Already got downpipe sitting on our shelf. This was a big spotlight during a conversation with Mario. My research has been quite extensive, the only not-so-sure type of things are turbo classing, waste-gate control, target pressure, tune, etc. Other hardwares like upgraded intercooler, cat-free downpipe, and some intake resonator delete are all in the works. I've also started on the oil catch can modifications, too, though walnut blasting is a walk in the park to do in my garage, it's still good to dial down that oil residue on the valve problem with turbo upgrade coming up.

 

Aftermarket turbo --> Street Modified Front Wheel Drive (SMF) as far as I know.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

On my 2014 N18 R59S I'm running the S42, catless down pipe, JB+, one range colder plugs and Wagner comp IC, no tune currently, only codes are for catless downpipe. Logged AFRs are mid 11s above 5000, timing ramping up to 7.5 by 5k holding to redline. Boost 15-16.5 depending on weather, and it holds it to redline.

Use a modified stock intake or an NM (or clone) to avoid P00bd code.

Car is definitely faster than stock turbo by a good chunk, probably +20-30 lb-ft and 20-30whp. It's not placebo, verified by datalogging 0-80mph times. That whole "falls flat on it's face" thing over 5000 is totally gone with the S42 upgrade.

Spool is a touch later, but not much, can still hit 14psi+ at like 2500.

Each car is different and mine is a low mileage car so things may work out differently on different cars.

 

 

I installed the JMTC s42 on Saturday with the RPM stage III tune from Mario. I hit 20 pounds of boost at 2500 RPM and maintains it up to 7200 no problem. Couldn’t be happier so far but I’ve only had one day to really pound on it.

 

 

 

 

I'm getting close to getting a turbo upgrade now. Bought the car used, but pretty much redid EVERY component around the engine as far as cooling, timing assembly, and turbo plumbing. Currently I'm still running the stock N14 MCS intake. Below are my upgrades:
- oil catch can
- ebay knock-off FMIC
- CNT catless DP
- Muffler Delete
- NoiseMaker Delete
- Alta Diverter Valve Spring + spacer
- Newest version OEM Diverter Valve
- JCW square-style turbo header manifold
- I'm in Texas, I only use 93-Octane gasoline

I plan to do these:
- JMTC's S42 turbo
- RPM stage 3 tune
- DDM intake with hood scoop
- 1-step colder spark plugs

MY QUESTION IS:
Can my current mods support the intended upgrade WITHOUT CHANGING OUT MY STOCK CAT-BACK EXHAUST? I'm asking this because I really don't want a noisy car, don't want the pops-n-bangs either. The way the stock MCS sounds is already a bit on the loud side for me, and letting it go any louder would ruin my quiet life. I even plan to add a 100-cell high flow catalytic converter to the CNT DP section to take out some element of that noise. Thanks fellers!

 

We (Mario and I) tried that with mine. It didn't work. Map C worked fine, but when I switched to the stock map, map A or map B the motor would sputter and die as though it wasn't getting fuel. Made it pretty exciting when I switched maps at a stop light.

 

Yes your exhaust should be fine. I’m running a catless DP, and have the 2nd cat and resonator removed. But still running the factory muffler. It’s on the loud side, but with cats and resonator in place, as long as you get a hi-flo cat, you should be just fine.
I was set to get my tune with the 2nd cat and resonator in place, but ended up getting rid of them the day before I met up with Mario.

 

Thanks for the valuable input, Grumps. That puts me in a much better state of mind in regards to the upcoming mods. I think RPM stage 3 tune plus the S42 turbo will be plenty fun. I'm not looking for all out power, but I'd like to go right below the major mods and still manage to have something to play with, staying close to stock. Seems like you got quite a setup there on your own. Thanks bro.

 

It is a lot of fun! Thanks. With that turbo and Mario’s tune, I think you will be all smiles!
It gets up and goes when I want it to! But is still very nice for daily driving too

 

I'm running RPM Stage 3 now, Wagner comp FMIC, S42. Catless DP into stock s exhaust.

230 whp, 270lbft. 20 PSI, now at 9000 miles with this setup.

Swapping exhausts could surely gain some power but I don't think the extra noise is worth it in a Daily R59.

 

Thanks for your input Claviger. This is exactly the info I'm looking for. Once I complete the big step with RPM stage 3 tune and the S42 turbo, I'll play it by the ears and see how all that goes. If I must put an exhaust in by any means, I may consider CNT since lots of my research pointed to this exhaust for being quiet. And I may even play with adding a high-flow cat-converter onto the CNT cat-back also. At least I hear the cat-converter can dial out some exhaust droning. QuickSilver exhaust is another good quiet candidate, but it costs a bit much more.

The bottom line is that I really like to reach FBO power without going into turbos larger than the 42mm turbine. At the same time, I hope to keep it quiet, no drones, and only growl a bit when I get on the pedal. At least in the F10 535i I drive it's quite powerful without much noise.

 

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I figured I'd drop some of my lessons learned here.

Before you install the turbo, get a mechanical boost gauge. The OBDII based apps, scanners and devices rely on the MAP sensor. on the Cooper S the MAP sensor will not read pressure above 22.4 PSI. An OBDII based gauge will only display 22.4 while in reality a much higher PSI is being pushed through your system. A mechanical boost gauge will show you exactly how much PSI you are pulling. This will save you a costly engine replacement.

Also, your tuner is probably recommending ARP connecting rod bolts. Do this now. Do not put this off until later. Do not wait until you shoot a piston onto the sidewalk. It's an inexpensive upgrade that can potentially save you a lot of money down the road.

Lastly, before installing the turbo, make sure that the wastegate actuator lock nuts are set properly. Sometimes they arrive out tolerance and need to be adjusted. Make sure you have spare banjo bolts for the oil feed line, coolant feed line and coolant return line. Most of the install kits don't include all of those, and it really sucks when the oil feed line banjo bolt snaps in half at 11:55 on a Saturday night.

 

Some good lessons here. I'm using a P3 but would 100% endorse the mechanical gauge recommendation if going over 21 PSI.

 

Thanks a lot for the great advise here, Scotty. I may not go ahead with the rod bolts simply because I'm really not pushing that hard with a stage 3 tune and a S42 turbo, please comment on this statement if I should still be concerned, I like to learn and understand more.

In regards to the mechanical boost gauge, can you point out some useful links or give me some good pointers to how to get this done? I'm quite mechanically inclined and savvy. On my 09 MCS, I've fixed bent valves, burnt valves, and most any other work on and above the head level already. Before I re-build everything back in, I also took the head to the machine shop at my work and did some porting and polishing on both intake and exhaust ports to take out some kinks and increase the overall flow port in the head. That's about as far as my ability can reach. However, this is my first turbo car, and I've been making sure the car is mechanically sound before I go on with the modifications. And with turbo charged application, that's where I'm a bit lacking in knowledge and expertise. Hearing what you mentioned, I want to move onto installing a mechanical gauge, and I think I've seen someone using an Alta gauge fitting to T-off that setup. Where/how do I best acquire the electrical setup, is there an easy and optimized way of doing so?

On spare banjo's, I have plenty of those and extra sets of gaskets, o-rings, washers for turbo plumbing. Those are readily covered.

Really appreciate the valuable input, guys. This forum is great and I'm loving it!

 

There is some really good advice up there from Scotty r56.
If Mario is doing your tune, I’m sure he did or will recommend the ARP rod bolts. I have not done them yet and it seems like it’s always hovering in the back of my mind while I’m driving. I plan to do them as soon as I can this summer, after I get some things squared away with/for the GrumpyFamily first. But if you can do it right now, then do it! Never anything wrong with strengthening them up preventatively.
Enjoy it! And keep us updated on your progress.

 

As for the gauge, I absolutely agree they are necessary. I don’t use a fully mechanical one though. I have a Prosport EVO digital boost/vacuum gauge. It has a digital gauge face, but uses a boost tap just like a mechanical gauge. The small hose is connected to a sending unit that converts it to a digital signal (roughly, I’m no expert). ECS Tuning among others carry them.
As for getting power to them, I like to use a simple fuse tap. It’s quick easy and does not require you to splice into a wire somewhere under the dash or the cigarette lighter or whatever. They are only a couple of dollars.
here is what they look like.

There is a regular size and a mini. I like the mini for obvious reasons, but also because it fits under the fuse box cover better.

 

This is great! Thanks Grumpy.

 

quick question on the JMTC S42 Turbo install... can you run this turbo without an u/g downpipe? I know its not optimum but I just dont want to go into limp mode. I will be getting a tune and catless soon (6 months) I already have an u/g intercooler, intake and u/g hoses. buying colder plugs in the next week. The stock turbo on my S was damaged in an accident so mini dealer is putting it in.

 

You won't go into limp mode, just get a CEL. I wouldn't be hammering on it unless you get retuned though, because the car won't be able to trim the AFR properly with no cat on a stock tune.

 

Right now I have the stock dp in. Maybe I'll lower the boost pressure until the upgrade. Anyone know the stock turbo pressure psi? Max without getting a cel

 

Bit late to the show on this thread, but when does lag start to become an issue? Would a 45/60 compressor wheel be pushing it or does the extra mm not make any noticeable difference?
Only looking for 240whp from my N18s with upgraded IC, exhaust, clutch and lightened flywheel. Light daily use and fair amount of track.