Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain New MCS Owner needing guidance for reliability modifications

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  #1  
Old 07-27-2018, 09:45 PM
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New MCS Owner needing guidance for reliability modifications

I just got a 2009 MCS R57. I could use some advice from experienced owners on recommended upgrades. I wouldn't mind adding a exhaust for the sound and modest power gains... but other then that, when driven hard I feel fine with the stock motor's power (for now at least)... However I want to be able to drive the car hard with out killing the longevity of the factory engine,

What parts and part maker would you recommend to preserve the motors life span when frequently driven aggressively?

 

Last edited by brycewise11; 07-27-2018 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 07-28-2018, 06:09 AM
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Use good syn oil & change by 5K miles.
 
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:05 AM
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citroen / peugeot
says ever 2500 to 3000
they clam that’s why
mini was having so many problems
with the n14
Direct injection is rough on oil consumption .
But don’t let that fool you
they are pretty bulletproof power plants
As long as you take care of them .
A lot of mini owners fall flat in the area.

As as far as performance goes
builled your self a good intake set up.
I pulled the hood scoop off
an cut away a lot of the hood underneath
to get more air flow in.
there’s a lot a little things you can do just depends on your ability


I postEd a few photos below,
i should have got a photo of how much I cut out
but I think you can tell the difference
with the scoop
I do have a bigger turbo 47mm
 

Last edited by BigBoost; 08-09-2018 at 08:14 AM.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:10 AM
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Old 08-21-2018, 08:36 AM
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One of the weaknesses of the N14 is the propensity to have carbon buildup in the intake ports and on the back of the valves. This can affect performance and reliability (in extreme cases). I would recommend having the ports cleaned every 25k miles or so.

And watch for leaks. Thermostat housing, water pump, oil filter housing, valve cover.

Have fun,
Mike
 
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Old 08-28-2018, 07:36 PM
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Oil catch can, best if you do one on the crankcase inlet through PCV, then another one from crank case to the intake cold tube. It'll slow down your carbon build-up to the valves. It's a modification and it most fits under the category "reliability". Another good mod is the larger FMIC upgrade, ebay has them for less than 180 bucks. You probably won't "gain" anything, but it certainly keeps the charged air consistently cooler than the stock inter-cooler.

Other than that, before you go modding for gains, please be very observant on the car while still in stock form. There are several stock issues if you don't catch it in time, the result could be quite catastrophic. Timing chain death rattle, severe oil/coolant leaks near the turbo charger, oil pump, high pressure fuel pump, etc. Once you're confident on it's stock form reliability, then most light upgrades won't be taxing you greatly in terms of post-modification reliability.

I spent almost a year learning this car (also an used 09 N14 MCS). Now I'm just about to go on to modding.
 
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Old 08-29-2018, 09:19 AM
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I 2nd the oil catch can.
 
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Old 08-29-2018, 09:48 AM
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I had an OCC for years on my 08. With the intake side port plugged, I got lots of fluid (winter time I had to drain the can weekly). After I removed the plug on the intake side there was much less trapped.

That being said, I still needed to have the ports blasted every 25-30k.

Mike
 
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:41 PM
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I got the blasting kit and a 20-gal air compressor. I blast the valves on every other oil change now. I took the oil catch cans off because of my relentless urge to blast those valves. So yeah, it's really up to you. Without the oil catch cans (both), I get very oily valves on every oil change (5,000-6,000 mi interval), not gunked yet, just visibly oily. So on one change, I'd spray it down with carb cleaner, on next change, I'd blast those valves and get that slight bit of built gunk out. I cannot imagine for those of you without the oil catch cans and just kept driving the car for more than 40k miles without blasting the valves. Carbon build up surely will tax the car's performance. On very badly gunk build-up, it'll cause drivability problems.
 
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