cupholder). Underneath it will look like this...
There are two electrical connectors that you’ll have to undo (one for the 3 buttons, and one for the cigarette lighter).
There are 3 screws that hold the 3 button thing in place (you see one here, there’s a matching one on the right and one towards the cigarette lighter).
TIP: When doing the screws put a TOWEL under console… that way you’ll catch the screws on the way down to oblivion.
The 3 button assembly comes in an upper and lower part which simply unclip from eachother. DON’T drill all the way through the bottom piece, it has electrical connections under the rubber layer.
Removing the ‘blank’ button is a pain… I managed to pry it off with two small screwdrivers.
Drill a hole in the back (facing the back of the car) of the inside. Dremel out a small section of the blank at the bottom (so that it will simply go over the hole that you drilled).
I cut the wire about 12 inches away from the button and spliced it back together again when all was said and done…made life a LOT easier.
Drill a hole in the top of the blank and fix the button. Put it all together.
(Again.. this button is http://www.safe-n-sound1.com/Escort%...nd%20Mute.html ).
Enjoy!
Two surprise benefits
- I was worried I’d hit the Sport or DSC buttons by mistake… but the button is ‘raised’… it really is very easy to reach and hit
- I manage to ‘tune out’ the radar detector, but it drives my wife nuts; the ‘central’ location of that button makes everyone happy.
The end result... (pretty much unnoticeable
(in case you were wondering, in the cig lighter is just one of those little LED flashlights).
Even though I could have done it myself, I just paid Best Buy $50 to install it since I did not want to mess up my other accessories that were attached to my cigarette lighter.
#421
01-13-2015, 08:03 PM
Hi.. I was wondering if anyone can help me with some info. I am going to hard wire my radar using a mirror mount and tap power from the mirror/center button console in the headliner. I want to know how to route the remote wire from up there from behind the Side A-pillar. I am scared to touch it as it says "Airbag". Does any one know if I can route the cable behind it and what is the best way to open it?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#422
01-14-2015, 06:22 PM
Join Date: May 2008
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#424
04-27-2015, 07:38 PM
