How To Maintenance :: Cooper S Oil Change (with pics!)
really easy to do, I did buy a new oil drain plug http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...rain_plug.html
The bolt has an attached forever rubber grommet, safe to assume I no longer use crush washer? it would no longer crush, just sit in the grommet.
The bolt has an attached forever rubber grommet, safe to assume I no longer use crush washer? it would no longer crush, just sit in the grommet.
I am about to do my first oil change on my 2010 JCW and I have some questions for those who have done a couple oil changes:
When moving the coolant reservoir tank, do I need to remove either of the hoses connected to it or is it OK to just bend them to get the tank out of the way? My fear is that the hoses will come loose and leak...
(FYI: I have a 2010 JCW and the bolt holding the tank in place is a 10mm - the OP mentioned 8mm on his; perhaps the size changed since '07?)
I test fitted some Rhino ramps and noticed the black plastic air dams (is this what you'd call them?) will rub slightly - has anyone run into any issues with the plastic cracking when driving up the ramps? They seem flexible enough so I may just go for it, but wanted to see if anyone here has had any issues with this?
Thanks in advance!
When moving the coolant reservoir tank, do I need to remove either of the hoses connected to it or is it OK to just bend them to get the tank out of the way? My fear is that the hoses will come loose and leak...
(FYI: I have a 2010 JCW and the bolt holding the tank in place is a 10mm - the OP mentioned 8mm on his; perhaps the size changed since '07?)
I test fitted some Rhino ramps and noticed the black plastic air dams (is this what you'd call them?) will rub slightly - has anyone run into any issues with the plastic cracking when driving up the ramps? They seem flexible enough so I may just go for it, but wanted to see if anyone here has had any issues with this?
Thanks in advance!
Be careful when using the ramps.
They do want to slide when trying to drive the car onto them. Be really careful of this.
I don't use them anymore. I have a couple pieces of two by eight boards that I made ramps only four inches high that I use. They raise the front of the car high enough that reaching the drain plug is no problem at all.
I don't use them anymore. I have a couple pieces of two by eight boards that I made ramps only four inches high that I use. They raise the front of the car high enough that reaching the drain plug is no problem at all.
Well no ramps for me just a 3 ton jack and some jack stands. But I have a question of how to get the tranny fluid back in. With out pics I really didn't understand and I am about to do my oil, brakes, and tranny fluid this weekend and fix some other varios tid bits around the MINI.
oil pan drain plug = 22 lbs/ft torque 8 mm hex
oil filter cap = 18.5 lbs/ft 27mm or 1 1/16
tranny fluid is lifetime Porthos. It should say it right on the drain plug.
Not to sound like a di¢k but did either of you bother to read the first 12 pages of this thread?
oil filter cap = 18.5 lbs/ft 27mm or 1 1/16
Well no ramps for me just a 3 ton jack and some jack stands. But I have a question of how to get the tranny fluid back in. With out pics I really didn't understand and I am about to do my oil, brakes, and tranny fluid this weekend and fix some other varios tid bits around the MINI.
Not to sound like a di¢k but did either of you bother to read the first 12 pages of this thread?
I just finished changing my oil for the first time. It was super straight forward - largely due to this thread. Thanks to all who have contributed!
FYI- after just over 2300 miles the oil was very black as others have reported here. For the money it is well worth doing the change IMO.
FYI- after just over 2300 miles the oil was very black as others have reported here. For the money it is well worth doing the change IMO.
Yes I read it and yes I know it is lifetime but at the time I had an oppurtunity to get better fluid and that fell through because it was the wrong stuff. I ment to put on there how to put the fluid back in the tranny. I would like smoother shifts and the stock fluid doesn't do it. Plus nothing is lifetime. It would eventually need to be changed.
if it's like my 04' mini oil filter, one end of the filter is a larger diameter than the other so it can only go in one way.
I read the above on this forum and when i last changed my oil I tested both sides before installing
I just did the oil change and drove back home.
I checked my dipstick and there seems to be oil on the top notch (Max), maybe even a little on the metal part.
Should I be concerned?
The guy who insisted on helping me out put in 4.6 qts when I told him 4.4 qts.
I called a mini service adviser to double check, and he said between 4 and 5 qts.
I checked the dipstick again after driving 20 miles home, and it was still at the same level.
What should I do?
I checked my dipstick and there seems to be oil on the top notch (Max), maybe even a little on the metal part.
Should I be concerned?
The guy who insisted on helping me out put in 4.6 qts when I told him 4.4 qts.
I called a mini service adviser to double check, and he said between 4 and 5 qts.
I checked the dipstick again after driving 20 miles home, and it was still at the same level.
What should I do?
Great article!
Just bought a preowned clubman s and am preparing to change the oil.
Bought the NAPA/Wix filter and in addition to the expected rubber O ring was a small copper looking ring (3/4 inch). What is that for? Didn't see it in your pictures?
Thanks.
Jeff
Just bought a preowned clubman s and am preparing to change the oil.
Bought the NAPA/Wix filter and in addition to the expected rubber O ring was a small copper looking ring (3/4 inch). What is that for? Didn't see it in your pictures?
Thanks.
Jeff
Just completed my first oil change on the clubman S. Instructions were perfect - thanks!!!
A tip. I also rotated the tires at the same time.
Had the car hot. Did the drivers side (cleaned the wheels at the same time).
Did the passenger side.
Left the passenger front off.
Very easy access to the drain plug. Drained the oil. R&R the filter. Bolt back in the pan. Last tire on.
So since I like to rotate tires at the same time I change the oil (every 6-7k miles) this really makes getting at the drain plug a breeze.
Best,
Jeff
A tip. I also rotated the tires at the same time.
Had the car hot. Did the drivers side (cleaned the wheels at the same time).
Did the passenger side.
Left the passenger front off.
Very easy access to the drain plug. Drained the oil. R&R the filter. Bolt back in the pan. Last tire on.
So since I like to rotate tires at the same time I change the oil (every 6-7k miles) this really makes getting at the drain plug a breeze.
Best,
Jeff
pretty good wirte-up on how often to change the oil in your car...
http://finance.yahoo.com/news/Like-t...pf-family-home
http://finance.yahoo.com/news/Like-t...pf-family-home
So, the other day I picked up some Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-30.
The bottle says: "meets or exceeds the requirements of API SM, ILSAC GF-4, ACEA A5/B5-04"
The website goes on to say:
Why am I mentioning this here?
$3.99/qt at Checker Auto Parts until Sept. 28th
The bottle says: "meets or exceeds the requirements of API SM, ILSAC GF-4, ACEA A5/B5-04"
The website goes on to say:
- Exceeds API SN and all previous categories; ILSAC GF-5 and ACEA A5
- Exceeds API SL/CF, ACEA C3, A3/B4-04 and A3/B3-04
- Meets BMW LL-04
Why am I mentioning this here?
$3.99/qt at Checker Auto Parts until Sept. 28th


