Wonder how much difference the other mods will make. Catless DP, big intercooler, CAI, straight pipe.

 

As soon as I get my IC on Im heading to a dyno. I cant wait

 

I just got in the last part I was waiting on Today (my Miltek DP with sports cat).

Now I am ready to get everything installed planning on having it done Friday (end of the week cant come fast enough).

I will be installing all the following in 1 go:

Forge Intercooler
Miltek DP
AWE Cold Air Intake
NGK Colder Spark Plugs
ByteTronik Tune

Hopefully all goes as planned.

 

Our Mini's will be almost twins

Are you doing it all yourself? Hopefully, you can get it done but the DP is about 5hrs and the IC about 3ish

Save some time and install the intake and plugs yourself. They are extremely easy to do. There is a spark plug tutorial in the FAQ. Both combined will take you about an hour

 

Hey Vinnie,

If you need a hand installing the IC let me know I am always free to help out. I do maintenance/custom fab for a living and have done IC's before just on R56s.

 

Thats awesome! Thanks, man!

 

No I am taking the Mini to a BMW/MINI performance mechanic for the Intercooler and the Down Pipe.

I originally planned on doing the Intercooler myself but I knew I would need assistance on the downpipe. In the end figured Id just let the mechanic do those both.

On and your spot on I was quoted $700 installed for both ($80 discount) and the install time was just as you put it

DP = 5Hrs
Inter cooler = 2.8 Hrs


For the rest of the stuff (Intake, SparkPlugs, Tune) I will be doing that myself later that day after I get the car back.


Did your Intercooler come in yet?

Its a bit heavier than I thought it would be

 

I know right! I was shocked by the weight of it. It got delivered to my work, literally outside my office, so I had to move it. I tried to kick it away with my foot and damn near blew my knee out

 

It's confirm, the Airtec Group Buy is a "GO"... Order cut-off date is March 11, 2018.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-s-models.html

 

Just paid my invoice. Looking forward to receiving my IC and installing it.

 

Have a F56S w/JCW Tune Kit + NM Module. Realistically what is the BT tune doing differently from the JCW tune? ie it would seem the boost pressures are going to basically be the same as I have now so it just comes down to how the boost builds and the end timing/air fuel.

Seems like a few of you have gone from my mods to the BT but can anyone explain them using actual descriptions of the driving dynamics rather than a v8 metaphor provided on page 9?

 

The piggyback, essentially trick the MAF to increase boost, torque, etc...

A full flash is a complete remap of the ECU so everything is programmed in, not being tricked

I tried my best to explain the difference on the last page, Post 221

 

I'll also chime in on the "how". Disclaimer: I am not a tuner, I just read lots and lots of stuff. Not the same thing at all.

A piggyback unit does its thing by supplying false data to the ECU. In simpler units, it just intercepts and replaces the pressure reading downstream of the turbo. In more complex ones, such as Dinan Elite or aFe Scorcher GT, multiple signals are intercepted and replaced. Dinan's Elite, for example, adjusts short-term fuel trim and ignition timing as well as tinkering with the boost data.

But still… consider that Dinan Elite processes and modifies signals 4000 times per second. Sounds impressive, but at 6000rpm, that's just 40 signals per revolution, or one per 9º of crankshaft rotation. So clearly there are some limits on how precisely ignition timing can be adjusted. (Granted that's nearly worst case. And it takes around 72–80º of rotation for combustion to complete. Still.)

The "tune", instead of tricking the ECU, instead adjusts the ECU's target parameters: torque target, fuel-air mixture target, and fuel pressure. The ECU already knows how to do these things – Bytetronik's tune changes what the ECU is trying to do.

I suspect a lot of the performance comes from changing the fuel-air mixture. Lean combustion provides better efficiency and emissions, so most manufacturers run their engines as lean as they safely can. Add more fuel, though, and you get more power – and cooler combustion. Paradoxically, you not only make more power but you are lowering the chance of pre-detonation. Now that's what I call a win. In any case, most engines react well to a slightly richer mixture. (Which is why if you end up behind a clutch of Ducatis, it'll smell like a freaking gas station. We all richen up the mix for more power, and throw unburnt fuel out the tail pipes.)

(It's also worth remembering that catalytic converters expect to get "perfect" combustion products. Extra unburned fuel isn't really great for them. Another reason that manufacturers err on the side of lean.)

The skill on the part of the tuner is in setting these targets appropriately for the environment they'll be used in, maintaining safety in the form of adequate margins for error, and ensuring good drivability. (Ever watch a video of an AWD Audi or Subie spinning all four wheels? Too much power too fast is a problem too.)

Well. This is all as I understand it. If I'm incorrect, well, this is the Internet. Someone will come along and tell me how wrong I am.

And, hopefully, Bytetronik will fill in any gaps I've left or things I've misstated.

 

Got 8 paid orders. Interested members contact us soon

 

@bratling Great explanation

 

I appreciate the responses and I get piggyback vs. a tune - i do custom cobb tuning on my GTR/911TT both...

My question is moreso - with my existing JCW Tune/NM Module my understanding is that there will be approximetly no power gains to be had by going to the BE...

So i'm just asking if anyone that has gone from JCW Kit + NM to BE tune has any real world drivers feedback on the car/how it builds boost, etc.

Because right now 895.00 is a lot considering for me personally - it won't net noticeable HP/TQ. Quoting MotoringFun.com's dyno numbers (i'm running identical setup):

NM-Equipped MINI:
Wheel Horsepower: 235.60 whp
Wheel Torque: 268.74 ft-lbs
Crank Horsepower: 263.87 bhp
Crank Torque: 300.99 ft-lbs

So if i'm spending 895.00 for no power over my current setup - can anyone explain to me if there are any significant differences they feel in the drive ability of their cars.

Not trying to s**t on anyone - sounds like the BE stuff is awesome. It's just most people are reviewing it from the standpoint of a stock car rather than going from an already tuned setup.

Thanks for your help!

 

Check out post # 201 on this thread. Minnie Vinnie does a good job of describing his experience of going from the basic Sport tuner (Dinan, but essentially same as NM) to the full ECU tune. Vetsvette went from the NM to the full tune as well. I'm sure he would have a lot to report.

Some folks have gone Sport Tuner to Dinan Elite to Full Tune. I have stayed with the basic single input box and feel I'm getting the extra boost I want. But those who have gone up the chain feel improved drivability and more seamless onset of the extra power are both noticeable and desirable. Also, some landed on Dinan Elite for warranty reasons. And we all know that a full ECU tune leaves it's mark if there's every a warranty issue.

One thing for sure, the simple boxes can't deal with the subtle fueling adjustments that a full tune can facilitate. For some, especially those who like to flog their cars hard, the long-term benefits of better fuel mix optimization and fast timing adjustment are reason enough to justify the extra $$$.

FWIW, I think these new BMW engines are darned robust, and the quickness of the electronic management systems that come with the cars should keep us basic box guys well within safe parameters. But not as elegantly as the full tune or the Dinan Elite options.

A fully-integrated tune is like a well-tuned professional symphony. As opposed to a really good high school orchestra, which is the basic NM or Dinan box. They both make music, but the trained ear appreciates many subtle differences that enhance the enjoyment of listening to the professional symphony -- especially the more complex the music.

Hope that helps.

 

You are in a special situation, you chained a factory ECU tune with a piggyback. Not sure how the JCW tune affects AFR and timing but I'd imagine it still errs on the mpg side versus performance. 3rd party tunes are a little more on the performance side but still with a built-in safety margin. The basic piggybacks just run the engine farther up the stock boost curve (and associated AFR/timing maps) whereas a tune can remap all those parameters and even change things like throttle maps and amount of pops/bangs (all the way to shooting flames). If you are sticking with stock IC, DP, plugs then the gains to be had either way are about the same. If you change all those out you can hit 300hp and gobs of torque with the 2L pretty easily it seems.

 

Both Mini_Vinnie and myself had the JCW Tune + piggyback. I had NM and Vinnie had the Dinan Sport. We both went with the ByteTronic Tune and have no regrets whatsoever. I'm a little skeptical of the recent dyno charts posted on the thread because I know there is a marked increase in power since the BT tune. This is based solely on my fine tuned butt (calibrated recently) dyno and the amount of wheelspin when accelerating. In May I'll be doing some pulls on the dyno at MOTD. I'll post the official results at that time for my car. I'm sure Vinnie will agree with me about the increase in power compared to JCW Tune + piggyback.

 

Ok that's exactly what I wanted to know. I appreciate the input!

 

Yep, couldn't agree more. I would definitely add this to my must do mod list.

It's so hard to try and quantify how it feels. Its one of those things you really need to trust the people before you and just do it. You definitely won't be disappointed. The smoothness of the power increase it just awesome.

 

I too am a PiggyBack convert. I have the JCW tune from the factory from the day I drove my MINI home, it's the Carbon Edition 4 door model so it was equipped with the JCW tune and exhaust from the start.

I used the NM module for a awhile until Dinan came out with tier Sport plug in. I switched to Dinan since I had good experience with them in the past. Not a ton of difference between the two, other than the Dinan app allowing you to control the setting instead on the rear of the NM module. Then Dinan released the Elite piggyback and I upgraded from the Sport. Their was a noticeable increase in response, the car felt faster and responded slightly better.

After reading about the BT ECU tune and doing my own research I decided to give it a shot. And WOW it makes the car so much better. I have over 2,000 miles on the ECU tune and have had zero issues. In the simplest terms the piggyback units "react" to the inputs you make, where the ECU doesn't need to react or trick anything, so the inputs are seamless. With the piggybacks I always felt what I called "hiccups" where the car just skipped a beat, no bucking or bouncing just a slight feel on something different. That is completely gone with the ECU tune. The car has what feels like a ton more power and pulls like crazy, you don't need Sport Mode, but when you do, it's even more fun.

I hope this helps.

 

To put it in simplistic terms:

I'm sure everyone will agree with how smooth a stock tune is. Lacking in power but incredibly smooth.

The BT tune feels like it came straight from Mini. That is how smooth it is, it just has a ton more power.

If someone sat in your car that wasn't wise to tunes, piggybacks, etc they would think it was stock, that is how good the BT tune feels.

 

Just wanted to post back my impressions on the tune.

The last time I posted I put that I was planning on installing all parts about 2 weeks ago now but I ran into a small hickup.

When the down-pipe was being installed a small rubber seal had some oil on it (that wasnt supposted to be there). This rubber seal basically ballooned and so things were not able to go back on properly after the dp was installed. A new one had to be ordered so (thankfully its cheap) so it set me back a few days.


Now to to good stuff.


I was able to do the following this weekend:

• Remove JB4
• Remove NM-Eng Intake
• Remove and Re-Install SprintBooster (Ill explain more futher down)
• Install Colder NGK Spark Plugs
• Install AWS Intake
• Install Tune

The tune is amazing and if anyone is on the fence I highly recommend getting it. I think its been said before but the best way I can describe it is like it came from the factory that way. Basically performs like a stock car with a lot more power and torque (very very smooth).

When you install the tune don't be alarmed as tons of messages flash across your dash during the flashing process. Lol it freaked me out a bit at first. All in took about 10 mins to flash and I had my car hooked up to a battery charger I purchased on Amazon. Once done with that I followed the remaining instructions and also flashed my vehicle specific coding data (very important you back that up first before starting anything) and cleared any error codes (since mine is automatic it gets a transmission error by default that you must clear. Its listed in the instructions) and then everything was happy.

Just starting the car I noticed no differences but once I took it for a spin that's when I could tell.

I also personally ended up adding back my Sprint Booster throttle re-mapper as I like the trigger hair feel of the gas pedal in Race Mode on the sprint booster. So the tune + sprint booster was the winning combo for me personally and I am very happy with the product and support I have received from Mike and his team over at Bytetronik.


Guess its time to now start looking at some chasis stiffening parts to give me a bit better turn in.

 

My Auto with tune in sport mode has a very responsive throttle, I find it hard to want it to be even more responsive. How would you describe the sprint booster vs sport throttle?

I feel like anymore responsiveness would just create wheel spin.