P for Park light won't go off even with key out
 

Went to get in the Mini and it would not start, no forwarning of a dead battery but I guess it could be. Check voltage and it was around 20 v. The red P does not go out and the steering wheel was locked. Put the battery charger on and it acts like it wants to start but turns over once and that is it. Steering wheel did unlock but now it is relocked. When I put the key in the ignition a key shows up in the tach info center. I have had this car all of week and a half and now this, whats up with this baby. When I put the key in it has lost all of the info, ie mpg, avg. speed, etc. so I figure it might be battery but still confused why lighted P will not go out. Any help will be appreciated.

It's an 07 and I'll bet it's the original battery. Need to replace. Also, check your key fob on the back. If it has a battery access, you need to
change it as well.
I bought my 07 back in Aug. 2011 and first thing I had to do was change
both car battery and key fob battery.
Battery is easy to get to, pop up bonnet and looking at car on left toward firewall and window you'll see a flip up compartment lid.
If battery is white, I'll lay you money it's the orig.

The battery is white and I'll bet you are right it is the original. I talked to the guy I bought it from and he never replaced the battery so I guess it is off to the battery store tomorrow for a new one. Does it have to be a Mini battery or just an equivalent size and amprege? I know there would be a big difference in price for it to say Mini.

QUOTE=drsimmons;3492772]It's an 07 and I'll bet it's the original battery. Need to replace. Also, check your key fob on the back. If it has a battery access, you need to
change it as well.
I bought my 07 back in Aug. 2011 and first thing I had to do was change
both car battery and key fob battery.
Battery is easy to get to, pop up bonnet and looking at car on left toward firewall and window you'll see a flip up compartment lid.
If battery is white, I'll lay you money it's the orig.[/QUOTE]

[/QUOTE]

Just go to a parts store (Advance, O'Reilly's, Auto Zone) and if possible take your old in with you (core charge). Make sure the new one has
the vent plug. You'll see it when you take the old one out.
To get old out, open hood, 2 nuts on black plastic cowl toward side of car, pull off part of
the rubber molding and merely pull and slide the cowl off. The battery is then easy to get to.
Should be able to get one for around $100-$110.

Don't forget to replace your key fob battery also. It's only like a $5 battery.
If you don't have comfort access (the little black button on the door handle) you may
not have a battery in the fob to replace. If that is the case, running the car with the
fob in the holder will charge it.
Hope this all makes sense.

Yep got the little black button. Where do you get the battery for the fobs? Do you know the battery #, didn't see it in the owner's manual. By the way after charging battery for about an hour it finally cranked so it must be battery for sure.:) Is it a common size battery or something the above mentioned retailers will have to order?

Just go to a parts store (Advance, O'Reilly's, Auto Zone) and if possible take your old in with you (core charge). Make sure the new one has
the vent plug. You'll see it when you take the old one out.
To get old out, open hood, 2 nuts on black plastic cowl toward side of car, pull off part of
the rubber molding and merely pull and slide the cowl off. The battery is then easy to get to.
Should be able to get one for around $100-$110.

Don't forget to replace your key fob battery also. It's only like a $5 battery.
If you don't have comfort access (the little black button on the door handle) you may
not have a battery in the fob to replace. If that is the case, running the car with the
fob in the holder will charge it.
Hope this all makes sense.[/QUOTE]

[/QUOTE]

Fob battery I got at a CVS Pharmacy, common CR (something). Just put something small in the indent on back of fob and it'll pop off.
I got my car battery at an O'Reilly's Auto Part (don't know if you have them where you are) but just ask at the store (they had mine in stock) and they looked it up via car brand and engine. You have the N14 1.6L DOHC engine (172hp) turbo.
The part # from O'Reilly's is SSB 47-72DE $104.99. It's a 72 month pro-rated warranty w/2yr free replacement.
By the way once the car battery is replaced you are good to go but if you don't change your fob battery and that battery is bad or going bad it won't unlock or lock your doors.
Hope this all helps.

Thanks so much it absolutely helped and I am off to the battery store later this morning. I looked online at the nearest Oreilly's and it was $130 but so was Autozone and Advance. I am checking with Battery Plus to see what they have. Once again thanks and I will let you know how all turns out with batteries.

Take your old battery with you. Pep Boys shows a group 47 battery as being a match for my 2007 MCS. It is physically too small. A group 48 was an exact match in size, post position and venting.

Thanks Jeffrey, just got back from Batteries Plus with new battery and batteries for the fob. Car battery only had 64 cca left, pretty much shot. I do have another question off that topic. I have only had this car a couple of weeks and find that the oil dipstick is absolutely the hardest one I have ever tried to read. Is there a different one available or does everyone else have no problem reading it.

It should be the same as mine which isn't too bad to read unlike the newer ones. If you have trouble seeing the oil on it try this-pull it out and wipe it off. Replace it all the way in and let it set a second. Pull it out again and lay it on a paper towel. You should be able to see where the oil is on the stick. Should be right at the upper bubble.
Be sure to check it about once a week.
Also, check it after car has been warmed up and then let it sit for 10 min. before checking. If it reads half between the 2 bubbles that'd be about a half quart low. Don't overfill it but keep it up to the upper bubble.

Craven Speed is coming out with a 2nd gen dipstick but not ready yet plus for $75.00 I'll stick with my original.

I just read that on NAM forum about the car should be warm and then rest for a few minutes. Will it not read accurately if the car is cold. I always thought that was the best time to check it before it was cranked. By the way what is the correct brand of 5w30 oil should be used and is it a synthetic blend or full synthetic. Thanks.

I'm old school also but according to Mini it should be at operating temps. I've checked mine both ways and see no difference. So, take that for what it is. Try it both ways and see for yourself.
I use Mobil 1 0/40w europeon formula LL01. It's only $6.72 quart down here and the 5/30w Castrol synthetic Mini dealers sell (down here anyway) is like $8.50 quart. You need one that denotes LL-01 which is long life full synthetic. Do not use a syn blend. If you have a Mini dealer close buy you can check their price otherwise I'd check the Mobil 1 at WalMart. Also, there is no way I'd go 15K between oil changes, I go 6K.
Be sure to use Mini filter cartridges also. They can be had at the Mini dealer or you can buy them in two packs from www.MiniMania.com.

Thanks that is just the info I needed. Unfortuanately I am about 90 miles from the closest Mini dealer so I guess one of the big box stores will have to do. I am going to Charleston, SC thursday, closest dealer to me, for a road test comparison where you can drive a Mini and another car to compare, but I definitely want to get the oil topped up before I go and then try and get an oil change while I am there. You have been very helpful and I appreciate all of your input.

No problem, glad to help. Oh, check www.waymotorworks.com . Waylan is out of Atlanta, Ga. (not sure how far you are from him) but he sells Mini items and has a shop where he works on them. Very good guy and very knowledgable. He'll answer phone calls and emails quickly. Tell him Dave Simmons sent you.
Enjoy.

I have seen their website and they do have a lot of stuff. Atlanta is about 4-4.5 hrs. from me. I am on the coast near Savannah.

It is normal for the P light to stay lite for 16min after you shut off the car and leave it, The light being lite indicates that the modules have not all shut down yet.

Thanks that is a relief, didn't think it should stay on forever. Just went and looked again and car has been idle for a couple of hours and sure enough it is out. Another question for you not to highjack this thread but what do you think is the best oil catch can and is it a really important mod that should be done? Thanks for info. By the way is your site down or is it still under construction?