replaced clutch and won't start! please help!
 

2002 mini cooper s
replaced the clutch with valeo single mass flywheel Kit.
Got everything back together and it tried to start, but sounded like a dead battery. When I tried to crank it. Then just clicked.
So I replaced the battery. Same deal when I replaced the battery. Both batteries are tested and reading good.
Put in fresh gas and heat. (Car sat for six months)
Only thing I can think that it could be is something with the starter? How do the wires connect to the starter?
Please help me with this. I am mentally and physically exhausted. Thanks in advance!

Yea... things that make you go Hmmm?

I would pull the starter, first to make sure the starter was not interfering with the flywheel and not indexing correctly when engaged. Then I would run it down to the local auto parts store to have it checked... (if you don't know how to bench test it, plus if it does test to be bad chances are the parts store will have a replacement ... with luck).

A good video for starter replacement...


Best of luck...

Motor on!

Thank you! Going to pull/check the starter after work.

I got the wires mixed up on my starter when I put the engine back in last. Spent the better part of two weeks scratching my head before I sorted it out. Thought it was a bad battery. Then pulled the alternator and took it in for testing - tested OK, etc.

There are two heavy cables that attach to the starter - one goes to the back towards the battery and the other attaches to the same terminal and connects to the alternator.

Just ordered a new starter. It tested bad 2 times out of 10. Made a weird grinding noise once when the gear disengaged. I honestly don't think that it is the starter but I guess it could be. Will find out tomorrow. How do I know that the starter gear and fly wheel are lined up.

Is there a very descriptive way the wires should be connected? Just want to make sure I get it right for sure!

starter wires
 

heavier RED wires that would drive the starter motor connects to the "longer" terminal post (the one that sticks out of the solenoid further) These wires are inside plastic looms on my car. One goes to battery and one goes to alternator

The thinner wire (Black and yellow according to the book) goes to the shorter post. This one is outside the loom on my car.

other things to check
 

I'm pretty sure the big wire is hot all the time (12-14V).
But you only get battery voltage (12-14V) on the small one when you turn the key. If you are getting juice but the starter isn't working check your ground. If you aren't getting battery at the big wire I think it runs to the positive jump terminal beside the airbox check voltage and connection there.

If you don't get voltage on the small wire when key in crank position check the clutch safety switch.

Where's the ground that I need to check? I am hoping I put the new starter in tonight and everything is fine. Thank you for your help!

Feel like this is a stupid question. I still have the car on jack stands and trying to start it. Could this be causing any issues? Thank you to everyone for your help with this.

Startet grounds through the motor
 

The starter is grounding through its connection to the motor. The motor mounts all isolate the motor since they have rubber in them so there are ground strap(s) between the motor and trans an the body.

The one I know about is the one that goes across the upper motor mount. Its a short 10-12 inch cable that goes from the bracket on the motor to the body. There are probably others I would think at least one more on the tranny side.

Starting on the jack stands shouldn't be an issue. Not the safest thing but it shouldn't matter. I imagine these cars have an inertia switch to stop the pump from running after a collision but generally it is hard to set them off by accident. And I'm pretty sure the engine would crank it just wouldn't be getting any gas.

Can you have someone turn the key and listen to the starter to see if the click you hear is the solenoid clicking?

Did you check the ground behind the front passenger wheel well arch?

Well put a new starter on and had it tested before leaving parts house. Sounded awesome and so much better. Mounted it and put everything back together. First try to start sounds just like a dead battery again just like before. Next few tries and just clicks. Then I for some dumb reason decided to hold the key on start for about 15 to 20 seconds. Smoke started coming from the starter. Smells like plastic. I am guessing that I can figure where that came from tomorrow after work. Too tired to pull back apart. I give up for tonight. Doing the clutch kit was a pain but not starting just sucks.

Where is the ground behind the passenger side wheel arch? Can't find it.

I'm looking for a picture of it now.

*EDIT* - before you remove the fender lining, look below the right(passenger side) bonnet(hood) latch. You should see a junction box. Basically it's a ground junction for several of the components. Make sure the the bolt holding it on is good and tight. A good cleaning won't hurt it either.

Basically remove the fender well lining of the passenger side. Look on the engine block forward towards the front of the car. You'll see a junction block. I had finger tightened this block, and not tightened it down, and my car wouldn't start after I had installed OEM fog lights.

Not saying that this IS your issue, but it was mine. Everything else worked on the car, just wouldn't engage the starter.

I'll keep searching.

You have another problem
 

That smoke is probably the wires or the starter burning up when you were holding it on.

My guess is that the stater is engaging but can't turn the motor or is binding when it hits the flywheel. Can you confirm the clutch is working? Put it in and out of gear and roll it a little. Make sure you can turn the motor over either by the crank pulley or with a screwdriver through the starter hole.

Mine wouldn't start either after a clutch change, and it turned out to be the ground cable near the left motor mount that wasn't tightened properly. But mine didn't make any noise at all, I had power to everything it just wouldn't do anything when I turned the key. No clicking like a bad battery or anything.

Not saying to rule out the ground cable, but even with it barely touching it wasn't enough to even try to crank the engine.

This is a picture from Pelican Parts:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...mall/pic09.jpg

He is loosening the bolt holding the ground strap to the engine mount.

You would have loosened this if you raised the engine.

If the starter is smoking - it's getting power. 99.9% something is binding the flywheel. Check that you can roll the car in neutral. Even a clutch staying engaged should start in gear with the wheels lifted. Try turning the flywheel by hand.

Flywheel is binding. Pulled the starter. Then tried to turn it over on the crank. It would not turn over. So I am going to pull it all apart again. What is the best crank seal to use?

I used Victor Reinz. No issues thus far. I know you must feel defeated by now but once you get it all sorted out I'm sure we'll all rejoice with you. Best of luck!

Can you pop start a r-53? If so it may just loosen it up.

I don't know
 

I don't know however, I wouldn't risk it if something is not aligned properly.