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I first installed my Aquamist HFSv4 v3.1 in 2016. During installation, I had issues with IDC signal pickup, this was due to me having an n18 JCW (no one could provide me with a diagram for the different ECU). I was in contact with Aquamist directly and they gave me a few different setups to try. the first had me using the direct injection settings and the "user" harness (green to pin 40, red to pin 3), this setup did not work for me at all. the second setup was using the more generic injection setup (without the "user" harness) where the green wire was tapped to pin 3 (Supply, terminal 15 injection system, cylinder 1). This setup worked but it seemed more like a bandaid fix. Has anyone here had more recent experience with an n18 that actually uses the injector signal?
I installed my HFS4 kit over this past weekend, everything went great and works like it should. But I got a copy of howertons install guide and they show routing the meth line, power wire, and trunk wire out the bottom of the trunk then through a hole in frame rail. But right below that gromet where the loom comes out is the upper control arm. Has anyone had issues with it rubbing through loom or did you ziptie up out of the way? Picture for reference.
We've covered quick 80/20 and 75/25 mixing by volume to arrive at the correct ratio by weight, but here's a quick calculator in Excel for those that might be interested in other ratios.
apologies for bringing up an old thread but wonder if those with the hfs 4 v2 wmi kit could confirm something for me?
on the grey ecu plug, did u connect the green wire to anything and if so what? it says its for fuel injection IDC detection but in the couple of pics of the installs on this thread, i dont see that wire connection to anything.
only green wire is from the green harness for DI injectors i see on the installs.
hopefully someone can assist, as company i had install mine seem to have done a poor job at it, already had to wire it for boost activation myself since had the system "installed"
No you do not need to connect the green wire from the ECU harness to anything. Instead use the green and red wires from the USER harness for injector duty cycle. The only time you would use the green wire from the ECU harness is with a standalone ecu or separate boost controller with a configurable PWM out. Using that you can control how much and when the Aquamist sprays via load or VE table while letting the Aquamist handle all the low level control and failsafe functions.
You didn't mention if N14 or N18. In both cases the red wire from the green USER harness is connected to the orange wire going to pin 4 of connector X60232. The green wire from the USER harness however goes to different pins.
N14
Green wire from the USER harness is connected to the white wire going to pin 29 of ecu connector X60232.
N18
Green wire from the USER harness is connected to the white wire going to pin 41 of ecu connector X60232.
hi thanks for getting back to me so quickly!
its not actually a mini but has the same engine being the N14 on a Peugeot 207 here in europe.
Thats what i thought after reading the manual and the forums regarding the green wire on the ECU harness cable, that wouldnt need it, just the red for ignition switch, yellow for the fuel rail pressure sensor and blue for the map sensor. .
Unfortunately, the installer had only wired it as the generic wiring diagram seen early in the manual, and dont nothing for the DI injector connections, which the cable is just lying unused in the engine bay,.....
Running it of boost this now as thats preferred by my tuner but would like to have the set up done properly, least now i can handle some wiring and get it sorted myself.
Guessing the red and green wires from the green harness will go to any of the injector wiring into the ecu yes?
Thankfully i have full ECU wiring diagram for my car
Sounds like we're going to have a new Pug ripping it up across the pond shortly. Bravo. Yes you are correct as any injector pair wires will do. The original drawings used injector number 4 but that is not critical. There a few differences between controlling the meth via VE (MAP) and load as the when running MAP only the controller makes no consideration for acceleration enrichment or when in higher gears where you have high load but not much boost yet. By pulling duty cycle from the injector you can blend (P/I potentiometer) how much weight the Aquamist assign to MAP vs Load. I don't have diagrams for a 207 but you should find something similar to this.
If you're not tuned to take advantage of the meth injection you're fine. Otherwise I strongly advise against it. It's never fun scrapping up engine parts on the side of the road.
Usually the only time I might use the DFS jumper is when tuning up to spring pressure on large turbo installs with a standalone boost controller. For those types of setups, spring pressure is where it will fall back to if the failsafe triggers.
If you're not tuned to take advantage of the meth injection you're fine. Otherwise I strongly advise against it. It's never fun scrapping up engine parts on the side of the road.
Usually the only time I might use the DFS jumper is when tuning up to spring pressure on large turbo installs with a standalone boost controller. For those types of setups, spring pressure is where it will fall back to if the failsafe triggers.
Yes tuned for meth, but not had a failsafe wired up since had the system fitted, think most of the cars that had it on here were the same going by the posts.....
The other systems like AEM basically don't have fail safes set as standard, so cant see issue running having DFS linked when don't have a failsafe wired up on car ?
Generally speaking those that purchase a system without a failsafe understand the risk they are taking but have determined that the expense/risk ratio is worth it to them. However, if you have already spent the money on a system with a failsafe, why would you not use it. The hour or so of personal time it takes to set the failsafe is a far cry from the time and expense of replacing an engine.
Generally speaking those that purchase a system without a failsafe understand the risk they are taking but have determined that the expense/risk ratio is worth it to them. However, if you have already spent the money on a system with a failsafe, why would you not use it. The hour or so of personal time it takes to set the failsafe is a far cry from the time and expense of replacing an engine.
09-14-2019, 07:10 PM
