My first Dyno run... thought I'd share!
 

Hello everyone! I decided to put my MCS on the dyno for the first time today, mostly to get an idea where I'm at before I add the WMS Exhaust and MTH or Unichip. I know there is a ton of difference from dyno to dyno, so I'm more interested in the differences when I go there next time than I am with what she put down today... regardless, these guys were real pros, and it was a fun experience. My mod list is on my signature!

I suck at the whole linking pictures in here... I need a good place to host them. In the meantime I put pics in the gallery of the runs.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...sort=1&cat=500

This first one is the page with all 3 runs. The first run I put down 170.1 hp and 157.2 tq. The guy forgot to turn the fan on blowing towards the intercooler inlet...whoops!
Run 2... the best run. Fan was on this time... posted 185.2 hp / 162.5 tq
Here is the link for that run on it's own.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...sort=1&cat=500

I reversed the colors so the fine lines would have better contrast.
These results are the SAE corrected figures by the way.

For grins, here is the actual power uncorrected... it gives you an idea of what the car is doing on a cool fall day (about 45 degrees today)

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ze=big&cat=500

194.3 hp / 170.5 ft. lbs... wheee!:thumbsup:

Thats pretty impressive with just the little work done.

ya nice :thumbsup:

Thats with no work done right?

NEVER MIND I MISSED YOUR MODS.

very nice

What's going on above 6k rpm? Everything's nice and linear up to that point and then it starts oscillating up and down. Not enough flow? A/F ratio's are pretty darn low then too.

I wondered the same thing myself... I think it's a matter of running a little too rich at that point... something I'm counting on the unichip or MTH to take care of.

That's really normal for an MCS dyno without large amounts of smoothing. I'm pretty sure it's due to the ecu pulling timing at higher revs due to high air temps. The dyno is horrible for intercooler cooling.

Nice.
I was looking for a good dyno in our area. Glad you were happy with them.
If you don't mind, how much?

$75 for 3 runs... $100 total if you want A/F charted as well. Rob is the guy you want to speak to. They were very quick getting the dyno work done, printed the charts that I asked for, and they were purely professional. Let me know if you're going to go Obehave, I'll join you down there!

So... after seeing MDSBrain's recent post with his results on the dyno, I'm wondering if my car is actually running that strong, or is the fact he has an MCSa hurting his results. Both Dyno'ed on a Dynojet... he has MTH, Mymini exhaust, and a GRS intercooler on the car. The fan they used in front of the car is WAY bigger than the fan my guy used... although it's clear the airflow over the fan makes a big difference.

Basically, I'm just curious if someone else had my same mods on their car, and one made more power than the other, what it could be attributed to?

See http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthrea...=104521&page=3 post #46

Basically, all cars are not created equally. You may have gotten a strong one out of the box while someone else has to get the weak one out of the box for that normal curve to work:)

I would also believe Spiderx comments on Dynos. Unles you use the exact some one under the exact same conditions, comparing probably means nothing.

One big factor is how out-of-align your BPV is. You might be loosing a PSI or so of boost if it's not sealing properly.

Bearing in mind, I'm not an expert, my understanding is that there are a number of factors that effect the runs themselves. The obvious ones are ambient temp and humidity level. There is also variation related to how hot the engine is at the time of the test (as the use of the fan above demonstates). Less obvious is tires. If the dyno is roller type and not something like a Dynapack (in which the drive wheels are removed and the axles are bolted up directly to the unit), the tires used with effect the ratings as well.

How would I discover if my BPV was out of alignment? Are you saying my numbers are lower than they should be?

I understand the tires being a factor... but realistically lighter tires and wheels translate to more speed on the road as well. Regarding ambient temp and humidity... my figures were corrected to SAE standards. My actual figures are a good bit higher (look at the first post again!).

Nah, I'm just saying that's a possible reason for the high disparities between dyno #'s for Cooper S'. Do a search for bypass valve adjustment and I'm sure you'll find the thread on it. You have to take the BPV off in order to see if it's misaligned.

oh ok... cool. Perfect clarification.

Thanks.
It'll be after the holidays for sure but I'll send you a PM when I get serious about it.