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Well, the wideband O2 sensor survived another track day, and I have little doubt owing to the $65 heatsink bung. Three track days so far and it is still ticking along.
First off, I would ignore the potential limitations of the Dashcommand as to how it derive the reported HP. Assuming you have an accurate crank power, there is no way to know the accurate power at the wheel unless you put it on a real dynanometer. Most people will assume a drive train loss of say 15% and call it a day.
I think at the end of the day, the accessible proof of the pudding is doing a real life test - and that is acceleration. 1/4 mile, 0-60 etc.
Thank you, just needed to confirm what I thought but I also thought there was a formula for that but you're right I have to put that car on a dyno.
Well, the wideband O2 sensor survived another track day, and I have little doubt owing to the $65 heatsink bung. Three track days so far and it is still ticking along.
Awesome news! Great to hear. I picked up a new sensor yesterday and got hold of the associated heatsink bung as well. Time will tell. Will be super excited if this is the last sensor I ever have to buy (chuckles)
I had a lot of problems with video equipment that day. I ran into this persistent bug with the GoPro Hero 5 Black and I could not get out of the lock screen. I tried to manually start the recording, only to have no usable video at all. I also had mishaps with the lap timer as it accidentally connected to someone else ODB BT dongle. Because of it no useful telemetry except the lap time.
They signed up way too many cars in my run group. We also were short changed to run just few laps in the first session because someone broke down at the end of the front straight right from the get go. I would later learnt that one driver ran out of fuel. His response was "according to my computer it still has 11 miles to empty". Unbelievable!
Switching to the advance group was the best thing I did that day. Driving in the advance group for the first time was intimidating. There were a lot of high power cars. Many are track cars running slicks. Poor Mini tried hard with the little motor that can. Some guy asked what motor is in the Mini, and I saw the most interesting face expression when I said 1.6L. He asked if it has a turbo. I said supercharger. Not that super, I added. The conversation led to how many HP…
Oh, and that Mustang that has the 4-pot Holley, is lighter than my Mini, according to the owner because it has many composite body panels.
It was nice to meet you in person. Had a great day at the track and the old R50 got me to work this morning without a problem.
My father has a 65 notchback Mustang with a 200ci I6. It tips the scales about 2600 pounds, so it is very believable that if there are composite panels and not much else in the car, you could get it to about 2400(which is about what my R50 is) without much problem. The Shelby GT350's had thinner fiberglass hoods and trunk lids. The GT350R, if I recall correctly, had a Plexiglas rear window that also acted as a vent to let air out of the cabin - probably saving a little more weight.
Like the Brits in Project Binky, when the going gets tough, I take a tea break but being a hot blooded gringo I have a cup of coffee instead and ponder the next move.
Mini is on a diet program and some small progress
The OE harmonic damper appears to have much life left, but I want the monkey off my back least it decided to get restless at the most inopportune moment.
so good to know this must be responsible for the front end shake when I mashed on the brake pedal at the track @112 MPH ; some just like living on the edge
I dropped the subframe to replace the control arm bushings with Powerflex Black. When I disconnect the passenger side tie rod end from the steering knuckle there was this steel ring sitting there. It took me a moment to realize what it is. It is a spring clip for the rubber boot of the ball joint, somehow had popped out. Inspecting closer I realized the boot was all puffed up and the collar this clip engages has folded inwards and cannot be seen. I knew it will take some thought to save the ball joint of the tie rod end. I would try to deal with it when I am ready to reinstall the subframe.
what the hell is this steel spring ring doing here?
I realized it is the spring clip that keep the rubber boot collar seal tightly against the taper stud of the tie rod ball joint
As I don't have a speciality tool to spread this spring ring I have to come up with a workable solution, and not to damage the rubber boot. I use a paint can opener to ply out the collar that has folded itself inside. Next I put in a bit of moly grease inside the boot. To return the spring clip onto the rubber boot collar is not easy without a speciality tool. I took advantage of the taper stud of the ball joint. Without a helper I need to pull the collar up by stretching it over the smaller diameter of the stud so I can slip the spring clip back on.
I came up with the idea of using a cable tie, and it did the trick. It served as a third hand and free my two hands to reseat the spring clip back into the groove of the rubber boot.
While pulling the supercharger for oil service I noticed something odd. There are these two bolts for the steel bracket that support the throttle body that have rubber grommets for flexible mount. That is odd is there seem to be too much length for the grommets to float. In my mind I didn't think much of them as there are many other things to mind during the removal. Once the supercharger is out I have a chance to examined them closer.
The bolts are finger loose, and simply not tighten but have another few mm to go. They couldn't come from the factory that way, I thought. Desire had a SM clutch kit put in only a few thousand miles ago. I went and fetch my pit crew head mechanic and pointed to him. He stared at the bolts with the dumb look, but was silent and said nothing. Obviously he knew he screwed up. Fortunately me the track driver found it. I was ready to fire the head mechanic on the spot for such serious infraction and professional negligence.
Like in Fight Club, I would awake to the cruel fact that the driver, the pit crew head mechanic, and the track sponsor all three are one and the same person. What an unholy trio.
OK. While Mini is up on the jack stands, I outdid myself in carrying out a long list of work that I have dread to tackle. Now the long pole in the tent is the $2 o-ring for the water pump to engine block connection that has yet to arrive. I am a proud owner of this set of excellent condition R56 aluminium trailing arms. I am struggling if I should go ahead and just-do-it.
It would be a no brainer decision normally, but I have track events coming up fast and furious. I don't want to find myself in a bind if something unanticipated rear its ugly head. I really want to take one step at a time with suspension and steering modifications which I just installed. The other consideration is, should I need to get an alignment job, it would be really nice to only pay once.
To be or not to be, is the question of the day. As changing the trailing arms I would use the speed sensors that comes with them as well as the sway bar drop links, and may be the hubs too. There are just too many new-used parts adding too much risk. Proceed with caution is the password.
Mini is so filthy! That is why I call it Mini hog.
With 80F+ temperature I did some spic and span of Mini's dirty parts that you normally don't see. Degreasing that was. Let's see how long this will last as Desire like to play in the dirt.
Probably not what your experiencing but a good article on brakes.
The big brakes may be confusing the ABS, though our cars may not have such a sophisticated system and they probably don't care about the size of the brakes.
OK. While Mini is up on the jack stands, I outdid myself in carrying out a long list of work that I have dread to tackle. Now the long pole in the tent is the $2 o-ring for the water pump to engine block connection that has yet to arrive. I am a proud owner of this set of excellent condition R56 aluminium trailing arms. I am struggling if I should go ahead and just-do-it.
It would be a no brainer decision normally, but I have track events coming up fast and furious. I don't want to find myself in a bind if something unanticipated rear its ugly head. I really want to take one step at a time with suspension and steering modifications which I just installed. The other consideration is, should I need to get an alignment job, it would be really nice to only pay once.
To be or not to be, is the question of the day. As changing the trailing arms I would use the speed sensors that comes with them as well as the sway bar drop links, and may be the hubs too. There are just too many new-used parts adding too much risk. Proceed with caution is the password.
A word of caution about those fancy and shiny trailing arms. That is, the bolt holes for the shocks. Those are not tapped threads in there. Well, sort of, they are. MINI uses a self tapping bolt to make the treads and they are not the best. Reinserting that self-tapping bolt can damage and/or wear out those threads. Also, the bolt torque that MINI states is for the initial installation when those threads are being cut. It is way too high for reinstallation of the bolt. Get yourself a pair of regular metric bolts (14mm 1.25 I think, and a washer, both the equivalent of a grade 8) and only torque them to 90-102 ft-lbs, same as the wheel bolts on a Gen II MINI. If the threads are at all damaged, the best option is to put in a time-sert (I have an installation kit for doing that. If these threads are damaged, the bolt can drop out and there will be hell to pay (ask me how I know).
Probably not what your experiencing but a good article on brakes.
The big brakes may be confusing the ABS, though our cars may not have such a sophisticated system and they probably don't care about the size of the brakes.
This should not be an issue on a Gen II MINI. The most that will happen is the ABS will apply a little too much force in the braking action if the ABS is kicked in. I never noticed any issues in my 2007 MINI when I went to the BBK.
The problem comes in with the Gen II MINIs with the DTC and the electronic limited slip system. When the inside wheel starts to slip in a turn the eLSD will over brake that wheel and it will actually drag. I burned out a set of pads in 2 30 min sessions because of this and it took me a year to figure out why this occurred. There is a MINI software recoding of the ABS module that needs to be done for either the installation of the JCW Brembo style brakes and these Wilwoods.
A word of caution about those fancy and shiny trailing arms. That is, the bolt holes for the shocks. Those are not tapped threads in there. Well, sort of, they are. MINI uses a self tapping bolt to make the treads and they are not the best. Reinserting that self-tapping bolt can damage and/or wear out those threads. Also, the bolt torque that MINI states is for the initial installation when those threads are being cut. It is way too high for reinstallation of the bolt. Get yourself a pair of regular metric bolts (14mm 1.25 I think, and a washer, both the equivalent of a grade 8) and only torque them to 90-102 ft-lbs, same as the wheel bolts on a Gen II MINI. If the threads are at all damaged, the best option is to put in a time-sert (I have an installation kit for doing that. If these threads are damaged, the bolt can drop out and there will be hell to pay (ask me how I know).
You know I have pretty well talked myself out of the small benefit of saving only a few pounds per arm of the AL trailing arm, that the expense and trouble is hardly worthwhile. But this shinny set came up for sale and is local that came off a very low mile R56 and I jumped on them. They come with all the needed fasteners as well as the speed sensors, hubs, and sway bar drop links. I only have to get the machined stainless damper bushings.
You bring up a good point that the self-tapping bolts which has the potential to damage the thread when reinstalling as it will try to tap again. May be a bit of WD40 to help it along. I did say to myself the torque specs would not be in my Bentley for R53. In fact I almost spaced out when researching which Powerflex bushing kit to buy for it, and caught myself from getting the one for R53.
Proceed with caution is the key, and don't do it the day before track event.
This should not be an issue on a Gen II MINI. The most that will happen is the ABS will apply a little too much force in the braking action if the ABS is kicked in. I never noticed any issues in my 2007 MINI when I went to the BBK.
The problem comes in with the Gen II MINIs with the DTC and the electronic limited slip system. When the inside wheel starts to slip in a turn the eLSD will over brake that wheel and it will actually drag. I burned out a set of pads in 2 30 min sessions because of this and it took me a year to figure out why this occurred. There is a MINI software recoding of the ABS module that needs to be done for either the installation of the JCW Brembo style brakes and these Wilwoods.
Very interesting about the virtual LSD with gen II new Mini. I hate any vehicles with eLSD, eTransfer Case, eDriver assist, eDownhill descent, eNanny. e stands for evil bean counters. In my book, virtual means pseudo, vapour, hype, without substance in most context.
Awesome news! Great to hear. I picked up a new sensor yesterday and got hold of the associated heatsink bung as well. Time will tell. Will be super excited if this is the last sensor I ever have to buy (chuckles)
All the best and I sincerely hope this would be the last WB sensor you need to buy. Please report back on your success. Without you, I might not be so aware of what kills this sensor.
You know I have pretty well talked myself out of the small benefit of saving only a few pounds per arm of the AL trailing arm, that the expense and trouble is hardly worthwhile. But this shinny set came up for sale and is local that came off a very low mile R56 and I jumped on them. They come with all the needed fasteners as well as the speed sensors, hubs, and sway bar drop links. I only have to get the machined stainless damper bushings.
You bring up a good point that the self-tapping bolts which has the potential to damage the thread when reinstalling as it will try to tap again. May be a bit of WD40 to help it along. I did say to myself the torque specs would not be in my Bentley for R53. In fact I almost spaced out when researching which Powerflex bushing kit to buy for it, and caught myself from getting the one for R53.
Proceed with caution is the key, and don't do it the day before track event.
Before I knew about this problem I had the rear shocks in and out a bunch of times with no issues (chasing a sway bar knock issue). I used that gray never-seize (living in the NE this helps with the rust and promotes assembly. Also not a fan of WD40) and that worked well. You should be able to thread the bolt in by hand, all the way. If you can't hand thread it in, then you may be dealing with bad threads.
Before I knew about this problem I had the rear shocks in and out a bunch of times with no issues (chasing a sway bar knock issue). I used that gray never-seize (living in the NE this helps with the rust and promotes assembly. Also not a fan of WD40) and that worked well. You should be able to thread the bolt in by hand, all the way. If you can't hand thread it in, then you may be dealing with bad threads.
The reason I use WD40 is because it is basically diesel fuel. For fasteners you don't want to come loose, or not supposed to lube as you can overtorque them. WD40 leave behind very little lubricant when dried. For instance before reinstall the subframe, I lightly spray the few bolts that has some rust spots to equalize their otherwise increased friction due to the oxide.
It is the same idea with the self-tapping bolts in this case, to minimize the re-cutting of the thread upon re-treading.
I would not put anti-seize on the damper bolts here in OR. I would if I live in cities where they heavily salt the street.
Mini has been in limbo for close to a week now. All the work that I wanted to do are done, but Mini is still on jack stands and in pieces. We are waiting for an o-ring to arrive from the farthest end of the country - Miami. Even the $3 for 5 bag of tap a fuse arrived via slow boat from China.
fuse taps from China
I realize this is a stretch of time that I should go ahead and butcher the silver trim rings on the shifter console. It is an unpleasant and difficult job but it has to be done sooner or later. It is not like there are the Heinzelmännchen here that magically appear at night and do the unpleasant job for me.
The challenge of the cutting is you can't just measure and cut. It is more like trial and error cutting by eyeballing. Cutting off too much and you are screwed. Cutting too little, and you've got a lot of hand filing to do. Additionally, once you cut up the trim rings, you compromise their structural integrity, and how they snaps into the plastic console base. Annoying rattle is a real possibility.
05-19-2018, 10:16 AM
Obviously he knew he screwed up.
Fortunately me the track driver found it. I was ready to fire the head mechanic on the spot for such serious infraction and professional negligence.
What an unholy trio.
Degreasing that was. Let's see how long this will last as Desire like to play in the dirt.
In my book, virtual means pseudo, vapour, hype, without substance in most context. 
