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Ha yes he was able to point out two turns where I needed to be apexing later and then showed me a different way of going thru the sweepers. I am not sure which way was faster but would like to explore if I had better datalogging. My way felt smoother but his felt faster but that is just the buttdyno-gps-gforce-majiggy ... but smooth is fast right ??
Yes I have WMW race control arm bushings and some powerflex race sway bar bushings on the bday list. Will see if my friends and family pull thru
Ya, I had an instructor change up the way I entered a pretty sharp corner called "Danny's lesson" at my favorite hometown track HPR. Could never really tell if his was faster or not, but didn't have much time before I moved out this way to test it out. Smooth is fast, correct.
I'd recommend doing all the bushings you can. It'll really dial everything in nicely. Look into the steering rack bushings as well. When I did that I could feel a much better response in my steering from just the bushings alone.
Ya, I had an instructor change up the way I entered a pretty sharp corner called "Danny's lesson" at my favorite hometown track HPR. Could never really tell if his was faster or not, but didn't have much time before I moved out this way to test it out. Smooth is fast, correct.
I'd recommend doing all the bushings you can. It'll really dial everything in nicely. Look into the steering rack bushings as well. When I did that I could feel a much better response in my steering from just the bushings alone.
Do you have a recommendation for who makes the best steering rack bushings ?
Do you have a recommendation for who makes the best steering rack bushings ?
Powerflex does. They make a lot of goodies for your R53. Looks like we have the street application bushings in the catalog HERE, but they make a race application PFF5-103B, which we have available as well. Just don't see them in there. Need to have the catalog guys update that.
Powerflex does. They make a lot of goodies for your R53. Looks like we have the street application bushings in the catalog HERE, but they make a race application PFF5-103B, which we have available as well. Just don't see them in there. Need to have the catalog guys update that.
yes I would want the racing application. On a scale from 1 to rear main seal replacement how hard would this be ?
Update: So I spent all of Saturday hand wash and waxing the car including windows and running other errands that I never got around to installing the brakes which was the most important thing to do. So I really got my moneys worth out of this last set. Even with the car all waxed and looking gorgeous and with the great weather I forgot to take a pic. I'm a potato.
Weather was on the cold side for Texas at around 48 deg and there was some wind coming off the Gulf that made it seem colder.
I ran with the Bronze group which included a Porsche Cayman, a Lotus Elise and a 700HP dodge muscle car. I was able to keep ahead of all, tho catching the Cayman proved to be the hardest. The muscle car was surprisingly capable in the turns given its heft and the driver was nice enough to lift on the straights to let me by.
They did not run a Silver group and the Gold group included a Corvette owned by the honey badger himself with Stoptech brakes larger than my wheels, some sort of Mercedes AMG that I think might have been grandfathered in and a take no prisoners Lotus Elise that I could not take my eyes off. Thing had tons of Carbon aero bits, a supercharger giving it 300HP gorgeous carbon race seats and an experienced driver who was doing 1min flat laps.
We ran in a clockwise full track configuration which is rarely done at GSS and I have only done on a sport bike so I took my time to learn the new line. I could easily have been bumped to Gold but considering my ancient brakes and that I needed to nurse the tires I opted to run a bit slower and show my friend in the lotus the line I was using.
I did not run a lap timer as the main point of the day was to have fun and see how the car handled with the new sway bar and bracing on. I know the Lotus was running 1:13s and I was several seconds faster. I would guess I was doing under 1:08. Based off his pace.
The instructor, owner of the dialed in Lotus pictured below, also did a ride along and said I was 90% of the way there. I like to think by 'there' he meant pissing excellence. But who knows.
I had the Hotchkis bar set on the medium setting and could have used a little more. Next track day I will run stiffest setting and see how that goes. The bracing added a more planted feel to the car. Particularly in the low speed stuff and a very fast change of direction low speed esse section.
I dont know when I will have the time but I need to get my new brakes put on. I also ordered a set of stainless steel lines from Detroit Tuned which should be here later this week. Madness has still not shipped my oil cooler, though it will be a couple more months before I really need it.
I have to do bullcrap family stuff for this coming holiday weekend so I wont have any time to work on the car. I am debating just dropping it off at a shop :/
Anyways thank you guys for all the pointers and interest. It really helps keep this project on the right track.
Well done on the track day. This happens with MINI all the time, kill it in the corners and then get pasted on the straight stretch. Unless you are laying down like 350 bhp in your MINI , then not much passes you. Ran with all types , they think its funny when them MINI passes then in the corners.
Most days end with .... wow MINIs are great on the track , I did not know.
On the bushings i go with PF purple, on track cars you are better with black as it has little flex , but enough.
Well done on the track day. This happens with MINI all the time, kill it in the corners and then get pasted on the straight stretch. Unless you are laying down like 350 bhp in your MINI , then not much passes you. Ran with all types , they think its funny when them MINI passes then in the corners.
Most days end with .... wow MINIs are great on the track , I did not know.
On the bushings i go with PF purple, on track cars you are better with black as it has little flex , but enough.
Thanks for the insight. Yea my favorite experience is when they mentioned they had all sorts of cars from Lambos down to Minis in the driver meeting and every one laughed. Then I passed everyone in the session and when I opened my hood to cool off the engine every one ran over to see my 'mods'. When they found out they got passed by a car with an intake less than 170hp there was some major head scratching and ego checking.
So you are saying replacing the steering rack bushing is as much work as a rear main seal ?
Thanks for the insight. Yea my favorite experience is when they mentioned they had all sorts of cars from Lambos down to Minis in the driver meeting and every one laughed. Then I passed everyone in the session and when I opened my hood to cool off the engine every one ran over to see my 'mods'. When they found out they got passed by a car with an intake less than 170hp there was some major head scratching and ego checking.
So you are saying replacing the steering rack bushing is as much work as a rear main seal ?
Yes, they should not laugh, must be a beginner crew, or they never seen a MINI on the track. Most track guys know that the MINIs can hang up here. They just think its funny when they get passed. We have allot of British car guys up here, older clientele I guess.
No, rear main seal > steering rack bushing. As the trans needs to come out for the seal.
Yes, they should not laugh, must be a beginner crew, or they never seen a MINI on the track. Most track guys know that the MINIs can hang up here. They just think its funny when they get passed. We have allot of British car guys up here, older clientele I guess.
No, rear main seal > steering rack bushing. As the trans needs to come out for the seal.
Yea i think its a mix of both. Not a lot of Mini track guys in Houston. Its just me and sssevita.
Yea I figured... rear main seal is the death tool for many weekends of wrenching
yes I would want the racing application. On a scale from 1 to rear main seal replacement how hard would this be ?
Take a look at the condition of yours right now and see what they look like. Some people say they don't notice a difference, but it could also be that they don't track the car like you, but I noticed a difference of it getting rid of a bit of the side to side slop feedback in the wheel. Not to mention my stock ones were shot and I could feel the rack shift under me when accelerating somewhat aggressively. I got under the car and said, "Welp, that explains my issue." Anyways, it may be more difficult and more worth doing when you have an issue like I did.
As for timing, I use Harry's Lap Timer on my iPhone. You can mount it so you don't see it, but you can look at it after a session which can helpful for when you go back out.
I always liked the way Lotus cars look. But it takes an experienced driver to handle them. They can bite back fast if not careful...
Instruction is always good. I have found that I loose my edge when I haven't been out with one in a while. They always seem to find something that can be improved. Best yet, is when you find suggestions that work well with a MINI. Actually, I have found the Lotus drivers have ideas that work well with MINIs. Not sure why that is...
Was able to install my brakes this weekend even after all the family stuff
Got fresh brembo rotors with Hawk HP+ pads nice and squeaky with fresh fluid and some stainless steel brake lines from Detroit tuned.
Unfortunately I picked up a tire puncture but luckily it was in a tire that was essentially junk anyway. Also noticed that whoever did the brakes last (I think it was NTB :/ ) cross threaded one of the caliper pins on the caliper carrier bracket on the rear drivers side caliper. I was able to rethread it but I wasnt happy with how much play there was in the pin. So if anyone has an old rear caliper sitting around please drop me a PM.
Got the pads seated and much happier with the stopping power now then my old beat up brakes. Also the front rotors were warped so I dont have any shaking under braking now.
When I replace the caliper I am thinking about upgrading the pins and bushings too. Does anyone run anything like this ?? How do you like the mod?
Post a WTB thread in the marketplace for a rear caliper. Someone might have one laying around. I know Way has a lot of part out cars so maybe contact him to see if he has one as well. Otherwise, we have some HERE that aren't too expensive.
Post a WTB thread in the marketplace for a rear caliper. Someone might have one laying around. I know Way has a lot of part out cars so maybe contact him to see if he has one as well. Otherwise, we have some HERE that aren't too expensive.
Hi man thanks for the input ... i will certainly check out the for sales on NAM first ... any color on upgrading puns and bushings see above ?
I believe the bushings are used to prevent the caliper flex, which is inherent in the stock bushing design. The flex basically can cause uneven pad wear and leave brake pad deposits under hard usage on your rotors, which possibly was the cause of the vibration that you were feeling in the front rotors before you replaced yours. Basically, for your purpose it would be beneficial. I did run into this thread about an install issue for you to check out. There is a link to another thread with similar complaints. Just read it over and check it out (linked below). I also found a pretty cool product testing article on them HERE.
I believe the bushings are used to prevent the caliper flex, which is inherent in the stock bushing design. The flex basically can cause uneven pad wear and leave brake pad deposits under hard usage on your rotors, which possibly was the cause of the vibration that you were feeling in the front rotors before you replaced yours. Basically, for your purpose it would be beneficial. I did run into this thread about an install issue for you to check out. There is a link to another thread with similar complaints. Just read it over and check it out (linked below). I also found a pretty cool product testing article on them HERE.
agh stuff like this makes me want to just put my money into tires and forget about it
I hear you. I cannot tell you how difficult it was to nail down my initial build because of so many people's experience with the product I wanted to run. Took me 2 years to figure out what I ultimately wanted to go with. Of course my situation was much more complex as it was a full motor build as well, but in the end I took what advice and things I saw about the products and went with my gut. Most of what I went with has turned out great, but not all. For example, the clutch I chose, I wish I could have listened to the advice given and looked for alternative options, but I experienced it for myself first hand and can better make that choice in the future for the next one. So, for the bushings maybe do some more research. There are a few threads on here with members who run them posted below. Maybe reach out to them about their experiences. Then decide what you want to do.
Was able to install my brakes this weekend even after all the family stuff
Got fresh brembo rotors with Hawk HP+ pads nice and squeaky with fresh fluid and some stainless steel brake lines from Detroit tuned.
Unfortunately I picked up a tire puncture but luckily it was in a tire that was essentially junk anyway. Also noticed that whoever did the brakes last (I think it was NTB :/ ) cross threaded one of the caliper pins on the caliper carrier bracket on the rear drivers side caliper. I was able to rethread it but I wasnt happy with how much play there was in the pin. So if anyone has an old rear caliper sitting around please drop me a PM.
Got the pads seated and much happier with the stopping power now then my old beat up brakes. Also the front rotors were warped so I dont have any shaking under braking now.
When I replace the caliper I am thinking about upgrading the pins and bushings too. Does anyone run anything like this ?? How do you like the mod?
A suggestion on changing brake pads and rotors...
I don't pull the slider pins.
I take out the 2 bolts on the back that hold the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle (in the front, for example). Then slide the whole assembly off the rotor. The pads can then be popped out of the caliper and bracket without disassembling anything. I modified a Harbor Freight brake piston pusher tool to fit through the opening in the bracket in order to compress this piston. This is easy to do and I cut down on the wear and tear on those pins and preclude the possibility of getting dirt into those bushings the sliders run on.
I have seen threads were people discussed upgraded pins and bushing for these. A search might find them.
Do you have a recommendation for who makes the best steering rack bushings ?
Yes Powerflex makes the rack bushing, but since the rack is mounted solid on the driver side most won't notice the difference. But not bad to do while you have it apart as it's a cheap mod http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...k-bushing.html
So as an early birthday gift to myself ( I turn 31 today) I bought some track time at MSRH just south of Houston in Angleton. With two long straights, a pit straight and then two long sweepers than can easily be linked as a straight before entering an awesome gut check of a turn called the launch, I was, needless to say, being passed often. After running so much at GSS, I almost forgot what it was like to be passed.
Running at MSRH made me realize how GSS is basically a faster autox without the cones. To say GSS favors the mini cooper would be an understatment. I also noticed that the track surface at MSRH lacked the grip of GSS but on the flip side this extends tire life. Unfortunately for me, I did not adapt to this soon enough.
I had my first spin Coming through the carousel (long left hander) I was trying to catch a BRZ and decided I would get a good run on him down the pit straight as this a risky corner where most people don't push it. 7/10ths corners for sure. I got a big wobble in the rear as I lifted to try to get the car flat for the transition into the right hander turn 'joe bone' and I saw two options.
1. Try to correct
2. Ride it out
If I corrected but wasn't able to stick it I would either cut across the inside of Joe Bone where a Lotus Evora was likely trying to get a run on me OR slide into a concrete wall.
Riding it out involved spinning off the inside of the exit of the carousel/entrance of joe bone at 87 mph. It is really hard to describe all the details in writing here but at the time I believe I made the right decision with what was facing me. I really believe the attitude of the car would not have accepted my attempted correction and the stakes were just too high. Instead I came to a graceful stop in a patch of grass along the pit entrance. I was enormously impressed with my ability to stay calm given how disastrous that could have turned out, the speed of my decision making and how I quickly got back on the track unfazed (must be from my sport bike racing days). I also processed all this information soo quickly.
Lessons learned:
1. I should not have done as large a lift as I did to settle the car for the transition.
2. I should have dialed out a bit more steering angle before I went to settle the car.
3. Always check tire pressures - I didn't mention it above but I think high rear tire pressures played a big role in this
4. And lastly and most obviously don't push in the 7/10ths corner its just a track day not a race.
I found that I could go through the carousel comfortably (7/10ths) at 80mph vs the 90mph I was pushing in that run. If I am going to get there it needs to be incremental.
The funny thing is the Evora I thought was all over my tail ready to get a run at me was in fact quite far back as he showed my on his gopro of the incident. We had a good laugh over lunch. That was one of the main reasons I didn't try to correct.
Later in the day I had another incident which I couldn't see coming at all. Coming down the pit straight I blipped the downshift from 4 -3 and got on the brakes just ahead of the 300 mark as I was taking it a bit easier on this run given there were two cars off the track being actively recovered (I'm not a fan of this). I felt nothing different under braking but I also wasn't braking as hard as normal as I was moving a bit slower given the safety vehicles swarming the track a few corners away. When I initiated my turn in the car spun so fast I can't even remember how many rotations I did. I instantly thought that there must be fluids down on the track because not only did I do everything as normal, I also did it at slower than normal and further from the tire's traction limit. Anyways the car did some more off-roading and the underside of the car hit the kerbing pretty hard. I need to inspect the car some more but the madness lower brace which some vendors gave me sh*t for buying actually saved the lower end of my car.
I wish I could say that everything in between those incidents was perfect but I was learning the track and the groups I was running with were very quick. I felt quick in some sections and running behind the lead instructor and having him spin showed just how hard everyone was pushing it. The lap times the top guys in our group were putting down would have put them in good position in the german touring car race that was also run that day.
For most of the day the rear of the car was more unsettled than normal. I am sure that some of that was tire pressure and some could have been driving style, but I am wondering if maybe I need to stagger brake pads but putting a less aggressive pad in the rear. Or is it time to get a huge wing
I was also able to meet Alan who races a Green R53 pictured below. The car has had some serious track prep done to it by a shop in Fort Worth but he runs a stock engine grouped against Porsches and M3s which is testament to Mini power and driver skill. I am curious to talk to him about the race I clocked him between 1:46 and 1:48 with my phone stopwatch. I am sure he is not stoked about his result but I was rooting for you the whole way.
This track day ended the same as my last one. With me running half the track to go pick up a fender that popped loose. This time around I even taped them down. Does anyone know good after market ones I can rivet on? Otherwise I am just going to pull them all off for full 24h lemons look.
I am really stoked after this last event. I learned a lot about car control and NASA racing, got to meet new people and I finally got my first spin out of the way. I wish I had more time and money to devote to this project but I have to do it incrementally and with that I will gain experience and learn. I just wish I could do a bit more.
With that said I will probably not be back on track until the Feb 21 event at GSS. Until then some serious wrenching must take place to discover the source of an oil leak, possibly delete the AC, install oil cooler, get some camber and a good professional alignment especially after hitting that kerbing. Stay tuned
Yea, just pull them off. Most people do or the shave them on the inner side a bit. So you cant see it on the outside. Razor or a cutter will help. Some people file them back.
Yea, just pull them off. Most people do or the shave them on the inner side a bit. So you cant see it on the outside. Razor or a cutter will help. Some people file them back.
Sounds like a really fun day.
its not an issue with rubbing or anything its that they are being jarred loose. I am thinking about putting crazy glue on the little tabs or something like that, but maybe a body shop could rivet on some really cool wider arches more up the task
So its hitting the dips hard and catching that corner I would check those clips, they tend to break and then they pop off all the time. Either new hardware or look at the arch hardware connection, those clips that set into the arch also tend it bend out the molded slot , U shape. Then when you push them back in it does not hold. Otherwise glue or double sided tape to hold them , get 3M tape if you do.
its a dumb design to begin with and certainly not up to the task for track applications. Something like rivets would be the way to go but they are pretty ugly
WOudlnt double sided tap **** the paint up proper ?
Might be able to use some sort of 3M adhesive tape for added durability. Should check this MINI out HERE. It's a pretty interesting look/design.
Anyways, good job with the high intense situation. That'll really get you prepared for wheel to wheel racing. Being able to respond quickly and clearly to the situation like you did is great. You're also learning so learning how far you can push yourself and your MINI is a process. There's a gnarly corner called Danny's Lesson at my hometown track. I went 2 off at that corner and sure did learn my lesson. Now it's one of my favorite corners at the track. And yes, tire pressures are important. Learning the right ones at each track will definitely help you out there as well.
its a dumb design to begin with and certainly not up to the task for track applications. Something like rivets would be the way to go but they are pretty ugly
WOudlnt double sided tap **** the paint up proper ?
Not the 3M red cover tape, thats the same stuff used on the emblems and your Cooper S emblem.
01-11-2016, 01:28 PM
Anyways, it may be more difficult and more worth doing when you have an issue like I did.
Coming through the carousel (long left hander) I was trying to catch a BRZ and decided I would get a good run on him down the pit straight as this a risky corner where most people don't push it. 7/10ths corners for sure. I got a big wobble in the rear as I lifted to try to get the car flat for the transition into the right hander turn 'joe bone' and I saw two options.
I would check those clips, they tend to break and then they pop off all the time. Either new hardware or look at the arch hardware connection, those clips that set into the arch also tend it bend out the molded slot , U shape. Then when you push them back in it does not hold. Otherwise glue or double sided tape to hold them , get 3M tape if you do. 
