I don't know if it was ever answered, but does the electronic oil level indicator ever show more than 100% if it was filled more than that?

@Toyopet
That is weird. I always thought the Mobil1 0W40 bottle had LL-01 on the label but I don't see it on your picture. Could it be that they dropped it and now they are going cheap?

 

Amazon had it for the same price last week w/Prime shipping.

 

Will a wobble extension work with the 32mm socket to remove the filter housing or is a swiveling u-joint socket needed? (through the access panel)

 

Might not apply to everyone, especially if you live in the US where parts are cheaper but Beck/Arnley #0410874 is the same thing as the OEM filter at a lower cost. It comes in Beck/Arnley branded packaging but within it is MAHLE (who manufacture the OE filter) packaging which contains the filter. Really other than lacking specific "BMW" markings, the filter is otherwise the same and contains an o-ring, crush washer and new plastic filter drain. My local dealer charges $25CAD/filter so to get three for $47CAD from RockAuto helps save a bit. The MAHLE filter is also available at ECS tuning for a bit more at $9.23USD currently.









OEM filter on the left

 

Excellent Sneakz! Thanks for the info.

 

I changed my own oil on my JCW F56 2DR HB last week. Since receiving my JCW at the end of May of this year, I have put on approximately 1300km - 800miles.

I purchased an OEM filter from BMW / Mini (not from where I purchased my JCW, but the local BMW - Mini Dealer) and I paid $20.50CDN - $15.76US. No shipping, no waiting. I went that route because a) I could not really get it any cheaper for OEM or better quality Oil Filter and Kit and b) Nobody can question whether or not you put in the right or wrong part (it's OEM! ! !)

It was a super easy process, and I my opinion as easy as it gets for the home mechanic (ever change the oil on a vehicle who's oil filter sits right side up, on the top portion of the engine, right in between the manifold leading to the down pipe... oh fun).

I even took a sample of the OEM oil after 1300km - 807 miles (took my sample at the mid drain point, after I returned home from my commute from work), that I will send off for analysis.

Put back in 4.73 Litres of Royal Purple 0W20 synthetic oil, and added exactly a pinch more than 1/2 litre the same oil. Sent off the remaining oil to the recycling centre, and next day, on the drive to work (after everything was in operating temperature) took an oil level reading, at it was perfect.

Plan on changing the oil again next year, prior to restarting the car after winter storage. Have on order Royal Purple 0W40 Synthetic Motor Oil that I plan on using.

Cheers

 

Please post the UOA of the OEM oil when you get a chance. It'd be interesting to see the additive pack on the OEM oil which I believe is the Shell GTL oil.

I've also been using RP HPS 5W-30 on my Cooper S. Two annual oil changes with the HPS so far and I've been satisfied. Planning to send some sample to Blackstone after my next oil change. I want to see whether the RP oil is really prone to shearing or it's just a myth.

 

I have the sample oil, and just received the sample and return packaging material from Blackstone. I will be heading out to the US in two weeks and will ship off the sample to be analyzed off on the 23 of August. Once I hear back from them, will post results.

 

I'm guessing its safe to use this oil

Castrol 03037 EDGE Gold 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 quart (API SL, ACEA A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB-Approval 229.5, VW 502 00, VW 505 00)

 

On this website it meets the specs.

https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/cat...ml?3593=536319

 

I hope you guys using Blackstone are paying the couple extra $$ to get the TBN as well. That is the indicator as to how much life is left in the oil. I have used them on the last 3 vehicles to determine the 'proper' oil change intervals on them rather than the 'old school' 3000 miles. TBN's pointed me to intervals of 4000-5000 miles, which has saved me some $$ over the average 9 years of ownership of each one. Looking forward to your results and how they compare to the ECU's calculation of life left, could be interesting.

 

Were you using dyno oil? 4k-5k seems really short.

 

Yes, hard to beat a $19 oil change. All engines hit over 100K miles without any major wear or oil consumption on the dyno oil, so hard to argue on those examples. I did always kick over to 'high mileage' version of the dyno oils when I hit 75K miles as a way to follow mfg recommendations. I did try G-Oil full synthetic once, but it didn't really extend out my interval more than 1000 miles, so the cost ratio wasn't there. Still running dyno in my SVO @ 116K miles, which always includes at least (1) track day and auto-x per season.

Now my new MINI is a different story, as it comes with its own monitoring capabilities and also LL synth oil. This will be my first run with a config like this.

 

Anyone else come across this situation? I noticed the same on my 2017 when I changed the oil today. I saw what looked like it could be an aluminum washer on mine, but it definitely wouldn't come off for me either. I stuck the copper one that came with the new filter on when I put the plug back on. The dealer will do the next one at 10k (I'm only at 6k now) so I'm sure it'll be fine until then even if it is double stacked.

I thought the little access hatches were a nice touch. Oil pan and filter together let out just under 5l. I put 4.5 back in hoping that it would yell at me about being low, but it read spot on. Since I know how much came out, I ended up putting the rest in anyways.

All in all, not too bad of an experience. Filter is way easier than an R56, that much is certain. My arm didn't get cut up at all, and no coolant leaked anywhere. . For lack of any other oil options with the LL-14 FE+ spec, I just went with the MINI 0w20 stuff. Got it from ECSTuning 👍

--Matt

 

Ok, please only answer these questions if you know for certain the correct answer....there's too much misinformation out there!

I changed my oil & filter for the first time in my 2015 F56 6-speed manual transmission JCW last weekend, and I added 5 Liters of new MINI Synthetic Oil.

1. With oil & filter change how much oil should be added....5 Liters or 5.25 Liters?

2. What is the capacity of the F56 JCW engine?

3. Does the oil cooler on the JCW increase the capacity from 5 Liters to 5.25 (or 5.3) Liters?

4. Is there a difference of an oil cooler on a 6 speed manual vs. the sport automatic transmission on the F56 JCW? In other words do both have an oil cooler that increases oil capacity over the 5 Liter capacity of the MCS, or just the automatic JCW?

5. Bottom line, do I need to add another 0.25 Liters or not?

Here's hoping someone knows the answers to these questions, or I will be forced to crawl to my dealer and ask for help! :-)

Thanks!

 

I put 5l in my 16 jcw manual. when I changed at 6k the monitor system was spot on. What is it reading Full?

 

Adding an oil cooler increases the oil capacity for sure. However, it only matters if that additional oil drains out. If your crancase is perfectly full when you change your oil, you can measure the amount you drain and refill with exactly that amount. This will also compensate for the fact that us home mechanics usually drain the oil with the car tilted, and we don't know exactly how much old oil remains. However, as home mechanics we know that the work is done properly, and we usually double the oil change frequency to 5K miles, so a little bit of older oil won't matter. No matter how you drain the oil, there will always be a little bit of old remaining. Nothing to worry about.

 

I didn't check it yet....next time I drive it I will do a check after warmed up. I will let you know, but my bet is it will be right where it's suppose to be. I wish I had measured what came out, but I wasn't concerned about the amount to put back in until I started reading about the 5.25 oil capacity on the JCW.


I had the car on my automotive lift though, and it was dead level and pretty much everything drained out unless something remains in an oil cooler, etc. Oil looked pretty clean for virgin oil from the factory, and under 900 miles.

 

Thanks (I agree)....see my response above.


If only the JCW had a dipstick! You can easily see where the oil level is to the naked eye...not rely on some electronic measurement to the nearest quart/liter! I'm sure 0.25 Liter won't make any difference one way or the other, but it would be nice to know "for sure" what is suppose to be put back in there! If anyone has had their JCW's oil changed at the dealer, what did they put in???? Let me guess, the invoice just says "changed oil & filter"! lol!

 

I put in exactly what I took out, plus a quarter liter for the soaking or so of the oil filter.

I figured I could not go wrong putting back what the factory put in (I changed mine early) and noted on the glove box the amount.

cheers,

 

So what did you measure & put in then? Thanks!

Ok, I read what you had posted last year above. You put in 4.73L & adding about 0.5L additional & the reading was perfect. You put in right about 5.25L then correct?

Of course, even if you measure it's hard to catch every drop & oil hangs on everything, so I'd expect to drain out less than what the specified capacity is, even with filter removal.

I don't want to overthink this but I am yet to see or hear anyone who knows what the protocol is for adding new oil after a drain & new filter install. Something so darn simple shouldn't be so hard to find out!!!!

 

Well, I changed mine at less 1500miles or so...

So, I figured I did not drive enough to burn any oil. Hence, if it left the factory that way then it must be the right amount.

 

I checked with my MINI dealer and was told the amount of oil for the JCW engine to use during an oil & filter change is right at about 5.5 Quarts or 5.25 Liters.

 

I added another 250ml today & drove my JCW then checked the oil & it was spot on the full mark....it was probably on full with only 5L in there too, but the JCW engine definitely requires 5.25L...based on my VIN the dealer called up the spec, & for refilling after oil & filter change it requires 5.25L. Good to finally know the correct amount!

 

I think I read somewhere that it'll read full until it's down enough to require a quart to top it off. So, no adding a pint here and there like we did with the N14 engine.
Also, Castrol lists three oils on their website for the F56. I got Castrol Edge European Formula from Advance Auto on sale for $5.50 a quart.

http://applications.castrol.com/oils...r-works-(2014-)