Drivetrain Is flex pipe welded to downpipe
#1
01-11-2019, 11:49 AM
Is flex pipe welded to downpipe
fugured i would make it a downpipe and turbo muffler delete weekend but am already finding it WAY harder that expexted
so.. trying to remove the vband clamp and i havent yet but had a nightmare moment ...
is the vband clamp that holds the flex to the downpipe on a factory 2013 MCS welded to the downpipe or just clamped?
there isnt a single downpipe video that shows ½ of the troubles and no e so far that i can find that show how to remove the flex pipe from the factory down pipe. I know its just a flange but ugh i really hope it aint welded or my weekend prohect is over
so.. trying to remove the vband clamp and i havent yet but had a nightmare moment ...
is the vband clamp that holds the flex to the downpipe on a factory 2013 MCS welded to the downpipe or just clamped?
there isnt a single downpipe video that shows ½ of the troubles and no e so far that i can find that show how to remove the flex pipe from the factory down pipe. I know its just a flange but ugh i really hope it aint welded or my weekend prohect is over
#2
01-11-2019, 12:21 PM
The V-band clamp is the only thing that holds the downpipe to the flex pipe. The clamp is normally a PITA to remove, I recommend that you pick up a new clamp so you can just cut the old one off. Corrosion would be the only other thing holding them together.
If you're removing the downpipe, take a few extra minutes to check for any oil leaks near the oil filter housing. This is a common leak point, and the only fix is to remove the downpipe and heat shields and install new seals.
Have fun,
Mike
If you're removing the downpipe, take a few extra minutes to check for any oil leaks near the oil filter housing. This is a common leak point, and the only fix is to remove the downpipe and heat shields and install new seals.
Have fun,
Mike
#3
01-11-2019, 01:01 PM
Yeah oil leaks was one of the first things I want after after I sprayed some penetrating oil and then the next time I went under the car there was stuff running down the oil pan and I freaked out and then I realized it was the penetrating oil I sprayed on the the band clamp there is some old oil residue from the oil filter but it’s old there’s nothing fresh it looks good from what I can tail probably oil from when I changed it a few weeks back
And I can’t get the damn O2 sensor out it’s in there hard-core so I’m not sure what I’m gonna do I’ll have to price and O2 sensor At the parts stores here or on the online sites . I tried unplugging it too and I can’t get it unplugged because it’s been such a crazy spot
ill save it for another weekend plus it’s below 30° in my garage so I’m freezing my *** off too
And I can’t get the damn O2 sensor out it’s in there hard-core so I’m not sure what I’m gonna do I’ll have to price and O2 sensor At the parts stores here or on the online sites . I tried unplugging it too and I can’t get it unplugged because it’s been such a crazy spot
ill save it for another weekend plus it’s below 30° in my garage so I’m freezing my *** off too
#4
01-12-2019, 06:10 AM
So a little snow this morning so no DP or muffler today just too cold out to even worry about such a frivolous thing
also saw yesterday there is a maybe 1.5” water line right in front of the torx bolt for the turbo muffler .
i did push it gently enough i think i can get a socket up there? but am not a fan of pushing water hoses around as connections like are on the bottom of the fluid tank leak at the drop of a hat. I know its not connected to that, its coming from the radiator, just making a point.
So ... I went to harbor freight and grabbed my 2nd set of jack stand and the currently on sale 6amp “Saw’s All” and a myriad of blades and other do-dad’s so when it warms up i can cut that damn vband bolt off.
Also ordered a O2 sensor socket and new O2 sensor because i think i am going to have to cut the wires and replace. I dont think the O2 sensor socket is going to work because the damn sensor didnt move a mm. I could probably get it off if the car was in the air and i could really lay into it but it aint worth all the trouble. Just cut the wires and replace the damn thing.
So not a total loss for the weekend i got to learn some things about working on the car in reality vs. 99% of the you tube videos were they arent showing you a fraction of what it really takes. “Just do this and that” turns into start with this, swear a bunch, then try that, swear some more, if you are lucky you will get it without breaking it or other things, but pack your lunch because very small simple things take WAY more time and sanity than you think!
also got some tin snips so i can cut “open” the lower heat shield bolt holes so i dont have to spend an hour removing the bolts just loosen them and slide the shield up and off,
one was already like this and one bolt wasnt even thread into the lower heat shield which tells me someone has been in there.
damn it i wish i could find the actual work history on this car.
non mini related, also ran to lowes and grabbed a new toilet tank fill/valve and replace it, as the toilet was running a tiny trickle all the time and adjusting the water height screw didnt matter, so it needed replaced.
also saw yesterday there is a maybe 1.5” water line right in front of the torx bolt for the turbo muffler .
i did push it gently enough i think i can get a socket up there? but am not a fan of pushing water hoses around as connections like are on the bottom of the fluid tank leak at the drop of a hat. I know its not connected to that, its coming from the radiator, just making a point.
So ... I went to harbor freight and grabbed my 2nd set of jack stand and the currently on sale 6amp “Saw’s All” and a myriad of blades and other do-dad’s so when it warms up i can cut that damn vband bolt off.
Also ordered a O2 sensor socket and new O2 sensor because i think i am going to have to cut the wires and replace. I dont think the O2 sensor socket is going to work because the damn sensor didnt move a mm. I could probably get it off if the car was in the air and i could really lay into it but it aint worth all the trouble. Just cut the wires and replace the damn thing.
So not a total loss for the weekend i got to learn some things about working on the car in reality vs. 99% of the you tube videos were they arent showing you a fraction of what it really takes. “Just do this and that” turns into start with this, swear a bunch, then try that, swear some more, if you are lucky you will get it without breaking it or other things, but pack your lunch because very small simple things take WAY more time and sanity than you think!
also got some tin snips so i can cut “open” the lower heat shield bolt holes so i dont have to spend an hour removing the bolts just loosen them and slide the shield up and off,
one was already like this and one bolt wasnt even thread into the lower heat shield which tells me someone has been in there.
damn it i wish i could find the actual work history on this car.
non mini related, also ran to lowes and grabbed a new toilet tank fill/valve and replace it, as the toilet was running a tiny trickle all the time and adjusting the water height screw didnt matter, so it needed replaced.
#5
01-13-2019, 05:37 PM
I've used an extension with the torx screw holding the muffler and didn't have any issues with the hose.
When I've pulled off the heat shields, the worst ones were the upper bolts. Get a variety of 10 mm wrenches and sockets. Get the car up in the air, and some of the bolts are accessed easier from underneath. The bolt on the upper passenger side does not need to be removed (just loosen), the shield is slotted on that hole.
When you are ready to remove the downpipe, get an extra gasket for the upper flange (to the turbo). Make sure that you disconnect the battery, because the lower heat shield can hit the bare positive stud on the alternator (ask me how I know). You don't actually have to remove the lower heat shield, just have it loose and you can remove the downpipe with the shield loose.
Take your time and figure out how to remove the o2 sensor wiring plug. Keep the old O2 sensor in the old DP, so it is there if you ever need to reinstall it. Once they are in place, they are difficult to remove.
The most difficult thing to do when working on this job is to be patient. Allow plenty of time and just keep trying different ways to get at these bolts.
Have fun,
Mike
When I've pulled off the heat shields, the worst ones were the upper bolts. Get a variety of 10 mm wrenches and sockets. Get the car up in the air, and some of the bolts are accessed easier from underneath. The bolt on the upper passenger side does not need to be removed (just loosen), the shield is slotted on that hole.
When you are ready to remove the downpipe, get an extra gasket for the upper flange (to the turbo). Make sure that you disconnect the battery, because the lower heat shield can hit the bare positive stud on the alternator (ask me how I know). You don't actually have to remove the lower heat shield, just have it loose and you can remove the downpipe with the shield loose.
Take your time and figure out how to remove the o2 sensor wiring plug. Keep the old O2 sensor in the old DP, so it is there if you ever need to reinstall it. Once they are in place, they are difficult to remove.
The most difficult thing to do when working on this job is to be patient. Allow plenty of time and just keep trying different ways to get at these bolts.
Have fun,
Mike
#6
01-13-2019, 07:56 PM
Upper head shield was easy just slow because the wrench even the ratchet wrench could only turn a little but. Im gunna slot the other two upper bolt holes so i dont have to remove them anymore.
are you saying i have to remove the lower heatshield too or loosen it? I disnt look but didnt even immediately see how its connected.
But at the time i was at my wits end with that damn lower O2 sensor and vband clamp on the flex pipe. Got a sensor socket kit so hopefully it will be easier.
i just think for now i will postpone everything til warmer weather, although i still have my accord to drive if i tear apart the mini and run out of time on the weekend.
got downpipe, larger intercooler, turbo muffler delete pipe, BOV and Alta Spring, OCC though it doesnt show much oil in the small intake tube, only some minor residue, front and back brakes/rotors, probably have a CAI soon just cant decide which to get. About to just cut the muffler off and put in a Y piece to the bumper rather than 800-1000 for exhaust.
are you saying i have to remove the lower heatshield too or loosen it? I disnt look but didnt even immediately see how its connected.
But at the time i was at my wits end with that damn lower O2 sensor and vband clamp on the flex pipe. Got a sensor socket kit so hopefully it will be easier.
i just think for now i will postpone everything til warmer weather, although i still have my accord to drive if i tear apart the mini and run out of time on the weekend.
got downpipe, larger intercooler, turbo muffler delete pipe, BOV and Alta Spring, OCC though it doesnt show much oil in the small intake tube, only some minor residue, front and back brakes/rotors, probably have a CAI soon just cant decide which to get. About to just cut the muffler off and put in a Y piece to the bumper rather than 800-1000 for exhaust.
#7
01-14-2019, 04:02 AM
The lower heat shield is in two pieces, shaped like a 'D'. The flat part of the D is bolted to the engine block. The round part of the D is bolted at the edges, perpendicular to the engine block.
I thought it was pretty difficult to get the downpipe out with the lower heat shield in place.
Keep an eye on craigslist and the market here, it is pretty common for people to have used exhausts for sale. Don't expect much performance boost from a CAI or aftermarket exhaust, they generally just make better noise. Unless you're a big fan of intake sounds, I'd save the money for a tune. That is where you will get noticeable performance, and get rid of the CEL from your new downpipe.
BTW, I would recommend driving the car with the new downpipe and stock exhaust to see how you like the sound. I put a militek catted downpipe on, and the car got quite a bit louder. I've heard that the catless pipes have a raspy and loud affect on the exhaust tone. My butt-dyno approved the change to the aftermarket cat, but the biggest improvement was from the tune.
Have fun,
Mike
I thought it was pretty difficult to get the downpipe out with the lower heat shield in place.
Keep an eye on craigslist and the market here, it is pretty common for people to have used exhausts for sale. Don't expect much performance boost from a CAI or aftermarket exhaust, they generally just make better noise. Unless you're a big fan of intake sounds, I'd save the money for a tune. That is where you will get noticeable performance, and get rid of the CEL from your new downpipe.
BTW, I would recommend driving the car with the new downpipe and stock exhaust to see how you like the sound. I put a militek catted downpipe on, and the car got quite a bit louder. I've heard that the catless pipes have a raspy and loud affect on the exhaust tone. My butt-dyno approved the change to the aftermarket cat, but the biggest improvement was from the tune.
Have fun,
Mike
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#8
01-14-2019, 07:47 PM
The CIA is only because mariokart needs it for stage 2. I may only go stage one not sure yet.
i too have seen some things about the volume increase from the DP install.
its hard to get throat from a 4 banger, but i have heard some "larger than 4cyl" sounds coming from tuned cars but thats a long term wish i think.
For the short term i have hitting the least expensive most beneficial upgrades.
I havent been able to find a video or anything yet on removing the lower heatshield. ... Still looking though.
i too have seen some things about the volume increase from the DP install.
its hard to get throat from a 4 banger, but i have heard some "larger than 4cyl" sounds coming from tuned cars but thats a long term wish i think.
For the short term i have hitting the least expensive most beneficial upgrades.
I havent been able to find a video or anything yet on removing the lower heatshield. ... Still looking though.
#9
01-15-2019, 04:06 AM
In my opinion, removing the restrictions from the exhaust gets a raspy or harsh sound from these engines. Look into a muffler with packing to get a little deeper sound, like a borla or magnaflow. The lower heat shield isn't hard to remove, you can see the bolts pretty clearly from under the car and they aren't too bad to get to, if you have a short extension.
most beneficial upgrades (as far as adding power) will be the downpipe and tune.
Mike
most beneficial upgrades (as far as adding power) will be the downpipe and tune.
Mike
#10
01-15-2019, 05:28 AM
Alliance Member
For the installation, I followed these instructions, and it went without issue:
https://d1sfhav1wboke3.cloudfront.ne...e7bc9d536d.pdf
Page 15 starts the down pipe installation. I did not remove the lower heat shield completely. If you can get the studs out of the turbo housing, the down pipe will fall right out. Service mode would have made it easier, too.
https://d1sfhav1wboke3.cloudfront.ne...e7bc9d536d.pdf
Page 15 starts the down pipe installation. I did not remove the lower heat shield completely. If you can get the studs out of the turbo housing, the down pipe will fall right out. Service mode would have made it easier, too.
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