FSP / DSP (Street Prepared) Alignment Specs
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05-28-2011, 04:50 AM
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#2
05-28-2011, 12:43 PM
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Sounds fun.
I don't have direct experience with original Minis, but I can give you some generic FWD alignment guidelines. It will be up to you to figure out how close you can get given any suspension adjustment limitations.
I'd suggest targeting maximum front negative camber, up to about -2.5 degrees. More may be better, but you'll start to noticably trade off straightline traction (acceleration and braking) with cornering grip. Depending on the car and course, that may or may not be a worthwhile tradeoff. You'll have to experiment.
In the rear, it's all about getting the balance that works best for you. Weight distribution and spring rates come into play (as well as sway bar stiffnesses). Generically speaking, I've had good luck with rear camber being one to .75 degrees less than front camber so you might start around there if you don't get better info from someone who knows your car better.
Too much, or too little rear camber will reduce rear grip. Tire pressures do the same thing (too high or too low drop grip). The way the rear tires break away (how progressive it is) can be different though. Don't forget that tires are springs too.
Anyway, while I recommend maximizing front grip, and rear too for the most part, being able to get the rear to rotate well with trailing throttle oversteer can be very handy in auctocross conditions, especially tighter courses or elements. You can use spring rates and alignment to get things where you generally want them, and can use tire pressure for minor tweaks.
More front caster is generally good. For toe, I personally prefer zero front and rear to minimize rolling resistance and tire wear on the street. My car turns in well, so this also works well for me on course. Many find that 1/8" to as much as 1/4" toe out up front helps with turn initiation. In the rear, toe in will increase stability and toe out will decrease it. I'd suggest starting about zero.
Hope that helps - good luck and have fun!
Scott
90SMF
I don't have direct experience with original Minis, but I can give you some generic FWD alignment guidelines. It will be up to you to figure out how close you can get given any suspension adjustment limitations.
I'd suggest targeting maximum front negative camber, up to about -2.5 degrees. More may be better, but you'll start to noticably trade off straightline traction (acceleration and braking) with cornering grip. Depending on the car and course, that may or may not be a worthwhile tradeoff. You'll have to experiment.
In the rear, it's all about getting the balance that works best for you. Weight distribution and spring rates come into play (as well as sway bar stiffnesses). Generically speaking, I've had good luck with rear camber being one to .75 degrees less than front camber so you might start around there if you don't get better info from someone who knows your car better.
Too much, or too little rear camber will reduce rear grip. Tire pressures do the same thing (too high or too low drop grip). The way the rear tires break away (how progressive it is) can be different though. Don't forget that tires are springs too.
Anyway, while I recommend maximizing front grip, and rear too for the most part, being able to get the rear to rotate well with trailing throttle oversteer can be very handy in auctocross conditions, especially tighter courses or elements. You can use spring rates and alignment to get things where you generally want them, and can use tire pressure for minor tweaks.
More front caster is generally good. For toe, I personally prefer zero front and rear to minimize rolling resistance and tire wear on the street. My car turns in well, so this also works well for me on course. Many find that 1/8" to as much as 1/4" toe out up front helps with turn initiation. In the rear, toe in will increase stability and toe out will decrease it. I'd suggest starting about zero.
Hope that helps - good luck and have fun!
Scott
90SMF
#3
05-29-2011, 01:50 AM
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Location: Central Oregon
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