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My fourth upgrade for the car is the PowerFlex Handling Kit for the R56. After 60k miles of slight abuse, I knew the Bushings probably needed a proper treatment. When doing research, I decided to get them because of everything they cover.
With all these bushings covered I think this is going to give me a much better feel for the road. I have never had polyurethane bushings in my car. If anything I have only experienced Monoball in some Porsche GT Cars, so I am excited to feel the difference.
Below is a picture of the box the bushings came in and my car at the moment sitting in the shop with good company.
Drew - while on the subject of brakes, the GP has the DTC programming in it, same as my car. One of the things it does is provide the eLSD. This system is very sensitive to the size (area) of the pistons in the calipers and a smaller piston area than what you have now will result in the eLSD being overly aggressive, especially in places like the Toe. MINI has 3 different ABS programs, one for each of the three different brakes they put on the cars to account for the different calipers they use. I found this out when I put the Wilwoods on my car and I burned out a set of pads in 2 sessions at the Glen. Something to think about when going to the Stop Techs.
I have a question maybe you can answer. I have a MCS that I added the JCW brakes (front and rear) to and had the dealer update the software at the same time. Then I added the GP2 brakes (front only) and corresponding master cylinder but did not do any updating of the software. The brakes are phenomenal but I did nothing to the software. My R56 has the OEM mechanical LSD, not the eLSD. Would there be any benefit to having the software updated for the addition of the GP2 brakes?
Great thread. Thanks for sharing Drew. Subscribing I've got Vorshlags on my GP2 as well. I ended up doing a little grinding so adjustments could be made. I run -2.5 up front all the time. Track and daily.
does the RPM tune change the knock sensor sensitivity? I Had heard it did but I was not sure if that was just tuner wars, it can be hard to separate the BS
I don’t touch the safety values of the ECU. There was a rumor from a guy that owned a R53
The goals to to have a reliable, progressive powerful tune that can daily driven and tracked
I have a question maybe you can answer. I have a MCS that I added the JCW brakes (front and rear) to and had the dealer update the software at the same time. Then I added the GP2 brakes (front only) and corresponding master cylinder but did not do any updating of the software. The brakes are phenomenal but I did nothing to the software. My R56 has the OEM mechanical LSD, not the eLSD. Would there be any benefit to having the software updated for the addition of the GP2 brakes?
Do you know if you have the DTC option on your car? My 2007 didn’t have DTC and I noticed no ill affects from not doing the software change when I put in the Wilwood BBK (which is similar to the JCW brakes). On my 2012 with the DTC the only real ill affect I had when I installed the Wilwoods was in the eLSD function of the DTC. The dynamic stability function seemed to be ok. If it were me with an earlier Gen II MINI with no DTC, I’d just drive it as is. If I had that car and it had DTC, I would still drive it as-is, but I might find a safe place to try to put the car into a slide (for example: a parking lot with snow on it) and see how the DTC and its dynamic stability control performs.
Also, I wonder if MINI has a GP2 upgrade for your car as the GP2 was based on the 2010 and later version of the Gen II MINIs, after they got rid of the mechanical LSD, and there wouldn’t have been a need for a GP2 software for the earlier MINIs, so the question may be academic. If that is the case then the later car version of that software might not be usable on your car. The JCW brakes came on both versions of the MINIs, so there is software for both.
Do you know if you have the DTC option on your car? My 2007 didn’t have DTC and I noticed no ill affects from not doing the software change when I put in the Wilwood BBK (which is similar to the JCW brakes). On my 2012 with the DTC the only real ill affect I had when I installed the Wilwoods was in the eLSD function of the DTC. The dynamic stability function seemed to be ok. If it were me with an earlier Gen II MINI with no DTC, I’d just drive it as is. If I had that car and it had DTC, I would still drive it as-is, but I might find a safe place to try to put the car into a slide (for example: a parking lot with snow on it) and see how the DTC and its dynamic stability control performs.
Also, I wonder if MINI has a GP2 upgrade for your car as the GP2 was based on the 2010 and later version of the Gen II MINIs, after they got rid of the mechanical LSD, and there wouldn’t have been a need for a GP2 software for the earlier MINIs, so the question may be academic. If that is the case then the later car version of that software might not be usable on your car. The JCW brakes came on both versions of the MINIs, so there is software for both.
Ultimately this is your choice...Hope this helps.
Correct, mine does not have DTC. Probably not needed or even applicable in my case. Thanks for taking the time to answer. Much appreciated.
UPGRADE #5, Forge Alloy Intercooler, and WMW Resonator Delete Pipe
For my Fifth upgrade, I have bought the Force Alloy Intercooler and WMW Resonator Delete Pipes. When looking at mods for the car related to tracking, I knew an intercooler was a must to keep those temps down. Also when researching on the forums, I see that a lot of people buy the intercooler first for power mods because of how much cooler it makes the engine run at speed than stock. For intercoolers, I was interested in the Wagner Competition but did not see a lot of people on the forums running them. For GP's specifically, I saw a lot more people running the Forge Alloy Intercoolers which made my decision more clear.
When talking to Way over the phone, from Way Motor Works, he told me to buy the WMW Resonator Delete pipe as well. In the turbo tubing, there is a semi-large resonator to make the sound restrictive but also air flow. Removing this will bring more constant air flow through the turbo making for a smoother overall experience on the motor. The part was only $59.95, so I had to get it.
Excited to see and feel the difference with these specific mods.
Also, the car is on the lift now. Ohlins are installed and some other small parts I have not released yet. The car should be done very soon.
You're going to be amazed at how different the car is going to feel on track after all this. I ran mine stock for a few track events before ever doing anything and it's been night and day.
You're going to be amazed at how different the car is going to feel on track after all this. I ran mine stock for a few track events before ever doing anything and it's been night and day.
Thank you. I am going to be very excited to try out my new set up. A lot of new parts going onto the car $$$. Going to love telling all of you how it feels after the Glen.
UPGRADE #6, Alta Rear Control Arms, and End Links..also your Mini GP2 Factory Alignment specs.
For my 6th upgrade, I opted for the rear adjustable Alta control arms and end links. I picked the Alta ones because I have always liked the brand since I started getting into Minis, this was back in high school. Back during my Junior year of HS I almost pulled the plug on a 06 GP1, what a car that would have been. This was back in 2009-2010. It would have been great to have 2 GPs now. Ended up pulling the trigger on an E46 M3 Comp pack. But back then everything I liked resulted in Alta parts. So when doing the suspension for my car, I went with the Alta Rear control arms and End links. Yes, this purchase was more of a personal like for the brand. The red goes so well with the GP too, so I had too. And if they break or I do not like them; I will just buy all new suspension from a different company, most likely Tarett Engineering.
The rear control arms and end links are going to work well together with the Ohlins. For my rear alignment, we are going to decide what we want all the numbers to be, camber, caster, toe and whatever else comes with alignments. My local Mini Dealer sent me the exact GP alignment specs. We are going to base off those and just get a bit more aggressive with it. Sadly though I will not be getting a corner balance. My shop has about another 10-15 cars he has to get ready and inspected for Watkins Glen. The quality of the Alta end links and control arms feels very solid too. Just holding them in your hand, they feel like a very solid piece of material. Supposedly though with the Alta rear control arms, it does something with the Rear Bracket for the self-leveling headlights. This is just something to know about, and I am not sure if people have run into this problem as well. I will be getting a custom made new set after my track day, no biggie.
In all, I think they are going to hold up fine through my track day and daily streetability of the car. I have always loved and known about the Alta brand, so I said F&*K it, why not give them a shot. They have been helpful in my delivery of the products, especially getting them on time in such short notice. Free overnight shipping too!!!
Below are pictures of the Rear lower and upper control arms and End links. Only pictured is one set on rear control arms; I have another lol. The Gp2 alignment specs are pictured below. Enjoy that, I know I did.
Upgraded sway bar reveal will be tonight.
Also a pic of my car overlooking Boston Harbour. Slight swirls, oh well .
Tomorrow I will post the exact alignment specs we have set up for the car.
Drew
Last edited by Drewalbiston; 08-02-2018 at 01:49 PM.
You are going to be amazed at the difference - you're doing all at once what I did over a couple of years. Enjoy it!
HA, I know I know. I will def video my hot laps come a weeks time. Excited to see what all of you think. And yes, I decided to do everything now just because. Usually, I would go step by step to feel the differences but I just procrastinated hard.
0h, as long as we are spending your money with our suggestions, I have 2 more for you:
I know the GP has no back seat, but I thought it still had the mounting spots for the rear seat belts. If it does, get a set of the rear center belt buckles and buy a set of Schroth Quick Fit harnesses. They are well worth the money. I have the Pro version which I find them to be more comfortable than the base version. Also, the Pro version will accept a 5th belt so it can be used with a real race seat if that is in the works.
The other thing to get is a ScanGage II. This will allow you to monitor Oil Temp as well as other things. The MINI turbo cooks the oil; I see temps in the range of 250 deg. However, when the aux water pump died on me, I saw temps as high as 275. Unfortunately, there is no way to know it has died without the gage as MINI buries the code for it and they just run the coolant fan more when you turn the car off. They probably did this so they wouldn’t have to cover it as a warrantee issue if it goes early and if it goes later (as it did on me), they won’t have to hear about the cost to replace the thing if someone is smart enough to figure out what went wrong. The sneaky SOBs got cought though and have had to do a recall on the pump, but not because the turbo or engine gets killed by this. It was because it can start a car fire...Sorry for the rant. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.
Last edited by Eddie07S; 08-03-2018 at 07:25 AM.
Reason: typo
UPGRADE #7, Hotchkis Sport 22mm Competition Sway Bar.
My seventh mod for the car is the 22MM Hotchkis Sport comp sway bar. I originally ordered the 22MM sway from Alta to match my rear controls and end links. The part though was on back ordered, so Way over at Way Motor Works suggested I get the H-Sport Comp bar for my car instead. $200 dollars in overnight shipping the part was here.
The Mini GP comes with a 19MM sway bar originally. I think the 22MM is going to be a huge increase in the car's capabilities. Especially in corner entry in the exit. The GP though has a really good balance of the rear in a corner. With threshold braking, you can rotate the car just as you would like. Now I believe the It'll be that much better. I am going to set it to the medium setting and see how it goes. If it feels too soft or too tight, I may change it. I know on my second day I have a 45-minute enduro so I will be experimenting with the rear from racing lines to braking points.
The H-Comp bar is a hollow bar unlike most that are solid. From what Way says this bar almost saves 8lbs pound over a solid bar. This bar weighs 5.5lbs. '
The rear percentage increase goes as for each setting...
+226% -Low
+294% - Medium
+383% - High.
For people how have rear sways, would love to hear your feedback and what you think?
Below are pictures of the rear bar with some of my other parts. The rear bar alone and my GP at NHMS earlier this year.
You know Drew, you're breaking a cardinal track rule.. You're supposed to do one mod at a time and go check it out at the track so you can really see how each change affects the car before you move on to next one ;-p Man, your car is not going to feel recognizable! lol But definitely awesome!
I'm really curious to see what you think of that sway bar. I've been going around about swapping out to that exact bar. Like you said though, the GP really is balanced well. I've been amazed at how easy it is to throttle steer. You can really throw the rear around on track very easily.
Last edited by favino1006; 08-03-2018 at 07:59 AM.
0h, as long as we are spending your money with our suggestions, I have 2 more for you:
I know the GP has no back seat, but I thought it still had the mounting spots for the rear seat belts. If it does, get a set of the rear center belt buckles and buy a set of Schroth Quick Fit harnesses. They are well worth the money. I have the Pro version which I find them to be more comfortable than the base version. Also, the Pro version will accept a 5th belt so it can be used with a real race seat if that is in the works.
The other thing to get is a ScanGage II. This will allow you to monitor Oil Temp as well as other things. The MINI turbo cooks the oil; I see temps in the range of 250 deg. However, when the aux water pump died on me, I saw temps as high as 275. Unfortunately, there is no way to know it has died without the gage as MINI buries the code for it and they just run the coolant fan more when you turn the car off. They probably did this so they wouldn’t have to cover it as a warrantee issue if it goes early and if it goes later (as it did on me), they won’t have to hear about the cost to replace the thing if someone is smart enough to figure out what went wrong. The sneaky SOBs got cought though and have had to do a recall on the pump, but not because the turbo or engine gets killed by this. It was because it can start a car fire...Sorry for the rant. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.
Thank you Eddie.
I will be getting the JCW Euro Recaros this winter. Probably going to have to get them custom stitched to say JCW, but oh well. Also, I will be getting a half cage for it this winter too. I know safety should be first. Just as you know you are talking around 7k-8k for seats, cage, and harness plus the labor too.
For the Scan gauge, I am going to order that today. Good to have it in the car. I think it is crazy these cars never came with any gauges.
watch out with the recaros, you will need 5 or 6 point harnesses, most groups ban 4 point now, I'm not sure those factory seats have a pass through. I went with sparcos on sliders and a half cage, and 6 point harnesses and it was less than 2000 for everything. The only thing I got used were the seats and harnesses, expired is fine for HPDE with every group except porsche last time I checked, expired seats are always ok with a extra brace even for wheel to wheel.
I got quotes on custom weld in half cages and they were 900-1500 installed, I went with a hard dog bolt in.
watch out with the recaros, you will need 5 or 6 point harnesses, most groups ban 4 point now, I'm not sure those factory seats have a pass through. I went with sparcos on sliders and a half cage, and 6 point harnesses and it was less than 2000 for everything. The only thing I got used were the seats and harnesses, expired is fine for HPDE with every group except porsche last time I checked, expired seats are always ok with a extra brace even for wheel to wheel.
I got quotes on custom weld in half cages and they were 900-1500 installed, I went with a hard dog bolt in.
True. I could always have them make a submarine mount for me. But for me, everything has to be new and up to date. The seats though I want to be very very nice. I wish I could just take an extra pair of my dads Porsche Gt2 carbon Buckets lol. I have just been told to spend as much as you can afford on safety. As for the cage I would have my shop weld one in or make one and that is general is just going to be expensive, but the quality is of the utmost finest. Having my Mini in the shop is a nice gesture from them.
Thank you though for the heads up. When doing my search I will deff refer back to this.
07-31-2018, 07:11 AM
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Eddie's rant..