Do you know how much power it needs? What is the value of the fuse in the kit?

These are 5A switched power sources: F6, F7, F9, F10, F11, F13, F29, F35, F36, F39, F40.

These are some constant-on sources: F23(20A), F28(15A), F32(15A)

Dash light power: Look for a grey wire with red stripe going to the back of any of the components in the center stack (toggle switches, radio, or ventilation controls).

The red (accessory power) wire is fused at 5A, I think. I will double check and post again later.

Thanks for the power sources on the fusebox - how should I tap into them with a single wire? Should I use an add-a-circuit type deal, or can I find a wire and tap into it?
The kit I have comes with wire clips that sever the old and new wires' plastic sheath to tap into power (jargon name for this device??).
I would love to find wires that are already fused high enough for the extra capacity and just tie into them that way, short of using an add-a-circuit, which I really don't understand how to use.

Use add-a-circuit. They have a wire coming out of them and you can just tap into that wire using the clip in your kit.

OK - any specific circuits I should hop onto? Like I said, I believe the accessory-on is 5A, and the constant on is probably less than 1A considering it's unfused.

Choose any that is unlikely to interfere with what you're using it for. Look at the lists here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nd-wiring.html

All sorted! I used F6 I think for the switched power, and whatever the always-on radio circuit is for the constant power.
Add-a-circuits are awesome! The system fired up after finding a decent ground and re-connecting the battery.

The first time though, I almost $*at myself because I tried to turn the car over and everything went dark... Gotta screw that negative terminal back on before you draw so much power :razz:

tl;dr

but,

The left column radio fuse is switched, used it for my PAC wheel adaptor.