Oval track Mini
#26
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
thanks for all the info, and thanks for the offer. One question I bought the front bar used from LKQ so I’m not 100% sure what it is it’s definitely bigger then the one that was on the car originally. Do you measure the bar at the bigger diameter part of the bar or the smaller end near the sway bar link? Because the bigger part of the bar measured 24 mm.
I pulled out my sports suspension bar and it says on it “23.5” (it still has the MINI model number tag on it). The fat part (the long straight section) measures 23.7-ish mm which includes the black powder coating that the factory puts on. I was a bit surprised to find, as you did, that the bar at the ends is smaller. So yes, it seems that you want to measure that straight section.
Now, I am not sure exactly what I am seeing in the photo, but it looks your bar still has the powder coating on it. If it was a JCW bar, it would have measured over 24mm. It looks like you got a sports suspension bar, which would be a good find.
As for brakes, I am surprised to hear that the rears are over-braking. On the track I have gone to a very aggressive pad in the rear to keep the rear planted and eliminate the wiggle I was getting under hard braking. OK, that said, back to you. In searching out a brake issue on my car I came across info that said that MINI changed the size of the front caliper piston. If you have the smaller piston, you could change the caliper to put in the ones with the larger piston to bias the brakes more to the front. I believe the change was that they went to the larger piston in the later Gen I MINIs. Another option would be to install a set of the Gen I JCW front brakes, which are the Gen II S brakes. Theses have a much larger rotor than what you have now. This change would require the calipers, carriers and rotors. These show up in the NAM marketplace.
Last edited by Eddie07S; 05-15-2018 at 06:00 AM. Reason: typo
#27
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Hey, if LKQ sold you a sports suspension front sway bar, then the car that it came off from had that option on it, which means that it also has the stiffer sports suspension springs. You could snag those and mix-and-match springs with the softer ones you have.
Just to add to the confusion, the base suspension that came on the the JCW was the sports suspension, which was an option for the other model MINIs. The “JCW” suspension that people refer to was a $1500 option for the JCW and is notable by the red springs that were included with it.
Just to add to the confusion, the base suspension that came on the the JCW was the sports suspension, which was an option for the other model MINIs. The “JCW” suspension that people refer to was a $1500 option for the JCW and is notable by the red springs that were included with it.
#28
Well, you got me there.
I pulled out my sports suspension bar and it says on it “23.5” (it still has the MINI model number tag on it). The fat part (the long straight section) measures 23.7-ish mm which includes the black powder coating that the factory puts on. I was a bit surprised to find, as you did, that the bar at the ends is smaller. So yes, it seems that you want to measure that straight section.
Now, I am not sure exactly what I am seeing in the photo, but it looks your bar still has the powder coating on it. If it was a JCW bar, it would have measured over 24mm. It looks like you got a sports suspension bar, which would be a good find.
As for brakes, I am surprised to hear that the rears are over-braking. On the track I have gone to a very aggressive pad in the rear to keep the rear planted and eliminate the wiggle I was getting under hard braking. OK, that said, back to you. In searching out a brake issue on my car I came across info that said that MINI changed the size of the front caliper piston. If you have the smaller piston, you could change the caliper to put in the ones with the larger piston to bias the brakes more to the front. I believe the change was that they went to the larger piston in the later Gen I MINIs. Another option would be to install a set of the Gen I JCW front brakes, which are the Gen II S brakes. Theses have a much larger rotor than what you have now. This change would require the calipers, carriers and rotors. These show up in the NAM marketplace.
I pulled out my sports suspension bar and it says on it “23.5” (it still has the MINI model number tag on it). The fat part (the long straight section) measures 23.7-ish mm which includes the black powder coating that the factory puts on. I was a bit surprised to find, as you did, that the bar at the ends is smaller. So yes, it seems that you want to measure that straight section.
Now, I am not sure exactly what I am seeing in the photo, but it looks your bar still has the powder coating on it. If it was a JCW bar, it would have measured over 24mm. It looks like you got a sports suspension bar, which would be a good find.
As for brakes, I am surprised to hear that the rears are over-braking. On the track I have gone to a very aggressive pad in the rear to keep the rear planted and eliminate the wiggle I was getting under hard braking. OK, that said, back to you. In searching out a brake issue on my car I came across info that said that MINI changed the size of the front caliper piston. If you have the smaller piston, you could change the caliper to put in the ones with the larger piston to bias the brakes more to the front. I believe the change was that they went to the larger piston in the later Gen I MINIs. Another option would be to install a set of the Gen I JCW front brakes, which are the Gen II S brakes. Theses have a much larger rotor than what you have now. This change would require the calipers, carriers and rotors. These show up in the NAM marketplace.
I think the brakes are pretty close now I don’t want to put anything bigger on the front. I’m not really hard on the brakes going into the corners. The compression of the motor helps slow it down then I’m real light on the brakes going in. If I can take just a little more brake away from the rear I think it’ll be perfect.
I have a in car go pro video of the race I’ll try and post if I can figure out how to edit out all the caution laps.
#29
Hey, if LKQ sold you a sports suspension front sway bar, then the car that it came off from had that option on it, which means that it also has the stiffer sports suspension springs. You could snag those and mix-and-match springs with the softer ones you have.
Just to add to the confusion, the base suspension that came on the the JCW was the sports suspension, which was an option for the other model MINIs. The “JCW” suspension that people refer to was a $1500 option for the JCW and is notable by the red springs that were included with it.
Just to add to the confusion, the base suspension that came on the the JCW was the sports suspension, which was an option for the other model MINIs. The “JCW” suspension that people refer to was a $1500 option for the JCW and is notable by the red springs that were included with it.
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mikec4193 (10-12-2022)
#30
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Well, it sounds like you got a “find” with that sway bar. And the springs are a good catch too. Here again is an opportunity if you find a set of the red MINI springs. They will be stiffest of the MINI spring. Just an option to keep in mind to help with making adjustments.
Brakes have been my nemesis on my current MINI because of the DTC and the eLSD, and I have had to do a lot of research on them to get them to work right. Also, the Gen II is almost impossible to install good brake ducts into. So I have had to do work-arounds for that issue too (WGI his heck on brakes) and now I am now sporting a custom Wilwood BBK with 1” wide rotors that I am looking to try out.
A thought on rear brakes is a set of ceramic pads. I found they have much less bite than the stock MINI pads.
It would be great to see video. It will be really different from the usual track day stuff.
Brakes have been my nemesis on my current MINI because of the DTC and the eLSD, and I have had to do a lot of research on them to get them to work right. Also, the Gen II is almost impossible to install good brake ducts into. So I have had to do work-arounds for that issue too (WGI his heck on brakes) and now I am now sporting a custom Wilwood BBK with 1” wide rotors that I am looking to try out.
A thought on rear brakes is a set of ceramic pads. I found they have much less bite than the stock MINI pads.
It would be great to see video. It will be really different from the usual track day stuff.
#32
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Wow, so cool.
A bit of bumper cars out there, but pretty respectful it seems. And an audience, too!
I would say that you have the car balanced nicely, unlike that white car that kept loosing its rear grip. Getting bumped in the back didn’t send you into a tailspin and you were able to hold your own during that long stretch with you running with that pack of three cars ahead of you.
What are you running for shocks? And would slightly stiffer help?
Nice.
A bit of bumper cars out there, but pretty respectful it seems. And an audience, too!
I would say that you have the car balanced nicely, unlike that white car that kept loosing its rear grip. Getting bumped in the back didn’t send you into a tailspin and you were able to hold your own during that long stretch with you running with that pack of three cars ahead of you.
What are you running for shocks? And would slightly stiffer help?
Nice.
#35
there are some real turd buckets in there....lol
good job.......that understeer though......ugh
you need another 10hp minimum
good job.......that understeer though......ugh
you need another 10hp minimum
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#36
Where did all that info about different sized ARB's came from? I always thought all R53 were the same, only with different springs (sport/super sport).
That build is looking good. Do they allow LSD? And how about flat underbody like on the GP?
And I would think that anyone who offers tuning for the R53 ECU can tune the R50 too... not sure if there's anything to gain from tuning tho...
That build is looking good. Do they allow LSD? And how about flat underbody like on the GP?
And I would think that anyone who offers tuning for the R53 ECU can tune the R50 too... not sure if there's anything to gain from tuning tho...