hey all, i recently aquired my r53 mini last month and as luck would have it the clutch is on its way out. hard shifts or full throttle in 6th on the highway will cause some slip. my issue is im on somewhat of a budget and cant really afford to throw $600+ for a clutch job. im a mechanic and will be doing the labor myself but im looking for a clutch that will hold some extra power and not break the bank.

future mods:
16% pulley
intake
exhaust
injectors
cam
tune

any opinions or insight is appreciated, thanks guys and gals!

currently have my eye on this kit

 

The Valeo kit is the best for a budget and more reliable than other aftermarket clutches.

 

Best price I have found to date......

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390551396190

Can you match it?

 

same question from me

 

just got this for $400 shipped:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2006-C...tch/ES2010305/

most shops i spoke to recommended the stock clutch or this.

 

Why don't vendors include a new guide tube with these clutch kits? I've been told by more than one knowledgeable person that the OE guide tube, particularly in early R53s like mine, is crap.

 

I run this clutch and like it very much. Go for it.

 

You definitely should replace the guide tube while you're in there to avoid a premature throw out bearing failure. The Valeo kit is not what I would consider an upgrade per se. It's excellent, and is the best solution to a stuck dual-mass flywheel. If your flywheel is fine, use the stock clutch kit (clutch, pressure plate, t.o. bearing). The clutch kit has a better pedal feel than the Valeo kit IMO.

 

I'm running a LUK clutch kit without any problems. $103 shipped from partsgeek.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...lutch_kit.html

Jason

 

Helix: What do you mean by 'stuck' dual-mass flywheel?

 

He meant "Stock".


Edit: Ok, I guess he did mean "stuck".

 

I'm not sure . . .

 

If you are doing a clutch job and your flywheel is in good condition it is best to leave it on and just get the other part to complete the job (clutch kit) LUK makes the stock clutch for MINI and it's very cheap, it comes with TO bearing, pressure plate, alignment tool VERY important, and the clutch disk.
NO kit comes with the guide tube as far as I know. also change the fork bushings since you are in there and only cost a few bucks, if I have to do this again I would change the fork itself.
IF your flywheel is not good you have a choice of the Valeo kit that includes a single mass flywheel.

On a side note I don't think that any vendor can match EBay prices, I'm sure the will be loosing money, if you want to support our MINI vendors that chime in whenever they can to help I'm sure they that they will match it with other vendors but Ebay in many case does not have the customer service that you will get from our vendors I try to buy from them but I know that sometimes I get better prices elsewhere and just go for it but I'm taking a chance on getting the wrong part and some places won't have even a phone number to call or will not respond emails etc.....

 

Minibx: I completely agree. But back to the subject at hand, do dual-mass flywheels 'fail?' Reason that I ask is that in neutral mine makes a speed-dependent clicking noise that disappears when I depress the clutch.

 

The noise you hear which disappears once you depress the clutch pedal, is likely a clutch release bearing (throwout bearing) going bad.

Regarding your flywheel question: They can begin to separate at the damping mechanism which joins the two assemblies. Will that happen ? I don't know, but it's the most common failure point of a DMFW.

 

A dual-mass flywheel has two parts that move independently from each other, and are connected by a hub and spring system. The design aids in smooth clutch operation--If you are a little ham-fisted in your starts, the car starts smoothly anyway. These flywheels are prone to jam, so that they don't have any give when you release or engage the clutch (search on these forums for 'Chewbacca'). That's what I mean by stuck.

 

Thanks.

 

i picke up my oem clutch kit from minicarparts.net was cheap and came with everything.

my flywheel was good so i didnt want to replace it. mine was also making the chewback noises before but after the install it went away. i also cleaned up the fly wheel with a ton of brake cleaner too so if any dust and crud was in the springs it is gone now.

i also changed the engine main rear seal and input shaft seal on the tranny, and changed the bushings on the shift fork. you can try germanautoparts.com for the bushings an stuff.

for me its one of those things were, well im in here anyway so i might aswell change it. you do not want to have to drop the trans again for some stupid BS, i certainly do not.