Intake camshaft position timing over retarded...made appt with Mini Nashville, closest Mini dealer, problem is it's a 140 mile drive with a major incline (Mount Eagle Mt.) will it be safe to drive it or do we need to fork out a ton to have it towed?

If we can drive it is there anything we need to be watchful of?

 

both the half engine and the engine were on. Now the half engine has gone off. The full engine is yellow and not flashing. There is no rattle. Any input will be greatly appreciated, thanks

 

Most likely the chain jumped the cam and now it is not firing sequencially. The Limp Mode will come back (half engine pic in cluster)and your probably going to misfire.

I'm no mechanic but if you do take that 140 mile trip, it will be at 30-40mph and it will take all day. My recommendation would be to rent a U-Haul truck with a full car dolly (not just the front wheels) and drive it to the Mini Dealer, hell of a lot cheaper than a tow truck.

 

thank you for the reply, we are not running on limp mode car is driving as normal a little hesitation when first put foot down. Good idea about the u-haul never thought about that.

Went and filled the tank (was on 1/2) and turned on Air Con, when lights came on air con was off..... now both the half engine and full engine both have turned off. do not know what that has to do with anything, just observation.

Will call Mini of Nashville tomorrow, not sure what good it will be to drive all that way with the lights off now.

 

The ECU will store the code and they can tell you what went wrong. It could be as simple as bad gas (lol) or a ready to die coil. I think it's always a good idea to have it checked out, this way you learn more about the "characteristics" of your Mini

 

I'm having the same P0012 code in my 2010 Mini Clubman 1.4/Auto...Yellow check Engine light comes on, but then turns off a day later. A few weeks later, it does same thing.
Thought maybe bad gas, but I always go to Chevron, use Supreme.
There's no hesitation or erratic engine issues.
No loss of MPG.

Was looking at videos on ease of replacement of VANOS Solenoid--maybe that is issue?

Any input would be awesome as I am a bit of a noob and would like to diagnose as much as possible before S**T hits the fan...