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I am starting a thread based around my track build for my Mini GP2. I have had the car since 2013 and have put around 5-7k track miles on the car since new. Modifications I have done to the car have only been Toyo R888Rs, Hawk DTC pads, and JB+. The car has 60k miles on it now, and I have decided to start buying parts to give it a good old upgrade.
Each week I will share my parts coming in and tell you why I chose which part. Also, I will be working closely with my shop talking with them about installations and how they go bout.
I will provide pictures for each install too so everyone can get a right eye on what is going on. Finally, since my track day is August 10-12, I will provide you with an in-depth review of how the upgrades have helped with the car.
This week I will provide a background of my experience with the car on the track and how it feels. I am very excited to start this thread and look forward to sharing my experience with all of you.
WGI - one of my favorite tracks but frustrating for a driver of an S as the acceleration zones are up hill.
What groups do you run with? Maybe we can meet up for a track day there.
First mod should be a new set of light weight wheels. MINI wheels tend to be about 25# each. A good aftermarket wheel should knock 9 to 10 lbs off each corner and that is noticeably in a MINI. Get a set of Schroth Quickfit harnesses for the car.
WGI - one of my favorite tracks but frustrating for a driver of an S as the acceleration zones are up hill.
What groups do you run with? Maybe we can meet up for a track day there.
First mod should be a new set of light weight wheels. MINI wheels tend to be about 25# each. A good aftermarket wheel should knock 9 to 10 lbs off each corner and that is noticeably in a MINI. Get a set of Schroth Quickfit harnesses for the car.
Have fun!
I run in the expert group "Black" for PCA. I will get wheels next season. The modifications are starting to ship in this week so stay updated.
I have had the car since 2013. The reason for getting a GP because I wanted a track car that could sustain 10-15 track days per year without having to do any modifications too. As time has gone on I have gotten really in tune with what this car can do. The way it turns in is something I have only experienced in the highest of Porsche GT cars. The car is so precise that if anything it is very hard to miss an apex. And if you do, with the short wheelbase you can easily correct by a little brake or off throttle steering.
The brakes on this car are very very good. The bite if anything is one of the best I have felt. I go between this and 2011 Porsche GT3RS on the track (my dads and I only get 1 to 2 sessions a weekend in it...smart man on his part ) and how the car slows down is something that you just do not feel in a normal sports car. The only complaint I have is how small the rear brakes are. This means when you come into a corner at a higher speed and get on the brakes the rear end begins to become very lively. It is to the point at times where it feels out of control. Since the front brakes are so big and the rears are so small I feel as if there is not a lot of balance between the two.
As for tires, I ran the stock Kumhos when I first got it. They were really good but the tire wear was too much for me to maintain. When looking at a tire that I could drive to and from the track, the Toyo R888R was the tire for me. Since then I have been running these tires on the track and they have worked out excellently. I go through two sets a season meaning between 8-16 days on a track a year. This accumulates to around 24 heat cycles per set which I think is really good wear for a semi R-Compound. For this run at the Glen, I will have a brand new set of R888Rs (225/17/45) installed. These tires will be doing 8 sessions per day (co-driver) so it will be very interesting to see how they hold up for 24 heat cycles in a 3-day period.
For Pads, I run Hawk Hp+ sport/track pads. These have delt very good for me. They usually last the same amount of time as my tires do. The bite on these pads is even stronger than stock and the stopping power is just that much more. With this tire and brake set up, I am able to late brake and catch people very quickly. With the lower power too and front grip, I can get on the power extra early before the apex and get amazing exit speed. I do have stock rotors on the car meaning these get replaced once a year. They are cheap and easy to get. Though next year I will be upgrading to stop techs all around.
The GP has been a great car for me but I am ready to start upgrading. I will tell you each mod as they come in and the price I paid for it. I will share my experience and how the car has improved.
And I run DTC60 pads on my S. I am surprised you are able to run the HP+ without over heating them. Big, heavy rotors and big fat pads must make a big difference.
As for rear brakes, I have run into the same problem. I achieved a reasonable go fix by going to a more aggressive pad. I wasn’t aware that StopTech had a four wheel setup for the MINI.
And I run DTC60 pads on my S. I am surprised you are able to run the HP+ without over heating them. Big, heavy rotors and big fat pads must make a big difference.
As for rear brakes, I have run into the same problem. I achieved a reasonable go fix by going to a more aggressive pad. I wasn’t aware that StopTech had a four wheel setup for the MINI.
They are truly great pads overall. Part of my braking style is though is that I brake lightly and try to use a little pad as possible. With these momentum cars, you really can use not a lot of brake. Also, I am using the Hawks in the rear too but still get the problem. Hopefully, with some of my mods to the rear, this will help the car.
For any Turbo R56 I would for sure recommend a Forge Intercooler as running on track will really get the intake temps up and that will be a huge gain.
Hope we can help with your other mods
Thank you. With all the track driving I have done with the car with the stock intercooler it seems to be running fine. I have though been talking to some shops about the Wagner intercooler. I do not think I will purchase this at this time though because of my budget. All my parts have been bought and are being shipped.
I have had the car since 2013. The reason for getting a GP because I wanted a track car that could sustain 10-15 track days per year without having to do any modifications too. As time has gone on I have gotten really in tune with what this car can do. The way it turns in is something I have only experienced in the highest of Porsche GT cars. The car is so precise that if anything it is very hard to miss an apex. And if you do, with the short wheelbase you can easily correct by a little brake or off throttle steering.
The brakes on this car are very very good. The bite if anything is one of the best I have felt. I go between this and 2011 Porsche GT3RS on the track (my dads and I only get 1 to 2 sessions a weekend in it...smart man on his part ) and how the car slows down is something that you just do not feel in a normal sports car. The only complaint I have is how small the rear brakes are. This means when you come into a corner at a higher speed and get on the brakes the rear end begins to become very lively. It is to the point at times where it feels out of control. Since the front brakes are so big and the rears are so small I feel as if there is not a lot of balance between the two.
As for tires, I ran the stock Kumhos when I first got it. They were really good but the tire wear was too much for me to maintain. When looking at a tire that I could drive to and from the track, the Toyo R888R was the tire for me. Since then I have been running these tires on the track and they have worked out excellently. I go through two sets a season meaning between 8-16 days on a track a year. This accumulates to around 24 heat cycles per set which I think is really good wear for a semi R-Compound. For this run at the Glen, I will have a brand new set of R888Rs (225/17/45) installed. These tires will be doing 8 sessions per day (co-driver) so it will be very interesting to see how they hold up for 24 heat cycles in a 3-day period.
For Pads, I run Hawk Hp+ sport/track pads. These have delt very good for me. They usually last the same amount of time as my tires do. The bite on these pads is even stronger than stock and the stopping power is just that much more. With this tire and brake set up, I am able to late brake and catch people very quickly. With the lower power too and front grip, I can get on the power extra early before the apex and get amazing exit speed. I do have stock rotors on the car meaning these get replaced once a year. They are cheap and easy to get. Though next year I will be upgrading to stop techs all around.
The GP has been a great car for me but I am ready to start upgrading. I will tell you each mod as they come in and the price I paid for it. I will share my experience and how the car has improved.
Thank you,
Drew
That's what I was running ( HP+) on my 2007 MCS on stock brakes calipers on the track. Used it on the Pittsburgh International Race Complex track (formally Beaverun) many times. On the Gp2 big brake kit i had the stock pads, which are good but don't have the bite, the stock pads even on those gp2 brakes will fade a little over time. The front GP2 brakes share the 135i 6 pot pads so you have more pad options. But when it comes to the rear there are options but not as many because of a non-shared platform.
That's what I was running ( HP+) on my 2007 MCS on stock brakes calipers on the track. Used it on the Pittsburgh International Race Complex track (formally Beaverun) many times. On the Gp2 big brake kit had the stock pads, which are good but don't have the bite, the stock pads even on those gp2 brakes will fade a little over time. The front GP2 brakes share the 135i 6 pot pads so you have more pad options. But when it comes to the rear there are options but not as many because of a non-shared platform.
Exactly. The stock brake pads are really not that good for the track. I actually cracked a brand new set of pads at a two-day event up at NHMS this year. Also, I agree, it is nice that the car comes with the 135i 6 pots. Such a great caliper. I do though wish that the rear came bigger and had more options. In comparison, the rears look so so small compared to the fronts. Just not right for a car of this nature.
Yes, the new BBK for the JCW F56+ should have had that... but when i was at NAIAS for the F56 JCW concept, the MINI team had the rear dual pistons M calipers on that car.
Let hope when the GP3 comes out has the updated rears:
When we look at the R58 JCW w/ GP2 brakes the front looks huge compared to the rear, almost looks like you can do an endo in your MINI. But we found the bias did increase, it was not that extreme.
I will tell you this, driving a Cooper S, then going to the JCW 4 pot brakes and tracking them, then going to the GP2 brakes and tracking them.... the GP2 brakes are a huge improvement.
Yes, the new BBK for the JCW F56+ should have had that... but when i was at NAIAS for the F56 JCW concept, the MINI team had the rear dual pistons M calipers on that car.
Let hope when the GP3 comes out has the updated rears:
When we look at the R58 JCW w/ GP2 brakes the front looks huge compared to the rear, almost looks like you can do an endo in your MINI. But we found the bias did increase, it was not that extreme.
Thank you for that. It should be interesting to see how the car handles from the rear with the new modifications, especially under heavy braking. Hopefully, I see a vast improvement overall.
Yep, welcome. with a pad change all around you should feel a better bite and less fade, especially after a couple laps.
As well, my Stainless steel lines ECS Tuning come tomorrow. I will write a comprehensive review of the install and feel over the lines after so. It was great to see an exact stainless steel kit for the GP2 brakes.
I'm shocked you can track on those HP+ I tried it and they wore out so fast, but I am not on the big brembo setup. HP+ is my preferred autocross pad, i switch out to ST43 for HPDE, and leave the HP+ in the rear
I tried adding more rear pad but the *** gets so light on these cars when you run track tires that the rear end will get so light the back tires lock up
I'm shocked you can track on those HP+ I tried it and they wore out so fast, but I am not on the big brembo setup. HP+ is my preferred autocross pad, i switch out to ST43 for HPDE, and leave the HP+ in the rear
I tried adding more rear pad but the *** gets so light on these cars when you run track tires that the rear end will get so light the back tires lock up
I agree. It is very interesting that they last so long. My shop actually made the decisions with what pads to go for when tracking the car. I though have gotten slightly more aggressive on the brake recently with my new driving style it'll be interesting to see how long they last or do at the Glen.
I'm shocked you can track on those HP+ I tried it and they wore out so fast, but I am not on the big brembo setup. HP+ is my preferred autocross pad, i switch out to ST43 for HPDE, and leave the HP+ in the rear
I tried adding more rear pad but the *** gets so light on these cars when you run track tires that the rear end will get so light the back tires lock up
Originally Posted by Drewalbiston
I agree. It is very interesting that they last so long. My shop actually made the decisions with what pads to go for when tracking the car. I though have gotten slightly more aggressive on the brake recently with my new driving style it'll be interesting to see how long they last or do at the Glen.
It is interesting the different experiences different people have with their cars. I tried two street/track pads (Yellow Stuff and the Wilwood BP20) on the track and neither was acceptable. I added a more aggressive pad to the rear and had great success. Go figure.
As for the brakes, I did a redesign of my fronts and consulted with a friend who drove stock car and other big cars at the Glen. His advice was big rotor mass. His reasoning was that the bigger mass could handle the peak temps better and the brakes don’t get as hot. Compared to my Wilwoods, the GP brakes have a lot more mass. This may in part be why the HP+ pads work. Just thinking out loud here.
Drew - while on the subject of brakes, the GP has the DTC programming in it, same as my car. One of the things it does is provide the eLSD. This system is very sensitive to the size (area) of the pistons in the calipers and a smaller piston area than what you have now will result in the eLSD being overly aggressive, especially in places like the Toe. MINI has 3 different ABS programs, one for each of the three different brakes they put on the cars to account for the different calipers they use. I found this out when I put the Wilwoods on my car and I burned out a set of pads in 2 sessions at the Glen. Something to think about when going to the Stop Techs.
07-23-2018, 02:15 PM
) and how the car slows down is something that you just do not feel in a normal sports car. The only complaint I have is how small the rear brakes are. This means when you come into a corner at a higher speed and get on the brakes the rear end begins to become very lively. It is to the point at times where it feels out of control. Since the front brakes are so big and the rears are so small I feel as if there is not a lot of balance between the two. 
