25.5 H sport rear sway bar full hard
 

25.5 hollow H sport rear sway bar on full hard hole setting, a bit too much, and yet it still understeers.

Looks like fun!
I'll bet a tug on the e-brake would fix the understeering!

You need:
-More negative camber
-Better Tires
-MAYBE *less tire pressure.

not enough info. most likely driver. check alignment, try so toe out.. if not, more slow in fast out, turn in sooner, etc.

More Info:
stock JCW GP except for the rear sway bar
Dunlop Direzza Zll tires 215/45/17
front camber -2.1,-2.1, toe +.045
rear camber-1.6,-1.6, toe +.100

aside from zeroing the toe all around, you can add more mods or adjust driving style further?

tire pressures will help.. softer in the front (add traction) and or harder in the rear (reduce traction).. camber and caster will also help if you can adjust the front suspension geometry..


OR dial in some trail braking on your corner turn in to get more weight over the front wheels.


BUT we do need more info on where you run into the understeer


phil.

I've been thinking of getting that bar for autocross. I'm amazed that it still understeers. Does it understeer any less? Are you able to throttle steer more than before? How does it handle in a slalom?

I have this rear bar, set on full stiff for autox. you will find the car complies a great deal better than before. it'll get loose at times, but still understeer when you overdrive it

You can't change the laws of physics. There is no car on the planet that will not understeer under certain circumstances.

You have a certain level of front end grip. If you drive so fast into a corner that you completely overcome the front end grip the car will understeer. This will happen in a GP and it will also happen in a formula 1 car. No sway bar will stop this.

I suspect that is what is happening in this example, ie the driver is simply overdriving and trying to rewrite the laws of physics, which is not going to work.

The solution to this is to modify the driving style and to work on increasing the front axle grip by playing with camber, toe, tyre pressure etc.

I'm no auto-x guru but have you checked your tire sidewall markers between runs. Will help you get your tire pressure closer to correct. I assume you are on the brakes in that pic plus turning in?? I'd also suggest backing off the rear camber alittle. Rule of thumb as I hear it is half the front camber for the rear. Would put you at bout -1.0 which would help the rear end come around to turn.. A good Auto-x set up is probably not good on a road course. You need to be kinda loose to turn at an auto-x which would be way too loose on road course.. Going against all that is our local S2000 guys which are "quick" take the rear sway bar off!!!!

exactly

Yup.

Completely different car. They take the swaybar off to put power down better and provide a little compliance in the rear.

I wasn't suggesting the guy take his rear bar off was just saying that what works for 1 person and or car may not work for the next.. S2000 is RWD so a different animal altogether. I still think he has too much rear camber compared to the front. So either needs to dial in more up front or less in the rear will "help" the car turn better. Still the driver has ALOT to do with it..

As a comparison, I have -2.1 on the front with -1.1 rear
0 toe front and + .1 rear

Mine gets fair track time but not autocross,

bout same as me. I'm at -2.0 front and -1.0 rear 0 toe all around currently. Was running alittle more neg. camber ft & rr and some toe out, but haven't been running much auto x this year so decided to save my tires alittle..

you'll want a little negative toe if the car's still a little pushy for your style