Although the US versions of the Mini do not come with or offer a factory hitch, the EU models do have that option. I sent an inquiry to the factory and found out that the American S model can handle towing up to 1,500 pounds and the JCW model can handle towing up to 2,000 pounds. You just have to install an aftermarket hitch and 4-pin connector (if trailer lights are required for light towing in your state. They are not required for light towing in all states.) The hitch is easy enough to install, but I found the 4-pin connector to be quite a pain. I also saw that there are no how-to guides online. I put together one on PowerPoint to upload here. Unfortunately, the file type is not supported, so I transferred it over to Word. You will need to zoom in to read the copy-and-paste from the original file type. It is now in 10 parts to meet file size requirements. Please review and enjoy.

 

Did a quick smoosh of all your word docs into a PDF so it would fit in one file. Didn't mess with the formatting

 

@siriuszero,


Thank you for the smoosh. Much appreciated.

 

Thank you for posting. However, I installed an Outmotoring hitch and wiring harness in the summer, and the wiring was very straight forward. The hitch involved removing the bumper cover and was very difficult. The Outmotoring directions for the wiring were generally accurate, but they had some wire colors wrong (or left blanks). Other than tracing wires and figuring it all out, it was straightforward. I did it all from inside the car. I also found a grommet in the right side that was ideal for running the wires under the car. I posted the correct wiring colors in the link below. I've had the hitch on my car since July or August and have used it extensively.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lubman-18.html

http://www.minif56.com/forum/825-min...tml#post569410

 

Hello JohnnyQuest. I saw your post before I installed my 4 pin connector. I elected to go with the E-trailer hitch instead of the OEM trailer hitch. The JCW Clubman is rated to tow up to 2,000 pounds, but the OEM hitch is only rated to 1,500 pounds. The E-trailer hitch is rated to 2,000 pounds, so it will let me maximize the capabilities of the JCW. The posts between you and tikerdude stating the difficulties you had with the install basically cemented my decision before purchase. They were extremely helpful.

The E-trailer hitch was also quite easy to install because it does not involve removing the bumper cover and I did not have to cut anything. It fit like a glove around the modified muffler and differential of the JCW. If I had removed the bumper cover, I probably would have connected all of the wires behind the bumper (except the reverse lights) since I would already have had ready access to the tail light wires right there. I already had to remove the drain plugs to install the carriage bolts which gave me access to the undercarriage, so I decided not to cut the grommet like you did. I did take your advice and go back to seal around my carriage bolts with high temperature silicone just to make sure everything is water tight.

Regarding the wire colors, Mini uses different wiring colors for every build based on what wiring they have in stock at the factory. That is probably why the OEM instructions were wrong. Here are the colors on my build...

left turn: white with blue stripe
right turn: white with yellow stripe
reverse: white with grey stripe (I think the same as yours)
brake: black with purple spiral stripe

I did not write the colors in my instructions because I found out they change every time. Instead, I decided to included locations that should always be the same on every F54.

 

I agree with you on the e-trailer option. Had that been available when I installed mine, I think I would have gone that route too. Interesting on the changing of the wire colors. I have not heard of that and it seems strange. I can't imagine why the wiring harness would not be a standard part with standard colors. I could see the harness varying somewhat among models.

Regardless, the more information we have, the better. So people installing a hitch will have an easier time. Thanks for the information.

 

I looked at my notes. I think you need to double check that your wires work properly. The brake lights and tail lights operate differently depending on whether you have the barn doors opened or closed. You need to check that they operate properly with the doors closed. In fact, you can't test the wires with the doors open. That's why I had to trace the wires to the harness and connect them all to the harness with the doors closed. All my connections are on the right side with the exception of the left turn signal. I connected my power there too. If I were to do the whole wiring again, I think I could do it in less than 1 hour without drilling any holes. Your method may indeed work, but I suggest that you fully test the operation with the doors closed. Also, make sure you test it in all conditions: turn signals on with and without brakes and with and without headlights, etc.

 

Can I reopen an oldish thread?

pfcstuck: I'm doing an eTrailer hitch too. I've done two of MiniDoMore's made-for-Cooper hidden hitches before, but I'm getting tired of removing car body parts to install the hitch. (I'm getting older.) So the eTrailer C11451 hitch is much easier.

I like eTrailer's inductive connection wiring harness, so I don't have to even pierce the original wires. (119250KIT)

I was hoping to connect the power to the 12V plug in the hatch area (aka cigarette lighter), as MiniDoMore's kits do, including the 2 I did in the past. But apparently the "black-box" controller part of the inductive wiring kit requires always-on power, so that it doesn't forget what you've taught it. I guess it wouldn't be any fun to have to re-teach it after every pit stop on a trip.

My QUESTION: your detailed instructions above don't mention disconnecting either the positive or the negative battery cable from the CAR ITSELF. I don't really want to disconnect those, and have to reprogram my car to get it to run again. You left the battery connected, and you lived to tell about it??

Any safety tips for me, while working around the battery?


PS Thanks for the great pics!
Deb

 

Hi, I don't think it's necessary to disconnect the battery. I've done a reasonable amount of electrical work and I don't disconnect the battery unless I'm playing with high voltage like changing a starter motor. Or If I'm working around the engine and something could turn and slice a finger off (like changing belts), I'd disconnect the battery for sure. But I've installed radar detectors in about 15 cars including my current 3, and done a lot of wiring to my motorcycles over the years and never disconnect the battery.

Also, here's a tip I discovered. The side bolsters of the rear seat are just held in by one clip. You can disconnect them by sliding a finger behind them and pressing down the plastic tab. You may be able to do all the trailer wiring from there. I removed the whole rear trim when I did mine, and discovered this afterwards. With your noninvasive system, you may be able to access all the wires you need from the bolster area. My system contains a fuse. I placed the fuse so it's accessible under the bolster. If I ever blow a fuse (easy to do with a trailer), I just have to pop off a bolster and replace the fuse.

 

Terrific suggestion!

I'm only half done -- it got too dark & too close to bedtime -- so I haven't put the fuse in and tested yet. But it seems great. I'll have to see if I got the right wires, cuz there seemed to be a couple that could match the colors listed above.

My wire run to the front is dreadful, but it'll satisfy me. I went across the back of the folded down back seats (possibly in the not a spare tire area; will look and tie them down later) to the drivers side back seat bolster, and under the plastic floor molding all the way up to the drivers footrest, up to the bottom of the dash -- and then got stumped. So I'm running 6" or so visibly, out the left middle of the dash side, visibly through the door jam, and then under something and under the hood there (near mirror).

Question: anybody know the spec for the screw and washers that hold down the battery hiding shield? I dropped one pair. :( I can ask the parts dept at my MINI dealer, but theirs are probably rather expensive screws and washers!

I also knocked into the void (of the engine area) one roughly 1" lightly fitted hole cover, way up under my steering wheel foot well. It didn't prove to go anywhere useful (that I could tell) so now I plan to replace it, from the other side than it was originally mounted. I'm hoping that both this 1" cover and the lost screw eventually fall out, harmlessly.

 

I'm in the process of figuring out the wiring options for the same Technosha system in my 2017 Clubman S All4.

The screw and washer I found on the battery cover were M5 (8mm hex head) sheet metal screw with a 21.8mm dia. washer and ~20mm in length.

I'm also stumped with trying to find a good pass-thru point in the firewall to the engine compartment. In another post I found someone who went around the front wheel well and exited by the headlight .... still not optimum. There appears to be a plastic cap in the vicinity of the battery that I have yet to find .... does anyone have photos of that?

 

I didn't run my power to the battery. I don't understand why you would. If you don't want to tap into a wire in the rear cargo area (as I did), then why not just tap into the fuse box? (behind the glove box). There are many unused fuses (see photo). I ran my radar detector into the fuse box. There are several unused fuses that are activated by the key and some that are always hot.

 

What was required to access the back of the fuse box? I didn't feel like taking things apart, especially after your great suggestion to find all the needed wires behind the bolsters by the windows.

 

Fuse box is behind a flap in the back of the glove box. Taking all the "stuff" out of your glove box is the hardest part. :-)

No tools required (as long at you don't consider opposable thumbs tools - your dog may have a problem).

 

Did you just connect to the front of the fuse box, where the fuses go in?? Or did you have to take it out, to attach to the back where the rest of the wires (presumably) are?

And how did you decide which fuses were already "always on"? (or at least .... which one did you pick; I'll use the same one!) (If I get around to redoing it, someday)

 

Yikes! Put those tools down!

This is really easy. Buy this (many varieties, and your local car parts place will have them): https://www.walmart.com/ip/2-Add-A-C...&wl13=&veh=sem

Then get one of these:https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Just touch the tester to one fuse at a time to see what is hot with and without the key. (Note that even with the key off, they all stay hot for about 30 seconds until the car fully shuts off.)

This should be very, very easy. (You could probably do it even without opposable thumbs )

 

Thanks -- I'll check it out!

 

Thanks JohnnyQuest!
As they say, one (or two) picture is worth a thousand words. I hadn't gotten to the fuse box yet and was musing about why I found no mention of it in the library of posts ....
I've used the fuse box for radar detectors, and non-OEM radio systems in my first 2 cars ('73 Ford Maverick, '83 Mitsubishi Starion) .... I hate to say it but those were far more primitive and the electrical systems had a lot of margin built in!
I'll try to find that 'always on' circuit for the Tekonsha system and post photos, along with the control unit installation I have planned behind the bolster using that cable bundle!
My next car-tinkering project is set!

 

I was given a full guide with my towbar on how to fit and where to run electrics. Do you need a copy?

When I installed the fuses there is an additional fuse box which adds on

 

The wiring colors posted in this thread were very helpful to me.

But that's a good question: if you are attaching it to the fusebox, do you install or throw away the tiny inline fusebox sent with the wiring kit?

 

Yes plz! If you could post here as a PDF (including details on which supplier you got the wiring kit from) that would be awesome. I don't have a wiring kit yet, so would love to hear the pros/cons of the various systems out there.

I just fitted the Curt hitch at the weekend. Took about an hour with the back end up on mini-ramps. Used a dremel to enlarge the holes for the reverse-fish-wire technique, which worked like a charm. I slathered everything with silicone sealant prior to assembly, including the face of the hitch that mates up to the chassis. The most difficult part was avoiding getting silicone all over the place during the final positioning and bolting down! Another generous dollop of silicone all over the bolts and any holes/joints, should stop the salt from doing too much damage.

 

I will post the BMW guide. I used the official BMW control unit and coded it in to mine

Works very well be as there was modules there was a lot of wiring but it works perfectly with the reversing camera and the whole car

 

You will need to install a fuse. The one that comes with the kit (assuming you got one with your kit) may not be the correct size. Your hitch wiring kit should include a fuse. Use that (or one the same amperage) in the piggy back connector.

 

For wiring the camera itself (which mounts to the license plate frame), I drilled into the casing on one of the lights immediately above it. That gets you into the bumper cover, and from there I was able to go around the heat shields to the grommet in the well in the lower left of the trunk, to get inside the car. Lots of silicone to seal everything up.

So far it's working great. I actually bought this for the dashcam, so the backup cam is a bonus. The dashcam records on a continuous loop to an SD card, simple screen tap to protect/save a clip if anything happens. Also can record after the car is turned off, with a motion sensor, in case of parking lot hit & run dings. Considering the tech-package with the backup cam is like a $1000 add on when you purchase the car, I'd say $75 is a pretty good deal! (yadda yadda, no affiliation/commercial conflict-of-interest etc).

 

I am getting ready to install the Outmotoring Hitch. I read and re-read this thread multiple times and hoping I can get a few suggestions. If anyone can help me with the things to watch out for, it would really be helpful. Does it help to do the wiring harness while installing the hitch with the bumper cover off or it does not matter? I do not have a 12v adapter in the boot area, so what is the best way to find the 12v wire? Has anyone found a better way to create a access trim in the bumper other than the way described in the install manual? I also have a foot access open sensor on the car and I was hoping to do a better job than what is described in the manual. Any suggestions with pictures welcome. Thanks in advance.

2019, JCW Clubman.