Break In Period???
Like most mfrs, MINI has you take it easy for the first 1200 miles / 2000 kms.
Invariably, the "drive it like you stole it" counterpoint will be introduced also, with adherents offering any number of anecdotal cases. Or point you to this website:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
or similar. The author here lays out a logical case for doing so (i.e. giving it some good throttle bursts right out of the gate) to seat the rings fully and taking advantage of the initial cylinder honing.
I've done either with new cars and...both worked out ok (performance seemed ok/good/as expected with both, no "uses oil" / early wear symptoms) on cars I eventually owned a long time.
YMMV.
Invariably, the "drive it like you stole it" counterpoint will be introduced also, with adherents offering any number of anecdotal cases. Or point you to this website:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
or similar. The author here lays out a logical case for doing so (i.e. giving it some good throttle bursts right out of the gate) to seat the rings fully and taking advantage of the initial cylinder honing.
I've done either with new cars and...both worked out ok (performance seemed ok/good/as expected with both, no "uses oil" / early wear symptoms) on cars I eventually owned a long time.
YMMV.
Like most mfrs, MINI has you take it easy for the first 1200 miles / 2000 kms.
Invariably, the "drive it like you stole it" counterpoint will be introduced also, with adherents offering any number of anecdotal cases. Or point you to this website:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
or similar. The author here lays out a logical case for doing so (i.e. giving it some good throttle bursts right out of the gate) to seat the rings fully and taking advantage of the initial cylinder honing.
I've done either with new cars and...both worked out ok (performance seemed ok/good/as expected with both, no "uses oil" / early wear symptoms) on cars I eventually owned a long time.
YMMV.
Invariably, the "drive it like you stole it" counterpoint will be introduced also, with adherents offering any number of anecdotal cases. Or point you to this website:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
or similar. The author here lays out a logical case for doing so (i.e. giving it some good throttle bursts right out of the gate) to seat the rings fully and taking advantage of the initial cylinder honing.
I've done either with new cars and...both worked out ok (performance seemed ok/good/as expected with both, no "uses oil" / early wear symptoms) on cars I eventually owned a long time.
YMMV.
What's probably more important is to plan for an oil and oil filter change after the break-in period (again, a majority recommendation but not a consensus) and then again at ~7500 miles. You'll have to do it as a DIY or pay to have it done, as it won't be covered by the dealer's service agreement. Very few people think it's okay to wait until ~15K miles, when the onboard computer says it's time to perform the first change.
...take it easy for the first 1200 mi). FWIW, this is what I did with my '11 and my oil consumption through 16K miles has been zero.
What's probably more important is to plan for an oil and oil filter change after the break-in period (again, a majority recommendation but not a consensus) and then again at ~7500 miles....Very few people think it's okay to wait until ~15K miles, when the onboard computer says it's time to perform the first change.
What's probably more important is to plan for an oil and oil filter change after the break-in period (again, a majority recommendation but not a consensus) and then again at ~7500 miles....Very few people think it's okay to wait until ~15K miles, when the onboard computer says it's time to perform the first change.
("Crazy roller-skate drivers!") The following 1100 miles were similar: no steady speeds, no 3500+ rpm, easy on the brakes and clutch, no competition starts, no panic stops.After almost a year since delivery, Molly2 has gone only about 8,000 miles, but she has had two oil changes -- one at 1200, and one at 7400 -- using MINI oil and MINI filters, but changed at White Dog Garage in Iowa City. The onboard computer says I will need my first oil change in April 2013
as an past builder of very high performance engines (2 land speed records over 200MPH in 2 different classes), my take on break in is to follow the OEM recommendations on limiting the RPMs, but:
1) ocasionally use full throttle through the gears up to the breakin "redline" (4500 RPM on my 2012 countryman s all4) (open throttle = higher pressure on the rings, which helps assure seating)
2) vary the RPMs by using different gears and varying you speed (NO CRUISE CONTROL during breakin), stay off the interstates
3) gradually increase the max RPM you hit on your occational full throttle runs until you go to the max RPM (redline) at the end of the breakin miles (1200 miles on my 2012 countryman s all4)
ie at 600 miles go 1/2 way from the 4500 RPM breakin limit to the engine redline on the tachometer
4) check the oil level OFTEN and keep it at the FULL mark during the breakin period, don't let it get a quart low before adding oil, look for signs of coolant in the oil....milkly looking sludge on the dipstick, if in doubt, go to the dealer or a trusted mechanic
5) change the oil and filter at the 1200 mile mark, after that it is up to you how often you change oil, personally, i change oil at 5000 miles or 6 months and will only be using an oil that carries the BMW/MINI LL-01 rating and i will only use oem filters. i will also change ALL fluids at 1200 miles, in particlular my manual transmission, but not the coolant or brake fluid
6) during breakin, look at your other fluid levels. in particular, the coolant.....open the filler cap on the coolant expansion tank (DISCLAIMER...ONLY OPEN WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD, ie before driving in the AM) and look at the coolant....if you see "rainbows" get to the dealer or a trusted mechanic .....rainbows can indicate oil in the coolant
7) enjoy a long-lived engine and transmission, my 1997 GMC Sonoma p/u has 287,000 miles using the above, both my motorcycles have over 125,000 miles.
my $.04 (inflation)
scott
1) ocasionally use full throttle through the gears up to the breakin "redline" (4500 RPM on my 2012 countryman s all4) (open throttle = higher pressure on the rings, which helps assure seating)
2) vary the RPMs by using different gears and varying you speed (NO CRUISE CONTROL during breakin), stay off the interstates
3) gradually increase the max RPM you hit on your occational full throttle runs until you go to the max RPM (redline) at the end of the breakin miles (1200 miles on my 2012 countryman s all4)
ie at 600 miles go 1/2 way from the 4500 RPM breakin limit to the engine redline on the tachometer
4) check the oil level OFTEN and keep it at the FULL mark during the breakin period, don't let it get a quart low before adding oil, look for signs of coolant in the oil....milkly looking sludge on the dipstick, if in doubt, go to the dealer or a trusted mechanic
5) change the oil and filter at the 1200 mile mark, after that it is up to you how often you change oil, personally, i change oil at 5000 miles or 6 months and will only be using an oil that carries the BMW/MINI LL-01 rating and i will only use oem filters. i will also change ALL fluids at 1200 miles, in particlular my manual transmission, but not the coolant or brake fluid
6) during breakin, look at your other fluid levels. in particular, the coolant.....open the filler cap on the coolant expansion tank (DISCLAIMER...ONLY OPEN WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD, ie before driving in the AM) and look at the coolant....if you see "rainbows" get to the dealer or a trusted mechanic .....rainbows can indicate oil in the coolant
7) enjoy a long-lived engine and transmission, my 1997 GMC Sonoma p/u has 287,000 miles using the above, both my motorcycles have over 125,000 miles.
my $.04 (inflation)
scott
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