Hi,

First time poster here. I am wondering if there is a specific section of this fine mini site to find current invoice calculations etc for mini vehicles? I am heavily considering purchasing / leasing a mini (either a clubman s or a JCW clubman) and dont know specifics of mini invoice structure etc. (things like base MF for tier 1 credit, etc... I can calculate RVs from the dealer site offers so that part I got covered).

I am very familiar with BMWs structure (/e wave 2017all4, this is the same person from the 'fest), but looking get my ducks in a row before I start really looking into this.

Coming out of a 435 lease, looking to possibly buy instead of lease this time (but not definitive on that) and always really liked the look of the mini clubman specifically.

Thanks for any direction to threads etc that show invoice calcs etc. (@2017all4, I would love to get that referral you sent me previously in a PM if you are still up for that).

 

I'll send you a PM, jj.

 

Thanks 2017!

On a side note, am I actually calculating current lease RVs for a 2019 Mini Clubman at 64% for 36/10? Is that the normal range for this car or is it "extra supported" right now for the holiday (asking for opinion of course).

 

Residual on my 2017 (October 2016 deal date) was 65% for 3 years/10k per year. MINI residuals vary greatly among models, with JCW usually the least aggressive. Money Factors tend to track BMW, as it's the same lender. And, as with BMW, MF is often bumped by the dealer unless you insist on buy rate.

 

For June, MINI USA reported 4,146 vehicles sold, a decrease of 6 percent from the 4,410 sold in the same month a year ago. MINI sales in June were led by the MINI Countryman (1,471 vehicles). Year to date, MINI sales remain up 1.9 percent.

MINI Pre-Owned Vehicles
MINI Certified Pre-Owned sold 1,554 vehicles in June, an increase of 74.6 percent from June 2017.
Total MINI Pre-Owned sold 3,435 vehicles in June, an increase of 38.5 percent from June 2017.

 

Appreciate the information very much. I definitely have decisions to make, for sure. Thanks again!

 

Those who follow this thread know that many of us are generally skeptical regarding the value of most add-on extended service plans and tire and wheel protection and paint sealers and all the rest of the stuff that is usually overpriced and often presented in the Finance Office by a very skilled sales person pretending to be a "Finance Director" or whatever. He/she ain't your personal financial advisor -- he or she is there to add onto the sale and bump the gross profit for the dealership.

This isn't to say that there aren't situations where a customer's circumstances can make purchasing a specific add-on package a valuable choice. But the price has to be right and the value needs to be there and the customer needs to understand fully what they are and aren't getting for their money. Those are tough hills for the F&I office to climb if we're talking car deals, IMHO.

HOWEVER..., for me, having a high level computer tech only a phone call away, 24/7, along with the convenience of having a technician come to my home if my computer breaks, with the ability to fix or replace my machine at no additional cost to me, makes the hundred bucks a year I pay for this service worth it. I have yet to have a computer flat out break, but invariably I'm on the phone 3 or 4 times/year getting my laptop to run right or getting some kludgy update to install properly, or getting my wife's laptop to find the wireless modem.

So, when I make the call, say, on a Sunday afternoon, and I get connected directly to a high-level tech who communicates clearly, understands my issue, logs into my computer, and fixes the problem while I watch, and then follows up two days later with a phone call or an email just to confirm that all is well before he/she closes my case -- well, it's worth it to me... almost.

Last week I got the reminder email that my computer service contract was about to expire. I called the number and direct extension in the email and was immediately connected to a sales guy who was able to pull up my account instantly. The renewal for a year for the deeluxxx package I like was $109.

I did what I always do, which is ask a few questions to clarify exactly what is being offered, then, always being friendly and polite, I indicate I'm interested but a bit hesitant to pay the asking price.

What I did this time was to say that my computer is three years old now and I'm starting to wonder if for a few hundred bucks more maybe it's time to upgrade to a new machine instead of buying the extended service for another year. Just sort of thinking out loud into the phone, knowing that the person I'm talking to doesn't sell computers -- that's a different department. This guy makes his money selling the extended service plans.

So I say that I think I'll consider deferring the purchase of a new computer for another year if we can do better on the price for the plan.

After being placed on a brief hold the guy comes back on the line and offers me an additional 10% discount. Done.

Okay, all that for saving $10.90???? Yup. Gotta stay in top form, because one never knows when one might next be sitting across the desk from a car dealer. And in such a circumstance, it's good to be in practice. I'd hate to forget to tell a car salesman, "We're almost there. I really would prefer to do this today instead of waiting another year. I'm ready to do the deal right now if we can do better on price and get as close as you can to the numbers I proposed."

BTW, last time I calculated, $10.90 is 10% interest for a year on a $109 savings account balance. I don't see any offers of that rate from my bank. So I gotta get it where I can.

Whenever you can, doesn't hurt to ask. Even if it's just to stay in practice for those moments when it really matters.

 

Computer deal sounds great, although I've never seen one like that so tell us who provides that deal.

I don't see that same level of deal and service through a car dealer however. I can't think of anything they sell that would compare to the computer 24/7 tech support and home visit with replacement of computer or repair on the spot.

I did notice today however that MINI Portland is offering the following:

1 hour free diagnostic
Price Match Guarantee (details on website)
Fast Service Guarantee (website again)
3yr 50,000 miles parts/labor warranty above the MINI 2 year (website)

They really want to pull the business away from the indy shops now.

 

De** ProSupport is my computer deal.

And, in a sense, the 24 hr. roadside assist, and the flatbed collection of my MINI for service and the free loaner and the extensive warranty that comes with the new car are all definitely moving in the direction of total customer care. I've read that Lincoln and some other high line car brands are developing various subscription models that include a lot of concierge services. While not the same as the computer support I get from De**, we can see the direction things are heading.

Now, if I can figure out how to grind off another 10% from my next car deal just for asking...

 

 

Wonder what these sales figures will look like if and when you know who slaps another ill advised tariffs on German cars. The Art of The Steal.


test - Farmer in the Dell

 

Thanks for posting the latest sales data, All4. I've updated my worksheet and produced an updated 5-year sales charts.
It's finally heading up and to the right a bit, and the long term trend curve (3rd order poly) is bottoming out.

MINI NA – All cars sold, Aug 2013 through July 2018:



While the Countryman has sure taken a bite out of the Clubman, it looks like the Clubman's sales are stable now. Wasn't sure that would happen!

MINI NA Sales Chart, Model Breakdown, Aug 2013 through July 2018:

 

Bratling wins the award for most impressive chart of the year. Nice.

 

 

Thanks for sharing your story. Generally, deposits are refundable because you need to approve of the car once it arrives. But beyond that, it is generally a good idea to negotiate the framework of your deal prior to placing a firm order. Once the dealer has an order locked, the buyer loses a little leverage and has to work a bit harder.

The framework for a deal would be current best lease money factor or better, a clearly defined agreed out-the-door capital cost BEFORE any factory incentives, then reduce the cost further by current factory incentives with the understanding you get whichever is better, current or available incentives at time of delivery.

Because you have 3 dealers to compete for your business, a near-invoice deal, before incentives, should be possible. Go to Edmunds and build your car and learn the invoice for your build and negotiate for invoice less incentives, and see where it gets you. (I'm not saying an invoice deal is possible, but I wouldn't start any higher.) If they don't want to talk serious numbers, ask for your $ back, or shop the other 2 dealers.

But congratulations on your next MINI, whatever the final deal turns out to be.

 

I did the same thing in June but our dealer, Mini of Loveland, wanted $2500 non-refundable to put in an order. We agreed on a price and signed the rate sheet before the order went in. (We're not much for negotiating so we probably could have done better if we pushed it, but they took $1000 off the agreed price when they delivered so I think it worked out). I did wonder during those 7 weeks between order and delivery what would happen if I didn't want the car when it showed up for some reason, or if they had to raise the price (given current political discussion about auto tariffs) In the end everything worked out though.

 

Can you imagine the fallout from publicity if the dealer didn't refund a deposit on a car order? I assume some dealers might try and get away with that but I'd punish them pretty hard with a long campaign of social media blasting as needed.

Going into battle after giving a deposit is like boxing with a broken hand, you've lost a lot of your punching power. If it was me, I'd head down to the dealership now and tell them dealer X contacted you about a better price and you want your money back so you can get the car from them. See what that does for you.

Or just hang back and be happy with what you can get and enjoy the car.

* I have a very stellar credit rating but had to give a deposit for my wifes car because it was in her name only and her credit was never established as well as mine. So for you married folks, start early getting credit in separate transactions.

 

To clarify, we took delivery 3 weeks ago and didn't (nor did we plan to) negotiate after putting the non-refundable deposit down. The $1000 off they gave us on delivery was all them.

 

JasonMa
My response was aimed more at
MJO23DAN

 

Don't have any issues with the deposit. I'm just thinking worst case scenario. Our salesman is a straight shooter (which I like) so I didn't get any fluff when I came in and sat with him for the next 2 hours. Credit scores for my wife and I are in the 800s so we'll have some leverage. Especially with the info provided in this thread. Thank you.

 

 

 

Thanks for the tip. I'd like to put another scenario out there. So the build is supposed to be complete around mid October. Having to wait this long for the build, I understand I've already invested the time. What if I can't come to terms with the dealer that's received my vehicle? Would the 2 other dealerships help take delivery of my vehicle so I can work with them instead? How would that exactly work? I'd figure the current dealer would try to extract some fees out of me or other tactics as a "penalty" for dumping them. Sales tax at this dealer is 9.25%. The one I'd like to work with if this dealer doesn't come through has their sales tax at 7.75%. I know this wouldn't be the only reason but I'm sure I could negotiate a deal where sales tax figures can be worked in to save me some money. Thanks.

 

The dealer ordered the car, so it's their car until they sell it to you. It would not transfer to another dealership unless the dealers involved agreed with each other to do it.

If you can't come to terms with the dealer, walk away from it and talk to the other dealer. (Although if I were the other dealer and I knew about the situation, I would be hesitant to custom order a car for you – what if you walked away from me next? Then I get stuck with a custom car that might be hard to sell due to its unique configuration.)

In any case, until you take delivery and sign the paperwork, it's their car, and you are under no leg al obligation to buy it.

 

MJO23DAN - You might want to read up on Sales & Use taxes in whatever state/jurisdiction you live in. Usually doesn't matter where the dealer is, it is where the car ends up being registered that controls tax rates. Even if the dealer doesn't collect the correct amount of tax, usually you still owe it.