I find the Nitto NT01 to be a value oriented r-comp. Grip is average for an r-comp and it is really noisy and heavy feeling. However, it is really pretty good for the price and with proper tire pressure and rotation can last a fair number of track days, around 8 days.

 

Thanks for the info. I will report back after my 2 track days in a few weeks at Thunder Hill

 

You are running the 15 mm spacers right?

 

Yes, I am.

 

Wahoo5 would there be a better offset to run sans spacers or are you stuck with spacers at that size? Also, is there anyone who as run 245's on 8" 17's with any luck?

 

and factory sport suspension, running Michelin PS2 225/45-17's. (Posting figuring with an MCCS and the Challenge wheels it still will have the same clearance issues)

No rubbing at all--over 4,000 miles of use now. Tightest clearances are on inside front of tires when going to full lock (but still clears inner fender lining), and up near the inner top and inside edge of shock towers in front (clears fine but wouldn't be room for tire cable chains). Rear is all fine--seems tightest near inside side of tire rather than at fenders, but all fine.

Speedo error reduced by about 1/2 ; filled out fender wells somewhat more visually too. Very satisfied.

If you go 225's, look carefully at the sidewall width. Some listed in the detailed TireRack specs are 3/10's" or so wider in the sidewall area (where it bulges the widest) than others, even if the tread width is relatively constant and it is nominally the identical tire size. The Michelins (and a variety of others) were narrower in this dimension, but some were wider. Would have one to a 215 if I really wanted a given brand but the spec. had an above average sidewall width.

 

I think you are stuck with spacers on a lowered suspension. We looked at 245s on 8" rims and couldn't find anyone doing it or to tell us it would not rub.

Here it is with the 235s. They do not rub.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ogburn/5479131329/

 

This winter I've been running 215 x 45 x 17" with Michelin ICE tires. No problems. I had thought about going with the 205 x 50 x 17" but Alex at Tire Rack suggested that I not do this if I was thinking about lowering the car any. I'd like to go with either that, or the 225's, but with my luck, I'd have a suspension issue at the very least. Still have to do the Summer tires this year. Everytime that I think about that, we get another cold/icy snap.

 

Just want to clarify, when you said full lock, did you kept putting weights into your MINI until all of your suspensions have fully compressed, then you measure the space between the tires with the strut and fender. Please advise! Thanks!

 

I simply turned steering left to full lock and then right to full lock. It doesn't touch it the inner fender liner. I don't think doing that at any real speed or really loaded would make much practical sense--you wouldn't corner hard to the point of full lock and load up the suspension like that, short of some kind of street stunt driving anyway as far as I can think of.

As far as the struts, it's not that close where I think any suspension deflection is going to make a material difference. By eye and feel, I would call it about 1/2" plus from the tire to the spring perch lower edge when looked at for verticl clearance. That dimension can't change in any meaningful way regardless of suspension deflection. As far as the inner clearance--widest part of sidewall over to the lower part of the strut below the spring perch, I would call that about 3/8"--about the thickness of a man's index finger at the nail squeezed a bit to be specific how I approximated. It is no where chose to paper thin or even 1/8" or less or some such where it might be getting close. If I used the widest 225's in the sidewall or went up toward 235's or some such I would want to check more, but I don't feel it's near the ragged edge yet at 225/45 in the MIchelin PS2's.
And, the practical field test is about 4,000 miles now on the tires, with car filled up at times (4 people) and driven on highways, aggressive on ramp cornering, city streets and bumps, etc. No rubbing and no marks indicating the same anywhere inside the fenders or on the tires.

 

Are you running special offset wheels? I know when I ran 225-35-18’s on my OZ wheels, the right rear would scrub the inner liner.

I’ve since installed coilovers and switched back to 17’s (215’s) and the ride is soooo much better.


Mark

 

Im looking at winter tires & wheels .
Im leaning towards 205/50 17 continental extreme contact.
At little more side wall for the NJ pot holes.
Any reasons why I should not?
thanks doug

 

215/45/17 falken 502's just put them on an hour ago ! Stoked on the look as well as my grip to the road !

 

I had the same delema last year and went with Michelin ICE in a 215 x45 x 17. I looked at the 205/50's, but Alex talked me out of them. Not alot of upward movement clearance there. They worked great, plus the Michelin price and rebate was great too.

 

Over 10K miles (including one trip to the Tail of the Dragon) on 215-45/17 Continental Extreme Contact DW.
Car has JCW sports suspension.
I have encountered no rubbing.
Speedometer is still off: Indicated 75 mph is 72 per GPS.

 

Am I understanding this correctly.
205 /50 17 will fit on a stock 2010 JCW clubman.
Only a problem if vehicle is lowered? I have no intentions of lowering.
thanks doug

 

Alex talked me out of the 205/50/17 also, He said some have a rear tire clearance issue when carrying passengers.

 

235/40-17 toyo R888 with no issues.

 

 

 

What wheels and offset?...I just got a set of 225/45-17 R888 to put on a set of Enkei w/38 mm offset and stock suspension. Hoping they will fit.

 

Veggi has a similar setup on his r53 with the 225 rcomp tires with non lowered suspension and they fit his car. I think you should be good to go.

 

Stock challenge wheels with 5mm spacers and no rubbing. You should be fine.

 

Thanks

 

215/45-R17 Michelin Pilot Super Sports. They're great - have 'em on my old M3 too (different size).

I'm now fiddling around with tire pressure.