Were you straight line braking or working on trailbraking? Also, what did the car do that you didn’t like and when did it do it (eg: while you were braking; releasing the brake; after the brakes were released)?

 

Braking on front straight very late before the chicane at turn 1 and 2. I used to trail brake between 1 and 2 and that seemed a good thing.

I have been braking very hard and late this season and releasing the brake for turnin into 1 seem a bit of a problem. May be I just have too much speed from 1 to 2 so I will try trail breaking lightly.

I think my turn 12 speed is lower this season as I go from 4th into 3rd. I have been thinking about it and I need to finished downshift before the turn in point at 12. This is the most treacherous turn at PIR because of the tire walls.

 

Is the car wanting to step out on the back end when your release the brake going into T1? Or is it doing something else?

 

I recommend some Titanium shims For your wilwoods, To try and reduce the heat transfer from the pads to the pistons to the fluid. Should help with melting boots too. I chatted with the seller on ebay, top notch seller. Going to buy some for the other car.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Titanium-Br....c100011.m1850

 

I boiled the Motul 600 dry temp before getting the titanium shims. Since then I have been gentler on the brakes as I gotten used to much more crab. I wanted to see each improvement for myself. I cannot say how much the titanium shims help, but I suspect much less than they sound. I have one more step which I haven't install - stainless steel pistons.



So far I try to make one improvement at a time, and seeing the incremental performance has been very educational.

 

Kinda sucks that wilwood doesn't have SS pistons. Do they sell them seperatly?

 

Yep! You can buy the specially kitted Wilwood from TCE, or buy the SS pistons after the fact. Still Wilwood brake kit is one of the cheapest on the market and made (or assembled) in USA. Speaking of which, I observe a lot of high end coilovers are really assembled in USA with Chinese made parts. I watched a video and can see the stockroom full of Chinese carton boxes. They did take care to peel off the labels for the video shoot.

 

Wilwood does sell the calipers for the MINI with SS pistons and no dust shields for use on the track and racing:
https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Cal...temno=120-8538


TCE calls his kit with that caliper it the "TRACK kit". He calls the Wilwood version he sells the "STREET kit". He also kits his BBKs with the correct brake lines with right angle for attachment to the caliper.

 

I have these SS pistons since I installed the titanium shims. I bought the titanium shims not so much because of the precious metal, but more because unlike Wilwood pad shims that are adhesive back and single use. These are multi-use and will last as long as there is little abrasion between the piston face and the shim.

I haven't install the SS pistons for two reason:

• I want to see how much the shims retard racing fluid boiling.
• I didn't want the newly installed Motul 600 goes to waste. My money don't grow on trees.

I have never used brake caliper compound before. I only clean off any surface oxide on metal to metal contact. I recently bought a can of CRC brake compound. I proceed to apply it on the left front caliper, pads, and shims. I immediately thought this messy business cannot be good. When I inspected the pads on the passenger side, I decided to skip the messy business.

A track day later and I've done in the BP-30 racing pads that has seen 4 track days. When replacing the pads on the driver side, the wunderbar CRC brake compound is no where to be found. No more sticky mess, and just some ash like residue. I am actually glad they turn to ash as CRC want me to buy their specially formulated caliper cleaning fluid to clean off the mess, and then replenish with renewed mess.

I know from now on I am going back to my old habit of keeping the caliper parts dry and clean. The only wetness is in the piston cylinders.

 

The above post just about killed me thinking about the number of cylinders in my Mini that aspires to be full time track animal. Next time when someone asks how many cylinder my Mini has, I should say 14.

Here is the humble math:

• Front calipers 4x2 = 8
• Rear calipers 1x2 = 2
• Brasil manufactured humble cast iron (no fancy alloy) block 1x4 = 4

 

TCE has reusable steel shims that are about 0.2" thick that are made to compensate for pad wear and keep the piston further inside the caliper. This cuts down on piston wear from side loading. See about half way down the following page:
http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/brake-pads/

 

I already have them when I did research on reusable shims for Wilwood BBK. I was sold as the AL caliper with a skewed SS piston concerns me on the potential damage to the soft AL bores in the calipers.

 

It was a half burrito day. The event didn't start until almost 5pm and the rain came and never stop. A lot of track cars simply didn't run. My tyres are half worn and I have never driven on a wet track before so caution was the keyword.

My neighbour and his girlfriend were there too with their two Miata's. And my other neighbours from two houses also there to cheer me on despite the terrible weather. I encouraged one to go out to drive the touring laps, and his wife rode with me. While we all prefer dry track wet track is the inevitable odds and provides great experience in looking for the different lines and feeling out the limits without crashing.

Oh, and I should mention the ASC. I left it on at the start of the first session. In less than 1/4 mile I switch it off as it is plain useless even in the wet track. I have to say I was glad there is ABS braking hard at the end of straights in the rain. Before going out, I gave some thought as what to do should the car hydroplane at high speed in the straights. My thought is to know when not to try to regain control in a bad hydroplane situation but may be to lock all brakes and hope the car spins in a forward direction along the track.














The fastest car in the wet track was a red Golf R32. A white Golf GTI was quite fast and he spun out. The worst wreck was a last gen Mazda RX7 with a Corvette engine which hit the guard rail and tire wall which both needs to be repaired before we can run our last session. Mini's interior was soak so I did my best to dry out the next day.

 

I thought I would give an update on a few recent handling modifications that I did to the Mini. These including the Powerflex Black Series race poly bushings for the front control arms, and then followed with M7 strut tower brace and Cabriolet front braces.

I agonized the choice between the regular and the race series as I care dearly in keeping the Mini a nice ride on the road, but I also want good steering response and feedback. I took the risk and go with the Black series and I am very glad I did. Now the steering is scalpel sharp, making the Mini a limbo pothole dodger. There is no annoying steering wheel vibration, but more immediate and direct feedback. The ride comfort hardly deteriorate in any perceptible way and the car is just more fun to drive. For the rear trailing arm bushing I decided to go with the regular Purple series as the rear end is so much lighter and much less unsprung weight.

I was very skeptical on the contributions of a strut tower brace. I have been on the lookout for a JCW but none ever came my way. I didn't like M7's 3-piece bar design (for shipping) until I had a chance to grab on one on a Miniac's. I like the hefty aluminium plate that doubles as the strut tower reinforcement.

I install the M7 strut brace together with the Cabriolet front braces at the same time. It has been about a week now, and I can say without reservation that the improvement to the chassis front end stiffness is very pronounced, even just a short shopping trip. The Mini rides so much better without the chassis shakes induced from crapy road surfaces now so common in our cities. As I installed the braces all at the same time I cannot attribute to how much improvements from the Cabrio braces. I think most is from the strut tower brace and some from the Cabrio's.

Driving flat out on track it is noticeable threshold braking from excess of 100 MPH there most of the front end shake is subdued. The contribution in corning is harder to assess as PIR is a flat track. There are only some slight undulation between turn 4 and 6 so the suspension damping has very little workout. I am faster now in these turns and I experience the dampers working and will soon try to experiment with the rebound damping settings.

 

I has been about 14 months now since I first set out to make my Mini more fun. Looking back to my original goal very little has changed. Many of my original list of modification choices are still there, with only the one-ball catback exhaust being the exception. I wanted the Mini to handle better but without making it unlivable driving on public road. For me it is easier to build a track car than modifying a street car to be somewhat competitive on track and yet civilized on roads.

My original emphasis was on handling, and that was why my only engine modification even up to today is just a 15% pulley and corresponding spark plugs. Even now I am still quite content with this engine modification. It made sufficient increase of power output compared to stock with little sacrifice of reliability.

I have a tune credit with Bytetronik and I have yet to initiate the tune. It is mainly because I want to establish a good baseline with what I have and my driving skill is the weakest link. Since last year's first track session I think I improve reasonably well and soon I would be ready to experience with the increase in power output from a good tune.

I have been very happy with my choice of Koni, Swift springs, IE fixed camber plates, and the 22mm Alta rear sway bar. If I were to be building a track car my choice might be a bit different and easier. Still the juries are still out until I try tracks that are more taxing on spring, dampers, and other suspension components.

I chose all mechanical gauges for oil and boost. For a very long time I was rather concern with the oil line for the oil pressure gauge being reliable for punishing track use. I have monitored and inspect the line and fitting after just about every track event, and now I am totally at ease with my installation and the routing of these lines.

The Quaife LSD is worth every penny and I have no regret of not going with OS Giken. So too that I chose Exedy OE replacement SM clutch/flywheel kit as I want to maintain drivability on public road as well as budget considerations. Even with carefully chosen set of modifications the tallied total adds up to a small fortune, but I am having immense fun and learnt a lot just in this brief 14 months. My litmus tests of any modification remain the delicate balance of a livable street car and performance on tracks with emphasis on handling rather than sheer power.

 

Sorry to hear about the RX7. I have a friend who has one of those with the Corvette engine. He says it is a handful even on a dry track.

I have driven in several “monsoon” rain track days with less than ideal tires (Dunlop ZIs worn to the point that the wear bars were forming part of the tread ), standing water on the track and water running across the track. The front end will hydroplane, the back tires will follow in the tracks of the front or close to it. What I did when it hydroplaned was to make very slight changes with the gas; a slight lift got the front back down, then I was back on the gas. I wanted to keep on the gas to keep the back end from coming around, especially in the one corner that had running water coming across the track between the apex and track out. I have a great video of that day that I can link to if you would like to see it.

 

I am not exactly a wimp. Topped out on the front straight at 103 on a slippery track before braking for the chicane. Sometime on a hot dry day that is a max speed! My best time was 2:01:75. Could have been better if I didn't care to bring Mini back home in one piece. Mini hates mowing wet grass and so do I. The video shows the cocky GTI spun out, and Mini chasing down the fake Police Interceptor to make a citizen arrest before cut short by the corrupted mayor .

 

My concern with hydroplaning was one that all things' gone to hell in a hand basket with little chance of recovery on the straights. I think in those situation trying to save it tends to make matter worst and inviting the car to head to a wall. I found your YT channel, and I subscribed. I did reach 103 on the front straight and braking just before the chicane was a bit unnerving but thankfully ABS saved the day. What line to take in a monsoon? No one can tell you except you have to discover yourself.

I was running in the advanced group, and I was so embarrassed as myself and the Acura in front of me were driving like going to church on Sunday initially and held up traffic. At least the Acura was in front. Eventually I had to give him the passing flash and he didn't like it but he never caught up to me. Before long very few cars were running. I have little doubt the fastest red Golf R32 relied on more advanced traction control in addition to all wheel drive advantage. With my humble 2004 ASC traction control, I am wondering even should I be bothered when caught in black ice skating ring situation.

 

We had an amazing May here in the soggy PNW. We were blessed with cool and not wet weather but eventually we had to pay the piper on this past Friday cheap TNiA HPDE.

My track pit crew has been under the weather (literally) that we were deferring the post-track service regiment. Finally help is on the way and the weather outlook is looking up. Planning ahead I ordered another 1/2 litre of Motul 600. I compared it against the most expensive Castrol SRF Racing Brake Fluid and decided that, based on specs, Motul 600 is the biggest bang for the buck. I need to have enough brake fluid on hand to be ready to replace the AL caliper pistons the came with the Wilwood BBK with the spendy SS ones.

Driving in the rain, my Miltek catback developed knocking and I suspect the rain water acted as lubricant on the silicone rubber muffler hangers causing one anchoring nipples of the Miltek to slip off. I can tell you Miltek workmanship is very sketchy especially the quality control of the hanger arms. Each sample is different, and I suspect they are made in China but with value-added step done in the UK. I will provide circumstantial proof if someone challenge my assertions.

 

Friday was just a half burrito day and being so soggy Mini was hardly strained compared to a dry track event. Still there are always something to check and follow up. I took advantage of a good stretch of time until the next track event taking care of some small businesses. Installing a Fumoto oil drain ****. Solving the exhaust gas leak at the pipe flanges of the Miltek catback exhaust. Oh, and change the motor oil and oil filter.

I took the intercooler out to check for oil deposit this weekend. In the process I dropped a M6x12 bolt down into the abyss between the engine and the radiator. My biggest fear is it may lodge in a gap near the radiator fan blade. For the life of me I could not find it without putting the Mini into the front end service mode. I wasn't going to do that for a small bolt.

I bought this (Das Original) OE quality SS gasket for just $4 shipped; it consisted of two sheets spot welded together with a raise rings on both sides


Fumoto oil drain **** - have someone pointed out it is a ball valve I would have bought one long ago


I use an extra set of jack stands for redundancy least Mini try to kill me for the abuse I dished out at the track


this leak just kept coming back but I will fix it once and for all; it is hard to imagine the unpleasant noise this tiny gap can cause


on the left is the crap gasket that came with the Miltek and it splited the second time; the SS gasket on the right seals well enough


I fabricated this homemade magnetic fishing tool with HDD magnet and with a bit of fishing around the crevices I manage to retrieve the lost bolt without being able to see where it was lodged in


MINI brand oil filter; this is the side that faces the bottom up against the plastic drain back valve


it is not hard to install the filter element backwards


because of the M7 strut tower brace there is only space to pass the oil filter element


a lot of work had to be done with the filter cup in here if you don't want to unbolt the strut brace each time changing oil filter


I had to strain to get this shot with the iPhone to check the drain back valve has not dislodged


If you read about the horror stories of the dislodged drain back valve you would appreciate why I didn't want to change the oil and filter just days before a track event. I want to ensure I have ample time to repair it should it become dislodge or damaged.

I had the hardest time to ensure the thread is not crossed when replacing the oil filter cup as the diameter is so large and the high friction of the o-ring; only that I was absolutely sure the thread has started properly that I dare to use a wrench to turn it


there just barely enough clearance between the steering fan and the drain valve lever


you don't get to dictate where the SS lever orientates


it just happens that is points upwards so zero chance it being kicked open by road debris


I want to monitor the movement of the strut tower so I scribes the perimeters of the strut brace bar in case it shifts under stress

 

Mini has two hidden storage bins for spare fasteners, as I found out in this fishing expedition.

servicing the intercooler in my well equipped vast track car service facility; we just added a generous sized work bench



While checking the intercooler a M6x12 bolt drop into the abyss between the engine and the radiator because of my clumsiness. I immediately thought this cannot be good. After trying to look for it visually it was clearly a lost cause. I tapped on the plastic splash shield to see if it landed there and it was not. It must landed in the space between the fan propeller and the radiator, which is the worst place even if it does not interfere with the rotation of the fan now. In time it may and when that happen very bad thing can happen. I wasn't going to put the Mini in the front end service mode just to look for the damn bolt.

While having the Mini up on jack stands (it is becoming almost a weekly event now) I removed the splash guard to see if I can fish out the bolt. Boy! Am I glad that I took ample photos each time I service the Mini. Referring to my photos I found one that I can see all the potential places where the bolt could have landed. I unplugged the fan motor connector least the DME decides the coolant is too hot and chop my fingers off. A very small chance but can happen especially Desire that holds grudge against me. I heard Desire utter Christine once.

I refer to this photo to blind fish the lost bolt



Reference to the photo these are two likely places marked with arrows. I fished around with a home made magnetic part retriever. I use magnet from HDD. The outer pocket is easy to get to and just running the magnet along the bottom I knew it didn't land there. There must be space to hold 20 M6x12 bolts there securely.

Next is to try fishing between the radiator and the fan. While the fan propeller hugs tightly against the radiator surface there is enough gap for a M6 bolt to fall thru the gap and lands inside the plastic pocket there. If it moves around and ends up in the fan's 6pm position it might just stop the fan motor dead or rip up the delicate aluminum coolant passages. This is when my home made magnet fish shines. I use 14 AWG solid wire so I can bend it in any shape to fish from below the car. It took a few reshaping to run along the full length of the bottom and click! I immediately knew I had a catch.

the retrieved M6x12 and my home made magnetic fishing tool

 

I like photos taken straight at the side of the Mini. It shows tons of rake with these Swift springs. Wait until I starting removing some weights at the back. No wonder the tiny rear toy brakes hardly get a work out while the front ones were being abused.





I just need to open the wallet for one of this, take out the rear seat backrests, and swap the AL R56 trailing arms in.

 

So often I read people accuse Mini designers treating serviceability as afterthoughts. While I was very intimidated the first time I pulled the drivetrain. My experience is the opposite. I seldom didn't walk away with renewed respect on how hard the designers worked around the difficult constraints packaged this little car that it is. To give some perspective compare this Miata with a turbo added.

Miata with an aftermarket turbo added; there are still space to sneak out a couple of sturgeons


try to sneak out a steelhead in this cramped engine bay ; there is barely room for a sardine

 

 

Your first sentence says it all! Things can go wrong real fast. And trying to save it can add to problems.

And you are right about what line to take in a monsoon. Any that works. Just stay off paint.

I was surprised by 2 things the first time I drove in heavy rain. One was how good the brakes were and how well the car does track in a straight line. It seems you found the second one too, doing 103 out there. The MINIs are actually great in the rain compared to a lot of cars.

On a different note, I am surprised to hear about the oil back flow valve. Thanks for sharing that info.

For brake fluid - I use the Wilwood DOT 3. It has one of the highest dry boiling temps out there. I don’t worry about wet boiling as I flush it all the time.

I am working on getting back to posting on YouTube. I lost my editing program with a computer upgrade and I am working to find a replacement or if I can recover it.