North American Motoring - R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)

R56 Window slow to raise

SuperDave010 — Fri, 15 May 2026 01:29:36 GMT

The passenger side window in my R56 has been slow to rise for a while now (ever since it sat unused for about four years - it was fine before that). I took the door panel off and found that some of the grease on the guide posts was dried up, so I cleaned it all off and added new white lithium grease. Nothing else was amiss. I put it all back together, and if anything it seems even slower now - a couple times since reassembly, it's stopped raising and gone back down mid-cycle. I've been able to get it closed by holding the button down, but it's definitely not an improvement over before.

Any suggestions? Maybe I've used the wrong sort if grease? Or the motor is just slowly going back and will eventually fail completely? Any suggestions appreciated.

R56 Coolant Leak issue?

genik — Thu, 14 May 2026 21:26:14 GMT

Its 2-3 days now, that ive noticed a large leak stain (its not oil) in the ground under the hood. Specifically its located under the bonet, in the CoDriver's side. Also when returning home, i got this icon in red color and i could hea -while driving- the car, the fan working continuously. Any ideas what to expect?

R58 Aftermarket seat install help

MiniManAdam — Tue, 12 May 2026 09:30:59 GMT

I'm about to install aftermarket seats into my 13' r58 and I'm doing a jcw Recaro seat clone with my own taste. I'm gonna be adding Recaro and jcw emblems/patches on the seats lolol.
I'm wondering what exactly needs resistors so that I don't have any error lights illuminated anywhere..
do BOTH oem seats have occupancy sensors and airbags ?
aaaand , can i just bolt on the oem seatbelt and ignitor onto the seatbracket and just plug that back in so that the seatbelt retains its firing crash/lock feature? I did that in my r53 and it worked very well but idk about r56/r58..
aaaaaaaaaaaaand for the airbag and occupancy sensor delete , is the thing I linked the correct thing to delete those so I don't have any error lights ???

https://ebay.us/m/aNKooe

R56 Front end oil seal

Seaswood — Mon, 11 May 2026 22:24:17 GMT

Front end oil seal Mini with installer no lubricant appears to be leaking?
did not set proud or inset just at edge.
I remember someone mentioned need to turn engine after install?
same wheel bearing was stuck so engine was not run for awhile if that matters.

R56 2013 R56S Stall While Driving But Fine While In Idle

freakonforfatty1 — Sun, 10 May 2026 19:00:29 GMT

Evening all,
I have a 2013 r56S with 74k miles which idles fine (I let it warm up for 20 mins) turned it off, started again. But if I take it for a ride, the engine eventually starts shaking and dies. I have to let it cool for a few hours before I'm able to re-start it, otherwise, it just cranks. So far I have replaced the ignition coils, spark plugs, O2 sensors, oil filter and oil, drained the coolant, replace the air filter and cleaned the exhaust solenoid, yet the problem persists. My next step will be to clean the MAFS and the intake solenoid. I should mention that I also replaced the HPFP (Bosch brand) and the fuel filter, but that was almost 2 yrs ago and the car had not been moved since, due to the problems starting. A few days ago, after I was done with the tune up, I noticed the car had only 2 bars of gas, so I added a couple of gallons, the car started, I drove to the gas station, filled up, drove a few streets, engine shook an died and each time, it goes into limp mode (half engine sign) and when I clear it, I can hear a kind of click coming from the engine bay.

I should mention that when I changed the plugs, they were extremely black, the oil was black as well. But now it all is new after the tune up. I was going to add Redline to clean the carbon, but I can't, because I'm afraid the car will die on me not even half way. Also, jut now, I turned it back on, it started fine, but it failed to maintain proper RPM while in idle, so it dies.

Any suggestions will greatly appreciated.

Thank you all and happy mother's day.

R56 Flutter while under load / Vacuum leak?

WaFFlz — Sat, 09 May 2026 14:38:32 GMT

Hello.

R56 MCS 2009 N14

First of all, absolutely no related codes are present... The car DOES sometimes go into limp mode, but not every time. All hoses leading to the turbo, air intake, cabin vent, and the hoses on the passenger side of the car (Left hand drive) are tight and secured.
The car drives absolutely fine, but the moment that boost would normally kick in, you can sort of "feel" and absolutely hear, the turbo/boost flutter, it technically has boost, but the moment you try to step on the gas, it just flutters so it gains no power. If you slowly speed up with the car, it will go as fast as you'd like, but the boost is not there. I have a short video that might help out. Reminder, this ONLY happens under load... You cannot repeat this while "driving" on the lift, this has been attempted, theres no good way to be up under the hood while its happening.

It had no issues, no air leaks, perfect boost until it was parked last year in September, it was parked most of the time indoors, but always on concrete the entire winter. Took it apart to re-do the subframe, and replace/upgrade bushings, install coilovers etc, now when its back together were seeing this air leak. :(

- Upgraded Wagner intercooler installed (Stole it off the 2008 MCS), did not test the 2008 beforehand, it had a misfire on cylinder 2 which wasn't diagnosed, so wasn't running properly beforehand unfortunately.
- Milltek cat-less stainless steel exhaust system, though probably irrelevant for this problem.
- Milltek cat-less downpipe
(The car ran fine with these upgrades for 5-6 months while driving regularly last year)

I have another R56 which is an 2008 MCS, and the same problem occurs, on that car I did have an Unmetered air code that I could not get rid of for the longest time, I do believe replacing the MAP sensor on that car did alleviate the code, but the boost/vacuum leak was still occurring.

Thank you!

EDIT: I uploaded the video to youtube instead of sharing the video file.

Attached Files

IMG_2673.mov (1.69 MB)

R56 No Crank/Start Diagnosis

WaFFlz — Fri, 08 May 2026 18:50:31 GMT

Hello.

I am getting no crank/start in my R56 MCS 2009 Non-LCI, N14. The car has been parked since around September of last year, just got it going again about a week ago after having diagnosed a no crank/start problem, and finding out it was a bad ground signal. I moved around the engine block ground strap and this fixed the issue the first time (went from a 3V signal to block -> 12V). It was test driven maybe 5 times, and now I am back to the same problem again, but the ground signal to block is fine, also tried moving it around again just in case.

Interior lights do come on, and when hitting the start button a large audible click is heard... Not every single time, but give it a few minutes and try it again, and the click is heard again.

A lot of work has been done to this car since it was driven regularly last year, but the car has started and been driven a bit SINCE this work was done… some of the potentially relevant work done: New Alternator, Oil Filter Housing, Battery (still have the old one, tried both)

I will outline below what I have tried.

Fault code:
CAS/EWS: A0B4 - Engine Starter Operation
(No other relevant codes are present at this time, though we were getting a “No BSM Message from Generator” code before, do not remember the code, this is gone now)

- Bench tested starter, works fine.

- 12V being received from CAS module through white signal plug when pressing start.

- Engine block/starter should be properly grounded now, getting 12V reading from POS battery terminal to engine block/starter

- Removed and visually inspected CAS module, all pins are present and wires look healthy, I know this one was a long shot, since I am not sure how to test this on the bench. Also tested the Omron relay on the CAS, clicks when presented with 5v across the coil pins.

-Engine Comp fuses intact

What do you guys suggest I do next? I suspect the CAS module is fried, because of all the attempts to start while not being properly grounded, finally took its toll on the CAS. Really hoping this isn’t the case as it’s very expensive to replace the CAS!

I can post pictures or videos this weekend if needed.

Thank you!

R56 Fan doesn't run after turning car off

SuperDave010 — Thu, 07 May 2026 21:47:28 GMT

I've noticed recently that my radiator fan isn't staying on after I turn the car off. I tested it by turning the A/C up to max while sitting, and it does run then, and I haven't had any issues with overheating. I've done some searching, and haven't found anything specifically on this issue - any thoughts?

R56 P0128 Help

hndle — Tue, 05 May 2026 00:57:55 GMT

Hi All
I have had a long history with this code, I have replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor, and the fan will run even one occasion when I only drove a mile and a half. This code occurs whenever the fan runs after I drive the car and shut it off. Up 'til now, I never hang around to see how long it will run. I clear the code and the fan shuts off. My scanner real-time data temps report low, e.g. 164, 139...The code shows up in Bimmerlink, and a cheap plug-in reader with an LCD screen (which is faster). I was vacillating whether to replace the thermostat myself or take it in.
I won't go into granular detail, but A buddy convinced me to take it to a reputable shop, which I did, and they told me that they scanned it and could not find anything wrong with the car. The Manager drove the car, then had one of his Tech's drive it. Their shop is fully equipped with factory diagnostics.
What brings me to the forum today is to ask for folks to chime in. I'm not disputing the shop, It's the suspension of disbelief. I don't get a CEL when this happens.
I expect you will have questions. My buddy said forget about the code. Drive it, shut it off and hang out and see how long the fan runs. My concern is the first time this started, it flattened the battery bc I did a scan and went in and researched it while the fan continued to run without me knowing, so if I pull up and the fan is running and I pull a P0128, I clear it right away.
Thanks in advance for your help.

R56 Any value to a used R56 Continental HPFP?

Gubi — Mon, 04 May 2026 01:57:08 GMT

I replaced the Continental HPFP on my 2012 MCS with new because it was starting to go. Is anyone rebuilding/refurbishing these, and is there any value as a core?

I hate to throw things away that might be useful; figured I'd ask before it went in the trash.

R57 2c57 & 33FE

2014r57 — Sat, 02 May 2026 22:28:37 GMT

So, lately our 2014 r57 S with appx 116,xxx on it has started tossing 33FE under WOT, up inclined, etc. Checked the oil level and it was down a bit. Added 1/2 qt and seems to reduce the frequency. Also, will toss 2c57 when up and incline and WOT.

I did take it to the dealer as I was due for an oil change anyway. Dealer stated that it was still a half qt low. Added it. Told me that the cravenspeed dipstick that I had put in just about 6 months earlier is shorter than the stock one. They changed oil. Filled it to high side. Gave me the OEM dipstick.

Hasn�t throw codes at all in the last 2 weeks until today. I had put on about 500 hard miles on flat ground. Added 1/4 of oil as it was down a bit. Anyway, took it up the mountain by our home for a spirited 75 mile drive. First code that tripped was the 2c57 under WOT. The had yellow engine light came on (it has a couple times over the last couple of months). No power reduction. Pulled over anyway. Shut down. Light off. Continue on. That code never returned. But sure enough, 33FE came on with the oil pressure a couple of times under WOT as well.

Sigh. Where am I at? Chain and plugs were done 6 years ago and at 65K. Never had a new valve train cover. There is no chain sound, but it hasn�t been inspected. Only thing I�ve done differently was put non-run flats on last fall. The initial oil pressure light came on within a month of that when I drove it (wife�s car, she doesn�t drive it nearly as hard as I will).

Time for new turbo and oil pump?

R56 Need help Identifying part

Cadmat — Sat, 02 May 2026 19:53:44 GMT

Hi, this is from the front of the car. I am not sure from where but I am putting back the front end together. I am suspecting from the headlight assembly. Can someone please tell me?
thanks

R56 2009 R56 Coolant flush

TonyB22 — Sat, 02 May 2026 15:13:10 GMT

Looking for advice. I have a 2009 R56 Base with just over 40k miles and I'm about to have it serviced and i was wondering if i should change the coolant at the same time, i think it's recommended at 50k so I'm thinking It might be best to do it due to age and not mileage.
Purchased just over a year ago with 37k miles and with only driving around 3k mile per year so if i go by the mileage it will be another 3 years before it's due.

R56 P13c0 n18

Raymo2u — Fri, 24 Apr 2026 22:50:07 GMT

I need help for once...
2016 R60 N18 (Wrong forum but theres morw traffic here)
114k Miles

I recently had a code P13C0 pop up idling at a stop light, giving me the half engine and limp mode. Once the code is cleared the car drives normal again.
I pulled the Vanos solenoids, replacing the rear as I had a spare and I cleaned the one closest to the front. There was a bunch of gunk on the one in the front, so I actually replaced it with the one from the rear. The code came back idling in traffic again.
I read it could be bad oil, so I put in some Liquid Moly Engine Flush and let it idle for 15 minutes and then did an oil change. I drove around for a while today and the car is running smooth and its peppy...but on my way to work tonight, once again at a light, the code came back.

I am worried it has to do with timing, although I have no other timing symptoms or issues.

What should I do or check next? Should I replaced both Solenoids with new replacements? How can I check to see if its the Vanos cams? How can I check timing without the cam lock set?

Do you see bad wear here?

I appreciate your time guys.

R56 Clutch Choices for an n18 model

ItsAlias — Thu, 23 Apr 2026 12:49:58 GMT

Hi,
After weeks of excessive chatter when going from a stop and blaming it on a skill issue, my throw out bearing has seemingly exploded. So, I want to put a new clutch kit and flywheel in. Without looking in the bell housing yet, my suspicion is the flywheel went bad and stressed the throw out bearing and this is due to the fact I was making some extra power over stock on a not-so old flywheel (maybe old based on other things I have seen) at 92k miles, of which, I have only done the past 9k.

So, I have narrowed it down to 2 options for the clutch kit: the ecs one with the stage 2 southbend clutch and aluminum flywheel or the clutchmasters fx250 with the steel single mass. Any opinions on these? I dont plan to go oe as it is more expensive and I really dont want a dual mass. I would do the valeo kit, but it is OOS with no eta. Any opinions on other kits with single mass flywheels in the 1200-1400 range? Ive also heard the clutch masters aluminum flywheels arent so great which is why I would opt for the steel should I choose theirs. My end goal for the car eventually is either a jcw turbo or f21m with a mildish tune and ofc the supporting mods for that, a lot of which I have already installed.

Thanks in advance!

I stole the below video from another forum, and that's the exact noise my car made before the TOB fully gave out. Currently, the car cannot stop as whatever is broken prevents the clutch pedal from fully depressing.

Attached Files

WhatsApp Video 2021-05-21 at 13.06.35-1_3b370e06-ef6a-4e04-89f0-495698a0a27d.mov (2.90 MB)