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-   -   New shocks (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/general-mini-talk/336617-new-shocks.html)

LouCypher 03-03-2019 08:55 PM

New shocks
 
Koni or Bilstein, or does it realy mater.

njaremka 03-04-2019 03:35 AM

Yes

Subw00er 03-04-2019 07:13 AM

look at the Koni special active struts. very happy with them.

ECSTuning 03-04-2019 07:53 AM

Special Active KONI if you daily and want a really smooth ride, they are both really good. We have them both. :)

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-koni-parts/v-mini/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bilstein-parts/v-mini/

Eddie07S 03-04-2019 09:29 AM

Here is a good thread about shocks for a MINI Cooper:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...fsd-vs-b4.html

Lot of good info in it.

LouCypher 03-04-2019 05:43 PM

Went to the Koni site, apparently they wont fit on my 2012 MCS

WayMotorWorks 03-04-2019 06:09 PM

We've installed and driven all of them so it does kind of depend on what you are using the car for on what I would recommend.

I can say we have had several customers with the Bilstein not happy and switch to the Koni Yellow to be happy. Also the Bilstein cost more so we usually don't recommend them for those reasons.

If it's just a street car the Koni FSDs are great and what we use the most.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-f...5-r56-r57.html

The New version of the FSDs is called the special actives, but the gold ones above are the same as they are gold powdercoat over red LOL
https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-s...7-r58-r59.html

Then the Koni Yellows if you want more performance, adjustability, or want to lower the car
https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-y...5-r56-r57.html

ALL of these will fit your 2012 MCS and in stock.

ECSTuning 03-05-2019 05:14 AM


Originally Posted by LouCypher (Post 4454373)
Went to the Koni site, apparently they wont fit on my 2012 MCS

These are the ones that will fit your 2012 MINI Cooper S ( Hardtop)

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-koni-par...2012-cooper-s/

Eddie07S 03-05-2019 06:30 AM

+1 to what Way and ECS said.

The KONI Active (or FSDs) are great for the road (just put them in our base MINI and had them in my previous S). Not a fan of them for the track or autocross; too soft.

The thing to note about the Koni Yellows is that the adjusters are all on the top of the shock, both front and rear. In the front, this is fine. In the rear it means that you have to remove the shock to adjust them, or put a hole in the car body at top of the shock tower and get an extender to make adjustments. The yellows are aimed more at the person doing autocross and/or track with their cars

colinmini 03-05-2019 07:45 AM

Use Koni Yellows on my track, autoX and Dragon Slaying R50 Justa. They are awesome! Love the ability to dial in just the right amount of oversteer for any race condition......now, they are a little stiff for daily street use according to my wife, even with all Konis set to full soft and wheel/tires switched to all season ones. But she understands what this MINI is all about.

Heard great things about the other Koni lines for street and fast street use.

cristo 03-05-2019 07:50 AM

Which are harsher on a 2nd gen MINI,
with stock springs, Bilstein B6 (HD) or
Koni Yellows set 1/4 to 1/2 turn from full soft?

LouCypher 03-05-2019 03:48 PM


Originally Posted by ECSTuning (Post 4454449)
These are the ones that will fit your 2012 MINI Cooper S ( Hardtop)

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-koni-par...2012-cooper-s/

Pulled the trigger and went with Koni special active shocks, now I have to see if I can afford an after market anti sway bar.

Thanks for all your help guys.!

Eddie07S 03-05-2019 06:29 PM

As long as you are doing shocks, these are far better than a rear sway bar:
https://www.waymotorworks.com/irelan...5-r56-r57.html

MINIs have 0 to -0.3 camber in the front. An RSB won’t help to improve that and in hard cornering you will still scrub the front tires. MINIs are in much greater need of front camber than they are a RSB. The camber plates in general require the shocks to be removed and given that you are already changing the shocks this is the prime time to add these. You may find with the camber plates that you forgo the RSB.

LouCypher 03-05-2019 07:05 PM


Originally Posted by Eddie07S (Post 4454637)
As long as you are doing shocks, these are far better than a rear sway bar:
https://www.waymotorworks.com/irelan...5-r56-r57.html

MINIs have 0 to -0.3 camber in the front. An RSB won’t help to improve that and in hard cornering you will still scrub the front tires. MINIs are in much greater need of front camber than they are a RSB. The camber plates in general require the shocks to be removed and given that you are already changing the shocks this is the prime time to add these. You may find with the camber plates that you forgo the RSB.

Oh, I had read on the forum about adjusting the camber on the front wheels but I didn’t know that it was a more important upgrade than a RSB. Even after getting the parts on the link should I still get a RSB down the line

WayMotorWorks 03-05-2019 09:16 PM


Originally Posted by LouCypher (Post 4454652)

Oh, I had read on the forum about adjusting the camber on the front wheels but I didn’t know that it was a more important upgrade than a RSB. Even after getting the parts on the link should I still get a RSB down the line

by far the rear sway bar is the most important and cost effective suspension mod as it will really reduce the understeer.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-rear-sway-bar.html

You can also do the free camber mod in the front and remove the plastic pin in the front strut mounts and add a little more camber too.

ECSTuning 03-06-2019 05:28 AM


Originally Posted by LouCypher (Post 4454605)
Pulled the trigger and went with Koni special active shocks, now I have to see if I can afford an after market anti sway bar.

Thanks for all your help guys.!


You are welcome, thanks for the order. :) On the sway bar, there are some options, we have some combo kits, the biggest change or usually the first suspension mod is the rear sway bar. Most have free shipping and nobody right now is running a sale or anything other then we have free shipping.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2012-...sion/Sway_Bar/

Eddie07S 03-06-2019 05:58 AM

The “free” camber change gives about -0.3 deg of camber for a total of -0.3 to -0.6, depending on how the factory built your car. Even with this small change you will notice an increase in sharpness of your turn-in into a corner. With the IE camber plates youwill end up with -1.2 to -1.5 deg camber, which is about the same as Gen II GP2 came with from the factory. As I said, the camber plates are something that is easy to do now, when you have the shocks out. Not so easy to do later.

Also, be very careful when removing and re-installing the bottom bolt for the rear shocks. MINI uses a self-tapping bolt for this and if it is cross-threaded upon re-installing it, you can strip out the threads in the aluminum trailing arm. You will need to have both sides of the car jacked up so both sides of the suspension hang free, align the bottom of the shock in recess in the trailing arm and hand thread the bolt into trailing arm. This is a 14mm bolt, same as the wheel bolts. The wheel bolts are torqued to ~100 ft-lbs, which is what I used for the bottom bolt of shock.

ECSTuning 03-08-2019 10:28 AM

+1^^

LouCypher 03-08-2019 03:35 PM


Originally Posted by Eddie07S (Post 4454712)
The “free” camber change gives about -0.3 deg of camber for a total of -0.3 to -0.6, depending on how the factory built your car. Even with this small change you will notice an increase in sharpness of your turn-in into a corner. With the IE camber plates youwill end up with -1.2 to -1.5 deg camber, which is about the same as Gen II GP2 came with from the factory. As I said, the camber plates are something that is easy to do now, when you have the shocks out. Not so easy to do later.

Also, be very careful when removing and re-installing the bottom bolt for the rear shocks. MINI uses a self-tapping bolt for this and if it is cross-threaded upon re-installing it, you can strip out the threads in the aluminum trailing arm. You will need to have both sides of the car jacked up so both sides of the suspension hang free, align the bottom of the shock in recess in the trailing arm and hand thread the bolt into trailing arm. This is a 14mm bolt, same as the wheel bolts. The wheel bolts are torqued to ~100 ft-lbs, which is what I used for the bottom bolt of shock.

Thanks for all the information but I will be having a local shop do the installation for me since I lack the proper tools to do itit myself , I may just have to do the “free” camber adjustment since I may not be able to squeeze it into my budget (and what I mean by budget I mean my wife, lol).

LouCypher 03-08-2019 04:17 PM

Quick question, would it add a significate cost to install the fixed camber plates when replacing the front struts?

Eddie07S 03-09-2019 05:14 AM


Originally Posted by LouCypher (Post 4455389)
Quick question, would it add a significate cost to install the fixed camber plates when replacing the front struts?

It should be only the cost of the camber plates. There should be no additional labor cost as that all has to be disassembled and re-assembled to put the front struts in. It shouldn’t make any difference if they put the MINI strut support back in or the IE plate.

As for the local shop doing the work, if they are a shop familiar with late model BMWs they should be awar of the issue I posted about. However, it wouldn’t hurt to talk to them about my post.

LouCypher 03-10-2019 10:54 AM

Ordered the fixed camber plates last night, really looking forward to the new suspension, the car already handles great so I’m sure I will be extremely happy with the upgrade.

Eddie07S 03-10-2019 11:48 AM

:thumbsup:

LouCypher 03-10-2019 12:36 PM

How much negative camber do the rear wheels have on the 2012 mcs

Eddie07S 03-10-2019 01:26 PM

The rear camber is adjustable on the MINI. I believe the stock setting is -2.0 deg. I would leave it at the factory setting. I have those same camber plates up front which gives me a total of -1.5 deg (camberplates are -1.2 and the “freebie” is -0.3) and have my rear camber at -2.5 deg. This gives me good balance on the track without having to worry about the car wanting to swap ends at a bad time. Also, leave the rear toe at the factory setting. See what you think of the handling with the camberplates before changing the rear.


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