Factory JCW Talk (2009+) Discussion of the factory-built 2nd Gen JCW MINI Cooper S, and all unique aspects of this trim.

JCW rattles!

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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 02:46 PM
  #51  
orangecrush's Avatar
orangecrush
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From: Charlotte, NC.
Originally Posted by rjb
You guys are too picky...I owned a brand new 1986 Corvette and got concerned when a particular rattle DISAPPEARED. I figured that the part that was rattling had just fallen off, and then got concerned that I might actually NEED that part

Ahhhh, C4's. Rattle traps.... did you know that when they made the C5, they made the dash with 1500 less pieces just in the dash?

Mark
 
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 10:31 AM
  #52  
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spinned
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I just fixed mine after reading this post.Removed 2 black plastic caps by boot latch.Torx 30 wrench needed to loosen latching mechanism-had to move mine to the right a little.Rattle is now gone.
Rather than doing this why don't you start by turning the black rubber bump stops on the bottom of the rear hatch. Turning them will adjust them in or out, and you can do this to tighten the fit of the hatch so it wont rattle. Requires fingers and about 2 minutes. Try backing them out a half turn and then drive the car. If it still makes noise try another half turn.

Same thing goes for the front hood if it is out of alignment against the fender trim.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 10:57 AM
  #53  
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rjb
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From: Eastern Panhandle, WV
Originally Posted by orangecrush
Ahhhh, C4's. Rattle traps.... did you know that when they made the C5, they made the dash with 1500 less pieces just in the dash?

Mark
Doesn't surprise me, I think I had 1500 screws alone in my dash...Helped a friend once replace a heater core which required that the top dash pad come off...I didn't think we'd ever get that puzzle put back together again
 
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 12:58 PM
  #54  
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orangecrush
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From: Charlotte, NC.
Originally Posted by spinned
Rather than doing this why don't you start by turning the black rubber bump stops on the bottom of the rear hatch. Turning them will adjust them in or out, and you can do this to tighten the fit of the hatch so it wont rattle. Requires fingers and about 2 minutes. Try backing them out a half turn and then drive the car. If it still makes noise try another half turn.

Same thing goes for the front hood if it is out of alignment against the fender trim.
As a bodyshop guy, I can only say you can't turn more than a turn or two before you start pushing the liftgate out where you can physically see it doesn't line up with the quarters.

But then again, I'm kinda ****.

Mark
 
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #55  
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hemisedan
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
Ornge Crush, just how did you get the 221 whp and 250 wtq? I'm going to be getting a JCW soon but want a little more street power. Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 12:30 PM
  #56  
zoom205's Avatar
zoom205
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So many things to learn,so little time to learn them.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 04:51 PM
  #57  
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orangecrush
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From: Charlotte, NC.
Originally Posted by hemisedan
Ornge Crush, just how did you get the 221 whp and 250 wtq? I'm going to be getting a JCW soon but want a little more street power. Thanks.
The 3 things I would suggest is....

a)RMW tune
b)CAI
c)catback exhaust

I've also got a larger intercooler, boost tubes.

The car starts off in the 2000 rpm range and stays at no less than 240wtq all the way to 6300.

HTH's,

Mark
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 06:40 PM
  #58  
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WestonJCW
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For anyone who's lazy and wants an effective and simple way to get rid of the extremely annoying boot area rattle,follow this link.
It works.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...3-post825.html
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 08:00 PM
  #59  
orangecrush's Avatar
orangecrush
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From: Charlotte, NC.
Originally Posted by WestonJCW
For anyone who's lazy and wants an effective and simple way to get rid of the extremely annoying boot area rattle,follow this link.
It works.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...3-post825.html

Or you could lube the crap out of it with white grease.


Mark
 
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