Drivetrain Crank Pulley removal without holder tool
#1
Crank Pulley removal without holder tool
Has anyone removed the crank pulley without the holder tool? This is the tool that keeps the crank from turning. I have the rest of the BMW tools, but I do not have the holder tool. Will putting the car in Reverse and then apply the brakes with the ignition in the 2 pos(not start) work? I have read that when installing the harmonic balancer and bolt that you can put the car in 6th and apply the brakes while the ignition in 2 pos (not start).
Appreciate any good tips.
Thanks!
Appreciate any good tips.
Thanks!
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#12
I made my own holder tool using some scrap metal in my shop. Worked great. The only issue I had was a faulty BMW install tool. Gauled my 2005 crank pulley a bit, but I was able to use a hardened washer to space the install tool to finish the job. Mightmare. The tool is still workable, but I was really mad that the tool failed. I ended up using a hardened washer on the bolt to make sure I had a good surface on which the bolt could rest on. I used the screw driver in the brake veins method that worked awesome.
I measured the difference between the 02 and 05 crank pulleys. The 05 is 1 pound lighter. I will be testing using the but dyno and see if it make a difference. I will be posting the whole story in another thread.
I measured the difference between the 02 and 05 crank pulleys. The 05 is 1 pound lighter. I will be testing using the but dyno and see if it make a difference. I will be posting the whole story in another thread.
#13
#15
I just did the crank pulley swap with the minimals in tools.
I gunned the bolt out and was able to pull out the pulley with a cheap sears puller and the appropriate bolts for the pulley. Of course i cranked on the puller by hand its pretty easy to gouge the crank snout. to hold the crank in position I placed a screw driver in the vents of the brake rotor and let it rest against the caliper bracket. I used a towel between the to so as not to scratch the brackets paint. I also put the car in 6th gear. Make sure to chock the wheels securely!!!! To protect the cranks threads and provide a surface to push off of, I slipped a 1/4 ratchet extension into the crank. Its strong enough not to break and thin enough to fit into the hole and not damage the threads. I had one long enough to bottom out and just stick about 3/4 of an inch out of the crank.
Now, installing the pulley was another pain. At my local hardware store i was able to scrape up a metric bolt with the same thread and diameter of the crank bolt. It was the longest one they had at about 1 1/2 inches longer than the original. With daylight fading I went with it and a grade 8 washer to fit it. I lubed up the washer and after cleaning the new pulley and crank snout I drove the pulley on with the longer bolt and lubed washer by hand, slowly making sure not to bottom out the long bolt. I finished it with the original bolt then removed it to clean up the grease and check the pulley was fully seated then torqed on the bolt to spec. This of course with the screw driver in the rotor again.
Total cost of tools= $35
Plus $7 for the 6pack ;-)
I gunned the bolt out and was able to pull out the pulley with a cheap sears puller and the appropriate bolts for the pulley. Of course i cranked on the puller by hand its pretty easy to gouge the crank snout. to hold the crank in position I placed a screw driver in the vents of the brake rotor and let it rest against the caliper bracket. I used a towel between the to so as not to scratch the brackets paint. I also put the car in 6th gear. Make sure to chock the wheels securely!!!! To protect the cranks threads and provide a surface to push off of, I slipped a 1/4 ratchet extension into the crank. Its strong enough not to break and thin enough to fit into the hole and not damage the threads. I had one long enough to bottom out and just stick about 3/4 of an inch out of the crank.
Now, installing the pulley was another pain. At my local hardware store i was able to scrape up a metric bolt with the same thread and diameter of the crank bolt. It was the longest one they had at about 1 1/2 inches longer than the original. With daylight fading I went with it and a grade 8 washer to fit it. I lubed up the washer and after cleaning the new pulley and crank snout I drove the pulley on with the longer bolt and lubed washer by hand, slowly making sure not to bottom out the long bolt. I finished it with the original bolt then removed it to clean up the grease and check the pulley was fully seated then torqed on the bolt to spec. This of course with the screw driver in the rotor again.
Total cost of tools= $35
Plus $7 for the 6pack ;-)
#16
Funny how it dudn't work for others
I had an assistant do exactly and we followed your instructions to the T, yet the crank still turns. Funny how many others say the exact thing as I am saying about your info being flawed.
#17
wow....couldn't have figured that out
Can't believe you would post such nonsense....
#18
And I can't believe you're replying to someone who's banned (according to the little banned thing under his name)
As for the crank pulley, unless Minis have something special, an impact wrench can do the job, I always use one for crank pulleys and never had a single issue (both on my cars and on multiple customers cars)
As for the crank pulley, unless Minis have something special, an impact wrench can do the job, I always use one for crank pulleys and never had a single issue (both on my cars and on multiple customers cars)
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