That's what I did too. Although I ran the wire to the
left over the driver side. I installed my own fusebox
there for accessories (connected directly to the battery
using relay). it's a bit of a jumble mess with the wires
tucked in a small spot.

I don't recommend those clip on splicer things at all either.

 

I tried the splicer clip on and it didnt work, how exactly do you all run it down the side, etc?

 

Nobody?

 

When I ran the wire down the right side. I just pulled down on the headliner a bit and pushed the wire in, then pulled the the rubber by the window seal on the A frame and tucked it in. It took about 10 -15 mins to do it nicely. I also use a splicer clip, it worked perfect for me. Maybe you have to squeeze it tighter.

Scott.

 

Thanks, and I pinched the hell out of it, with my fingers, and even needle-nose pliers - no luck still :( maybe I just need to get another splicer clip and try again.

 

I now have my Cobra radar detector on my windshield above my mirror. I purchased a hardwire kit from Cobra and ran the wiring under the headliner next to the glass down the A pillar on the passenger side and then under the rubber lip down to my fuse box in the passenger foot well. I used add a circuit and folded the wire to make it thicker before I put it in the wire connector and then squezzed the heck out of it. If you lower your glovebox there is a black screw on the right side which I used for ground for both my GPS and Cobra. It has been working great.

 

Many thanks to this thread for helping figure out how to make this install happen! I've mounted my V1 above and to the left of the rear view mirror and the recently installed tint strip is light enough to have minimal impact on the the laser detection (live testing done to confirm it) and the location doesn't affect radar or laser from the rear (also tested). Because I don't want to cause any extra grief for myself (or stress on the LEO), I wanted to do a little more to hide the display so I've installed the remote display. At first, I put it up in the sunroof "well" and it worked but I just didn't like it. I decided to give the cable routing a shot and here's what I came up with.

The V1 is powered from behind the upper switch panel. I connected the remote display to the power up there and ran it to the left A pillar under the headliner, came out at the fixed point for the visor, behind the rubber trim, under the dash and then I used a long piece of flexible plastic to run it behind the trim under the dash and finally, into the center console to the left of the USB/AUX connector. I used double sided tape to put it in place as the supplied velcro allowed it to rock around when I wanted to tap the mute button. It's just a quick glance down to see what the warning so I feel safe with this location and if I'm stopped for any reason, the display is hidden behind my leg.

 

I just finished with this install on my 2009 MCS. I would report that the hole for the grounding screw is still there and I used the same wire to tap into. looks like there is plenty of room in the "attic". The only problem I encountered was when I went to button things back up, the small thin plastic piece that the overhead console snaps into came unglued from the headliner. I simply hot glued it back in place. It appears that the mirror size is still a concern as there is little to no room to move the V1 or adjust the mirror. Thanks for the pictures.

 

Just got an email today from EscortRadar and thought I'd pass along some info I had not known about.

Here are their two newest products - they both look sweet!

http://www.escortradar.com/qi45/?utm...3&v=cf734505a8

http://www.escortradar.com/redline-d...5&v=cf734505a8

 

I will most likely be hardwiring my V1 sometime this week. Reading through all these posts though, I was wondering: for all of you that have the unit up above the mirror, do you all also have the remote display? I don't have it, and am wondering if I mount mine there, will it be hard to see what I'll need to see?

 

Mine is on the passenger side, up above the mirror. I don't need a remote display and I have the volume turned all the way down. The red display is easily visible in my peripheral vision. Not to mention being near the mirror, your eyes are in that area often while driving.

 

Mine is also mounted above the mirror on the passenger side. The hoops do obscure the display somewhat. The arrows are clear, but the threat count and strength meter are partially obscured for me. The volume **** is also blocked for casual adjustments. It can be done, but not really without looking so I adjust them when I'm stopped at a light and largely leave them alone on the road. It's still easy to press the **** in for mute though.

That said, it's not really been a problem for me. The freeway traffic road sensors around here use K band radar, so I disabled my V1 on that band as well as on X. The threat noises for Ka and IR are very distinctive so I go purely by hearing the V1. When it goes off, I just glance up to see where the threat is.

For power, I ran a line down the driver side A pillar to the V1 junction box for power and remote display which is installed in the dash, accessible through the little panel you can remove when the driver side door is open. Although I don't use the remote display, it's an option if I change my mind. The power comes from the accessory socket/cig lighter. I installed a splitter beneath the socket so it looks clean up top, I don't have to worry about trying to tap a CAN-bus line for power, and the V1 turns right off with the engine instead of staying powered for 30 minutes after I'm parked.

 

While not a V1, my unit is mounted above the mirror on the driver's side. I kinda need it in my peripheral, since my stereo is often too loud to hear the audible cues.

 

We successfully hardwired my V1 this morning using the method from post #1. It is neatly tucked up above the rearview mirror, slightly to the left. It went relatively smoothly, except the little blue wire splicey thing wasn't keeping a good connection, so we cut that off, stripped the wire and just twisted it together and taped it. Good as gold now!

 

In my previous car, the V1 was as shown in post #1, and my remote display was at the far left corner of the dash, against the window almost. The idea is that the radar is high and out of sight, but the remote display is only a glance away from the view outside.

I plan on trying to get something similar going in my clubman.

 

Just to let everyone and future searchers know, My V1 is now installed thanks to this post. I clipped it to the right-end of the visor, I have the remote display running all along the edges to the left far side of the dash. I used a screw into the hole at the back -- not many spots allow ground in that area (the hex bolts also do, but had a hard time finding a tool to fit and loosen enough to put the ground wire there).

Next up, H/K Ipod drive + play!

 

Has anyone else used this wire or know what it is for that matter? The fact Mini tapped into probably tells you all you need, but I'm just curious.

It looks like it would be pretty easy to identify.

 

Several months ago, I put my V1 in using the instructions from the OP. Like many here have noted, access to the volume and on/off **** is limited/difficult. Later, I installed a remote display and it's mounted next to the speedo in the center cluster so I have no lights up high and the remote display is below the beltline so it's much more difficult to see from outside the car.

I still wanted an ability to turn off (as in killing power) to the V1 quickly and after much reasearch, I decided to go with the FES Auto "Auto Sport +". Lot's of bang for the buck with that device! I now have the Auto Sport feature and the DSC programing feature. I used the DSC button's stealth controller as it requires a slightly longer push to activate/deactivate while the sport button responds to a quick tap. Now, with a quick double tap on the DSC button, I control power to the V1. If I install another device that I'd like to have power control over, I can used the Sport button to control the power to it with a few minutes of work.

Also, the V1 now turns off when I turn the car off, not 5-30 minutes later as it did with the previous install.

I'll be happy to send a "how to" if anyone is interested in doing the same.

Craig

 

I got mine installed yesterday.

Ended up going with an add-a-circuit on the "Mirror Adjustment Switch/Seat Heating Module" as that circuit is switched on and off with the engine.

Just a note, it looks like on my 2010 Clubman S that if you don't have an option, that circuit isn't powered. I was hoping to find an unused circuit for an option my Clubman didn't have so my add-a-circuit wouldn't have to piggy-back on anything.

For instance, the I don't have the Park Distance Control (F30 in the "Hot or Not" thread, F32 on my Clubman) nor the CD changer (F12 in the "Hot or Not" thread, F14 on my Clubman) and neither of those circuits are powered regardless of the state of the car.

 

I don't have the PDC but my radar detector is powered by F30 and only turns on when the car is running....

 

Is yours a 2010?

My PDC circuit gets NO current regardless of the state of the car. On, off, fob in, fob out, engine running, engine off. No current.

 

2008....maybe it was F32 - it was one of those - I'm on vacation but will check when I get back.

 

Got mine all wired up, thanks to this thread.

 

looks great. perfect placement.

 

i tried doin this diy, but my unit doesn't power up!? i don't have a sunroof on my '10 camden mcs and i even bought a new hardwire kit because i thought my other one didnt work. can someone please help?

i have it tapped into the fattest purple wire and grounded and when i plug the v1 in it doesn't want to start up :(