Reduced engine power dummy light questions
 

I'm getting the reduced engine power light pretty consistently whenever I drive over around 4k RPMs, or when I'm at idle and I blip the throttle hard, but not up past 4k. The light goes away after I drive for several miles while keeping revs low.

I figured this would throw a code, so I hooked up the OBDII reader, and there's zero codes stored.

Any ideas on where I should start first? I hate to put in part after part until the problem goes away.

That's very odd you aren't getting a code. Sometimes the manufacturer has codes that the standard OBD II tool wont read. For example, I believe, the Actron tool only goes to P0998 and after that they become "manufacturer codes," meaning they may not show up in the scan tool. Have you checked your spark plugs? Just looking over this NAM thread here about the engine power light on the Countryman, some people have noted a few things that might help give you an idea. May or may not help.

-Luccia

I'm using the iGeek scanner which claims to read Manufacturer codes, but I guess there's no real way of telling. Thanks for the link I'll go through and see what I can glean.

Strange! Well the common theme I saw from skimming was spark plugs. Maybe someone will chime in with another idea. Let us know what you find out. :thumbsup:

-Luccia

The only time I got the partial-power light was when my high pressure fuel pump began to fail, not a code that my OBD scanner could read. Just from Auto 101, that would be consistent with your symptoms (gets fuel starved when revved, recovers at low rpm).


But a real code reader would narrow it down for certain.

I was going to say something about the HPFP. The HPFP could be getting weak/bypassing. I know BMW had a bunch of issues with these on the turbo cars.

-Luccia

I just had my diverter valve on the turbo replaced for the same symptoms. No check engine codes but would throw half engine light when accelerating fast. Car ran fine otherwise. New diverter valve and car is back to normal. The diaphragm in the valve was torn.

That was my first thought, and I'm pretty sure that part is still under warranty, but I don't want to take it to the dealer to have them say it's something else (after charging a diagnostic fee). I may bite the bullet and do it anyway. I don't have time for this crap right now :sad:

Thinking this is my last MINI. Or at least my next one will have an extended warranty.

Maybe search out an indy shop as I'm sure their diagnostic fee will be a lot better. These cars do come with maintenance needs. It is an option to lease one and just upgrade each time once the lease is up. My mother did that with her Audi'd and never dealt with any maintenance needs outside of the warranty. It is an option. Let us know if it does turn out to be the HPFP. :thumbsup:

-Luccia

Will do! I'm going to take it to an indie next week and if they tell me it's HFPF it's going to dealer for warranty fix.

I don't mind maintenance needs, but I just paid $2700 for a new timing chain, sprocket, and valve cover gasket when I only have ~60K miles. That is excessive to me.

I'm pretty sure that if the Indy tells you it's the HPFP, Mini will still charge a fee to diagnose the issue. They don't generally take your word for it. At least that has been my experience.

I just realized I never updated this thread. It was the diverter valve...kept being stuck closed. New one did the trick.

just fixed mine as well, same symptoms. never saved any codes.

i had half power light, replaced spring in old diverter valve and made sure diaphragm was ok. no change. did walnut blasting, no change. took it to dealer, they said diverter valve. so i put a new valve on with the new alta spring in it, problem solved.

I have the 1/2 power light all the time after a high rev when I lost traction in the rain, and low oil pressure momentarily. I definitely feel like 1/2 power, no turbo. Dealer says I need a new turbo for $3600! I have 65,000 miles on a 2009. I am arguing with them, may replace it with a 40 mm aftermarket and new catted down tube just to ensure no back pressure issues. They want $1000 for the labor ! I am trying to get them to come down with a 25% off repair coupon in the mail but so far only coming down on their parts. Furious!!! The turbo I am considering is a JMTC from Mini Mania, any comments or experience. Then there is the check engine light I will probably get with the aftermarket catted down pipe.