Oil Cooler; to add or not to add
 

So after some issues with the low-speed fan, I added a 100w .33ohms resistor that tapped into the high-speed fan 12v source. Well it works just fine, but the temps are still not what I feel comfortable with. Using the Torque app showed that the temp (chrono pkg) shows a bit over the middle line, or 99°C when at idle. It rises after a few minutes and the low-speed fan kicks in at 105°C, thus returning to the aforementioned temp. Though that seems to be the general consensus for normal op. temps, Ive gone through this with my M3 and E38, and would like to run a bit cooler.

If an oil cooler is added, would this simply lower the oil temp and have little effect on the cooling system, or would it lower both temps simultaneously?

Additional info: Car is used as a daily and sits in moderate/heavy traffic (15fwy, interchange of the 91). No track time, no heavy loads or high rates of 'spirited' driving. Thanks for any feedback in advance.

Pic for reference (not my Mini)
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...bfa8ce0047.jpg

The oil cooler will pull heat out of the whole system, and the thermostat will close so less water makes it out into the radiator so the running temperature will be the same.

You could try getting the cooler thermostat and fitting that but I have read it throws error codes because the car is running too cold.

Where are you? I am in the Southern half of our planet having 40C (~100F) days and my R53 runs around 90C with the aircon on and the low speed fan running.

I would try getting your cooling system checked to ensure there are no problems with it and go from there.

James

The r53 already has an oil cooler
http://www.waymotorworks.com/oil-coo...s-r52-r53.html

Sneed sells a fancy kit
http://www.sneed4speed.com/mini-coop...il-cooler-kit/

No need for an external oil cooler based on your vehicle usage. I also wouldn't suggest switching to a colder thermostat because you will get error codes. If you want to try a colder thermostat I have a 180 deg that I never installed that you can have for the shipping cost (about $5).

After posting this, I too read a few posts where the colder t-stat throws codes. Im in the southern California area, by North San Diego County. If all of this is caused by not properly burping the system...Im going to laugh at myself.

Whoaaaa that Sneed kit is pricey...
I'll check the connections again, but I didn't see any leaks coming from the heat transfer unit.

Mr. Quik, thanks for that offer! Really cool of you. Let me do a bit more research on it, since the 'error codes' angle seems to spook me out. The car will be burped again this weekend to ensure that the simplest of issues are sought out and corrected first.

After getting my thermostat replaced my temps now happily go from 86 to 95 or so before cooling back down. It's still cool here but my fan doesn't even need to turn on, even at stop lights. We'll see what happens when it starts getting warmer but so far my issues were due to a bad / leaking thermostat.

+1

Oil cooler kits can be pretty pricey too so you could definitely use that money better spent on other things that would benefit your driving conditions.

Not exactly related, but figured I'd share my search for better cooling with you. A little while ago I wanted to improve my cooling on my vehicle (non-MINI) as I track a lot with it. I really thought about doing an oil cooler, but after speaking with a friend with a crazy track build he said that he dealt with a lot of overheating issues. He added a cooler that didn't do much for overheating. He said the best thing he did was cut into the bumper and added a type of ducting to add extra airflow to the radiator. I have a good opening for mine so I didn't necessarily want to cut into the bumper, but the AC condenser was pretty old and pitted, which sits right in front of the radiator. I decided to upgrade my coolant to racing coolant and removed the AC condenser from in front of my full racing aluminum radiator. Next track day I had zero heat issues. Allowing more direct airflow to my radiator really seemed to make a difference. I switched back to regular coolant for winter and since having normal coolant back in, it seems just fine out on the track as well with the condenser removed. Next, I'm going to seal off the surrounding area around the radiator to help from air escaping out from the sides.

Those are the temps that I'd like to see. I may change the tstat, just for PM.
Here's my view...
(scratch that- work cpu isn't cooperating)