Drivetrain 250-300hp Mini
#1
250-300hp Mini
Recently I've been looking at buying and modifying an R56 and I was wondering what a realistic amount of horsepower I should expect to be able to safely get out of it is. I'd like it to be a daily car at the end of the day so I was wondering if 250-300hp is even realistic as I know very little about the technical stuff.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
#2
225whp to 260whp is something I do a lot of. A basic stage 2 kit with downpipe, Intercooler, colder spark plugs and tuning will get 225whp. Add a hybrid turbo for 260whp
you can email me if you more questions MarioPalza@gmail.com
Mario
mQubed Motorsport Manic & RPM Power Tuning
you can email me if you more questions MarioPalza@gmail.com
Mario
mQubed Motorsport Manic & RPM Power Tuning
__________________
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
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Burnouts82 (05-25-2020)
#3
#4
260whp is about 280wtq
Mario
mQubed Motorsport Manic & RPM Power Tuning
__________________
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
#6
yep, getting super large HP gains in a MINI is not always easy or by any means cheap.
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#7
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#8
Not so much a reliability thing as most of the time you are improving over the stock components which helps with longevity unless your aim is to beat the living daylights out of it
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#10
#11
I can't imagine. I had an 02 Altima SE with the 3.5 L VQ with 240 hp. torque steer on that car was ridiculous, and it was 3100 lbs. The mini would be crazy
#12
Even on a straight and level road, torque steer can be scary as hell! I've had occasion to change lanes because of it --- fortunately traffic was minimal, and I was out in front anyhow. An LSD helps but not that much. I've learned to stay in the RH lane as much as possible --- easier to obey traffic laws and keeps torque steer from putting me into oncoming traffic, when I ignore / forget torque steer. Fortunately, traffic is minimal in my area.
As for power, 250 - 300 WHP for a DD is easily done, without rebuilding the bottom end. Reliability is proportional to maintenance, workmanship and mod parts quality. Also, torque steering is directly proportional to torque --- torque goes up - torque steering gets more noticeable. Mine was last measured at 353 Ft-Lbs.
As for power, 250 - 300 WHP for a DD is easily done, without rebuilding the bottom end. Reliability is proportional to maintenance, workmanship and mod parts quality. Also, torque steering is directly proportional to torque --- torque goes up - torque steering gets more noticeable. Mine was last measured at 353 Ft-Lbs.
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Goldsmithy (11-26-2018)
#13
This maybe as stupid of a question as it can get, last night coming home got involved with a dodge 392 srt8 on the clear HWY, kept up with it to about 136 but my RPM was very close to 6000, I felt like I could use the 7th gear, are there any 7speed gearbox that can be mated in our gen2's? And ofcoure it kicked my rear end after that..lol
Ben
Ben
#14
#16
Recently I've been looking at buying and modifying an R56 and I was wondering what a realistic amount of horsepower I should expect to be able to safely get out of it is. I'd like it to be a daily car at the end of the day so I was wondering if 250-300hp is even realistic as I know very little about the technical stuff.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
Anything more than that and you're either looking at a considerable amount of money over your purchase price, or a bottle.
But.... A true 240-250 WHP, makes for an exceptional Mini.
#17
Welcome and go ahead and buy one! Mini’s are just a blast to drive! Hands down the most fun I have ever had behind the wheel. I have owned several different vehicles in my years (get off my lawn!) and nothing has compared to this thing. It makes me smile every time I drive it. Get one and get yourself and ECU tune from Mariokart up above. Hands down the biggest power mod for these. With a few minor mods like a bigger intercooler, catless or hi-flow downpipe and few other things and get a stage 2 tune and you will be looking at numbers that make you happy! Or upgrade the turbo as well and go stage 3. It makes a huge improvement and I think it will give you exactly what you want out of it.
#18
250 to 300 is definitely achievable on a DD. Plan on a larger intercooler, quality OCC, high flow or catless DP, intake, exhaust and a meth kit. My JCW made 263 at the wheels on a Stage 2 and makes just north of 290 on a Stage 3. Besides the traditional bolt-ons, the meth kit and OCC are why it's still running hard with over 70k miles. I recommend a larger intercooler and OCC for every vehicle I tune even if a Stage 1.
Oldbrokenwind nailed it on the head. Choose quality components and keep up on preventative maintenance. I changed oil at 5k mile intervals on the Stage 2 and shortened it to every 3k miles when I went Stage 3.
P.S. Also plan on a clutch upgrade. The stock clutch will not handle these power levels for very long.
Oldbrokenwind nailed it on the head. Choose quality components and keep up on preventative maintenance. I changed oil at 5k mile intervals on the Stage 2 and shortened it to every 3k miles when I went Stage 3.
P.S. Also plan on a clutch upgrade. The stock clutch will not handle these power levels for very long.
Last edited by Tigger2011; 11-25-2018 at 05:34 PM.
#19
#20
Even on a straight and level road, torque steer can be scary as hell! I've had occasion to change lanes because of it --- fortunately traffic was minimal, and I was out in front anyhow. An LSD helps but not that much. I've learned to stay in the RH lane as much as possible --- easier to obey traffic laws and keeps torque steer from putting me into oncoming traffic, when I ignore / forget torque steer. Fortunately, traffic is minimal in my area.
As for power, 250 - 300 WHP for a DD is easily done, without rebuilding the bottom end. Reliability is proportional to maintenance, workmanship and mod parts quality. Also, torque steering is directly proportional to torque --- torque goes up - torque steering gets more noticeable. Mine was last measured at 353 Ft-Lbs.
As for power, 250 - 300 WHP for a DD is easily done, without rebuilding the bottom end. Reliability is proportional to maintenance, workmanship and mod parts quality. Also, torque steering is directly proportional to torque --- torque goes up - torque steering gets more noticeable. Mine was last measured at 353 Ft-Lbs.
Me personally am looking to find the sweet spot and would like to know what are mod quality parts to be bolted on without rebuilding the bottom end?
#21
I've put all the basic mods on my car but what is a quality OCC? I'm looking to put on whatever bolt ons I can get and keep the stock turbo. I purposely didn't get a meth kit because I was told I didn't need it unless I was going to swap out the turbo, so does having it add HP?
In general, the addition of methanol enriches the fuel and gives it a higher octane rating, the higher the octane the less likely you are to experience unwanted detonation, and therefore the more aggressive you can be with the timing, more timing advance and more fuel (methanol) = the ability to make more power.
But... As with everything engine related, the actual amount of power has a direct correlation with "all" of your parts, so yes, the factory turbo will play a part in how much extra power can be made.
The biggest benefit to W/M on a car with just bolt-on's or minor modifications is internal engine cleaning and enriched fuel as a safety measure against accidental detonation, along with it's overall cooling effects.
Last edited by BlwnAway; 11-27-2018 at 09:34 AM.
#22
I don't know if this is an individual issue or a 2'nd gen issue or maybe even a hard top issue, but I have over 300 whp with my R52 and with the factory LSD and all PowerFlex bushings, I have minimal torque steer, the only issue I have is tire/front end float from loss of traction, but it stays pretty straight and is very controllable.
#23
By a quality oil catch can I mean one that is internally baffled and has 3/4" or 19mm connections. Examples of which would be the BSH, ECS Tuning or BMS cans. There's a few others as well that are excellent units. Our PCV system vents excess crankcase pressure from blow by into the intake tract just forward of the turbo. Unfortunately, when oil mist gets mixed in with the intake charge it can lower your effective octane from 93 to as low as 89 resulting in detonation. I recommend an OCC even for Stage 1 tunes for this reason.
As far as meth injection is concerned there are two schools of thought. The first is to use meth injection to add an additional safety factor. Turbocharged gasoline applications will always be det limited. Meaning you will reach detonation before you reach the timing limit for maximum torque. Since detonation limits are dependent on fuel, methanol with its high rating helps level the playing field a bit without resorting to extremes like E85. For moderate tunes a 0.6mm nozzle with an 80/20 meth mix will give you a nice safety margin.
The second school of thought is to use the timing increases methanol allows to make more torque and horsepower. Injecting 500cc of the same mix via a 1.0mm nozzle in conjuction with 93 octane fuel gives you an effective octane rating approaching 100. Besides its actual octane rating it further reduces detonation by lower intake charge temperature via evaporative cooling.
Some important things to keep in mind when following the second school of thought. 1) Ensure your methanol injection system includes a failsafe that will automatically cut boost if you run out of methanol or the system detects a malfunction. 2) Methanol is FUEL. Our fuel systems start to max out when injector time hits 7.2 to 7.5ms. What that boils down to is without meth you can hit 235 to ~250 whp on our stock fuel system, depending on the vehicle. Some Mini's do better than others. A lot of thing come into play and need to be data logged and adjusted for but with meth acting as a secondary fuel source you get much more head room for tuning in additional power. So when tuning for power with meth the presence of meth is critical and skimping on your meth kit is not a good idea.
As far as meth injection is concerned there are two schools of thought. The first is to use meth injection to add an additional safety factor. Turbocharged gasoline applications will always be det limited. Meaning you will reach detonation before you reach the timing limit for maximum torque. Since detonation limits are dependent on fuel, methanol with its high rating helps level the playing field a bit without resorting to extremes like E85. For moderate tunes a 0.6mm nozzle with an 80/20 meth mix will give you a nice safety margin.
The second school of thought is to use the timing increases methanol allows to make more torque and horsepower. Injecting 500cc of the same mix via a 1.0mm nozzle in conjuction with 93 octane fuel gives you an effective octane rating approaching 100. Besides its actual octane rating it further reduces detonation by lower intake charge temperature via evaporative cooling.
Some important things to keep in mind when following the second school of thought. 1) Ensure your methanol injection system includes a failsafe that will automatically cut boost if you run out of methanol or the system detects a malfunction. 2) Methanol is FUEL. Our fuel systems start to max out when injector time hits 7.2 to 7.5ms. What that boils down to is without meth you can hit 235 to ~250 whp on our stock fuel system, depending on the vehicle. Some Mini's do better than others. A lot of thing come into play and need to be data logged and adjusted for but with meth acting as a secondary fuel source you get much more head room for tuning in additional power. So when tuning for power with meth the presence of meth is critical and skimping on your meth kit is not a good idea.
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KCLARK (11-27-2018)
#24
Tigger: that is some damn good info!
So now I got another question. If one does get a meth kit added but still has the stock turbo, does this use of meth allow for a Stage 3 tune (something more aggressive to compensate for the potential octane increase) or is meth something should always be considered if one plans to go with a bigger turbo (which is required for stage 3)? I'm trying to nail down the differences with the stage tunes, specifically with the RPM tune. How many stages are there that's available?
So now I got another question. If one does get a meth kit added but still has the stock turbo, does this use of meth allow for a Stage 3 tune (something more aggressive to compensate for the potential octane increase) or is meth something should always be considered if one plans to go with a bigger turbo (which is required for stage 3)? I'm trying to nail down the differences with the stage tunes, specifically with the RPM tune. How many stages are there that's available?
#25
Tigger: that is some damn good info!
So now I got another question. If one does get a meth kit added but still has the stock turbo, does this use of meth allow for a Stage 3 tune (something more aggressive to compensate for the potential octane increase) or is meth something should always be considered if one plans to go with a bigger turbo (which is required for stage 3)? I'm trying to nail down the differences with the stage tunes, specifically with the RPM tune. How many stages are there that's available?
So now I got another question. If one does get a meth kit added but still has the stock turbo, does this use of meth allow for a Stage 3 tune (something more aggressive to compensate for the potential octane increase) or is meth something should always be considered if one plans to go with a bigger turbo (which is required for stage 3)? I'm trying to nail down the differences with the stage tunes, specifically with the RPM tune. How many stages are there that's available?
N14’s and F56 plus level tunes allow map switching when our handheld programmer is purchased and includes the stock tune plus three different performance level maps. Each can be tailored so all three performance maps are what you want them to be. Need 91 octane map cause your planning a cross country trip or let the kids drive it now and them. How about a map with higher boost and extra pops & bangs or maybe one solely for meth injection. With the handheld that's no problem.
Finally, there is the Stage X tune which is designed around forged internals with no limits. Turbo's can be Garrett, EFR or large hybrids, ported head, larger valves, cams even nitrous is an option. These are full one off custom tunes and require data logging and adjustment. Not for the faint of heart.