When you had it tuned 8 years ago, was it tuned on stock injectors or JCW? Is the GPR Tensioner already installed on the Sprintex. You're running 550cc injectors now, it the tune scaled for the 550s?

 

I made notes, I make notes about everything done on that car. Ha... I had 550 Bosch injectors and a Crower NS1 cam installed that day (by ABF Tech), Mynes Tune that same day back in December 2010 and at the time I only had a 15% reduced pulley and 2% over crank pulley and K&N intake already on the car. So when it was dyno'd and tuned, it was maxing at 200.2 hp and I remember the guy, the bigger African American guy, saying he couldn't get rid of the ping. So I don't know if he ran it lean or what happened but ever since then its had a ping and throws the lean bank 1 code, it's also intermittent as well, depending on how hard I drive it, it'll pop on P0171 and then when I'm cruising it grandma style it'll go away, I have to do that grandma cruising before smog otherwise I have a code and won't pass.... I actually just ordered the GPR tensioner from you guys Saturday the 10th so I'm hoping that fixes the clacky tensioner problem, super annoying at cold start up and boggy starts in first gear. So I also made a note at checkout to see if you guys could remote tune it to my mods or send me some kind of flash tune for all the upgrades and maybe get it to pump a little more fuel. Thanks for replying to my post! I was also suppose to help you guys make stickers 8 years ago when Byte Tronik was first starting up but thats how long ago it was, I think Byte Tronik was still just in the making

 

Interesting
I haven't been on this site in a long while - The water pump drive in my car broke, death rattle at 56K, then a bit of an overheating problem. I already had a Sprintex as an upgrade ready to install - an upgrade is exactly what it is. No clacking, no issues. I've put almost 10k on the piece. Cosworth head, DRS 264/272, Nvidia exhaust, Forge intercooler, Alta dfi ( actually works much better than the reviews would have you believe ) - tuned with JCW injectors - it runs very well. I would recommend this to any R53 owner
The clacking noise is very strange - there is nothing I can see in the design that would make that noise, the belt slips and catches???? I had 4 911s with chain dampeners similar to the Sprintex. They would go bad and make a racket and then you had to replace a lot of expensive parts if you kept on running the engine. they made stops, solid adjustable tensioners and finally made oil fed tensioners. I'd love to know what causes the clacking - please post!

 

I ended up purchasing the belt tesnsoiner from Byte Tronik so hopefully that will stop the clacking when it's cold. Once its warmed up and the tensioner has started working, it goes away but its super annoying in the morning when you're leaving and that's all you hear... But it sounds like the piston thing they use so I'm gonna go back to the OE style with spring and dampner. Never had issues with it before and that style never gave me problems except for the dampner bushings blow out but that's always an easy fix. Once I get the part I'll let you know if that fixed it. Who knows, may have been a bad piston on tensioner from the start, the belt is in the middle of the tool they give you for the belt tension so it's all within spec. That car is always looking for attention...

 

I'll buy the belt tensioner tool...… Somehow mine has been misplaced. There is a belt that's smaller, not buy much. I don't know how wide it is, I've never seen it - it's on order.

 

Hi guys, my Sprintex is more or less 7 years old in my R53 and I love it, but I dont know if I am crazy or paranoic because I noticed last week it has an strange noise and checked the oil in the Sprintex but almost empty, so I filled it with Redline oil 75w 90 NS and I think the noise almost dissapears afer that but I am not sure, so want to know from another Sprintex owners what do u think, your impressions of my video (see it with hight volume), let me know maybe its normal, hope so.

Thank you so much in advance, waiting all your comments.

 

Can't see the video - the link goes right to Venmo.
What color is the oil? That will tell you ton.

 

Ok sorry the video is now in YouTube

Last week I filled with new oil and this week I will change it again

 

Sounds like teeth missing

 

Hi Akumazeto, a teeth of a wheel (I dont know the name) in the sprintex ?

 

That's drive gears, no question. The Sprintex is much easier to service than the OE Eaton - it's still time consuming. Best of! And take your time.

 

Dear Steve but where I can buy the repair kit or the things that I need to repair it ?

Thank you so much

 

Guys anyone knows or have experience with a rebuild of yours Sprintex with them ??

https://jonbondperformance.com

 

Hi guys,

Dont know what to do?, please help!!!

I need to change or repair my Sprintex asap, I have these options.......

1. buy a new Gen2 unit at Sprintex, maybe only the SC unit not the complete kit, but right now they only have the compressor (I think is the SC unit only) but without the front cover, so I will need to use mine (Gen1)

2.- Send my Sprintex to Jon Bond Performance (anybody know them?) and do a rebuild of the Sprintex , they told me this..... "The rebuilds will leave them functioning slightly better than new, but they will still have the rotor defect. We can't correct that as it is an engineering design issue", the cost is from $1200 to $1800, plus for me the shippings costs, etc. I am in Mexico.

So what could you do if you are in my shoes ?

 

Personally, I'm unaware of a rotor defect, only oil seal issues with the "1st gen" units, this in itself makes me wary of the vendor, esp at that cost.

If Sprintex is telling you that the newer compressor (unit) will work with your kit, with only a front housing swap, that would be my choice.

 

We offer two upgraded parts for the Sprintex:
1. Vented screw for 1st and 2nd gen Sprintex to help alleviate the pressure inside the compressor housing.
2. GPR Performance tensioner (for steady boost pressure at higher RPMs) => GPR Tensioner

 

Hey fellas. I'm at a loss with my sprintex and having a slipping belt. I have a sprintex gen 1 installed by PO - no issues as far as SC goes, runs like a top. It slipped at about 4k rpm when I bought it. I made sure to put on a new belt and a new tensioner piston - upped to ~4,500 rpm before slipping. Then I bought the GPR tensioner and have another brand new belt on and it's STILL slipping between 4,500-5k. Does anybody have ANY advice for this?

 

Some questions:
What size pulley
What size belt
What brand belt
All of this can help to help you.

 

Check your alternator. The rotor assembly, after some time, expands - mine did.. After replacing belts, a couple of idler pullies - I removed the alternator - it was cracked, still worked but more rpm, more slip. The surprise was it still worked.

 

When installing the GPR Tensioner, were you able to add your OEM damper from the M45 belt tensioner?

 

70mm stock pulley
Mechanic is being a **** and can't tell me size of belt. Guess that's the primary culprit.
NAPA belt - presumably Gates?



New damper is installed.

 

Alternator is only ~2 years old. While that could be an issue, it's unlikely given age. Will look into it, thanks for the heads up.

 

Quite possibly, I never could get a Gates to "not" slip.
R&D on the tensioner was done with Dayco belts, and I've always had good luck with Bando as well.
70mm & stock crank pulley should be a 6PK1398 or 6PK1400 with that tensioner.

 

I'm having some problems with the GPR Bytetronik tensioner, wondering if anyone else has similar?

Basically, looking at the holes in the "tab" on the tensioner, my belt tension is perfect... I can see 1 full hole..
But the belt is slack, I can grip it with my fingers and lift it up and down, wobble it etc...it feels completely slack
Also, my supercharger / alternator is covered in black dust, which I believe is belt debris from the slipping belt.

I am running a 60mm pulley, and I'm getting around 14psi, which seems low compared to what others are seeing.
My boost is also completely flat from 3000-7000, with very little fluctuation and no progressive building of boost... it hits 14psi at 3000 and 14psi at 7000rpm.
This also supports the theory that I am getting belt slip.

Using a 1370mm Continental belt.

The other thing which seems odd, is that my spring seems very easy to compress with the tensioner tool...
I've asked a friend to do the same, and he says it takes him 2 hands and all his maximum strength to compress the spring fully - it is very stiff and resistant and difficult....... whereas I can do mine with just my index finger - the spring feels very loose and easy to compress..

The Bytetronik GPR tensioner is around 12 months old, but has only done 3000 miles during this period... so I am really suprised that it seems to have gone faulty?
Thanks

 

The GPR Tensioner is designed to be used with the M45 OEM Damper. If you run the GPR Tensioner without this damper, then it can certainly cause premature wear and tear. What damper is in the GPR Tensioner now?