North American Motoring - R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)

R50/R53 R53 DME Module Reflash for P0128

BRG — Wed, 13 May 2026 16:41:35 GMT

I am the original owner of a 2005 R53 hardtop and now having difficulty with a P0128 issue. The cooling system and all its components are in good working order except it is taking a long time to warm up and then there is rapid cool down when driving.

Its not the thermostat as I have experimented with three and tested them all and been hyper aware of the installation procedure. By the way there are no O.E.M.thermostats because there is a factory back order here and in Germany so I am using one of the aftermarket units suggested by the dealer.

The professional shop I use says there is a 2006 bulletin recalling the R53 for a Reflash of the DME module to help relax some of the stringent parameters however, I can find no such bulletin and was wondering if any of you know about it ?

Even if it exists, what could it possibly improve ? It cannot change the time on my stop watch and the temperature readings of my scan tool. When its 15 C outside and it takes the engine 24 minutes to reach thermostat opening temperature of 91 C, there is nothing a new program can do to change that. There are ways to turn off the engine light and maybe have the DME Module ignore the settings for P0128 however, that still leaves the engine with a warm up problem, not to mention poor emissions and fuel efficiency, etc.

If there are any MINI Techs on this forum or users with first hand experience with p0128 and the DME Reflash, please let us know.
Thank you

R50/R53 Single cluster ( Tach only ) and Dual cluster ( Tach and Speedo)

Mforce — Tue, 12 May 2026 23:45:37 GMT

My R53 uses single cluster tach on steering wheel and default regular speedo on center console it came stock like this from factory.

Now I want to change my single cluster because the front lens is faded already meaning it's not clear. There's nothing wrong with the cluster it works it's just not clear.

Here are my questions:

1. Can I change this from single to Dual Cluster ( speedo and tach ) without changing the center console speedo. If so do I need to code it?

2. Now if I am going to buy a used single cluster or say buy a brand new one from MINI, do I need to have MINI program this? I am just replacing my existing single cluster tach with the same tach.

I've read some threads here but no one ever confirmed it will work or not.

Thank you.

R50/R53 ECU reprogram or service qustion

mcart5 — Tue, 12 May 2026 20:13:36 GMT

I have had my R53 layed up (2 mo.) to change out the supercharger, replace the radiator/water pump, all cooling lines. My question is do I need to reprogram ECU or just initiate the maintenance mode before starting it up.

Regards,

Keith

R50/R53 OEM Fuel Pump "rebuild"?

Here2Go — Sun, 10 May 2026 00:00:20 GMT

Has anyone found a parts source for replacing the OEM internal fuel pump?
Not the whole assembly but the actual pump itself.

Once again I'm finding myself saving and amassing a collection of OEM parts replaced from my 04 R53.
As an example; I'm holding onto my OEM CV axles as I hope to rebuild them someday....
I'm hoping to possibly rebuild or replace the pump mechanism/"motor" if possible from my old OEM fuel pump rather than just throwing it away. But if it's junk, then it's junk. ...and no reason to hold onto it...
Thanks.

R50/R53 Nothing bad ever happens to me - FUEL PUMP!

Here2Go — Fri, 08 May 2026 19:11:22 GMT

I'm currently broke down in my '04 R53, in a less than savory part of downtown. 40 miles from "home".
At a 1/4 tank; The Mini started to sputter and stall.
With traffic being too loud; I cannot hear/tell if my fuel pump is running. But It appears that my 22y/o fuel pump finally went out. I pulled the intercooler and expelled all the fuel from the fuel rail at the shader. Tried to start the car again, re-checked the fuel rail for any fuel but nothing but air came out. I swapped the fan relay with the fuel pump relay to no avail. Not certain that the fuel pump relay is the problem. My back seat is packed with work gear So it's probably not the best surroundings to unload my Mini in this particular environment...

2wo Questions:
1_Is there another fuse that might be blown for the fuel pump?
2_The closest auto part store is Auto Zone/ 8 miles away.
Is a Dorman fuel pump a viable option to put in these cars?

R50/R53 Where does this relay go?

valvashon — Wed, 06 May 2026 17:53:29 GMT

I have been trying lots of things to try and solve the no start/error codes with my wife's R50. Among them was swapping the ECU and immobilizer with my car and sending hers out to be diagnosed. None of that was necesary but in the process I have moved or removed this relay on a small metal plate from the area where it should live above/near the immobilizer box and the fused panel on the (U.S.) driver's side. Looks factory and looks like it should be held on somewhere with a bolt on that threaded stud but I'm at a loss as to how it should fit in this lower dash area. I could look at my car but it's probably out of place in that one too.

Thanks in advance.

Val

R50/R53 Clutch pedal was on the floor, couldn't get out of gear

BMH94 — Mon, 04 May 2026 18:12:55 GMT

Just as the title states. I couldn't get out of gear. Noticed clutch pedal was on the floor. Turned the car off. Brought the clutch pedal back up with my hand. After that, it was fine for a little bit. I looked at the clutch master and slave cylinder. No external leaks from either one of them. Clutch pedal is dry. No clutch slipping. Or unusual sounds. What should I do from here?

2003 r53

R50/R53 R53 Main Electrical Power Issue

chuckactor — Thu, 30 Apr 2026 16:58:56 GMT

Weird one here. I have a 2003 R53. Parked it the other day and then came back out and the car was totally dead (no power, no dome lights etc). The car has a new battery. When I checked the voltage at the battery, I got 12.4V. When I checked it at the + terminal in the engine compartment I got 3.4V. The main fuse in the trunk shows continuity.

Any known issues or ideas why I would all of a sudden see a 9v loss between the battery and the positive jump terminal in the engine bay? Any connections in the main power wire? I assume one main hot wire goes to terminal and then the starter and the second goes through the main fuse to the fuse box.

Anyone have a schematic they can share or a link to one?

Thanks!
Chuck

R50/R53 Help troubleshooting codes

Minor Threat — Mon, 27 Apr 2026 16:45:24 GMT

Can anyone point me in a direction to troubleshoot these codes on my '03 MCS? All four came up simultaneously, so I'm unsure if all the sensors failed: PO0445, PO0340, PO0037, PO0031. Is there a fuse with all of these in common or another common intersection that would trip all of them?

R50/R53 My 3D Printed Badge

ED955S — Sat, 25 Apr 2026 18:25:49 GMT

3D printed R53 badge project for my 2004 MCS. It's been many years that I have not done any for my car.

3D printed R53 badge

3D Printed 'R53'

R50/R53 65K Mini has intake valve leak

R53miniUK — Sat, 25 Apr 2026 08:05:10 GMT

Im not a mechanic but i have been learning, i did a compression test and a leak down test and found that cylinder 4 has zero pressure and the air is leaking out the intake port on the supercharger.
I have assumed this means the valves are not sealing, I haven't taken the head off yet im learning the process. can i get 2 new valves and do the lapping thing?
or should i remove the head and take it to a shop (im in the UK if anybody can recommend a place)
Thanks any extra advice is appreciated.

R50/R53 Should I make a wiring diagram with the custom wiring I do?

ghostwrench — Sat, 25 Apr 2026 02:15:51 GMT

I finally got around to installing the AFR gauge I've had for a few years.

I had installed my boost gauge and mechanical water temperature gauge a couple of years ago and then I did some wiring for the lighting of those gauges where I used a relay to power the gauge lighting when the parking lights come on. This AFR gauge has LED lighting and it is lit at all times but I've found at night, it's a bit bright so I bought a dimmer switch to wire in as well.

It got me to thinking: although I have no intentions of ever selling my car or having anyone but me ever work on it, should I make a wiring diagram for how I've wired the car? It's really basic electrical, so I cannot imagine I would ever have trouble remembering what I've done and I think someone with basic electrical circuit knowledge could trace wires and figure out where I hid the relay and power distribution bar. Besides, it's a Mini Cooper, there isn't very much car in which this stuff can get lost. :razz:

What wisdom does the forum have to impart on me about this subject?

R50/R53 Crank Pully PSA - Don't reuse the bolt

citycar — Tue, 21 Apr 2026 15:31:04 GMT

I recently did the timing chain and guides about a month ago.
While driving, the belt started making a horrible squealing noise. I opened the hood and saw the harmonic balancer rattling around. When stopped, it looked like this, not too abnormal but seemed a bit too prominent:

I bought an ATI super damper immediately, thinking the pulley had separated (a known and common issue) and I got a tow home.
I first tried to remove the belt so I could drive home. I had previously used the method of a big crowbar and a bolt or pin stuck into one of the holes on the tensioner. I didn't have the right size bolt on hand, so I had been carrying a long crowbar in the trunk for nothing.
When I took the car apart, I saw the crank pulley was not separated. Instead it had become loose, the bolt backed out about 3/8". When I did the timing chain, I reused the original crank bolt and did not apply loctite. I torqued with an impact gun instead of the proper way, because it was difficult to keep the engine from turning.
While the crank pulley was loose, it had gouged the crankshaft nose, as well as the inside of the crank pulley. This may have been going on for a while before the belt started squealing (and almost fell off).
The crank pulley had burrs and high spots, so when I tried to force the pulley on it got stuck. FYI - A 3 jaw puller (the $25 kit from harbor freight) can remove this easily, shown below. Use the ATI insertion bolt to push off of.

Due to the burrs and high spots, the crankshaft nose needed to be sanded down slightly to allow the new ATI superdamper pulley to fit. I did this by running the car with the belt and pulley off, and carefully holding 150, 220, 500 grit sandpaper up to the spinning crank nose. Do not take too much, just deburr, the crank pulley is supposed to be a very tight fit requiring heating up the pulley to 200 degrees.
To undo the crank bolt (without a full set of the proper tools), a 15mil 1/2" socket, with long breaker bar can be hung off the bolt towards the right, pressing up against frame/bumper. Then crank the motor with the spark plug leads fully removed and taped (to prevent errant sparks). Or use an impact gun. The starter motor will probably be more powerful though. The pulley spins counterclockwise.
To properly torque the crank bolt, have only the right side of the car up in the air, left front wheel must be on the ground. The car should be in 5th gear. Install the lug bolts just 1 or 2 full turns. Put a jack handle or (very) long breaker bar between the lug bolts, so it will get wedged in between the lug bolts and the end of the bar will push on the ground.

Lessons learned:
Don't mess around with the crank pulley bolt. At the very least, reapply blue loctite.
Don't count on the crowbar method to change your pulley on the side of the road. The $40 amazon belt detensioner tool is worth keeping in your trunk.
It's worth having the equipment to take the wheel and fender liner off to remove/replace the belt. Probably worth keeping spares of those plastic fender liner clips.
Starter motor method of removing the crank bolt can be sketchy but is a useful trick to know.

R50/R53 My notes on DIY early R53 key replacement

citycar — Tue, 21 Apr 2026 01:52:59 GMT

I have seen the threads where the dealer asks a lot of money for replacement keys. If that was a simple transaction, that would be best. Now, I have read the dealers do not carry early R53 keys. Mine is a 2004 R53, build date 12/16/03. It has the "2-button" remote. I will document my progress with key cutting, programming the immobilizer transponder chip, and the remote.

First, selecting a key to buy. There are many on ebay, aliexpress, and others that all look the same, but they are not exactly.

The original key:

Original key blade, circuit board, shell halves including rfid chip, and roll pin. The buttons have broken and fallen out and I've covered the outside of the shell with adhesive-backed vinyl.
The original RFID chip (the 5-sided gray shape inside the left key half) is labeled PCF7930AS. I believe the term "ID73" is used to identify this specific one, but this may be incorrect. Some people accidentally throw this out, this is needed to start your car. The silver rectangular component above the battery on the PCB has "KYOCERA 315K" written on it. I believe this is the crystal designating the remote's frequency, in the US supposedly we universally use 315MHz. I believe UK uses 433MHz

The more common style of aftermarket shell (2 versions):

Shells ordered from 2 different sellers on AliExpress. Each was about $4. On the left, close to the original. On the right, allows the indicator LED to shine through which is a useful feature. Both attach the key blade differently, the roll pin attaches the key to a small plastic insert that clips into the end of the key handle. It's a less stable design. On one of them, the key already "wobbles" and I've only just put it together. Also note the base of the key blade has a 1/2 millimeter cut in 5 mm of it, so the end is thinner. The blade might not swap into other shells as easily. Mini badge for the one on the left must be bought separately, and are sold on size: will be listed as "mini badge 22mm".

The true identical copy of the original shell (probably the one you want):

Sold by JingYuQin YanKey. I believe this is direct from the manufacturer as the front of the PCB says "JYQ" on it. This has to be made from the same exact mold as the original, although it also doesn't come with a mini badge. The key blade attaches the exact same way. This version is only sold together with the PCB and RFID immobilizer chip (a PCF 7931). All together was $26. ~~I could not find it available as just an empty shell.~~ EDIT: Search "JingYuChin Mini Key Shell" - you'll find just the shell for around $4.

Second, how do you get into your key and disassemble to swap parts?

Insert a flathead screwdriver into the recess under the keyring hole, and pry off the back cover.
Gently bend outwards one of the two clips on the sides that hold the remote PCB in, and lever out the PCB
Bend the clip holding the immobilizer chip in, and pry the chip out with a small screwdriver
Remove the roll pin by destructively drilling out the plastic on the front shell and pushing it through, or by grabbing the inside of the roll pin with precisely sized screwdriver tip or other small pointy tool, spinning it as you pull it out far enough to be removed with pliers.
If your original key's buttons are broken off or not working, the button components themselves can be desoldered, removed, and replaced with a 3x6x2.5 mm push button microswitch. I bought a reel of 50 on AliExpress for $2.

Third, cutting

I used a local locksmith advertising they do automotive keys. It was helpful that I had the blanks on hand, and had the metal part of the key removed from the plastic (roll pins removed).
Don't show up in person, call first. The locksmith may just as easily come to you.
It cost $65 per key blank. I had 3 done. I believe this is called the ilco HU92 style key blank, just like BMWs of the same era (though those seem to use different immobilizer chips)
Don't use one of the switchblade style key fobs for sale for mini online; they do not fit into the door lock.
The process looks like a CNC mill, much more sophisticated than a hardware store cutter for house keys
I saw a service on ebay offering cutting a new blank from a picture of your key, charging $55, and sending you the new shell with cut key blade. They are in Taiwan. No clue which shell they use, probably the cheaper ones. Still, if it works, cheaper than the locksmith I used, and you don't need to leave home.

Fourth, programming

I have yet to sort this out. Both the immobilizer and the remote need to be programmed in different processes.
I have bought a Foxwell NT530 Plus BMW scanner for $160 and hope it will program at least the immobilizers.
Some have reported success with the older and cheaper Foxwell NT510 Plus.
I will report back here with results.

What to do with your trashed old key shell?

I covered the face with the broken buttons with adhesive-backed vinyl "grip tape". I bought a sheet on ebay for another project and cut it to size.
I removed the PCB to swap into one of the above replacement shells
I filled in the area where the PCB was with 1/8 inch of epoxy, so the button holes wouldn't feel like holes through the adhesive vinyl. (Below, far right)
This created a remote-less key, which Mini themselves used to sell, unfortunately even theirs was same size as the key with remote.
- For a remote-less key, one could try a small 2000-2006 BMW X5 transponder key, as below. Looks like the appropriate (ID73?) immobilizer chip may fit, but the blade can't be swapped and this blade while also a HU92 has an extra longitudinal cut in it.

R50/R53 Radio help

doherty80 — Sat, 18 Apr 2026 21:19:06 GMT

I have no idea what the guy before me did. I have been trying to find diagrams and cross match on here..but I think I may need to gut the whole radio system....this is the set up. A jvc head unit that does not come on....and wiring in the door that makes me concerned for fires. I opened the door when doing window regulator. If I were to run new power from the fuse box which fuse is the radio? Could I just run new wire from there to head unit and too all the speakers? I want to make as easy as possible but seeing this rats nest I dont know where to start...