So I got my new NM Power module from an awesome user on NAM. Loving it so far, the car just feels so much faster. I'm using it on low with 93 octane gas.

Of course I was bragging to my buddies and they said they weren't sure if it's safe that the module is tricking the car into producing more boost. That it was better to just have it tuned because the tuners can monitor your engine?

My question is how much boost should I expect now that I've added the Power Mod.?? (I don't have a boost gauge.) Is it a safe amount? What's the most the car can handle stock? Is the power mod safe long term?

Any help would be appreciated!

 

Don't sweat it. I've been running my NM on low in conjunction with the JCW Pro Tuning Kit for going on two years. Everything from grocery getting to running the heck out of it on my local country roads and numerous trips to The Dragon have not caused a hiccup. Four and five hour trips on the interstates at 70-80 mph are also taken in stride without a problem.

 

Have you had a chance to dyno your car yet? I’m in the same boat and was curious if I’d have any issues using the NM with my f56s and pro tuning kit.

 

I haven't, but Pedro (supermini) has and IIRC his clocked ~267 HP.

http://www.motoringfun.com/2015/11/1...-power-module/

 

Engines are strong. I peak at 22psi 276whp 373wtq.
Dont sweat it at your power level.
These are the same motors in some of the 3 series models and I believe the X1 which produce around 250hp stock.
The MINI version is just detuned.

 

After having my power module installed for about 9 months, I recently received the "drivetrain malfunction reduced power" msg on my center console along with a CEL a few miles later. I removed the module prior to dropping it off at Mini and, sometime in between, the error msg went away, along with the CEL. After Mini looked at it, they said it was a faulty temperature sensor and replaced it. I got the car back and drove it two weeks without issue. I then re-installed the power module and received the drivetrain malfunction msg within 3 days of installing it. I recently contacted NM engineering and they suggested it's still something related to the car, whether it be that Mini didn't clear the codes or that the new sensor is also faulty. So I will be taking it back to Mini again. I was just curious if anyone had a similar issue.

 

I did have something similar happen with my '15 MC S. I had the Dinan at the time and, after four trips to the dealer, we learned it was the crankshaft sensor. Word of warning: MINI will likely replace everything on that service bus before wanting to replace the crankshaft sensor (if that is your issue).

My car received:
- temperature sensor
- boost pressure sensor
- accelerator pedal sensor
- oil pressure sensor
- throttle position sensor
- crankshaft sensor

To be fair, my car also had some stalling issues you may or may not be having and had issues with and without the Dinan installed...good luck!

 

Did you happen to have a software update done at the Dealer between the time you put the module in and now? Seems like a bunch of these piggybacks are failing after the DME update is done.

 

Thanks for the info. I actually have brought my car in for stalling. It only happened once when shifting into reverse but the engine still stutters every once in a while when shifting into reverse. Maybe it is the crankshaft sensor. So you also avoided letting your mini dealership know about the power module?


That did cross my mind, because I did have the software update done when trying to resolve the stalling issue, but that was about 5,000 miles prior to getting the drivetrain malfunction error. So I don't think it's related. I also mentioned it to the NM Eng Rep. and they didn't think it was an issue.

 

My dealership knew I had a Dinan and that I had seen issues/error messages when it was both installed and uninstalled. I did make sure that it was removed before it went in for service as I figured that would make life easier for everyone.

 

So just wanted to give an update to avoid any concern about the NM Eng. Power Module. I found out a rodent got into my car and ripped apart the car's electrical harness. I have not received my car back yet to confirm this was the issue, but I find it hard to believe it was just coincidence, Mini believes it was definitely triggering the drivetrain malfuction error.

 

Probably after some of that treehugger approved soy based wire insulation.

 

Are they still using that? I thought there was a lawsuit over using soy based materials.

 

Just cost $80 for mouse chew on sensor wiring. Using mothballs and rodent spray. 5 cats and 2 ferrets in neighborhood can't keep them away. Replaced battery cover and they did it again. Must be a bad winter. Honda sells rodent tape to wrap wiring Dealer told me that a clubman had the harness chewed-one week labor ($5000) plus harness.
Need to find out about lawsuit.

 

It cost me $3,200, including labor, for the harness replacement on my f56. I fortunately have a $100 deductible on my insurance. I'm not sure what to do going forward to stop them though. I first noticed my battery cover ripped apart too. I thought that was the only damage they did... boy was I wrong.

 

Hi I had exactly the same issue with my f56 2017 and when I took it to the dealer they said the cylinders have lost power so I drove with that home in grounded eat now it has been three weeks and I haven’t taken care of it yet I really hope that someone can tell me what to do or what could it be since there are not many mechanics for that car in my hometown

 

The damn squirrels were eating my Internet wire on the pole outside our house because the enjoyed the tasty soy insulation. I'd love to met the idiot that though that up. Can't blame the animals, they are just animals. Like blaming your dog for eating your shoe if it's made out of Milk bone dog biscuits. It's the morons that thought a food product was a good choice that need to be dealt with..

 

I had a mouse chew the wires on my R52 MINI twice, First it was the spark plug boots, next time it was the wire harness and everything. They even chewed the underside heat insulation. Insurance paid for it and I dont park in that outside location anymore, Now its in a garage and protected so far.

 

Let my female ferret (Chloe) spend 20m minutes under the hood (cold engine) after a mouse chewed through a ground wire causing a fault. Our male (Maverick) would probably chew on the rubber wire boots trying to steal them.. Got mothballs (paper wrapped from Walmart), rodent spray repellant (from Amazon) and never have had a problem since. Replace mothballs once a year and tuck them under the NM brace bar.

 

I have a friend that swears Bounce Dryer sheets deter mice from getting into his winter stored Corvette. Sets the sheet on and around his wheels as they appear to be the entrance ramp into his cars. He said he sprinkled "talc powder" around so foot prints would show up...they stopped at the base of the tires, saw no indication that the critters climbed the tires or wheels.

Duuno........that's his story.......your results may vary. For the cost of a box of Bounce, I'd give them a try.

 

Hey everyone. I am currently experiencing the problems listed above with my 2015 Cooper S! I have an exhaust from AWE and an nm power module. I have a check engine light and twice now, it has put my car in limp mode and said drivetrain malfunction. Here are the codes I’m getting as well pictured below:

 

Do you have it set to high?

 

I do not. I have the setting on low. Which is why it’s weird that it would be happening. I do drive it a little hard but never abused. Might just take it off

 

Mine did the same before I went with the JCW tune. Sent it back to NM (or whomever bought them) and they first repaired the wire connectors and second time replaced the wiring harness. It sent the error code/limp mode when I hit a large bump in the road, like a bridge/overpass, and appears that the wires were not long enough for the engine flex. The wiring had an intermittent short. Never put it back on.

 

Here's something to consider as this had been discussed on the BMW forums (regarding the Dinan Elite tuner) and in a sense confirmed w/ Dinan.

The discussion went something like this. How come some guys are having CEL's while others are not? the discussion came to this :

All cars that are mass produced use many components that are designed to operate within a certain range. At the end of production these cars are tested to see if they all run properly and do not display any issues (CEL's Malfunctions, etc.) It is likely a very small percentage (<1%) do not operate properly and are QA's more closely for correction. Knowing this, some cars meet specification during the final test, but just barely so. Manufacturer has no way to know which cars are boarder-line and which are not (again a small percentage). These cars are sold and because these car are boarder-line, the end buyer may start to have a series of problems like CEL's , drive train malfunctions, Limp modes, that when taken in cannot be completely fixed by the dealers (since the issue is with a series of components that operating so close to accepted limits that as a whole, the car just can't be fixed properly). These cars fall into the "Lemon" category. We know they exist because there are laws in place to protect the consumer.

Now, lets add a component to the mass produced cars that was never intended to be put on the car by the manufacturer and we've created a potential situation where non-Lemon cars can start to have issues that would otherwise fall into the "lemon" category. CEL's,etc. The reason why not all cars have issues is likely due to their operating limits of all the car components together having more of a cushion before a code is thrown. Rather like a blood pressure tests, there are low, normal and high. A person could be test in the normal range (but close to the high range), and change their diet and suddenly show high blood pressure. Someone with a lower number in the normal range could change diet and still be tested w/ normal numbers. if that makes sense.

FWIW, I'd pull the module and see if you throw any codes. If not you know it's the module. Don't know what gas you run in your car, but you could go with the highest octane (I run 93 top tier in both my BMW and MINI) you can and top tier fuel. Re-install the module and test it. If you get codes, contact NM and see what remedy they suggest. NM has been the bullet proof tune used by many on this forum w/ excellent results. You may have one of those car that doesn't like any add-on tunes as it may be operating close to the extreme of it's designed specifications.

If you want something extra from your car, I'd consider a JCW tune. Covered by the factory warranty and does make a noticeable improvement in performance (although it is on the expensive side by comparison).

Dinan pulled their original Stage 1 from the market and replaced w/ a less aggressive model since too many cars were having issues (mine included). My car showed high pressures but the code would clear on it's own. I elected to keep mine since it doesn't affect the car's performance and doesn't do any damage. Dinan confirmed that during shut down the ECU reads pressure and will throw a CEL on the next start up. I plan to go w/ the stage 2 which will be a flash tune so I'm playing the waiting game. Additionally the Dinan has a piggy back warranty that covers the tuner and any damages it may cause to car (my BMW dealer is also my Dinan dealer, so any problems are resolved without me getting directly involved w/ Dinan).

I originally planned on putting a Dinan elite tune on my new 2019 MCS (and save money over a JCW tune) since Dinan would cover the tune and the car during the factory warranty period. After reading some threads with CEL's after installing the Dinan I opted for the JCW tune instead.

All the above is not gospel, but rather a semi consensus of opinion between people with similar issues with some input from Dinan..