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Please help. Dealership killed my Mini!

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  #1  
Old 03-12-2019, 09:57 AM
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Please help. Dealership killed my Mini!

This may go long, I’m just trying to be detailed. Any suggestions, and or help, from the community is appreciated.
2012 Mini Cooper S Convertible, 162k miles
I love my car. Best car I have ever owned. I bought it four years ago with a rebuilt title (first owner was in a front end crash at 20k miles. Body shop repaired, re-titled and sold it to me.) I have maintained it meticulously, changing oil myself on a regular schedule of 7500 miles with Mobil 1 synthetic. In the past four years I have put 142k miles on it driving all over New England for work. It is (was) my daily driver.
I had noticed a small coolant leak in my garage and it appeared to be wet around the thermostat housing. I was due for an oil change anyway I figured I’d have the dealership take a look since I’d be able to arrange for a courtesy vehicle. That was on Monday Feb 25th. Dealership performed oil change and quoted me $1500.00 for a thermostat, upper and lower house. Obviously that sounded high, so I took my car back from them and decided I’d price out the job elsewhere. The 32 point “Mini Vehicle Condition Report” listed the coolant leak as “may need future attention.”
I drove the car for the next two days, no issues, no lack of performance (I’ve never had a lack of performance that I have ever noticed.) On Thursday the 28th my engine temp light came on briefly (about three seconds) and went out. I was only 5 miles from the dealership at that point. I called the dealership to see if they had availability and they did (for both service and courtesy loaner.) I walked to an Autozone that was about three blocks away from where I had pulled in originally. Bought the appropriate coolant and topped off the overflow reservoir. It was now about a full hour that I had been parked. Car started right up, no hestitation or issues and I drove the 10 minutes to dealership without the engine temp light coming back on at all. Pulled into their drop off bay, turned off vehicle and placed it in their care.
I received a call on Friday that they had not yet been able to start the repairs but I was welcome to hold onto the courtesy vehicle through the weekend. (Side note: we received about a foot of snow on Sunday evening into Monday morning.)
I received a call early afternoon on Monday March 4th that the work was complete (the thermostat and upper/lower hoses) but the service advisor told me he had “bad news” for me. He said that my car “stalled” in the lot and had to be pushed into the bay for the work to be done. He then said they were unable to start the vehicle after the service was complete. He then sad that they could do a full diagnostic for around $300.00. He added that his tech did a compression test and each cylinder tested at 60psi. He said without further diagnostic it was likely a blown head gasket at best, but the engine might need to be replaced (he quoted $13k) because he believes “it may have breathed its last breath” - his words.
I have gone back and forth with them over the past week to no avail. When I dropped off courtesy vehicle last Wednesday and was told the service manager could not see me after several requests I asked for access to my vehicle to retrieve a few personal items. I also asked for permission to use my own scan tool to pull codes so I could assess what happened. Also, I asked for a sample of the motor oil which had just been changed 3 days prior to my having dropped it off - I watched them take that sample from pan myself.
I opened a complaint today with Mini USA customer support.
Here are my questions:
1. I don’t believe it would have been possible for my vehicle to have been drivable at 60psi across each cylinder. What are your thoughts? Again, I drove it into their welcome bay, turned it off. No visible signs of overheat. No engine temp light on. One of their service guys came while I was still there, started the car and moved it out of the welcome bay and parked it. Could any of the above have happened at 60psi on each cylinder?
2. Does anyone know how service departments and yards work? Who moves the cars around lot? Who brings them into the bays when they are being brought in for service?
3. How long would a car running at idle with worse case, no coolant, take to do damage?
4. What codes would the engine throw as it was overheating to a point that the head gasket and possibly even the head were fried? I ask because there were no codes when I pulled them. Not a misfire, not a temp code. Nothing. It’s almost as if the engine codes were reset, I still have other footwell codes, etc. but not engine codes.
5. What should I do with the oil sample? Can that be tested for temp damage?
6. Why would they still do the hose work on a vehicle that would not start at that point and had to be pushed in? Makes as much sense as doing a hip replacement on a cadaver.

I appreciate any feedback you can give and if you made it through this whole thing I thank you. My guess is someone accidentally left it running for a little while in the yard at some point while they were jockeying cars around. As I said earlier, we got 12 inches of snow on Sunday into Monday (the day they replaced the hoses.) that’s a lot of snow to plow and clear from cars. My guess is that whoever did that clearing may have started the vehicles to melt off snow and move them around to plow the lot. That is my theory. When I spoke to the deal shop last I asked that they review security footage to confirm that I drove vehicle in, that it was driven out of the bay after that, and to see who moved my vehicle during the weekend to see if it was left running for an extended time. I have not heard back on the request.

Thanks all.

David
 
  #2  
Old 03-12-2019, 10:23 AM
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I'll just comment on:
#1 - I suspect the compression test was done incorrectly. All four cylinders are even but low - they wouldn't be even if the gasket was blown. I think the test was done with the throttle closed & since it's a drive-by-wire control, the ignition needs to be on & the throttle pedal wedged with a brick. If the throttle is opened under the hood, it needs to be re-synchronized afterward or the car won't run correctly (or not even start?).
& when the car was started & moved, did it run apparently OK?
#6 - good point, at least without checking with you first.

I think I'd write a strong complaint; take the car for a long test run, with a tech if possible; get the camera results (if any) & see what you're really dealing with.
 
  #3  
Old 03-12-2019, 10:29 AM
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That is a tough situation from what you describe. Basically you don't trust them and I don't see how you are going to accomplish anything at the dealership. I'd probably take it to an indy mechanic for a diagnosis.

From the dealerships point of view, they told you that things needed to be done and you didn't take care of them, so they are obviously going to blame you. Right or wrong, I can see their side of the problem.
 
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Old 03-12-2019, 11:23 AM
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I think you may end up footing the bill. It'll come down to playing the blame game with the dealer and vice verses. The dealership may accuse you of bringing in a car with a blown head gasket. At the very least, they should refund you the $1500 service fee.
As per the probable cause of the leak, I surmise that you may have a leak in one or more of your coolant hoses. Either that or one or more hoses wasn't clamped down properly. If it were just a leaky thermostat, you shouldn't be losing that much coolant that quickly.
I'd test your oil for coolant. If present, you may have a blown head gasket. (Is the oil milky in consistency?) Also, with coolant in oil, you would see white exhaust.
Even with a blown head gasket, if they replaced the coolant, the car should start right up. It might've had some idling issues but the engine wouldn't seize (unless you've been driving in the ocean).
Depending on how you drove (with the heater full blast, drove with low RPM, etc), you can expect to drive a couple of minutes at most without coolant. (engines don't like being hot)
The only true test is to perform a leak-down-test of your hoses, radiator, and a pressure test of each of your cylinders. Also, a visual inspection of the engine block.
The only reason to replace the hose on a non-starting car would due to lack of ability to diagnosis. Before replacing anything, they should've checked the coolant level, cylinder pressure test, and overall inspection of the hoses.

If you're adamant on keeping the car, you can shop for used engines while trying to negotiate with the dealership. I'd go to the manager in person and also keep in touch with Mini USA customer support. Playing phone tag will often waste a lot of time. Remember to document anything you can. (time called, who you talked to, duration, topic at hand, probable outcomes, etc). Also, it couldn't hurt if you had a log of what happened before bringing your car to the dealership (receipts for coolant, amount coolant used, miles driven). I'd reframe from acknowledging any problems caused by you or the history of the car.

"Do not admit fault."-Mercury Insurance

Good luck. It sucks to have a fun driving car that is now a paperweight.
 
  #5  
Old 03-12-2019, 05:27 PM
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Thank you for the responses. This story just jumped into the Ripley’s believe it or Not stage...
A few hours after I spoke with Mini customer service I received a call from the service manager. It was a long, at times heated conversation that had me detailing my timeline as I laid out for you all, and her placing blame on me for not getting coolant system done on day one. She explained at detail what happens with moving cars around when the lot is cleared of snow and was very defensive. It went back and forth and I was able to convey that I’m not interested in anything more than getting my car running. I asked that she have someone check the work the tech did to see if there is anything that could have been done incorrectly to keep it from starting. She said she would have her lead tech take a look at it.
Here’s the strange part. She called an hour later and said the car is now running, and that her lead tech reports it’s running fine and that he was test driving it as we speak. WTF?! When I asked about the compression, she said there must have been an “error in the test.” I said I was concerned because they were so adamant that it needed a full head rebuild. She had them perform a new compression test and it is all to spec (160-180 per cyl)!
She added that she is “adjusting” the balance due. I am scheduled to pick up the vehicle tomorrow AM. I am still dumbfounded and have never heard of anything like this happening.
I am thrilled to be getting my car back, anxious to drive it for myself and check it out. This has been going on for almost two weeks, so glad to stop paying money on a rental car. As I digest this I am appalled that someone at a certified dealership could have “misread” a basic test like compression and then insisted it needed highly expensive repairs. How many people don’t have the time or knowledge to advocate for themselves and just get screwed? Shameful.
 

Last edited by David 2012 S Convertible; 03-12-2019 at 05:33 PM.
  #6  
Old 03-12-2019, 06:33 PM
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You're in a much better situation than you were at noon. I think it's telling that they unilaterally adjusted the charge and am curious what they aren't telling you. If you learn more, I hope you'll share it with us. Good luck with the pickup in the morning -- hope it drives well.
 
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  #7  
Old 03-12-2019, 07:55 PM
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Now this raises lots of red flags.
I'd bring my car to a different shop to make sure there isn't anything wrong with your car and this dealership should pay the bill.
You should also bring this to the attention of Mini USA. It either sounds like they tried to scam you or they didn't know what they were talking about. In either case, they took away your valuable time.

I've never heard of a dealership trying to upsell someone an engine...this is insane.
 
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  #8  
Old 03-13-2019, 07:14 AM
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David

I hope the dealer is 'adjusting' the bill to practically nothing. In fact, I think you could legitimately demand your car hire charges, caused by their incompetent diagnosis & the resultant delays. Work out the highest possible number & negotiate down from there.

Sadly it seems that some/a lot/most MINI dealers try to, & often get, a lot of expensive & largely un-necessary work as a result of their inspection.
The inspection itself is not a bad idea, but in my own case, it was $4,000-worth 5 years ago on an already 12-year-old car & they missed a couple of things I think should have been caught. I've fixed nothing on their list since!

Should I mention the $47 quote to change the back-up light bulb?
(I did get a free vacuum & wash). I haven't been back since.
 
  #9  
Old 03-13-2019, 08:03 PM
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Update

I have my car back, and surprise surprise she is running great. I had a long conversation with the service manager but could not get anything substantive that made any sense as to why her service tech recommended an engine replacement. Head tech came out and said that after a stall the cylinders can be flooded with gas which breaks down the oil in the gaskets and can give a low read. Not sure if I buy that at all. I kept going back to the fact that if that were true then an experienced tech should anticipate that and retest before recommending an expensive option. Silence.
I spent the last week and a half arguing with them about a problem that doesn’t exist. My car runs great. Started right up. I’ve driven it all day, multiple start/stops and almost 200 miles.
Still deciding who to report this to but I am going to start with MiniUSA. Amazingly, they provided the engine replacement recommendations on the receipt they provided me today. I am going to have an indy shop confirm engine is sound and go from there.
As far as cost, to add insult to injury they discounted the total bill a whopping 12%!!! The coolant work still cost $1242.00. I didn’t fight it because it was never about the money, the car needed that work and I agreed to it. I don’t think their lack of responsibility here will be a good look for them when I file a complaint.

Compression test info on receipt, engine replacement and head tear down recommendations.

My beautiful car. Running fine, just like when I brought it in!
 
  #10  
Old 03-14-2019, 04:00 AM
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Which dealer?

Cheers,

Charlie
 
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Old 03-14-2019, 04:29 AM
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The 'head tech' said that after a stall the cylinders can be flooded with gas which breaks down the oil in the gaskets and can give a low read
The 'head tech' said that?
What in heavens name is he talking about? Absolute 100% BS.

$1,200 for a t'stat / hose / pump?
$120 / day for a rental?
$20 for a car wash?

I'd avoid this one. I hope MINIUSA respond appropriately.
Find a local independent you can trust.
 
  #12  
Old 03-14-2019, 07:56 AM
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They have a word for this: Stealership.
 
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Old 03-14-2019, 04:31 PM
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This story is why, even though I am on Medicare, I still crawl under the car myself to fix it.

Some day I will have to be at the mercy of these types of thieves.
 

Last edited by Minidogger; 03-14-2019 at 04:34 PM. Reason: never mind
  #14  
Old 03-15-2019, 10:57 AM
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Interesting thread, I run a shop and we deal with a lot of Mini's. I have yet to see a blown head gasket but I have seen several compression issues due to carbon build up on the valves. I have scoped a few with cameras and seen a crazy amount of build up all over the valves. There are technical service bulletins issued by Mini on the condition. Its rare but if left improperly maintenanced, they definitely can get to that point where valves are hanging up.

As for coolant issues the main issue I have seen there is with the electronically controlled thermostat, again bulletins are out there on the issue and a new thermostat assembly and harness is the fix. Its not a quick thermostat, takes a couple hours but its not $1500 either.
 
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Old 03-21-2019, 07:23 PM
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David

Any updates?
 
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Old 03-22-2019, 04:45 AM
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Update

Thanks for asking. The car is running great. I have now put over 1500 miles since I picked it up last Tuesday, no issues at all. I have a full inspection scheduled with an independent shop on Wednesday. I’m hoping to confirm that my Mini is sound and have documentation to prove that they falsely quoted me very expensive, unnecessary repairs. I’ll decide who to file that with but will start with Mini USA.


Looking good, running good.

Originally Posted by MVPeters
David

Any updates?
 
  #17  
Old 03-22-2019, 05:02 AM
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Shady, shady dealership. Thanks for sharing your story
 
  #18  
Old 03-30-2019, 12:38 PM
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Where are you located ? I know a great shop in Norwood, MA...
 
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:22 AM
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The fact that you have a Rebuilt/Salvage titled car would have me worried, unless I did the work myself an knew exactly how it was fixed it, in my opinion, never be trusted
 
  #20  
Old 06-24-2019, 06:34 AM
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Thanks for the replies. Here are a few responses to the questions and some updates.


Love this car!
I appreciate everyone chiming in, asking questions and offering advice.

I took the car to an Audi dealership that I know someone at and had the vehicle inspected. I’ll post the report when I get a chance, but compression on all Cylinders was to spec. There were various other “issues” that were suggested by the Mini dealer - the assortment of gasket leaks, etc. that the Audi tech said were not present or were not in need of immediate attention. Bottom line, the head is sound, compression is good and they were blown away that another dealership would have suggested a head rebuild or an engine replacement.

Someone asked which Mini dealership. New Country Mini in Hartford Connecticut. F’ing crooks. I will be filling a formal complaint with Connecticut DMV, the Better Business Bureau and with Mini USA. I have the report from Audi to include, as well as the quotes New Country Mini provided for the unnecessary work.

I know I took a chance buying a rebuilt car. The company I bought it from provided before, in process and after pics. I was very fortunate. I just had wanted this vehicle for the longest time. I bought it in March 2015 for 16,000.00 and it only had 21,780 miles on it. Mini Cooper S convertible with a lot of upgrades, it was a great price and regardless the front end collision that caused the original insurance write off, she still looks like new. I’ve owned her for over four years and still enjoy every mile.

To the guy guy that suggested a shop in Mass, I’m in CT so it can’t be that far. I’ll look them up if I ever need to have it serviced again.

It is now three months since I picked up the car I was told had “breathed it last breath.” It is my every day driver and I have now put 9k miles on it, no issues, no drips or leaks, no loss of performance. I’ll hit 170k this week and she is running great. I changed the oil two weeks ago, it looked fine. Best thing is it’s finally warm here and I’ve also had the chance to drop the top and add 50+ hours to the fun-o-meter!

Thanks all. I’ll update again soon.

David
 
  #21  
Old 06-24-2019, 07:25 AM
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Way off topic: I notice your front plate. Did you spend some time down there and if so, did you ever connect with the EVSCC group? I was down there at the Navy base winter of '67 driving a TR roadster with a very active group, auto-X and etc with a couple of trips up to Sebring. They are still active.
Glad you got your main issue resolved. This forum is flush with stories like yours.
 
  #22  
Old 06-25-2019, 09:00 PM
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It sound like the tech assigned to the car was inexperienced and made a mistake. Sadly, this sort of thing happens all the time in the repair industry. It's also why I don't let other people touch my cars unless I really have to. You won't get very far with your complaint as you avoided any serious financial hardship and they did recheck it and corrected their error.

As far as what they wanted to charge you, that was a rip.off. there is no way an engine for one of these cars should cost that much.
 
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