I want the intake ports cooler (they're long) for a cooler intake charge, plus, a cooler cylinder head might not promote detonation with higher compression. I live in south Texas, where heat is definately a factor. What is the stock thermostat rated at, anyway? Another question I have is: I have a header on my '02 MC- didn't they come from the factory with one? Others are talking about installing headers. Is the original no good, or is mine an aftermarket part? One more question, while I'm at it: would the computer be confused if I eliminated the first catalytic converter? It's got two- how many does it take?! -Jeffy.

 

no the car dosnt come stock with a header. i changed mine to a miltek header witch has a free flow cat but still has a place for both oxygen sensors. as long as there is a place for both oxygen sensors it should be fine. and the header made a nice difference in power as well as a much better sound from the exhaust. i have both milltek header and exhaust. and so they say the header reduces heat under the hood.

 

If you are considering a header and want lower under the hood temps, you might consider coating or wrapping the header. Some have done this, while most, I think don't bother 'cause depending on what method you decide to use it can add a few dollars to your mod.

 

The original header if fine on a stock or slightly modified motor..
Cooling the intake? Use water injection.
I don't think the cooler thermostat will help a bit.

Pick up a stock header cheap and have it coated as suggested above. That'll help with underhood temps.

 

Here is a before and after ceramic coated stock header.



And if you want a little more heat containment, do the heat shield also.

 

And, the stock thermostat is 195 degrees. It's the same for all MINIs, thank goodness.

 

Nice.
How do you like it and who did the coating?

 

The only problem with too cold of a thermo, is if the actual temps are too low, the engine doesn't warmup fast enough for the pre-programmed routine, and the computer trips a code. That's usually if someone drops in a 160 instead of a 180, etc.

 

and how much?

 

And the stock one is 195. 15 degrees difference. Thanks for actually answering my question-I couldn't get a straight answer from anyone on the mini2 site. I've been thinking outside the box for twenty years, and it has given me fast cars for less money than the usual "bought the kit" guys. I guaranty that my non-supercharged car will be fast, just like my past projects. Sleeper cars are fun! -love, Jeffy.

 

The coating was done at Cradin Industries. The price for the silver is $175. This is an exterior coating only, no interior available. This ceramic coating is not a Techline product; it’s far superior with flexible characteristics. http://www.cradin.com/

The coating modified the exhaust tone slightly, taking the tinny edge off the Miltek’s note. My temp measurement method was less than ideal so, I can’t make an objective report on the results. The area next to the accelerator pedal is less un-comfortable for my ankle and little toe (I drive barefoot a lot). Before, that foot well plate would roast my ankle. Here is a link another related post of mine with some more info. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...eat+management.

Jeffy, you might consider the heat dispersant coating for your intake manifold to help lower the metal temp.
I’m prepping an oil pan at the moment for coating next week. The inside will be done with an oil repellant and the outside with the heat dispersant coating.

 

I use this one with no problems at all.

 

There are many flaws in the numbers presented in the advertisement on that page. What’s an intercooler manifold? A coolant thermostat opens at a certain temperature and closes at that temperature that’s all. It does not perform magic. Coolant temp in very hot weather, under load, will still rise to the same point whether the thermostat opens sooner or later. My mileage varied from those claims.

 

I don't even know what an intercooler intake is, since I have NO supercharger, and...Don't want one. I have my header totally covered and heat shielded, so it's not my main concern. I appreciate all input, as it's entertaining if nothing else. I have found that I can use a 15 degree cooler-rated thermostat without problems. If the radiator is effective enough and the heat can be removed from the engine room, the engine will run at 180 degrees. If it does not, even after changing to the 180 thermostat, then there is a weak link in the cooling system that I will find and address. If you can provide answers to my questions directly, then you will save me trouble and time, and you are knowledgeable and tallented- you know your craft/hobby. You deserve props. In the end, I will produce a normally aspirated car that is fast. This could help others who are on the same wave-length that I am. You will be an important contributer to what will be a successful project. Imagine a car that can get 30 MPG, yet be fast if required. Thankyou, one and all. -Jeffy.

 

Jeffy all good questions and good luck with your project . We have sold close to 200 180 degree thermostats with no issues. One of the major players in the BMW automotive aftermarket orders 20 at a time so we must be doing something correct. When we first released the product last year we provided numbers , the type of testing device used by a ASC mechanic and still those are doubted.What are you gonna do LOL
You wil find as many others have that the 180 D is one of the most inexpensive mods that will actually help your motor live a little easier, it is ALL good BTW the intercooler manifold is a rather large cast component in the S super charger system I am surprised that member couldn't find it

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

Jeffy, yes, the N/A cooper does not have to cope with the heat the SC generates and that’s why I didn’t say you were on the wrong path with the thermostat. I have yet to do data logging or component temp measurements with the Cooper. If you’re close enough to me, I can do some before and after testing.

I took exception to the referred advertisement as it relates to the S model temperature measurements. Since the vendor for that product has jumped into your post, I have to clarify my question because, it went right over his head. There is a flaw in the nomenclature used for one of the intake charge parts. Which large cast piece is referred to as the intercooler manifold?

Supercharger output duct

Intercooler output duct

Intake manifold

Having measured under hood component temperatures over 30 times since June, with ambient ranging from 73 degrees Fahrenheit to 104 degrees; nothing measured 70 degrees even when the motor had been resting 12 hrs. If the motor has been running for 60 minutes as the add alludes to, nothing in the air charge path will be 70 degrees either. Anyone with functioning Meissner’s corpuscles in their fingers can determine that

There are inaccuracies in the referred add, whether intentional or un-intentional.

The advertisement’s temperature listing that agrees with my temp log, is the supercharger case at the pulley shaft.

 

That makes me feel much more confident about this, Maxmini. As for living nearby, K-huevo, you do. Maybe we can share some ideas- only thing is, my car is not supercharged, so my kind of mods may differ from those you would do. Thanks, guys. By the way, Max, how do I contact you for parts such as the thermostat? -Jeffy.