Originally Posted by ClintTheMiniOwner
(Post 3660888)
I have my mini apart right now to change pistons and do head touch up. I didnt have to take the engine completely out which was nice but the gaskets all come in a set so you will get all the gaskets anyways. Check out thumper heads and revolution heads. Thumper has a few options to look at. Maybe you can work out a deal on a good core w the vender if yours is cracked... The rocker assembly is touchy on these heads so you want a mini experienced machinist to do it. Trust me I have had my head off 4 times. Also get ARP head bolts in case you have to take it off again! it will pay off since you can use them multiple times.
Also thx i will go with the APR studs since i plan on maybe opening up the head in the future again What should i be llooking for in the rocker assembly ?
Originally Posted by bmwr606
(Post 3661702)
am i missing something here? OP says he found water/antifreeze in the oil ...
i see no mention of at least looking at the rod big end and crank main bearings? and what about checking the piston to cylinder fit, ring fit in the piston lands, the ring end gap, wrist pin to rod and wrist pin to piston? no sense at all putting a new head on a bottom end ready to grenade scott Lastly i do not plan on touching the valve openings/sizes for now just to avoid any further problems ... but maybe in the future ... one never knows |
The only thing you have to worry about with the rocker arms is when you set them back in place. The little plastic retainer rings can get pinched. Have your head guy check to see if the cam rocks back n fourth when its dry and all apart. Or clamp down the cam with the cam bearing caps only without rocker arm shafts and see if the cam gets tight. It needs to spin freely. And get a "newman cam" in there!
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Again its Colin, but anyway.
Sounds like if you had a really high quality head it would be sorted Sad to see mini mania could not cover that. good luck with the rebuild |
2005 R53 badly overheated and now it wont start You have lots of good preventive MX stuff listed, but did you actually fix anything or just take it apart, the reassemble it? I understand you just hoping the bottom end is OK, but if it is all apart, did you check the pistons/rings? block for SQUARE and the head? YOU know it was overheated badly..and would not run...find out WHY it would not run...the head gasket can be CAUSE or EFFECT.... Sounds like you have lots of good parts and a decent plan, hopefully it will be running soon! My gut says if you have a CAM, you will want bigger injectors and a tune when you can scrape up the cash!! |
I found my old shrick cam if youre interested- i wish i could erase. I guess both my cams in my garage are stock. I though one was a shrick. Not sure if they are worth anything. -sorry
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Originally Posted by ClintTheMiniOwner
(Post 3662976)
I found my old shrick cam if youre interested- i wish i could erase. I guess both my cams in my garage are stock. I though one was a shrick. Not sure if they are worth anything. -sorry
Would it be ok to just change the camshaft for now eventhough the car has about 140000km (87.5k miles) ... could putting a new camshaft with old valves and seals cause a problem ???
Originally Posted by ZippyNH
(Post 3662796)
One question....ever find the cause of the water in the oil? Or WHY it would not start/run?
You have lots of good preventive MX stuff listed, but did you actually fix anything or just take it apart, the reassemble it? I understand you just hoping the bottom end is OK, but if it is all apart, did you check the pistons/rings? block for SQUARE and the head? YOU know it was overheated badly..and would not run...find out WHY it would not run...the head gasket can be CAUSE or EFFECT.... Sounds like you have lots of good parts and a decent plan, hopefully it will be running soon! My gut says if you have a CAM, you will want bigger injectors and a tune when you can scrape up the cash!! Now i just need to wait for the parts to arrive ... hope its soon |
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lots of water in cylinders 1 and 2 was found
At least now car is reassembled but when we came to start it up we found a fuel leak Now we just have to find that LEAK |
Fuel Leak, Just check the barb fitting on the fuel rail. I have had them not seat all the way before.
its pretty uncommon to have a bad fuel leak on these cars. |
Originally Posted by ColinGreene
(Post 3681296)
Fuel Leak, Just check the barb fitting on the fuel rail. I have had them not seat all the way before.
its pretty uncommon to have a bad fuel leak on these cars. |
Originally Posted by mgrant
(Post 3681232)
lots of water in cylinders 1 and 2 was found
At least now car is reassembled but when we came to start it up we found a fuel leak Now we just have to find that LEAK |
^that.
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so the fuel leak headed up being a worn out gasket on injector 1. the gasket in question is the one between the fuel rail and the injector ... parts should arrive sometime tmrw morning
Now a quick question regarding injectors. When i took the fuel rail out i had to leave the injectors in the intake manifold since i could not get them out. Unfortunatly when doing so i removed the retaining clips on the injectors. Now when comes time to put everything back together I was wondering where in which groove of the injectors did the clip go into. Is it the one closest to the fuel rail (goes completement around the injector) or is it the lower one (groove on either side) ??? Also are there any tips for installing the fuel rail with the injectors already in the manifold ? Thx in advance |
'Can't help you with your question, but if one gasket is worn out, the others are likely mostly worn as well. I'd replace all four.
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Originally Posted by martinb
(Post 3689036)
'Can't help you with your question, but if one gasket is worn out, the others are likely mostly worn as well. I'd replace all four.
As for my problem i was able to figure it out ... the clips go on the lower groove and can be snap in place when the fuel rail is pushed down hence i dont need to remove the injectors as of yet |
Well after 2 months of not having a car and having to run around to gather parts. Multiple nights of dispair thinking to myself that i would never finish.
THE JOB IS COMPLETED ! Now i cant wait to go for a long drive |
I would replace all 8 0 rings its about 12 dollars, also make sure that your fuel pressure regulator hose is hooked up.
Glad to see that you are up and running. |
Originally Posted by ColinGreene
(Post 3689822)
I would replace all 8 0 rings its about 12 dollars, also make sure that your fuel pressure regulator hose is hooked up.
Glad to see that you are up and running. As mentionned the injectors will be changed this summer so ... |
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