Thanks!

 

The two videos in the previous post was the second day of the two consecutive track day that Desire partook. The Saturday was the race day as well as a fund raising event for a local children's hospital. The event also give little kids a chance to ride in exotic and race cars. The HPDE that we drove in was a late addition taking advantage of the well clockwork accurate schedule. There were 4 R53 Mini's and we all have driven together before, though often not all together so this was a special occasion. There is only one run group so the drivers and cars capability are quite diverse.

we were the earliest ones to arrive and found this spot that can fit all four Mini's; we called it Mini corral

the other two Mini's - one was helping out the event

a bundle of Mini's are OK in the Mini Corral ; make no mistake, we are frenemies so a shootout is in the whelm of possibilities




Desire snagged a front spot in the grid just behind two very fast M3s - we were waiting for tech inspection

this gorgeous Datsun would go off track quite early in the session and not to be seen again



all 4 R53s at the grid


this is an instructor's Miata

a Corvette engine powered RX7 - the owner told me with the Corvette drivetrain it saves about 100 lb




it has a Camero 6-speed gearbox





no shortage of rare cars for the charity event





little kids getting rides in race and exotic cars

this is how all four brand new tyres look after the two days of track driving of about 230 miles - total of seven 20-minute sessions


Unfortunately I have no good in car video from the GoPro. It kept stopping recording as the battery charge was low, and the thermal override must kick in because of the temperature got too high recording HD video while the battery charging at the same time.

 

 

We have a nice group of R53 here that regulars at PIR. The best part is our cars are all very close with very little drivetrain mods. Strangely I have yet to see a JCW on track. In total I have seen 8 R53s and 1 R50 at PIR. There are a few R56s but not that regular. Additionally there is a monster Mini built on a R50 or R50 chassis by RMW with no expense spared.

This post should have been written as the first in these few posts on this past week's 2 days of fun and excitement for Desire and me - the handler of the wild-at-heart beast. What are new are the RE71Rs and SS caliper pistons. As the tyres were new I reminded myself to not push them too hard. Also the uncharted territory also was the cost-reduced tyre mounting and balancing. To be honest, I tactfully asked them why they only put weight on the inboard side when the machine clearly indicate the outside requires weight? Scott the owner said they only do so if it exceed a certain limit. I told them my wheels are for PIR and he said they serve PIR youngsters all the time and have no issue. I didn't want to push too hard. I will work with them in repeat business. When I drive the Mini on the road with the new tyres, I can tell there is some vibration. It can be the balancing, but more likely other factors. Driving at PIR the tyres and steering wheel are as smooth as any, and I had switched front with back between the two days.

So how did the SS caliper piston work out? The difference is no more boiling Motul 600 fluid. I used to measure as high as 600F on the caliper body near the outer brake pad, now I measure 300ish F after a cooling lap. I am quite sure boiling fluid is behind us with this and I should be able to use the more reasonably Wilwood fluid purchased in bulk.

For completeness sake here are the videos on all 4 sessions of the first of the two days driving fun, in reverse chronology. There was a bad apple driver who should not had been in the run group. Everyone else were just great and we all had a great cool day at the track. Desire was the only Mini in this HPDE day.

session 4/4:


session 3/4:


session 2/4:


session 1/4:

During this HPDE day half way through the day, I begun to add a 3-4 up and 4-3 down shifts between turn 3 and 4 rather than coasting after bouncing off the rev limiter at the end of the short stretch between these two turns. This is one show stoppers for my consideration of going with 15" wheels from the current 16", or run a mix of both.

While I best my previous best time by 1s, I can see that I am still leaving much on the table on many turns. I can clearly see the potential time shaving if I acquire the skill of left foot braking. I am extremely glad that I resisted the temptation of more aggressive engine mode before I improve my own driving skill. So far Desire is bone stock only has the 15% pulley, and no tune nor bigger injectors.

 

Ouch! There is one other problem signing up with this club's HPDE. It trusts you are not a bad debt. It does not charge your fee until you already had your fun, or ruin (if you crashed ) until a few days after the event. In the case you charge to your CC like me, only a month later that you go WTF? I didn't spend that money.

My good neighbour Tony came out on the second day to watch me. He also introduced me to his friend who races with a Porsche 914 *** 916. He thinks I am a OK.

Mini's brakes, suspension, and tyres are quite well sorted now. No front end shakes braking from 110+ MPH, no mushy brake pedal sinking to the floor trying to slow from 100+ MPH. I am thoroughly impressed with the Swift and Koni Yellow combo on both on road and on track. The Black Powerflex front bushings was a wise choice that delivers razor sharp steering feedback. The front and back wheels can use a bit more negative camber to go easier on the typres. Mini is such a riot to drive flat out in a closed course. It is like a fast Miata with the drive wheels on the wrong end. The guy that played with me on a rental white Spec Miata with slicks sold his highly modified WRX and thinks highly of the Gen 1 Miata. He rents it for like $300 a day for running on the track, which is quite a bargain according to him.

 

I went and found this video on the same track merely 12 months ago. This was just before I had an instructor rode with me and pointed out that I wasn't using all the track. He also pointed out that I didn't need to downshift into the 2nd at the chicane since the SC engine has enough torque down low. Those were the advises that I needed. My driving in that video is now hard to watch.

this video is from 12 months ago last August

this video is from the last session this past week

While I drive much better now, I can see countless places for improvement:

1. I can brake less hard at a number of turn-in points in successive turns.
2. I trail braking too aggressively between turn 1 and 2.
3. I brake too hard entering turn 4. I would have better speed by delaying downshift from 4th to 3rd just a bit later.
4. I could carry higher speed in the double-apex turn 4.
5. I could carry higher speed entering turn 10.
6. I could accelerate harder between turn 10 and 11, and brake less hard setting up for 12.

Oh, boy. I can now see clearly the potential time to shave off if I acquire the art of left foot braking. Coasting waste time even during transitioning from braking to accelerating.

 

I have been very stressed with the thought that my supercharger's PTO would fail anytime while driving flat out on track. I service the SC only a few months ago to check the oil front and back. To my horror the PTO gearbox was bone dry. Not one drop of oil came out. Fearing not having a gasket and it was uncharted territory at the time I dare not open up the PTO housing to check the conditions of the gear. It was partly I was pressed in time having track events the next few days. It was something I came to regret of not doing.

It has been about 5 track events and I am very worry that the PTO gears might just grind themselves to death and stop turning the water pump. When that happens the engine would overheat and most likely it would be too late when I notice it. I have seen horror in photos that the inside of the PTO looks like coffee grinds - more like espresso grind. I stop signing up for more track days this season because of this concern. I planned to pull the SC again, and get to the bottom of the screaming noise. This time I would open the PTO housing to check, and I am totally expecting horrors inside. I already psychologically set aside $1200 to have it rebuilt by autoXcooper.

I think in NA this is the SC rebuild place to go for Eaton M45

a typical PTO gear failure from lubrication starvation; I call it espresso grind




The first step is fact-finding. This time I am going to open the PTO gearbox housing and see for myself.



I can't believe that I wasted so much time in a pissing contest with another NAM member on the ills of worm screw hose clamps; to me it is clear as day the OE spring clamp is the best especially in confined quarters like in our Mini's



catching as much coolant as possible


removing these spring clamps with a right tool is as easy as pie



I am getting like a pro now; these spring clamps can be reused indefinitely countless times



so are these air hose clamps


it took me a few time to figure out how to remove this snorkel; it is really very well designed for serviceability, contrary to all the complaints


if you take time to study removing the plastic charge pipe can be done without any damage; patience and attention to details are my friends



I am expecting the PTO gearbox to be bone dry again this time, and ready for the coffee grind from the two gears chewing each other to death.

I got the SC out before noon on a 90+ F day



drain the PTO gear oil to check how much is left inside



to my surprise just about the same amount I put in a few months ago came out - I followed Mod Mini and I thought why he put in so little; the oil is quite dark which I am not surprised due to it ran bone dry for a long time; BTW "due to it ran bone dry for a long time" is grammatically incorrect, and my hi-skool english teacher would roll in her grave "because of" is just too much typing even for my touch typing.



So I proceeded to open the PTO gearbox this time. I now know there is no gasket. The two half is sealed by virtual of precision machined surfaces.

to my amazement the gear teeth are like new! hardly any signs of wear at all



the big gear as well as the shaft surface that rides on the needle bearing has zero trace of wear



so is the teeth on the smaller gear; here is the needle bearing for the large gear that the PTO output shaft rides on




There is nothing else to inspect. I am satisfied of what I see. I suspect the high pitch noise is likely the rear rotor bearing that had been deprived of lubricant. This time I am going to put in more SC oil than what Mod Mini did. I judge it by the volume of the PTO gear housing. I put in about 3 oz which is all I have. To be safe I added another 1 oz of the old oil that I drain out. I am never one that got hung up on old oil. The worst is not enough oil rather than less than virgin oil. I also make a point of let the SC stand on the side so the oil can get to the bearings inside the SC scroll housing.

I decided to play safe and not to rely on the machine surfaces for a good seal. I apply gasket maker for gearbox to the mating surface before closing the two halves back up. I have reason to believe the reason the PTO gearbox was bone dry may actually due to the low viscosity oil leaked out of the machined mating surface rather than the shaft seal design defect in my case. Which was the cause I would never know.






I should add that last time I inspected the condition of the two scrolls. As they are coated with Teflon mash together with very little air space any sign of bearing wear would cause the scrolls to touch and wear out the coating. There was no sign of coating wear so I reckon the bearings are all in good condition.

 

Nice work as always. Preventative maintenance is the preferred process for keeping the car ready to go.

We will definitely tackle this soon. The supercharger is in an unknown state since we purchased back on 2016 so the plan is to do the service in the next couple of months. Who knows what we will find!

 

Thanks.

I gave more thought on the conjecture that the PTO gearbox was bone dry due to the shaft seal of the smaller gear failure. It hold no water for me. Why? Mine was bone dry when I last service a few months ago. If the shaft seal failed and the oil was suck out by vacuum there should still be some left. One can see the bottom of the shelf is well above the bottom of the casing. My theory is the machine mating surface did not form a tight enough seal, and the low viscosity oil leaked out given enough time.




BTW, I think the precious GM SC oil is a scam. I bet you any single weight non-detergent SAE oil will work just as well, if not better.

 

Please let us know if adding the extra oil cures the screaming noise. I have the same sound and changed my SC oil as per Mod Mini this last winter. My PTO side was bone dry as well. I have changed almost every pulley on the motor thinking that was my issue but I believe it is the SC. Great post as always!

 

I am no professional mechanic but a damn good shade tree wanna be. Having inspected the PTO gears this time I am now very sure where the screaming is from. The two ball bearings for the scrolls at PTO side. I infer they are lubricated by the PTO housing oil, so bone dry will lead to them dying prematurely. I will deal with mine when the track season is over.

I was hoping adding more oil will work their way to those bearing, but no luck even after I stand the SC on the side to encourage oil to work into there. At least I know now my SC and PTO are still all good.

 

 

Leading out from turn 12 has little room for error. I have to be very consistent with the max speed in the turn and modulate the throttle and know when to mash the pedal slightly past or at the apex. My highest max speed per iPhone's GPS is 54 MPH. It isn't the exit speed after the apex though which is ever increasing. Have you track your e30 this season?

 

 

I am back! Just completed a cross country road trip and the butt still hurts from sitting for hours on end. Just in time to catch the live stream of the 3rd day of Goodwood Revival.

 

a foto of the road train taken on the return trip in Wyoming




this trailer is every thing I expected seeing it in person; it is a bit shocking of how big it is

 

 

are you happy with those straight vane rotors? I cracked my expensive set of J hook rotors this weekend, they only lasted 5 days on the track. Unfortunately no better than the wilwood curved vane I've used before.

 

Seeing it in person I now see why it is the open trailer of choice for Porsche, BMW, and Vett owners. The basic design remains largely unchanged for over a decade except incremental refinements. They hold their value very well, and especially in the West coast where the shipping delivery cost is prohibitively high due to the width.

It tows like a dream empty. Only my T1N Sprinter motorhome is very underpowered by American standard. It weights 8000 lbs by itself and the 2.7L 5-cyl turbo diesel struggles pulling hills as well as headwind. At circa 1100 lb the trailer feels nothing on the flat but pulling a 6% grade means winching that much more weight against the mighty gravity. The trailer is very smooth and stable empty. Very little tugging at all.

The Sprinter's GVWR of 8500 lb and 5000 lb towing capacity is optimistic at best. I expect with a 3000 lb car I will be using granny gears a lot pulling hills. That will be about 13,000 lb of combined weight taxing a 154 HP/243 ft-lb engine.

154 Horsepower @ 3800 RPM
Torque 243 lb-ft @ 1600-2400 RPM

 

I am still on the original set of rotors. I expect them to eventually crack just like all rotors before the pads wear them out. My thought is to buy Wilwood's cheap straight vane rotor and treat them as consumable. My left front has more crazing than right front due to the CW track. I consider flipping the two to spread the pain but so far haven't bother. In have a set of replacement rotors ready.

 

 

 

The advertised trailer empty is about 900 lb. 1100 lb is my estimate taking into account of the optional extra like spare wheel, tire rack, winch mount, storage box, plus the trailer tongue dolly. It is the lightest trailer of its usable size out there. Towing with the Jeep you need to concern with the relative weights of the towing and the towed for braking and turn stability. A lot of porsche owners tow with Macan. The other thing to keep in mind is the tow specs. It is best to stay within the specs for legal reasons.

 

A hair under $40 ea shipped! They are 12.18".

 

A few fotos of the road train. It is a shock to realize the length of space needed to load and unload a car.





the 11-foot long ramps afford excellent approach angle; the Porsche is going to need every bit of it due to greater front overhang


I drove Desire - the trailer queen up the ramps by myself without a spotter for the first time


the narrow and tall AL storage box fits a HF track jack; I am going to get a pair of AL jack stands too


Placing the Mini on the trailer for weight distribution turns out to be very difficult due to the FWD front weight bias. I may have to back it up the trailer bed instead to manage proper tongue weight.