I got lucky, by buying what I did and knowing that the setup worked, there was minimal changes to be made, like having A/C and the repositioning of my W/P.

The fact that it fired right up and no immediate leaks, was a huge weight lifted for the whole project.

 

Just a short update, got everything mocked up properly over the weekend and radiator should be back mid week, ready for install this coming weekend. That and the EGT gauge line will be run and connected to the new gauge and data logging software as well.
Plus new CAE "esq" short shifter is in the way from GP Garage in Italy.

Fingers Crossed, car will be in the road this coming weekend.

Once everything is checked over and tuning begins, the next big thing will be the Aquamist install, for the second round of tuning.

Honestly, besides the actual work time, the biggest hurdle is trying to figure out where to mount the nitrous modules and if I even have room for both of them. It's going to probably take some fancy brackets and more plumbing magic to get more than one to fit, but that's the final step and not a priority for a month or so yet.

Oh, Harbor Freight welder is gone, entry level "non-flux core" mig welder has replaced it, along with a small entry level plasma cutter. (Both are basically for body work on my next project, so didn't need much power) and new tig will be here in June (back ordered).

 

Which plasma cutter and tig you bought? I need more manly tools too.

 

Everything was entry level, esp the plasma cutter, it was an impulse buy to go along with the mig, I've already got some open jaw bench top shears and air shears, so I just bought the cheapest thing on Amazon, just to see how much use I really get out of it.

HYL CUT30C PLASMA CUTTER

Since I'll rarely work with anything thicker than 1/8", as long as it functions, it should be fine.
(Unboxed it late Sun, I'll try it out this weekend on some scrap)

As for the tig, it is the AHP AlphaTig 200x, it's AC/DC tig & Stick, wanted to be able to do aluminum and it's supposed to be one of the better starter level machines.
Plus I found it on Amazon for $680 + $30 shipping.

With the mig, I just picked up an Eastwood mig135.
The biggest problems I had with the HF was the mess from using flux core and minimal to no power control, not over all power, for what I was doing. The 135 should be perfect for light sheet metal where the tig would just not be appropriate.
That and I found a coupon for for it as well, I think it ended up only being $230 shipped. (Or something close to that, I bought a bead roller at the same time)
I can play with it in a couple of weeks, gas bottles are on the way as well.

 

From the comments on Amazon the TIG seems to be very nice. People today don't realize how nice they have it because of globalization as a consumer. I bought a first gen Lincoln prosumer MIG circa 1993 for $550 that came only with flux wire. I had to buy gas regulator/valve and gas bottle in addition. $550 in 1993 dollar is $963 today adjusted for inflation. TIG and plasma cutter were only professional territories then.

I need a barn to house all my tools as I have too many hobbies and I do just about everything myself.

 

Me too, my problem is all my benchtop stuff is in my "non walkout" basement and everything else in my trailer. Workshop should go up sometime this summer, finally. Can't do a garage for at least a few years.

As far as the tig, it was the only one that really mattered to me, so I did a lot of YouTube research on many different units, this just seemed too be the most affordable "decent" option.

 

So, last weekend Good, Not so good, Good, WooHoo

Good - Radiator came back from my fab guy, installed and everything fit properly, fired the car back up and all seemed well, but it was Sat night and storming so no test drive.

Not so good - Came out Sun morning to a small coolant leak, seems that my fab guy accidentally burned a pin hole in the core, so back out it came and off to the radiator shop.

Good - Back from the radiator shop, got off work an hour early last night, so everything went back in and filled. Came out this afternoon to no leaks, so I'll fire up the car this weekend, pressure test the system as well as bleeding and topping. All the other systems so far have been leak free (knock on simulated faux wood grain).

WooHoo - Shifter got here Tues.....

So, this weekend:
-Finish the EGT gauge install, plus cleaning up some of the under dash gauge wiring.
-Burp, bleed and check all the fluids.
-Update some tuning software
-Install the shifter
-Fab up some fire extinguisher mounts

Besides all that I still have to install the W/M system, figure out the nitrous controller mounting and plumbing, and install my new DT-BBK.
Besides this, the car needs a few non performance item's worked on, but none of that effects driving the car at all.

Fortunately all but the EGT gauge and software update, are things that can be done while we're doing the DD and pump gas tuning.

I'm really stoked to get the car on the road this weekend, and work today won't go fast enough.
New pics this weekend.

 

It's the end of the weekend. Pics pls.

 

Unfortunately I only ended up with 1 day to work on the car this past weekend, so didn't get near as much done as I wanted, but the car is together, and out of the carport, starts and idles perfectly normal.

Only issue is a simple mistake on my part, I neglected to add the intake manifold vacuum into my external vacuum manifold, therefore not enough vacuum for MAP Sensor, BOV, and more importantly for now, the brake servo, so I was only able to drive a block and back.

At idle the cooling system is working perfectly, and it only took 1 Qt to top off. Idled for 20 min, up to 185° fan kicks in, thermostat opens, and right down to 165° .

Sorry, but only a couple of pics:

Here's why I keep the "good" packing foam...



This way the air is forced through either the Radiator or the I/C.





It's always satisfying when the inner fender wells go back in...



Fortunately adding the vacuum line shouldn't require any disassembly and be pretty easy, I will however have to wait a week or so for a piece of tuning hardware I need upgraded, but no big deal, still have those other jobs to finish, plus I want to form some shrouds and covers for additional air flow management under the hood.

Big outdoor project this coming weekend, so I'll just have to work on things when I can.

 

No new pics, but did get some time this weekend after all, had to tap a second vacuum source from the Intake Manifold to run only brake booster, isn't as good as OEM, but works just fine (just a slightly stiffer pedal)
Only thing to really deal with now is if the vacuum in the vacuum manifold is enough to let the MAP sensor and fuel regulator function properly, the factory vacuum connection is now running, fuel regulator, MAP sensor, crankcase and BOV, and after my test drive late last night the BOV is functioning perfectly. If I need to I'll tap another direct line to single out the fuel regulator, but so far seems good.

Tuning piece is on its way and hopefully I'll be able to take my first real drive (not just up and down the street) later this week.

 

As a supplemental update to last weekend.
Vacuum system is now working perfectly. Ends up that with the turbo you want to either alleviate the crankcase/PCV from the system or add a vacuum pump.
Since our engines are just fine with this turbo configuration and a simple crankcase vented to atmosphere, that was the fix.

With the crankcase in the mix I was getting 1-2 psi vacuum at idle, now without, 11-12 psi.

So configuration is as follows, fuel regulator only to the factory port.
The port I added connects to the vacuum manifold with MAP sensor, Brake servo, Boost/Vacuum gauge and BOV all attached to it.

First test drive was a great success, the car runs perfectly normal and everything functions exactly as it should, both in traffic, stop light to stop light and open hwy. For normal driving, except for a code related to the change, you'd never know I did anything to the car at all.

Only issue to be addressed is heat control related, I need to add a little more of the DEI Form-A-Sheild to the cowl and bonnet.
And for anyone interested, that stuff works stellar, while the metallic side gets just as hot as you'd expect, I can actually touch the back side of the piece that rests almost right against the downpipe and it's only warm to the touch.

Hopefully I'll have time Sun to work on that and some of the other items, but tuning should commence shortly, either way.

 

Sundays work, the heat situation is sorted, while the ceramic heat coating works well, it alone just isn't enough for the exhaust side of the turbo, so the addition of a turbo blanket, and a strip of Form-A-Shield under the cowl has taken care of the issue.
With that done, it was time for the next phase of testing, and made a mildly hard pull in first and hard shift into second, which brought up a few issues...

First being that this wastegate actuator just isn't enough, it's only a .75 bar which translates to 11 psi max, and while 11 psi breaks the tires loose at 5200 in 1st, even doubling it with a boost controller isn't going to give me as much flexibility as I'd like, so there's a 1.2 bar or 18 psi actuator on the way.

Second and larger issue is that I miscalculated the amount of engine movement under hard shifts, (even though I'm running Ireland upper and lower bushings along with a TSW top motor mount) and the shift from 1st to 2nd pulled the upper radiator hose loose. Since I do all my testing really close to the house, the car never got above 200°, but of course this needs to be addressed, so there's a new, longer, flex hose on the way as well.

Maybe not the ideal result, but this is what testing is all about, esp with the amount of custom fab involved in a project like this.
Some updated pics this weekend.

 

Wow! That's quite a lot of movement. Do you just need stiffer mounts? What's the dealio?

 

Certain it was me, I had little or no play from trying to incorporate the OEM hose (my choice was either fairly tight, or possibly kink the hose too much), so once it moved some, the pressure in the system just helped it the rest of the way. (You know how it is, one little gap and there's slippery antifreeze where you don't want it.)
At least that's my guess since I know there's actually not that much movement with the bushings and mount I'm using.

The new hose arrived today and I'll sort it one way or another over the weekend, biggest issue as always is space.

 

BlwnAway -

After reading this round of posts, I'm glad to see you've changed your wording from "NOS" to "nitrous". Two different thngs.
As you know NOS stands for Nitrous Oxide Systems. A company name.
You had the ZEX system installed.

A generic term is as you later used , just "nitrous' or nitrous oxide.

The actual chemical designation for nitrous oxide is N2O.

In any case, a LOT of interesting work, rework, and rework...!

Mike

 

Well, it's been a while since an update.
Everything is moving forward with only minor issues, but nothing more than expected.
The engine movement and radiator hose issue was an easy fix with the flex hose install.

Tuning is coming along well and hopefully won't be long until we can start on the power aspect of things.

I've been driving the car back and forth to work and I'm seeing under bonnet air temps and even intake air temps of only 10-20° over ambient with normal everyday driving, even in the 95° heat, so the I/C setup is working phenomenally.
But I am seeing under bonnet temps in the 150-175° range if sitting idle in traffic or a drive thru for more than a few min., so I'm thinking about some kind of system to help pull air from under the bonnet for those occasions, but again, space is an issue...and while it's probably not absolutely necessary, couldn't hurt if I can come up with something, I'll let everyone know if I do.

I've also added a manual boost controller and temporarily mounted it in the engine compartment, along with the new wastegate I ordered. (I still plan on an electronic controller and gauge so there's no reason to permanently mount this one)
While the new wastegate helped, I was still only seeing 16.5 psi (granted it was only with ¾ throttle in second gear) but again it wasn't what I was looking for, not with this engine, so the boost controller went in.
With the heaviest spring and opened all the way, at ½-¾ throttle in 2nd gear it's giving me about 26.5 lbs, so it's just where I want it to be, and of course it can always be turned down. (Which I may just have to do, since that pull was up a ramp onto the highway, and at 5k rpm the tires broke loose.)

Had a small setback with a minor oil leak at the turbo return fitting, (the first couple of hundred miles always brings out the bugs) causing me to have to replace the blanket due to oil getting into the original one.
Pulled everything apart, and since I had to wait on parts, I also studded the exhaust manifold just to keep everything as secure as possible. While disassembly is simpler than an S/C, it's still a pain so I also replaced the two piece oil return flange and fitting with a billet part that has the fitting machined into the flange, just to alleviate one unnecessary junction point.

With the repair time slowing down the tuning, I have decided to wait on the shifter and BBK install until tuning is done, just don't want to slow things down again unnecessarily.

Next will be the W/M install and the engine cover for rainy weather, plus I still have to do the fire extinguisher brackets.

My other project at the house got more involved than first expected, but it's finally almost done so I can hopefully devote more weekend time to finishing the car at a quicker pace than lately.

Again thanks for reading, and there's only a couple of new pics because of the recent changes not really changing the appearance of things that much.

First to the left is where the AFR and EGT gauge now live:



New wastegate actuator:



Temp Boost controller:



Turbo Blanket and new additional heat shield wrapped under the cowl:



R56 turbo studs and nuts:

 

Wanted to get an update in before the holiday weekend.
Tuning is coming along just fine, with weather and my work schedule there's been a few delays, but nothing out of the ordinary.

Received an unexpected surprise last week when I did my 3rd fill up. Back and forth to work and minimal hard pulls, through 2 tanks of gas I'm averaging 36.8 mpg, and that's calculated, not with the trip computer. Never expected that at all, best I got with the Sprintex was 29 hwy / 26 around town. I'll check it again after all the tuning is done, but either way, I'll take it.

Did the first WOT pull a couple of weeks ago, pretty happy for the base starting point (basically no tuning at all and stock rev limit) 316 hp / 251 tq according to Virtual Dyno.

And yes, I know it's not that accurate, but I can't go running to a dyno after every change (since we're street tuning) and honestly all I'm looking for with it is to see gains or losses, overall, it will be what it will be. I do all my pulls at the same exact spot, the Virtual Dyno setup is the same every time and so far the ambient temps have even been the same.
Honestly, I may even wait to see if they bring back the dyno to MOTD next year before strapping it down.

I did however run across something interesting with that WOT pull. According to my boost gauge tattle tale (have to use the gauge since the MAP Sensor tops out at 19.8) and reading from my vacuum manifold as I am, I only saw 24.7 psi, and I've seen 26.5 just after the boost controller install. So it got me curious, the piping had been off and on when doing the exhaust studs and oil leak, so I figured something just didn't get put back and tightened properly.
After a little research and going through the system, I found the issue... The T-Bolt clamps.. While they got tight enough, the also slightly bent my aluminium piping so that the openings were just a little out of round. Probably not an issue if you don't take things apart much, or can perfectly align everything again, but that's just not feasible for me.
So all the T-Bolt clamps have been replaced with Breeze Constant Torque worm drive clamps, and I'm back to seeing 26+ psi.

Speaking of, as far as boost and power, I'm fine with where it's at, esp considering I'm using the 64ar exhaust housing and the full 2.5" JCW exhaust. Honestly, it's pretty much on point for what the tires can handle anyway, and the only way to give it more overall would be going to a stand alone ECU and boost-by-gear.

Here's the way I see it now...
I will be getting better tires, but not until spring, so I'll just have to deal with these for now.
As it stands, with the current boost setting, full throttle and 1st gear aren't even a thought above 4000 RPM, and once I hit full boost around 5000-5500 in 2nd it also just rolls the tires right off the pavement. But it does hold traction in 3rd and up, so I'm thinking it's just right for my setup with no boost-by-gear option, it will be really fun in 2nd, and if I want more in the upper gears, I can always spray it with a 50 shot or something.
But.... That's now, things may change with the final pump gas and esp W/M tuning. I'll just have to see how it plays out.

I should have at least 1 of the 3 days to work on some of the other things that need to still be finished, so we'll see.

Just for reference, here's a screen shot of where I was with the final Sprintex pull prior to it losing boost, and the first WOT pull with the turbo. I may try and get an actual weight on the car this weekend as well.

 

Well, weighed the car, Holy Carp cabrio's are heavy....

Weight with me sitting in the car:

 

Finally another update, the tuning has been coming along, but remote tuning the everyday and warm idle (the closed loop stuff) is a very slow process because of all the minor adjustments, esp now that we've gotten into the extra maps available with the newer VDO ECU.

Well, come to find out the the ByteTronik team has opened a shop in Austin TX with a new Mustang Dyno, and their tuner was in the states for a month.
So.... Road Trip...

I went down the weekend of the 20th, except for my new alternator going bad, it was a pretty good trip.

Ended up taking most of the first day to iron out the afore mentioned closed loop tuning, but it's done and runs perfectly normal. As a matter of fact if it weren't for the power, it drives completely factory, you'd never know that there have been so many changes and modifications to the car.
Then after replacing the alternator, we were able to get the pump gas WOT tuning done as well.

I'm very happy with the results, esp being on a factory ECU, and can't say enough about the time and care that the guys put in to make sure everything was right, top notch, all the way around.

Only thing that bums me out is that prior to the trip I completed the Aquamist install, but because of the alternator problem, there just wasn't enough time for us to do the W/M tuning. But no problem, doing the open loop WOT tuning remotely, is much less time consuming than the everyday driving.

Only other issue was my manual boost controller was a real PITA to adjust and stay consistent, and while it's good now, there's an electronic unit going in this weekend. It will allow much simpler and more accurate adjustments when going from pump gas to W/M tunes.

Speaking of boost, we ended up running out of injector at 22psi, so that is where it will live for pump gas, we'll be able to turn it up with the supplement of the Meth, so no need to get larger injectors for now.
Besides, these 650's are supposed to be one of the most efficient available because of their spray pattern and atomization characteristics.
(I can't help but wonder if they aren't a big part of my exceptional fuel millage. While I didn't calculate MPG on the trip, I can tell you that going from a completely full tank to low fuel warning light, I was able to travel 360 miles.)
And for anything who thinks you can't road trip a car with all these modifications, except for the freak alternator issue, the trip was 1700 miles total, and everything just worked.

Here are a couple of pics of the W/
M install and some dyno graphs.
(For some reason, the final tune in those graphs is not the best number, best number was 329, but I'm not going to cry about 7 hp on a graph, you could lose or gain that with a temp or atmospheric change, if I do get that graph, I'll post it up later)
And since I won't be on that dyno for W/M tuning, I'll adjust the virtual dyno settings to best mimic the actual dyno (weight and dyno type) in order to get a good representation of the W/M changes in power.

So here's the obligatory "on the dyno" pic:


This first graph is a comparison of how the car was when I first got there, running 27 psi:


This is a comparison of safe boost at 22 psi, before tuning:


Here are the W/M install pics, with my injector size and probably running 100% Meth, the jetting calculated out to be in the neighborhood of 1.3-1.5mm, so instead of spraying that much so close to the MAP sensor, I'm doing split delivery as suggested by Jeff Howerton, .6mm Pre-T/B and adjust the Pre-Turbo as needed.

W/M Tank install:




New CAI Filter Positioning:


Rear W/M Nozzle, Pre-Turbo:


Front W/M Nozzle, Pre-T/B:


I guess that's about it for now, new boost controller should be in and setup this weekend, then on to the W/M tuning, as weather permits.

 

Glad we got the chance to get the tuning sorted out. We'll be offering R53 turbo builds in house fairly soon. Just locking down on all the parts.

 

Yes, thanks again so much....
It really is like driving your everyday normal mini...
Except for better fuel millage and "Hold the F On" power...

 

Turbo power, baby

 

Here are the virtual Dyno comparisons I mentioned.

First is the direct comparison of the before and after tuning using the old Virtual Dyno settings from the earlier posting a few months ago.

And second is an example of where the new settings need to be in order to mimic the actual dyno results.
I'll be using these settings to do further comparisons since I won't be on the same actual dyno again, while not perfectly accurate they will be close enough for my use.



If nothing else it's a good example of how tough a Mustang dyno can be...

 

Awesome read man!

 

Thanx.

Should be some new updates once we're out of winter.