What stage tune do I have? Boost gauge video
 

I’m new to Mini’s, and bought this 2007 R56 at the beginning of March. Fortunately, I work on cars as a hobby and know my way around a wrench. This car is keeping me on my toes. The P.O. told me the car had a Stage 2 “Mario Tune”. He also had a stack of receipts with things he had done to the car to set it up for autocross.

My question is, based on the boost levels in the video, do I have a Stage 2 tune?

Video in next post.

You can try asking Mario based on VIN what is installed

Is it normal for the boost to bleed off the higher in the rev range the engine gets?

I think the JCW turbo can hold 1.4 bar, the S holds lower of course

What is the full list of modifications to the car currently? In one of your other posts, you mention forged pistons and stage 3 tune… If the car was stock internals, I’d be worried about that 25psi+ overboost.

Engine was rebuilt at about 140K. Current has 204K. The PO told me he completely rebuilt the head, replaced all major bearings, and installed CP pistons. He said he had it at a stage 3 tune, and then bumped it down to a stage 2 when he sold it to me. He said it was running at about 250hp at the wheels.
Mods I’ve done:
-Larger intercooler from eBay (actually pretty decent)
-JMTC Super 42 turbo
-3” exhaust from the downpipe back. Car already had a 2 1/2” catless downpipe.
-New NGK 1422 plugs
-Catchcan on rear passenger side to intake
​​​​​​-JCW intake box with filter

- Stage 1 Snow Performance meth injection kit is in the mail. Single nozzle, will set to turn on at 5psi. This is not for power, but to help with IAT’s (ambient temps right now are 103) and the crappy gas we have in AZ.

That’s all I can think of. The clutch was replaced during the rebuild and a limited slip transmission installed as well.

I’ve owned a couple supercharged vehicles, including my current truck. None of them bled boost as the revs increased. The bypass valve regulated the set boost level, and at WOT - well, you get it all as long as your foot is in it. This little car, it goes from 20psi, and bleeds down to 15 or so as I stay in it. Is that the turbo, or the ECU controlling the boost level?


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Based on your turbo, I'd say its the turbo killing your boost. Read up on this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...bo-review.html

I still think that 25+ psi boost spike in that video isn't good for you...

Boost bleed as the RPMs increase could also be turbo related. The JMTC/Mario turbos will develop a leak at the turbine housing. Expect them to work under hard use for about a week, and then slowly start to fail. If you really push the turbo for extended periods of time, it'll fail much sooner.

The spike to 25 is what would concern me. I'm wondering if it is an anomaly with the gauge or if you are actually over-boosting to that. That could also come back to the turbo. The wastegate may not be adjusted properly. If you plan on keeping this particular turbo, you should get comfortable making wastegate adjustments because you're going to be doing it a lot.

One other thing: can you get a video of the boost gauge doing a 3rd geat pull form say 3000 to 6500? First and second gear are kind of useless because they go so quickly and you can't really get good grip, so the gauge will fluctuate. Third gear and beyond should give you a long steady run.

I saw that link after I replied :lol:

You're the man, Nik!

Wish I had read that thread a couple of months ago. Figures. It’s interesting to hear the issues right out of the box. I had to rotate the housing so the waste gate rod could clear the water cooling lines when I installed it.

The turbo will have to do for now. I originally bought the car as a daily commuter, but fell in love with how fun it was to drive and thought tracking it occasionally would be doable. The turbo is working for commuter duties, probably won’t work so well for autocrossing.

How do I regulate the boost spike? I think the gauge is accurate - Autometer mechanical.

I also have an Autometer mechanical gauge. I think the only way to get rid of that spike would be tuning, since the Mini ECU uses vacuum to close the wastegate. My guess is the gains are off, which means the ECU cannot catch the boost spike to prevent overboost.

I really appreciate your time and responses. My follow up question then - who do I contact for a good tune? It’s obvious the “Mario Tune” is a canned tune.

For a previous vehicle I installed a Whipple supercharger on, I took it to a local tuner. Tuned through HP Tuners. Can a guy familiar with tuning in general tune these cars, or should I look at someone specific to these cars?

Are these guys any good? They are local.

http://www.eurotechsaz.com

I can't speak for or against those guys, but @Lou@Prototype-R is a great guy, and an excellent tuner.

Thanks. I’ll look into that when the time comes.

Here’s a 3rd gear 3K-6K RPM pull.

https://youtu.be/YmHeVg6yXU4

Check the wastegate to make sure it seals properly, recheck all of your connections and hose clamps. Between the slow spool and the inability to hold up top, as much I hate to say it that looks similar to what I was experiencing.

That overboost, ugh... With a good 42mm turbo and a good tune, you should be holding 22-23 psi almost all the way to redline. Without meth injection, however, I wouldn't want to run more than 20 psi.

I just wanted to say, I like the way the gauge looks mounted that way!

Found this video:


I adjusted the waste gate as described above, and it’s holding boost a little bit longer. I adjusted the nut one turn. I’ll try one more turn once the engine cools down a little bit.

Interesting he talks about the cheap Chinese intercoolers loosing boost from one side to another. That’s exactly what I’m running. I’m wondering if that isn’t contributing to it.

If you don’t mind drilling a hole in your dash, that place is perfect for a 2” gauge. Watch out for the wire loom sitting behind.

Key word “good”... haha.

The meth kit is coming. I’m trying to decide how much more I want to mess around with this thing. I love the way the car drives/handles - just hate how complicated they are to work on and the inherit problems the engine has. Thinking about going the R53 route since I’m more familiar with supercharged vehicles.

Got the meth kit installed. Snow Performance stage 1. #4 nozzle (smallest in the kit) activates at 8lbs of boost. It’s just on or off. I used the stock windshield washer bottle and mounted the pump to the frame using a bracket I welded up. Seems to be working well.

I think I found the source of the boost leak. The PCV hose to catch can. I’m fairly certain my valve cover is bad, and ordered a new one. In the meantime, I used a plug and blocked off the port from the intake manifold to the catch can. The port from the pass side PCV goes to the catch can and then to atmosphere. It’s temporary until the new valve cover arrives. With this set up, boost goes down slightly, but holds throughout the RPM range. I think the drop in boost pressure has to do with the tune, and not the turbo.

I got the car running well, and then the camshaft sensor took a dump. Replaced that, and a coil stopped working. This car!!! In fairness, I don’t know when those (if ever) were replaced. Always something with this little car!


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Quality German/French engineering! :D

Here is a snippet from the following post regarding catch cans, you should check if it applies now or after you get the new valve cover to avoid future issues.
Maintaining a tuned gen ii

If you’re thinking of venting to atmosphere…don’t do it. A source of negative pressure is necessary to keep the crankcase from becoming pressurized. If the crankcase becomes pressurized the compression rings can float off the ring lands. When this happens, the rings do not seal as effectively which makes blowby even worse. In extreme cases the crankcase can become pressurized to the point that the engine develops oil leaks, oil flow back to the pan can be interrupted, and oil can even be blown out the dipstick.